Jump to content

Leaderboard


Popular Content

Showing most liked content since 03/22/2019 in all areas

  1. 5 points
    2late4u

    Have I been Had

    dealers are allowed to charge different prices on their parts as well as labor, that is why you get a estimate before the work is started and also so you can check around at different dealerships i learned this years ago, also you could have got it done at your local garage using parts from part stores although usually not as good of quality parts as oem... and No you wont be able to get an adjustment, but hey its worth a try...good luck
  2. 4 points
    Summer Solstice

    JOURNEY FROM HELL

    Hmmm, I wonder if I can get Dodge to reimburse me for the transmission in my Chevy? Probably not as it did make it to 125,000 miles. Damn POS!
  3. 4 points
    The clunk is gone! Even though nearly every part in the front suspension is replaced, I’m fairly confident they the problem was the strut mount. Jkeatin was right. Had to replace the RH CV axle to get the car moving again. I think the axle was bad before I started this project. In summary, thus is what is did in the car. Replaced the rear RH upper control link, which was throwing the camber off. The rubber bushing was shot. replaced both front quick strut assemblies, which included new strut mount. Replaced RH and LH front lower control arms. Replaced the RH and LH stabilizer bar links. This was the most difficult part. I ended up having to cut them off with a right angle Grainger. Replaced the stabilizer bar bushings. I had to weld the brackets back in place since all of the bolts broke. Since the car has 140000 miles I doubt they will need replaced again. Sanded and sand blasted the wheels and repainted silver. My son had painted them with black plastipaint. Once I removed that, it was clear why he painted them. Nasty and corroded. Fixed two rusty spots on the rear and front fender. Replaced two rear doors that were rusty. Now I have a car I can enjoy driving and it brought back a lot of good memories of teaching my son to mechanic and the fun we had working on cars together. Thanks all. Hope this helps someone in the future.
  4. 4 points
    Just saw this. Steve. We talked about this... Don't be a hater. Concentrate on getting your car repaired. Please log onto your favorite honda forum. You'll be a star there.
  5. 3 points
    Armando G., Thanks very much for advice! Removed fuse, re-installed bulb and now works great! Thanks to all for your help! It's nice to bounce ideas around! Joshua
  6. 3 points
    Nelson

    Soft brake pedal, bad ABS unit?

    Nope, sorry. I reinstalled the original abs unit, ran the pump, bled all four wheels multiple times all with no improvement from how it was when the car was brought to me. There’s no warning lights on the dash except the tire pressure indicator light and I’ve checked the tire pressures, they are fine. Speedometer is working again with the original abs unit installed. I don’t think the abs is to blame since it works fine and the pedal firms up when the pump runs. I couldn’t waste any more time on it so they are taking it to a shop. If the shop fixes it I’ll post what they found.
  7. 3 points
    most cheap parts( not oem) dont work as good on some models, my father yrs replaced a alternator from a parts store on his caravan and it would last about 1 week then go bad they kept replacing it but finally he took it to a dodge dealership they replace it with one of their alternator and he never had any more problems with it.
  8. 3 points
    jkeaton

    Caliper Covers

    From what I remember, they won't work on the DJ's because of the tight wheel/caliper dimensions on the front wheels. Plus, $249 for 4 pieces of aluminum? No thanks. Much cheaper to spend a day with some caliper paint.
  9. 3 points
    jkeaton

    2012 Service keyless remote system

    Moved to the correct section. Make sure you explain this to the insurance adjuster so it can be fixed as part of the damage repair.
  10. 3 points
    It could be your hatch latch has been damaged and its triggering alarms as it works by fob also.....just a thought
  11. 3 points
    2late4u

