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Once again the case of fixing the symptom and not fixing the cause.  I had a '14 3.6 gas DJ that the torque converter went bad and had to be replaced. Within 6 months I had scraping noises and some power loss in gear issues. Had the trans taken back out and found cracked flex plate.  Long story short the cause was a bad replacement torque converter, So a new torque converter AGAIN and new flex plate......NO PROBLEM at all after that.   You post of continued FLEX PLATE replacement, has your mechanic ever checked the TORQUE CONVERTER?

Obviously there is something else going on. Who's been working on it? I have never heard of a flex plate breaking on these cars, much less 4 of them in that short of a time frame. Perhaps an alignment issue between engine/trans? 

2018 Journey 2ltr Diesel,  first flex plate had to be replaced at 25k miles 2nd plate lasted only 18k miles later 3rd plate has lasted 2years and another30k miles, now waiting on mechanic to replace AGAIN  I really like the journey and would prefer to have a fix for the problem and not have to get rid of the vehicle,  the parts are always genuine parts that have been used. Can anyone help me with my predicament ?    

I especially don't like the idea of running longer than you have to at a high psi with the plastic housing heat exchanger. I'm on my second one, no Dorman alumium option when first failed. It was in the middle of nasty January cold snap at around 102k miles 5yrs old. Filter cap always tightened with inch pound torque wrench, and always 5w20 synthetic oil. No crack found, base oring seals failure I think. Complete new oem...it was January. 

The problem I see is that oil pressure stays high until the engine reaches at least 180 Deg. On cold start I see max pressure driving away of 77 to 85 psi  dropping to about 35 psi stopped at idle. When the engine is properly warmed up to operating temperature idle psi is 20 to 24 and easy acceleration from a stop and running at 55 mph get to 40 to 50 psi. In the past I had a failed coolant  temperature sensor on the oil cooler so the temperature never increased and oil pressure continually ran at 77 to 85 psi until I had the oil cooler replaced (with all sensors pre-installed in the new unit). The service advisor at the previous oil change indicated that the filter/cooler housing is leaking. But I delayed until the oil pressure sensor failed (also on the filter/cooler housing P0520) and had to be addressed. The oil filter housing/oil-cooler was changed and new spark plugs installed at the same time at 114,750 miles December 2019.   I understand that engines are designed to run at an operating temperature of 212 to 220 deg F. Constantly running cold drops the gas mileage you could have got running at the designed temperature. 

What I meant was that I don't worry about it running at 160 seems to make no difference to the engine and it has 225000 miles on it Better than overheating

Had to make a 50 mile one way run to get fuel oil (diesel) for our furnace yesterday driving thru the lake effect snows all the way.  I've had 236 lbs. of weight in the middle floor  and yes, 40 -45 mph was the safest speeds to handle. It still would have minor rear end "twitch" on curves but very manageable. On the trip back home on the same route, I had a total of 670 lbs. of weight from the fuel. WOW talk about having a FIRMLY PLANTED feel to the road and even on curves! All the weight was carried on middle floor and seat area, and there was only room for front passenger if needed(I was alone). Visibility was better on the ride back home and was able to comfortably follow all posted speed limits with ease(55,40, 30 mph zones), and NO the suspension was NOT "bottomed out" from the weight!   Now, if "Mother Nature" would just crank the thermostat up some for warmer outside temps, it would be MUCH APPRECIATED! 

I have found NO DIFFERENCE in being able to seperate the hose, but I prefer using a screw hose clamp instead of the spring clamp as done O.E.. I find that "working room" to be more easy than trying to get pliers onto that area.

I don't know what to say to that. How can resetting the code fix the problem making it run cool? 

Thanks for the answer.  I've considered the aluminum housing type available from NAPA (I like the NAPA AAA member discount), but am hesitant wondering if the radiator hose will adhere more tightly to the aluminum then the plastic of the OE housing.  What has been your experience?  Since I have not changed the thermostat in the last 12 years, at age 77 worrying about disconnecting a stuck hose from an aluminum housing  is likely not an issue.