you would be more wise to purchase a extended warranty for your crossroad as transmission and the electronics are very expensive for new cars today , check out the forum on them and the sooner you buy it the cheaper it is. all cars are being built a lot better than they were yrs ago but being in AL i dont worry about salt and chemical that they use on the roads but you might want to add the rustproofing as well, good luck on what ever you decide....
I'm having a hard time finding information on where the Journey uses galvanized steel (if at all), I tried asking the dealer but they are useless. I'm wondering mostly because I plan on keeping the Journey for a LOOOOONG time, and I passed on the dealerships underbody spray (it was a ripoff at 899.00). I do want to get the underbody sprayed, but where they use galvanized steel would let me know if I should do it sooner or later. Thanks!
Yeah, sorry, my sarcasm was hidden with the use of the term "muppets!".... Pardon my British!
Indeed, there is absolutely no way that is the problem, otherwise I would notice the red LED on the back of the power supply staying on. Besides, the draw of a dashcam/phone charger is not enough to drain a fully charged battery in 24hrs. Also what about the low-power battery protection that should kick in?
My gut feeling is the Body Control Module, or maybe the Amp for the premium audio... If I could find the TSB for the BCM, I could probably get them to just re-flash it without having to sit on the car for 2 days and not find anything.
doubt that is the problem as my gamin when it is plug into the outlet in the front dash catch all cubbyhole (what ever you want to call that spot) always goes dead when i turn the ign off there shouldn't be no power to that outlet ,unless you changed the wiring there. actual just went out and checked it and yes no power to that plug unless the ign is on. the dealer should know this......
The dealer just called in response to a message we left over the weekend. They think it could be due to the dashcam I have installed. The one that is plugged into the switched accessory plug on the front dash. Muppets.
Anyhoo, they suggested we leave it with them for a day or two to diagnose... But due to our road-trip that's not gonna happen for a few weeks now.
Oh well, wish us luck!
The Crossroad front bumper is not the same as other Journey bumpers and I think the issue is only on the crossroad. Sounds like you have the same issue I had. If you can lift your bumper about 1/4" to 1/2" and if there seems to be about 3/8" gap under the headlights, you probably do.
Removing the grill starts out easy but getting the lower portion of it to pop out of the bumper can be tricky. You need to lift up on the lower grill tabs for them to release/pop out from the bumper
With the grill removed, if you lift your bumper, can you feel space between the bumper and the frame which it rests on? The backside of the bumper has 4 determined points where the bumper rests on the frame. It may have more but you can't access them this way. Those points are where I placed mending plates. Use a jack to lift your bumper to the point which you lessen the gap to the headlights. My gaps are about 3/16" ? Do this to determine how thick your shims need to be. I used 1/16" paper drywall shims to create the thickness needed for no play between bumper and frame. That is how I know how thick a mending plate I needed. I combined enough mending plates to equal the shim thickness. It ended up that two mending plates were about 1/4" and two were about 3/8".
The plates screwed into the top of that frame and slid under the bumper at those support points on the backside of the bumper. Don't bring the mending plate as forward into the bumper as possible. Push them as far forward and then back them off enough so that if you push them bumper in with your knee, the bumper doesn't hit the plate. I think my mending plates were about 4" long.
There won't be a crack on the bumper. Where the bumper meets the front body panel will begin to have a gap. There is a plastic support that joins them. That part is what will crack. Yours may have and you will know by looking at the tightness of the panel to bumper. If it begins to gap near the headlight, it's cracked. It costs $19 but with the fix above, you may not need to replace it.
The first photo shows the crack at the top edge. The third shows looking down from the hood latch, My shims are specific to my work, 2 white and 2 black. You can see one black to the left. They are screwed to the black frame.
Let me know if you have other questions.
I am having the same problem with my 2014 Journey. As many times as I push the on/off button the cruise will not come on. Checked everywhere for a blown fuse to no avail. I am now going to follow up with the dealer and will post back once they have looked at it. I hope it is covered under the extended warranty.
You want the REB radio module - there are a whole series of radio modules out there - Dodge Chargers, Chrysler 300s and other Journeys can be donors (not Dodge Darts). But you'll either have to change the antenna and add the cable that goes to it as well or connect a separate satellite antenna that you can stick on the windshield, perhaps behind the mirror.
Ebay pricing for the module should be in the $100 range.