    Lift door tail light - see photo

    well since you have it off i assume the light is still working just that part came loose, before spending or looking for a light take a small drill and from the side drill a small hole that you could insert a long needle thur with some gorrille glue in it and do what you can and then after thats done just use a little silicone to fill the hole should work...
  12. 3 points
    JW, just so I got this right: You bought a car you knew was wrecked, didn’t get a CarFax report before you plunked down your money to see how bad, knew it needed work and is at least 10 years old (I got my 09 in July of 08) and expected to make money on reselling it? Seems pretty optimistic. That being said, my has been far from problem free, but I purchased a lifetime warranty AND got the free lifetime power train warranty because I’m the original owner. OK, none of that bullshit helps you. Check the negative battery cable. The sensor at the end corrodes and fails. Check the voltage at the jump terminals, see what you have. Anything less than 13+, start looking at the battery. Also, there has been occurrences of the HF Module draining the battery. Try removing fuse 131 in the fuse box on the passenger side fuse box. Good luck!
  13. 3 points
    Our first dead battery was a 6 year old original. Replaced. 2nd was a dead cell that showed up after about six weeks. Replaced. Third kept dying for no apparent reason. Replaced. Had a parasitic draw test done. Turned out to be the HFM (hands free module - bluetooth). Mechanic pulled the fuse which was number 131 under the passenger side dash. No more problems. I am now an expert battery replacer for the Journey. I am waiting for my certificate in the mail. All sorts of weird electrical shit was happening during low voltage including limp mode. It is a relief to have it fixed. mechanical-idiot
  14. 3 points
    Charge the battery. Disconnect the battery. Leave it for a few minutes and connect it again. Should start. Had the same problem. Our Journey would not start after a 2 day drain. No lights or anything after a battery charge. Had to disconnect it via the negative post before it reset everything and would start. Weird. No logical explanation. Hope it works for you. You obviously have something draining it. You will get a ton of weird codes when your battery is low. Our code list was a mile long when our battery was giving us problems from low voltage. All sorts of electrical shit happens during low voltage setting off the codes. Start with finding the parasitic draw first. That will solve a lot of your code problems. mechanical-idiot
  15. 3 points
    2late4u

    High idle + misfire + random codes

    hey full coverage and a dark road and a match
  16. 3 points
    bfurth

    How to check ATF fluid ?

    I've got a 2010 Town and Country with a 62TE transmission and 140,000+ miles. I've had the fluid and filter changed twice (once at 60k, again at 120k, per the manufacturer recommended cycle under severe duty, since it was a rental fleet vehicle before I purchased it). It had developed a leak at the output shaft seal somewhere around 50k miles, and it was fixed under the powertrain warranty with no issues since. For every person blasting the component on the internet, there are a few hundred happily chugging along. Things break. Thing which move break faster. Things which move and pull several thousand pounds of metal and people break faster still. A vehicle is not an investment - it is a capital expense. Never forget that.
  17. 3 points
    I know that there is a computer initiated bleed procedure for a newly installed ABS module. The correct procedure is 4 wheel bleed, ABS automated bleed, 4 wheel bleed again. If you don't have a scan tool capable of initiating that bleed, take it to a shop.
  18. 3 points
    bfurth

    Maintenance at 100,000 kilometers

    At the very least, learn to do brakes yourself. There's no reason to touch the calipers unless they're leaking or fully seized. A 4 corner pad and rotor replacement can be done for $200 USD on the 2011, I don't think it's much more for later versions with the bigger brakes, plus the cost of obtaining appropriate tools if you don't already have them (socket set, jack, stands, wheel chocks, torque wrench, caliper wind back set - combined, you're looking at anywhere from $100 plus renting/borrowing what you need just for that job, $250 if you buy everything, and as much as you want if you buy it from a truck). Throw in an extra $10 for some sand paper (clean up the surface of the wheel hubs when you change rotors), anti-seize (makes removing the rotor the next time MUCH easier), and some brake grease (lubricate the slide pins - I've had friends with brake problems that were entirely due to the fact that the slide pins were bone dry), you could do the whole thing yourself in an afternoon for under $500 USD. The next time you'd have to do it, it's only $200, and under $100 if you catch the pads before they wear out. The way the older models (pre-2012) chew though brakes (single piston front caliper is the tell for the smaller brakes), you should learn to do it yourself. There are plenty of threads on this topic on this board (and I think one or two where I've posted the torque specs for the associated bolts).
  19. 2 points
    Isn’t the 3.5 a 6 cylinder? I know my 09 is a 6 and pretty sure it’s a 3.5, but might be wrong. If not you missed 2 plugs....
  20. 2 points
    FYI... most of the Curt writing harnesses have a fuse at the battery end. Check the fuse, or remove the fuse completely if you don't tow. Their could be a short on that wire (the one running to the front of the vehicle and connecting to the battery) that is making the system function incorrectly. I've had that wiring harness installed for two years now with no issues, but I do remove the fuse when I am not towing. Make sure that white ground wire is also cleanly connected. You can also call Curt and explain what is happening... their customer service people are really helpful. Good luck.
  21. 2 points
    Summer Solstice

