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  • Popular Contributors

  • Posts

    • OK first off I have repaired rear defrosters in the past and I cant find an explination on anything here or anywhere for my issue and heres what Ive found   First off only had my 2011 Journey RT AWD for about 8 months and I live in the very cold part of Canada in the winter. So i never had time to figure this out.   I hit the rear defroster switch light comes on .. stays on for about 5-10 min then turns off as it should bit wont defog the rear window. Pulled the panel off no voltage at the contact... hit the switch now I have 12volts... then check the other side also with 12 volts... hit the switch goes back to 0 volts. Across the entire grid 12 volts from left to right no change 12 volts across but comfirming with a thermal temp gun temp never changed on the grid or anywhere the rear defroster is on the window stays a constant temp.    So I confirmed switch works as it should and voltage across the back window from left to right.. with a test light and multi meter... even used the multi meter from side to side of one of the lines it produces 1 ohm of resistance which I figure is too low.   My wife has a 2012 caravan basically same car and parts... and her defroster works.. it has increased resistance but at 6 volts    so why would I have 12 volts across and no heat generated.    Does the journey have a relay somewhere for this.. I cant hear a click anywhere when i turn the switch on.   Please help as winter is comming and any help is appreciated 
    • OK first off I have repaired rear defrosters in the past and I cant find an explination on anything here or anywhere for my issue and heres what Ive found   First off only had my 2011 Journey RT AWD for about 8 months and I live in the very cold part of Canada in the winter. So i never had time to figure this out.   I hit the rear defroster switch light comes on .. stays on for about 5-10 min then turns off as it should bit wont defog the rear window. Pulled the panel off no voltage at the contact... hit the switch now I have 12volts... then check the other side also with 12 volts... hit the switch goes back to 0 volts. Across the entire grid 12 volts from left to right no change 12 volts across but comfirming with a thermal temp gun temp never changed on the grid or anywhere the rear defroster is on the window stays a constant temp.    So I confirmed switch works as it should and voltage across the back window from left to right.. with a test light and multi meter... even used the multi meter from side to side of one of the lines it produces 1 ohm of resistance which I figure is too low.   My wife has a 2012 caravan basically same car and parts... and her defroster works.. it has increased resistance but at 6 volts    so why would I have 12 volts across and no heat generated.    Does the journey have a relay somewhere for this.. I cant hear a click anywhere when i turn the switch on.   Please help as winter is comming and any help is appreciated 
    • i was trying to remember what the power train warranty was back in 2011 wasn't it 7 yrs 100 k ? 
    • Had this issue on my 2014 Dodge Journey. The screen turned black, and then the next time it turned on, no detailed maps... I asked the dealer about it and the guy had heard about it and said the only fix was to replace the stereo. That didn't sound right. It took a lot of searching to find all files, but finally found them all (and upgraded to the 2018 maps). I couldn't do the one step update (got half way then failed, but the multiple step worked). I left the 5 files in the main folder and the SQLite folder (unsure if that helps, or if I have anything extra, but it all worked). Here were my steps (PM me if you need an help with files):     DOWNGRADE TO CTP13   Downgrade radio navigation to CTP13! This is very important as newer versions have securIty that prevents loading of maps without dealer codes. Take a second USB drive with the gupdate.gcd from CTP13. Turn on the car and hold temp up + temp down + front defrost, after a few seconds dealer mode will pop up. Select garmin recovery update and plug in the usb drive with CTP13 on it. NOTE: After you flash this it takes a long time to load. Let it load and it will still say cannot unlock maps. Just click ok, you may need to restart your car one time to click out of the pop up.    —   RESTORE MAPS (LONGER VERSION, SHORT VERSION DIDN’T WORK)   Step 1: 1) On the USB stick, create another folder in the root named "Disabled".
      2) Move the Garmin subfolders (ASR, JCV, & SID) into the "Disabled" folder. Keep the five files (gmapprom.img, gmap3d.img, gmaptz.img, gmapbmap.img and gmapdem.img) and the SQLite folder in the Garmin folder.
      3) Plug the USB stick into the car and perform the update. It will take about one hour. You don’t have to keep the vehicle running but rather in the ON position. The vehicle will turn off after 30 minutes, so do a cycle before that time (don’t start the vehicle as it will turn the system on and off again).   Step 2: 1) On the USB stick, move gmap3d.img, gmaptz.img, gmapbmap.img and gmapdem.img from the Garmin folder into the Disabled folder. Leave only gmapprom.img in the Garmin folder.
      2) Move the JCV folder from the Disabled folder into the Garmin folder (SQLite Folder stays).
      3) Plug the USB stick into the car and perform the update again. When this is done, the Junction View is now installed, and the 3D landmarks and time zones are still there.   Step 3: 1) On the USB stick, move the ASR and SID folders from the Disabled folder into the Garmin folder. Leave gmapprom.img and the JCV and SQLite folders.
      2) Plug the USB stick into the car and perform the update once again. After this is completed, the system is fully updated to the new maps and all features work except for the phone number lookup.   ___   UPGRADE RADIO    Using the latest files from https://www.driveuconnect.com/support/software-update.html upgrade the radio and GPS software. In September 2018, these files were: CTPMY14.KWI (Radio to 7.09) and gupdate.gcd (CTP17). The first is the only file in the root directory of the flash drive. The second is the only file in the Garmin folder (no other folders or files on the drive). Do one and then the other.  
    • Yes.  Its good that I purchased the max care lifetime warranty.  If I hadn't, it would be a huge bill and the train ticket would be adding insult to injury.  I'm happy with the warranty covering the repair.  The other thing that I found interesting in my case, was the complete lack of any symptoms.  The transmission shifted perfectly up until and even after the check engine light appeared.  No shudders, no loss of engine power to the wheels, nothing that I could detect.  I'm hoping that this is a case of some sensor doing its job, and I get a good ending.  This is not done yet.  The dealership in CA still has my DJ.  I've had no followup from them.  For anyone who has had a big repair at a dealership, you know that snags can occur.  This isn't over for me yet.  There's also the question of how it runs after the initial install and testing.  I'm hoping this new transmission runs for a good long time and does not give me problems in 6 months or something.  Anyway, it will be what it will be. . .      I will keep the forum updated on how this goes.  I'm hoping for long term success.     Peace. 
    • So in the big picture of things, this was a good ending type of situation minus the bus fare. I would guess the roof cargo had nothing to do with it, just something that needed to be done for the transmission. 
    • Ok, I guess I will learn to live with it. Thanks for the info.
    • Yes. It’s normal. There was a thread in here awhile back discussing this. Our 2013 is the same way. Held in place by reverse gravity or something like that. It will outlast the vehicle unless you start pulling and tugging on it to find out the breaking point. 
    • He didn’t like finding out he lost his HVAC controls. Lol
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