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This is a service question: Can you remove  the oil filter cap and reinstall it bare handed? My CDJR  dealer is performing 2 for $145 oil and filter changes (up from last year's two  for $130).  I have a 2013 Journey crew with 3.6 engine. I left my Red tiger FN7 dash cam  connected to the always on 12V supply in the center console so it kept recording until I switched it back to the normal 12V that is only on with the engine running. The cam recorded the tech pulling into the bay at 14:10. He popped the hood 14:15  and lifted the vehicle 14:23to drain the oil.  He has not touched the engine cover or the  round oil filter housing cap access cover. He lowered the Journey to begin the  tire rotation  14:48  but the rear lug nuts are too tight (over torqued on the previous oil change/tire rotation).  The technician enlisted the aid of two other tech's and they fought the rear lug nuts until about 15:20. At 15:35 the service manager came to the customer lounge to tell me the sad news and said they can't loosen the rear tires lug nuts and  don't have enough parts on hand to replace the lugs and lug nuts that will likely have to be drilled and can I leave it over night? We agreed to finish the oil change today and reschedule the tire rotation.  The dash camera showed the tech removing the round access cover at 15:28 then inserting  the oil  dispenser hose at 15:35. The last action recorded was the tech  using a shop towel to wipe in the engine cover and around the access port then installing the oil filter housing cap access cover at 15:38  then lower the hood at 15:39. My question: can you remove the oil filter cap without a tool (bare hand only) and replace the filter cartridge and cap in less than a minuet without using a wrench"

Look at brand of filter on vehicle. Is it the same one that shop uses?   An air powered  impact gun removes over torqued lug nuts 95% of the time.  They might be using an electric one. Mini lube tecs aren't real mechanics.   Go to a dedicated tire shop, they can probably use johnson bar or big air impact. If a stud breaks they can change it. Not as expensive as real mechanics, your last resort if tire guys can't do it.

This is a service question My CDJR  dealer is performing 2 for $145 oil and filter changes (up from last year's two  for $130) I have a 2013 Journey crew with 3,6 engine. I left my Red tiger FN7 dash cam  connected to the always on 12V supply in the center console so it kept recording until I switched it back to the normal 12V thats only on with the engine running. The cam recorded the tech pulling into the bay at 14:16. He popped the hood and lifted the vehicle to drain the oil. He lowered the Journey to rotate the tires but the rear lug nuts are too tight (over torqued on the previous oil change/tire rotation). After the service manager came to the customer lounge to tell me the sad news and said they dont have enough parts on hand to replace the lugs and lug nuts that will likely have to be drilled and can I leave it over night? We agreed to finish the oil change today and reschedule the tire rotation. 

Cps crank position sensor worth $25ish dollars (use mopar or NTK brand) is a wear item that strands with no start issue; due now if still original. Heat vibration get to it, easy install item.   ETB electronic throttle body if original also good idea. Hitachi makes oem, Rockauto carries it. Minimal labour.   Tranny pan drop with new filter and fluid is good idea; atf+4 is semi synthetic and not expensive. Due now.   Coils can last life of car, change if cyclinder misfire and codes. Surpentine belts are urethane now, I wait for squealing at start up or signs of cracking. Some people go to platinum plugs, the correct hotter plug is copper and has very short change interval. Easy to get at, so copper is fine.

check your manual for the correct service sch, 

Our son-in-law’s 2016 Dodge Journey SXT has a 2.4 L L4 engine and has about 100,000 miles on the car.   I think I should change spark plugs, plug coils, serpentine belt, belt pulleys and PCV valve.  Also may need a coolant change.   Does anybody have any suggestions for the best aftermarket brands of parts in any missing service services?  He just had to replace the alternator.   Let me know and thanks!

first I have heard anyone talk about this problem ,,,actually had to go look at mine..looks like removing your coolant tank would be the best way to get access to the prop rod plastic grommet don't see what clips you are talking about,,,oh well maybe someone will have some ideas on what you need 

So I have 2 questions. The round prop rod grommet broke and I eventually bought a new one. Problem is the new one doesn't go on so easy! The bends in the rod at both ends keep the new grommet from sliding on. Also, It was some time ago but now I can't remember where the round grommet goes (clips) into frame. The clip to secure the rod is fine. It's just the round grommet. Thanks for any direction. 😁

The 2012 model forward, it's been done lots of times with just lights on dash. 3.5 model I'm not sure, but probably. Even in older awd jeeps (I had two) you can drop driveshaft and run in two wheel. The transfer case can just keep spinning with no load. Need to keep oil topped up to keep noise level low.   A good transmission shop can answer that question easily. Shaft drops in about 15 ish minutes. Awd is great in mud and snow but sometimes it takes vehicles of the road sooner. With awd disabled, the traction control and abs will be off line. So not as safe to drive, but ok as an emergency measure. Just don't ask a dealership to do it. The money lights have a purpose.

Are you sure I could drop the drive line and run it in two wheel drive? It looks like it’s connected directly to the transmission so gears are gonna turn in there and there’s not gonna be any fluid but I guess I don’t really care about that cause I’m replacing it right? But are you sure it won’t affect the transmission cause I would totally do that. I did drop that front plate you’re referring to and then my concern was that I only have two motor mounts holding the engine in there and I don’t know if that weight sagging like that is creating some pressure on the driveshaft because getting the driveshaft off has been proved not easy like it’s still up there because I thought for sure it would just drop, but it didn’t so it’s it’s obviously being held by some kind of pressure. It might be normal pressure or pressure I’ve created I’m not sure I do have the car up pretty high. I mean all the wheels are off the ground. And I know it wasn’t you. I  believe it was another person said that there were repair manuals. People have attached on here if there’s any info on what the heading titles might be or how to find them. I would appreciate it.