    Steering wheel not centered

    Given all of the work that you have done, why not get it aligned? It may drive straight but it could be out enough in multiple components that one offsets the other. With the possible increased tire wear and small reduction in gas mileage, plus the satisfaction of a job well done, are you really saving more than a couple of dollars? Finish the job and then enjoy the fruits of your labor.
  22. 2 points
    2late4u

    Steering wheel not centered

    you will have to have an alignment done to get it straight. also it being off center wouldn't cause a warning light unless the front end is so far off or has other problems
  23. 2 points
    2late4u

    Caliper Covers

    yep the offset will get you unless you use a spacer or different rims
  24. 2 points
    jkeaton

    No sound from any speakers

    If it's "just an old amp", maybe it went bad. Put everything back to stock and see if the speakers start working. Process of elimination.
  25. 2 points
    55 mph? i just cruise at 70-80 have never paid any attention to how it shifts......
  26. 2 points
    jkeaton

    No sound from any speakers

    Without knowing the details of the aftermarket amp install (did you use adapters/wiring harnesses or splice into existing wiring, etc.?) Have you checked the fuses? Is the amp still getting power? Is the amp still turning on?
  27. 2 points
    jkeaton

    Performance brakes

    I use mid-grade pads from my local parts store. Never had an issue.
  28. 2 points
    Correct the known faults. Cruise will start working again.
  29. 2 points
    Here is a photo of the beast. We love it, but we have had to put some money into it in the past 16 months. Oh well, every vehicle has it's problems. mechanical-idiot
  30. 2 points
    ^^This I had a 2 year old battery fail with a dead cell. It would charge but would be dead the next day. It was under warranty so the dealer diagnosed it but the dash threw all kinds of warnings and lights. Have the battery and the alternator load checked. Check all of the wiring from the battery out. There have been some who had trouble with a sensor embedded in the negative terminal post clamp at the battery. I don't know anything about that one but something to look for. These vehicles are very subsectable to low or inconsistent voltage.
  31. 2 points
    Got it back today. Working like new. No more warning lights on dash. Didn't need a flash as it was a sensor, not a module. Plug and play part. Hope our bad luck changes. mechanical-idiot
  32. 2 points
    2late4u

    Guess I'm the new guy

    welcome to the group.
  33. 2 points
    OhareFred

    lift gate wont unlock

    Your pressing the wrong button? Your battery is dead? Your at the wrong car? sorry, couldn’t resist. Like JKeaton said we need more info. Do any of your locks open with the remote? How about the door lock button? Do you hear any noise at the tailgate when you try? Are all your tail lights, license plate lamps working? Let us know...
  34. 2 points
    redtomatoman

    How to check ATF fluid ?

    Ok. Steve. Maybe it wouldn't have made any difference what your dipstick told you. Cars have problems sometimes. My transmission also failed at 77K. There were no symptoms. I had it serviced by the dealer at 60K miles. It was replaced under my lifetime warranty. Yes. I'm pissed at chrysler. Will these transmissions begin dropping like flies? Dunno. Time will tell. Don't be a hater. It's so unbecoming. At least don't do it here. You'll likely get more likes on a honda forum. Here you'll find as much DJ help as we can provide through a forum. Peace.
  35. 2 points
    OhareFred

    How to check ATF fluid ?

    One of the dumbest statements I’ve heard all week came from someone with a 6 year old car crying because something broke, but i’ve had a slow week.
  36. 2 points
    jkeaton

