eneusiis

Well...coming full circle on this bastard. The winner is......loose negative battery terminal. I tightened it just before this started happening when I did some work, but it was not tight in the stud came off with no force. probably would have caught it earlier if the damn engineers didn’t but the bastard battery in the freaking wheel well. Completely explains why there was no code thrown.

Well walked over to the car it sat overnight. Turned right on, key fob worked and drove it home just fine. No codes thrown. I am at a fucking loss...........

Just before this happened I changed the thermostat housing . I disconnected the battery negative and put it back on but wonder if that is causing a potential issue if it’s not tight. I will have to verify that when I get it home. I know I got it right on the nut but wonder if it is getting a poor connection. That may explain the power being non existent and then full power all of a sudden days later. If it was the alternator it would kill the battery.

Well the dealership went to start it and it was dead to the world as it was in the parking lot. They waited a day due to its place in line and it magically all worked, no codes and ran like a top and told me they couldn’t do anything because it was running fine. They drove it for a while without issue. so, I pick it up and decide for good measure I am replacing the crank desire myself and the alternator and drive it home without issue 20 miles. I replace the crank sensor and take it for a drive. No issues occur until I pull into the same grocery store and pull into my parking spot, put it in park and hit the start button to stop it and all power goes out....... it now sits in the parking lot dead. I will be going back to pick it up in the am and get it home to replace the alternator. I hope to god it’s the alternator

Hooked a jumper pack to it, Alternator was ALL over the place, so at a minimum the Alternator is toast, which is about expected given 8 years old and 100K miles.

Update....this morning my wife ran to the grocery store and the car is sitting dead as a door nail. Absolutely no power no lights if you open the door nothing lights up and key fob is unresponsive as well. Tow truck on its way..... battery is two years old, but it’s like the ECU just fried.

Today, my wife was driving her Journey, while driving down the road at 30mph-ish, the dash lost power and engine shut off while transmission was in "D"/Drive. She was able to get it to the side of the road and thankfully was not at a busy intersection. I am reading this is a rather "ghost" of a problem from 2010 to current model year. Specs: Last 4 of vin: 7925 Year: 2012 Model: SE Mileage: 115,000 Engine: 2.4L Regular routine maintenance 1 owner since new The car has been pretty flawless since owning it. I was thinking maybe the fuel pump, not supplying the right amount of pressure the engine demanded, but I just put it through its paces and it performed flawlessly. My concern is that it is actually electrical. About a year ago, sometimes the radio would not function properly, such as the power button would not turn on the radio. Also, the climate control, would automatically turn on after a manual shut down from the dash. I pulled the negative terminal on the battery to reset the system a few times, but wondering if it is somehow linked. Symptoms: Loss of all power while driving Engine shut off No power to dash Place transmission back in park, press the start key with foot on the brake and car started back up fine I cannot duplicate it There were NO lights (check engine/malfunction indicator lamp/light) There were NO codes to pull I am kind of at a loss, I have a panic stricken wife, that doesn't want to drive it and I don't blame her and she will use this as an excuse to finally sell it and buy a minivan (which I am okay, with but want a few more years out of it). Any pointers? I can't find a bulletin, recall or anything other than similar scenarios in random forums and web searches. The dealer will not look at it without conditions existing since they can't trouble shoot it. Any help would be greatly appreciated, I would love for a dealer to be able to just find the smoking gun to make my wife feel okay, I don't want a car payment lol. Thanks, Eric

Thank you guys for all replying, your comments were very helpful and really appreciate it!

I have a 2012 Dodge Journey 2.4L w/ 4 Speed Auto Trans 41TES. I just crested the 100,000 mile mark and time for the trans fluid. Luckily, this setup still has a dipstick, which most do not these days. Found it funny that they give you a dipstick, but don't list the capacity in the owners manual! WTF...... anyways. I checked Amsoil website and it indicated: CAPACITIES: 4.2 quarts Initial Fill 4 speed 41TES Total Fill 9.2 quarts I am planning on dropping the pan, replacing the filter and seal. I assume I would be replacing the 4.2 quarts of trans ATF+4 fluid as the remaining fluid is in the converter correct? I will of course measure what ever comes out and replace that exact amount, but looking for confirmation for my shopping list. Thanks, Eric

Did you find the answer? I am getting ready to do this myself.