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The 2012 model forward, it's been done lots of times with just lights on dash. 3.5 model I'm not sure, but probably. Even in older awd jeeps (I had two) you can drop driveshaft and run in two wheel. The transfer case can just keep spinning with no load. Need to keep oil topped up to keep noise level low.   A good transmission shop can answer that question easily. Shaft drops in about 15 ish minutes. Awd is great in mud and snow but sometimes it takes vehicles of the road sooner. With awd disabled, the traction control and abs will be off line. So not as safe to drive, but ok as an emergency measure. Just don't ask a dealership to do it. The money lights have a purpose.

Are you sure I could drop the drive line and run it in two wheel drive? It looks like it’s connected directly to the transmission so gears are gonna turn in there and there’s not gonna be any fluid but I guess I don’t really care about that cause I’m replacing it right? But are you sure it won’t affect the transmission cause I would totally do that. I did drop that front plate you’re referring to and then my concern was that I only have two motor mounts holding the engine in there and I don’t know if that weight sagging like that is creating some pressure on the driveshaft because getting the driveshaft off has been proved not easy like it’s still up there because I thought for sure it would just drop, but it didn’t so it’s it’s obviously being held by some kind of pressure. It might be normal pressure or pressure I’ve created I’m not sure I do have the car up pretty high. I mean all the wheels are off the ground. And I know it wasn’t you. I  believe it was another person said that there were repair manuals. People have attached on here if there’s any info on what the heading titles might be or how to find them. I would appreciate it.

Thanks!!! It actually fixed itself anyway... I turned the radio off and on a few times... and magically, it started working!!!

Make sure it's well supported and as high in the air as possible. Truck stands and chunks of solid wood on ground if needed; concrete blocks get risky.   You have the loose donor unit; probably 75 ish pounds. It won't just drop on you; but the drive line will start to sag if not supported a bit. Some people drop the front sub frame; but on a rusty northern car can create more problems to deal with.   Holding the body up really well is important. Truck stands have the height and weight capacity.  Get a torch if possible for the exhaust bolts; anything cherry red comes loose without breaking or wrecking threads; new flange gaskets needed for reassembly later.   You could probably drop drive shaft and use car in two wheel mode until you get ready for the big job. Good luck; big learning experience.

Welcome to the forum to you way down in South America area!     IF this radio is the original to your car, the radio serial# and your cars' VIN # and proof of ownership info taken to a DODGE DEALERSHIP Parts Dept/or ServiceDept. can look that security code up for you. Unfortunately being now16 years old and the car being out of production for 6 years MAY present some info problems even at a dealership. GOOD LUCK!

Welcome to the forum!   There are NO print shop manuals for the car, they are all "online" or "online subscription". BUT previous members HAVE POSTED complete manuals here on the forum if you look at the proper forum heading. That said, to replace the PTU is the SAME STEPS as to removing the transmission(a pretty big job). you may be able to find some youtube videos on that to help you along. GOOD LUCK!

All right so I have kind of the same issue as the Previous gentleman sort of I have a 2010 Dodge journey SXT all wheel drive something shot out of the peep of the transfer unit or or shot into it. I’m guessing shot out of it because I had to remove a lot of stuff that was in the way they would’ve sort of protected a incoming projectile anyway I bought a PTU that says it’s OEM off Amazon brand-new for 400 bucks. I get that you get what you pay for and I know exactly what a new one would cost from Dodge and there’s a huge difference there I get it. I’m going to try it anyway for one, I’ve had this unit sitting here for two months, cause I just haven’t had the time to install it but what I need is the right steps to remove the stuff that’s in the way and because I think I’ve made a mistake already in the only thing holding my engine up right now are the two motor mounts that are on the side because I removed the bottom plate and in the one in the middle it looks like I have to remove my entire exhaust at least from the manifold and this car is from South Dakota so the entire undercarriage is rusted it’s a nightmare but I just wanna make sure that I am doing the right steps because I believe I am probably creating unnecessary pressure on something maybe the driveshaft or cause some things are just very difficult to get off and I mean more difficult than normal like like so I don’t I just want to know that I am taking it off properly to put the new one back in Wright with a Shelton or a Haynes tell me all this cause I will just go buy one of those if it will? And I talk to Text # so excuse me if my grammar or there’s something wrong in the spelling or something just doesn’t read right because I rarely proofread and I just send it sorry. 

Hello everyone, I recently updated the firmware on the factory infotainment system of my 2010 Dodge Journey SXT 2.4. The radio unit is a Rest of World (ROW) MyGIG RB2 model. After completing the software update, the system rebooted and is now asking for a 4-digit anti-theft security code. Unfortunately, the previous owner didn't write it down in the user manuals, and I don't have the original radio card. Could someone with access to the database please help me generate the PIN code? Here is the official system information: Radio Model: MyGIG RB2 Serial Number: T00AM2160E3065 Application Version: 08.03.02 (Before update) now 10.00.11 I would really appreciate any help to get my radio working again. Thank you so much in advance!

The same. 3.6 engine starter red cable goes to the under hood fuse box battery terminal stud.   The dirty orange wire is the fusible link for the alternator on the cable that goes to it.  

Does anybody have photos of the heater core hoses at the end that connects back into the cooling system? I see the hoses on the firewall. Not easy to get at.