If all 4 tires are now new and the same size, perhaps disconnecting the battery for a bit will reset everything. Otherwise, it takes a special scan tool to read the codes causing those lights which means a dealer trip unless you know someone who has such a tool. Good luck and be sure to post back what you find.
There is a reason the hoses are flexible in the first place. If you put in a solid pipe, I think you'd discover failure far faster than in the cold conditions they keep blowing up in.
Only two payments left on my Journey now ... it'd be great if it manages to not blow another line before that happens. LOL Luckily it doesn't seem to mind +30 and higher nearly as much as -30 and lower.
Sorry dont know what to tell you....
It takes money to own and operate a vehicle and they are a very complex and need diagnosis from people who know what they are doing.
Maybe someone on here knows more...good luck
WHy not replace the return hose with a copper pipe? Whatever the diameter is there should be something that can be made up. We replace steel pipes with copper in the U.K. A lot because the weathers sh**e and the authorities pour salt all over the road when it snows which rots everything fast.
Was interesting reading through this. Near the start I was about to respond with I hope you've done the fluid and filters before taking anything apart on an automatic as fluid and filters often solves most problems. Basically when the filters blocked not enough fluid can get through to push the valves to engage the gears. Glad your sorted though :D
Hi jmz1, the fault code you mention relates to the brake light switch on the brake pedal. The switch usually has two circuits, one powers the brake lights and the other deactivates the cruise control if you hit the brake. It's common for half of the switch to break, I.e the brake lights still work but cruise function doesn't or vide versa. I would be changing that switch first as they are about £10.
cruise control probably won't function if that broken.
The short answer to the original post is YES. The cooling system only has a boiling point over 100oc if the system is pressurised. When the resovoir tank splits or the cap seal goes the system fails to pressurise and will boil over quickly ejecting its coolant out the leak/hole point. I'm a motor engineer you can trust me on this one. Also even a partially blocked rad or stuck thermostat will cause this but they are easy to check/detect.