John/Horace

Sounds very frustrating. Trouble shoot temperature probe. Measure value at hood probe harness plug and then the output value that arrives at the pin coming in to pcm. Cold and at 200F when error occurs. Need pcm pin out diagram, Mitchel log in. Maybe probe or harness issue.

Crap in the lines maybe. Flush out a bit before nozzle outlet. Check bottom of reservoir for grit. Hood jets fragile and pricy, be careful. How is hatch spray, normal. There are two pumps on system.

https://www.moparpartscanada.ca/oem-parts/mopar-drip-channel-68019472aa?c=bT0xJmw9MyZuPVJlY29tbWVuZGVkIFByb2R1Y3RzJms9MQ%3D%https://www.moparpartscanada.ca/oem-parts/mopar-drip-channel-68019472aa?c=bT0xJmw9MyZuPVJlY29tbWVuZGVkIFByb2R1Y3RzJms9MQ%3D%3D 0ED150FA-4766-4D15-8EC7-228BBEBCDB2F.webp

I hate random parts throwing but… cps sensor is critical, not hard to change or expensive. Non oem on occasion can create a lot of weird stuff. As already mentioned. Sensor Reluctor wheel damage or misalignment for cam or CPS sensors comes up on engine sites. VVT sensors run on oil pressure, heat can change viscosity and pressure. How is oil pressure.?

The TIPM and body ground control module BCM have a lot of things running through them. Without a schematic and ability to read them it can be tricky to find this kind of fault. Most common cause of overnight dead battery from parasitic load on Journeys. Is the blue tooth module buried in the dash. Very pricy to buy and hard to get at to change. People pull the fuse in the passenger side kick fuse panel as short term fix. Hand free module fuse so I think called HFM fuse. F131 it’s 10 amp. There is another fuse in this panel that has constant power and it controls hvac switches maybe time delay on radio off function. Try pulling it by itself with the battery still hooked up (leave it out for 5 mins, then back). Maybe it will help synch things; long shot really. Fuse F109. The cluster itself is fed from F108, make sure it’s not blown while you are in there. Get a magnifying glass to read fuse look up table.😀

It’s not structural to car so don’t panick. A body shop would pound it back to approx shape, then weld in some sheet metal maybe. Body filler to smooth out. Not cheap. You could do the similar fix sans the welding. Long strand fibreglass is great for filling out odd shapes; water proof and crazy strong. Or just use light gauge metal and rivets to cover a hole if there is one.

It’s a vent, stick a piece of wire in tube and make sure it’s clear to inside of housing. Vents the condensation. Or drill a few more holes close to top of housing at the back, so water not forced in. Or add gold fish to housing and call it a day.

They supplied the bezel to fit the new screen . It a 9” versus 8.4 “ and shape looks a little different. How large is the canbus box that came with this unit. There was no factory back up cam and it was added by the canbus box configuration? So new wiring to tail gate was also added for this purpose? Thx.

Rated for 60k miles so not bad. Have had very good results with several sets of factory Kumho tires on Elantras and Santa Fe. Back when their engines where not GDI crap, but Mitsubishi design. Curious about the oil cooler change. Our 2014 went at 93k miles or 148kms in 2019. Lost a quart in 30 miles, major leak just made it home to driveway. Aluminum units were talked about but not sold yet. Had to go with another oem plastic unit and have logged another 60k miles. Debating on when to upgrade to aluminum. My brother has a 2017 Ram with 3.6 and same plastic cooler and 93k miles no sign of leak yet. Jeep and Ram with 3.2 and 3.6 have had same cooler failures for several years. Seems like heat and vibration causes warping and failure. How many miles do would you trust a plastic oil cooler assembly for. Is it possible they have fixed quality issue and units are ok now. Don’t want to waste $ to change unit if not needed. The same phenolic plastic stuff is used for oil pan and rocker covers and seems to work ok. Easier application ?

Bad ball joints eat tires fast, as you know. We lost one real early on the RT, around 60k miles. Good to do before new rubber goes on car. My all weather tires are made by Cooper, US made I believe. I think you get about 80% of the stated tire life with this style tire. Not as good handling as top shelf snows, but noticeably better than regular all season tires. With snow symbol insurance companies that give discount for snow tires recognize them as snows.

So it’s the 3.5 timing belt engine I assume. Still original belt most likely. Either wrong longer spark plugs getting hit or slightly stretched belt/weak tensioner triggering limp mode power loss. The fact it still ran after piston clipped plug is pretty impressive. Very time consuming complex job to swap out belt and tensioner and usually water pump.

Spring car maint, just did winters to summers swap and now have parts on order. Back wheel bearings started to howl two months ago. At around 249kms or 155 miles, not that bad for original bearings really. Only one front original bearing left. Waiting for rockauto parts now. One front outer tie rod also needs changing, will do both. This vehicle will go to my daughter eventually so keeping up the maint. Even on a new car I find the low profile 19” tires run firmer but handle better. Our snows are 17” Dunlop tires so I have experienced the difference. The look of the alum spoke 19” rims is also nicer …but costly. You could explore the all weather (mtn snow flake symbol) tires most companies sell now. My pickup has them so you run them all year. Not quite as good a winter and slightly more money. Only one set of rims/Tpms sensors is also nice.

Wife has 249kms or 154k miles with original coils and injectors, on second plug set still, used NGK laser irredium ( largest plug manufacture, they own AC Delco etc). Injectors seldom go, except on BMW X5 few others. I like to go with hard codes for part changes. But yeah MAP or upstream O2 can cause rich running. Downstream are for confirming cats working, don’t affect fuel trim like upstream. Gas is expensive so I usually change them by 100k miles. I changed both upstream with NTK ( division of NGK who I think made the Mopar factory part, identical stamped SS casing) when I was changing oil heat exchanger unit at 150kms. I try to use oem when possible, especially on critical buried parts that are hard to get at. But stuff often out of stock at crappy local dealer and in Canada marked up 3-4 hundred percent over aftermarket. Rockauto for Mopar is best, although Mopar Canada on line and picked up at dealer a week later gets 20% off usually.

https://www.aar.org/issue/freight-rail-operational-regulation/ Too much at stake with only one engineer humanoid. I hope Robo-Johan not insulted.😎 Marine navigation pilot and tugs the next billion dollar question. Or better backup systems. Although the people involved did well in the minutes they had.

You were told timing belt was changed? Neither the 2.4 nor the 3.6 have a belt, it’s a chain. Very involved and expensive repair. If not done properly it could run rough. Or was it the surpentine belt that drives alternator pwr steering etc. Always start with checking for codes when diagnosing.