The DRLs are fine, imho. I have noticed many DJs and the DRLs do their job. Make oncoming DJs more visible without being obnoxious. Making your DRLs brighter is just a way to cause people who don't know you to be annoyed by you.
Hey all. I was wonder if there was a way to make the DRLs brighter? I know the wattage is cut in half but didn't know if there was a resister or something I could remove it bypass... They don't seem bright enough for their purpose.
The tire diameter on the Journey is approximately 36.75" (225mm * 2 + 19") - give or take a few hundredths of an inch. If you have a brand new tire, and one that is worn to 50% of tread depth, the difference in diameter would be roughly .25" (4/32" *2 for total difference). That equates to a total tread length of 115.45" for a new tire, and 114.56" for the 50% worn, for a difference of just under 1".
What does that mean in real terms?
The wheels will spin at different speeds. The new tire will take 548.8 rotations per mile, while the worn tire will take 553.
For a new versus 50% worn tire, it looks like 4 extra rotations per mile for one tire versus the other. AWD must be incredibly sensitive.
For those who would like to see the math:
225 55/r19 tire = 225mm sidewall height or 8.85827"
diameter of tire = 8.85827" *2 + 19" = 36.71654"
assuming new tire with full 10/32" tread diameter from top of tread to top of tread = 36.71654", total tread length = 115.3483" (36.71654 * 3.14159)
50% worn tire is 6/32" (leaving 2/32" as the discard tread depth, leaving 8/32" of usable tread). tire diameter is 36.46654" total tread length at 50% wear is 114.56"
Edited to check my own math.
My radio is lazy, and unresponsive. Volume isn't working, and XM is not working. Will attempt a 'disconnect the negative terminal' trick, per forum discussions. feeling optimistic; will update.
As a follow-up to my previous repair tutorial entitled "Cruise Control, LOVE TAP FIX", and my experience as a Alternative Mechanical Repairman (ei, advocate of using the Love-Tap to fix everything from HVAC to Gauge Clusters) I recently noticed my Uconnect 4.3 (2011 DJ) was slowing down, crashing on boot up, and XM/Volume was unresponsive.
After boastfully explaining to my wife that 'I knew FCA products, and that a well placed 'LOVE TAP' would fix this touch screen...' I proceeded to give the side of the console a 'THUD' (Just south of the ignition) AND I SHIT YOU NOT THE RADIO FUNCTIONS ALL RETURNED TO NORMAL! ALL WORKING- XM, FM and the VOLUME!... we couldn't stop laughing!!!!.... for about 5 minutes... then it froze again. Oh-well.
So today, I check the forums. some folks say to leave the battery disconnected for 30 minutes. Seems legit. I'll do this tonight- and report my findings. I have no doubt this will solve my issue.
PSA: I work at GM now... So I get to deal with my coworkers bugging me to switch my ride daily. To them I say "ONCE FCA, HERE TO STAY!" .... Also, it's not in my budget for a new car.
actually yrs ago with my caravan i had a episode with a cruise control not disengaging after stepping on the brake pedal was kind of scary as of course i was coming up behind another car but mine disengaged by simply shutting off the unit whit the cancel button. I had just that day picked the van up from the dealership where they had worked on the transmission and after looking at the van they latter called and said the van is fixed that it was the brake pedal switch that had gone bad, i kept asking about it as i had just picked it up from the dealership and that it was working before they had it and it wasn't after they gave it back to me ,they kept saying they didnt do anything to have damaged the brake switch disconnect but i had a hard time coming around to their way of thinking. But is was a scary thing to happen and was lucky to have been able to just hit the cancel button.......