Forums

I know this is in the Owners impressions forum...BUT   It is coming time to close the book on old red (2011 mainstreet). The last posting I made somewhere in one of my many postings of his "disposition" was to give him up to scrap, due to lack of time to find/fix coolant leak and overall body condition. THE GOOD NEWS The coolant loss was a ruptured oil filter /cooler assembly, which I did replace with an aluminium unit along with the aluminum T-stat and a new fan resistor. The engine is FINE with no damage from the limp home with it when it blew. Seeing as I had gone that far with it, I then looked over the damage from the initial problem of my son glancing a deer that tore the bumper cover off and broke some plastic wheel arch panels and side cover attachment brackets. I was able to acquire all needed pieces from my friend AND reuse the bumper cover. SO the car is all back together !!!   THE SAD NEWS This car was our first DJ, and was a REAL LEARNING EXPERIENCE with all the troubles we overcame with it and had proven to be a reliable ride for my son.  BUT now We are putting it up for sale at an almost "give away" price considering the cost of parts to fix the cooling system(which I did all the labor). It will need new pads and rotors all around due to sitting parked for almost 8 months and the WET year we had this year. I have one family coming Sat. to look at the car for their son as a first car for him( yes he is going to be here also). I hope it goes well!

Vacuum booster is electric, if brakes lose boost it can feel like no brakes... when manual only. Might be codes stored from the stauling incident. Ask to retrieve codes on vehicle. Could be defective vacuum boost pump.   But 5rebel9 point about the mechanically operated emergency brake might come into play. In a split second you would be expected to use it correctly. Even experienced drivers would have an issue with that. Tough situation.

Unless it was never used and didn't work.....Happens

Years ago people called that funky pedal by the drivers kick panel the EMERGENCY BRAKE. Sadly it became known as the PARKING BRAKE, so people forgot how and what use this pedal is for. EXACTLY the kind of thing your daughter encountered!  

Epic

Another one post wonder.....

unless the journey was in neutral, that would be the only way it could roll ,,if in rev and the engine off I would assume it wouldn't roll as well never heard of any problems with the brakes and the electrical shutting off

If someone rolled into you would you want their info?

well it was her fault or the journeys fault that she owns for rolling or backing into their new cars,of course they would want your ins info......

Ok, I am going to provide my experience for everyone in the hopes it helps because between my dealer in Ontario, and FCA Canada / Stellantis. Customer service was useless and I waisted money I should not have had to spend.    Same issue as most of you. Key Not Detected. I find out from my dealer that it only works with the fob in the cup holder.... as he stated directly "your LF antennas should read the FOB from 6ft away, they are only reading it from 6 inches or less away."  Fixes tried at that point: changed the push button start module - no change swapped around several LF antennas from the doors, under the console - no change replaced the RFHub that's under the headliner at the rear of the Journey - no change and old RFHub was producing no error codes. Electrical mechanic told me request a refund. (Here's where FCA Stellantis FAILED and refuse to help) Had them reprogram a new fob USING one of my old fobs - worked for a week, then new fob also behaved like the others - Remember this part for how I fixed it Flash forward 6 months to a very heavy snow fall. I loose my keys in the snowbank. Called a locksmith who was forced to program a new fob WITHOUT having any of my fobs available. He had to use my VIN and the computer to do it. Sure enough, new fob works perfectly, 6ft or more away and has been working for almost 2 years without issue while my factory fobs still won't work unless within 6 inches. One of my factory fobs actually has fully died since.    So my TDLR opinion: Having a fob reprogrammed using a current fob seems to copy over any issues that the current fobs are having (frequency issues or other technical issues)  BUT programming a new fob and saying you don't have the old fobs to do it with so they are forced to do it through the VIN using the original software information seems to have worked.    FCA won't admit there is a problem with this fob model, but users in Chargers, Rams and Caravans using the same fob model have also reported similar problems.