    Trans will not catch any gear

    Are you just going to comment on every transmission post and complain? Lol
  37. 2 points
    2012 Journey RT AWD kept killing batteries. Took it to a mechanic. Couldn't find a parasitic draw. Got new battery. Killed it in 6 weeks. 3rd killed battery. Took it to another mechanic. He did a parasitic draw test. He found that it was drawing 50 milliamps when sitting in the garage with everything off. He said that it should not draw beyond 35. So, he started pulling fuses and replacing them one at a time while checking the draw. He pulled a fuse called HFM (under the dash on passenger side - hands free module) and the draw went down to 29 milliamps. Put it back in and kept pulling. No other fuses reduced the draw. He told me that the fuse was for the bluetooth. Son of a bitch! The bluetooth was intermittent, then quit working for us. So, we pulled the fuse and have not had a problem with the battery draining since. We had to have the battery charged on an industrial charger to bring it up to snuff. He did a slow trickle charge overnight, so it was charged for 2 days. Seems to have brought the battery back to snuff. New HFM costs 737 dollars Canadian at our dealer (before taxes). Son of a bitch! Easy enough to put in (check out youtube for the video), if you don't mind taking off the brake pedal. Seems to be a common problem with a lot of Dodge Journeys. You might want to pull this fuse first if you have this problem. Might save you a few bucks in mechanical fees! Then again, it may be a totally different problem for you. Hope this helps someone out there in the real world. mechanical-idiot
  38. 2 points
    Wouldn't hurt to try this. Let us know how it goes.
  39. 2 points
    jkeaton

    Towing

    Nothing. That is not a feature of this vehicle.
  40. 2 points
    2late4u

    How to check ATF fluid ?

    i did use my reg oil dipstick for measurement for the trans, gt the measurement off a you tube for marking it i simple file scrape on the stick marks the stick real easy,just make sure you clean the oil off first and replace the cap securely...
  41. 2 points
    martyman.geo

    LED headlights

    JKeateon, Thank you for explaining that. I ordered a low beam set with the CANbus attached on the 14, they came in on the 28 and installed them this afternoon. Don't look into the light after they are in. Pretty darn bright in the daylight. I want to check them out at night to see the difference. I did make sure the flat sides facing the sides not up and down.
  42. 2 points
    well i had my 3.6 eng oil sensor go bad and the pressure Gage showing maxed out on high while i was on a trip ran fine but i called the local dealership about it and took it in to them they replaced it and said i could have drove it as the senor was just shorted out , he did say if it had showed no pressure instead of high pressure that would have been a different story, are you getting any stored code for the eng? hope you get it figured out and keep us informed on what you find out for other bloggers that might come up with the same problem...good luck
  43. 2 points
    2late4u

    Strange Drivers Door Behavior

    other than that not sure of the problem.but check the wiring at the front of the door in the rubber boot could be a wiring problem there, i think there was a recall on that as well
  44. 2 points
    by high end plugs i hope you meant mopar approved plugs as they know which plugs work best with their engines, after market plugs companies will advertise anything they want to sell you something
  45. 2 points
    2late4u

    Help

    shouldn't have put his head in the mud....sorry couldn't resist cant understand your post.
  46. 1 point
    J.W.

    High idle + misfire + random codes

    Thanks OhareFred. I knew it needed an injector and didnt notice the signs of it being in an accident till a few days after purchase. What I think could be a bad wreck, could be a failed attempt to remedy terrible paint peel (minus the ding in the rear). I paid $1700 and figured I could get rid of it for $2400 pretty easy. So far I $80 in it. Being optimistic that I'll find a short or bad ground that magically fixes everything.
  47. 1 point
    redtomatoman

    Weird Engine Behaviour

    I get a bad feeling about the transmission. If I were you, I'd have a look in the transmission pan to see if there are any metal shavings. If not, then I'd start down the sensor route. I hope I'm wrong, but it seems like these DJ transmissions are beginning to go bad on a number of vehicles. Mine did... Peace.
  48. 1 point
    OhareFred

    Maintenance at 100,000 kilometers

    Can’t help you with the cost of plugs,etc. but who gave you the line of crap about the alignment? I get a 4 wheel alignment every couple years.....about $120 US
  49. 1 point
    jkeaton

    Oil types, viscosity and oil pressure

    Use the manufacturer recommended oil. Newer vehicles use lighter oil.
  50. 1 point
    mikeiam

    Active Head Restraints

    I finally pulled one of the headrest out of my 2010 R/T, so now I know a little better on how these things work. The headrest does not have any high tech methods of being attached to the seats, they just use the little indents like a regular headrest to go up and down. There is a wire that runs inside the chrome tube that goes into the plastic box on the back side of the headrest, this activates the unit when you are rear ended (not sure if its explosives or a motor that pushes the padding forward). Your headrest should not go up or down automatically unless you have a loose clip and gravity allows it fall lower into the seat. On a side note, does anyone know how to bypass the active headrest sensor so the airbag light doesn't come on? I measured 2.5 ohm resistance, so I will try a resistor in the plug, but any help or suggestions would be appreciated.
×