leaning Posted March 17 Report Share Posted March 17 Door switch locks and unlocks and the door lock rods go up and down as it should Use the fob, the unlock makes the door lock rods twitch but not go up. You have to use the key from the fob, unlock the door manually, the alarm goes off, and then you put the fob in the ignition to silence the alarm. When unlocked, if I move away from the car or breathe wrong, the car locks itself. I would just be happy with a motor on a chassis with a seat and wheels and a steering wheel. I pulled most of the fuses of stuff I don't need, and want to just bare bones this. Is there a fuse which controls the relationship between the fob and the door locks? I apreciate your help and info! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leaning Posted March 17 Author Report Share Posted March 17 Update: I tried the spare fob and using it to unlock and lock, the lock rods on the car moved and down. My fob battery was 2.87 volts, the spare was 3.2. So, the stuff I was seeing was just the car doing a "Fob Battery Low" alert. Still curious if there is a fuse that removed the fob/door interaction so I can just unlock and lock the driver's door with the key, but still use the fob for ignition. Cars... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dean H Posted March 17 Report Share Posted March 17 I hereby nominate you for poster of the year! Thank you for the update and good information. D larryl 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leaning Posted March 18 Author Report Share Posted March 18 Well, new battery in the fob was something, but the problem continues. Car locks itself when the key gets close, then keeps trying to lock itself even though it is already locked. And the horn chirps every time. if anybody has an idea about this, thank you! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5rebel9 Posted March 18 Report Share Posted March 18 (edited) 9 hours ago, leaning said: Well, new battery in the fob was something, but the problem continues. Car locks itself when the key gets close, then keeps trying to lock itself even though it is already locked. And the horn chirps every time. if anybody has an idea about this, thank you! Doing it again with WHICH key fob? The main or the spare? Your main key fob may have a bad circuit board and that key fob MAY need to be replaced. Try keeping it away from the car and see if the same happens with the same or not. After all the fob portions are 15 years old now. You have a first gen Journey, there MAY be a fuse for door locks, but with the wiring layout of computerized cars the alarm and such can not be disabled, so your wish to eliminate that is just that A WISH. Edited March 18 by 5rebel9 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5rebel9 Posted March 18 Report Share Posted March 18 26 minutes ago, 5rebel9 said: Doing it again with WHICH key fob? The main or the spare? Your main key fob may have a bad circuit board and that key fob MAY need to be replaced. Try keeping it away from the car and see if the same happens with the same or not. After all the fob portions are 15 years old now. You have a first gen Journey, there MAY be a fuse for door locks, but with the wiring layout of computerized cars the alarm and such can not be disabled, so your wish to eliminate that is just that A WISH. EARLY morning typing miscues'''' Should have been typed to read try using your spare key fob and see if all works correctly or not. IF it works correctly, then the circuit board in your primary use key fob is bad and that key fob will need to be replaced. leaning and 2late4u 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dean H Posted March 18 Report Share Posted March 18 (edited) The 09-10 DJ have problems with the under hood power box (tipm). If your tipm is the original. I would look into this. Search YouTube on 2009-10 DJ tipm trouble. Email him good guy. https://verticalvisions.com/en/26-tipm-repairs Dean Edited March 18 by Dean H 5rebel9 and larryl 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5rebel9 Posted March 18 Report Share Posted March 18 YES, the TIPM/FUSE PANEL unit MAY be the problem, but I'm still trying to figure out if it is just the main key fob he uses or both. IF just the one, it would be a bad fob circuit board. larryl 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dean H Posted March 19 Report Share Posted March 19 Very good point. Keep it simple. I would remove the battery from the other FOB. Take it away from the vehicle. Pull the negative battery terminal. Wait 10 minutes. To clear the PCM. Reconnect it. Then try the FOB. This should do the trick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leaning Posted March 19 Author Report Share Posted March 19 All, This is happening with both keys. So the last few nights I have been keeping the keys away from the car, but overnight, something is draining the battery all the way to nothing. So, I have to jack the front tire up and remove it, remove the panel, remove the battery, take it to Advance to charge it, bring it back, put it back together, put the tire on, and then the chirp'door locking thing starts as soon as the battery is connected. Something is draining the battery overnight, so that's what I have to a drain check to find. Cars... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5rebel9 Posted March 19 Report Share Posted March 19 OK, so you did do as member Rean H posted by removing the FOB battery from the main use key fob and the car still has the problem? Well, now it gets a bit complicated to track down the cause. Yes there could be a problem stemming from the TIPM/fuse panel, but ground wire connections {not just the car battery negative cables} may also be involved. MY suggestion is to have a complete system scan done that checks EVERYTHING of the can bus electronic systems and find out if the computers in the car have recorded any system faults. These codes are very specific to pinpointing source of trouble and will save a lot of frustration and money of not shooting the parts cannon at the car.Also note the can bus electronics will NOT turn on the check engine light if they have recorded trouble codes. The CEL only comes on for engine/trans. faults. These cars are NOT built and "wired" like cars of the 60-70's era! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dean H Posted March 20 Report Share Posted March 20 (edited) The two things you can personally check that cause battery drain are: Bluetooth - Dodge calls it HFM hands free module. Pull the fuse. Eliminated. Glove box light staying on. I disconnected the harness to it. Taped off securely. Dean Edited March 20 by Dean H oops 2late4u 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leaning Posted March 21 Author Report Share Posted March 21 Dean H, The battery was dead, but I was able to not remove it, but just use jumper cables and charge it from another vehicle until I could get it to start. I had already pulled TPIM fuse M10 which says it's for the HFM. I did as you said and disconnected the harness for the glove compartment light (which is part of that compartment door closed plunger). I'm looking to see how to do a current draw test so I hopefully can leave it overnight without it sucking the battery down to nothing again. Thanks for your ideas! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dean H Posted March 21 Report Share Posted March 21 (edited) Great! I have been researching the 09-10 DJ tipm problems. One thing is a fuel pump relay that sticks on. Draining the battery. There is specific harness you can get. That by passes the relay. Eliminating the relay entirely. Go to this page, read it very carefully top to bottom. Everything is explained in depth. https://verticalvisions.com/en/mini-blade-fuse-slots/22-tipm-bypass-cable-simple.html Dean Edited March 21 by Dean H 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dean H Posted March 21 Report Share Posted March 21 (edited) This is the working link. Go here read very carefully. Top to bottom. https://verticalvisions.com/en/mini-blade-fuse-slots/22-tipm-bypass-cable-simple.html Edited March 21 by Dean H 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leaning Posted March 21 Author Report Share Posted March 21 I use this Journey just as a work car, so the less tech and gadgets, the better. So, while I was under the hood pulling the M10 fuse for the HFM, I went ahead and pulled a bunch more of stuff I never use. Less stuff I have to worry about weighing on the electric system. (I did this before bare-bonesing Windows computers that have a bloat of added "helpful" features.) I can always put the fuse back in if I find I need a feature. Anyway, here is what is gone so far. Time to take the car for a drive to see if any of this helped with the original door-locking-itself issue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Katlyn Posted yesterday at 01:48 AM Report Share Posted yesterday at 01:48 AM Hi have you found any solution to this issue?! My 2010 dodge Journey is having this exact same issue all the way down to the battery draining and I have no idea what it is causing it. Thanks in advance!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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