John/Horace

Welcome to the site. How many miles on vehicle, model ? How long have tires been in use; what is the wear pattern? Noise can be so many things. Lower ball joints are very common wear item on journey front ends. Easiest test is tire off the ground and hands at 12 and 6 o'clock, for play. Shouldn't be up and down play. While 3 and 9 oclock is good for tierod play testing. Our 2014 needed driver side ball joint replaced at 50k miles or 75k ish kilometers. Quality of roads driven on make a difference. Earliest yr of journeys 2009-11 had the cheaper suspension parts. Later yrs much better.

Found the old post again. Haven't tried link. https://www.driveuconnect.com/support/software-update.html

I have run two phones on a 2014 uconnect system for a few years. One phone is designated as the favourite. It's an older system so a little finicky, ours is an 8.4 screen but that shouldn't matter. Maybe pull both power fuses from radio so it has no power for 20 seconds. Then repair with Bluetooth to both phones. I know us older guys hate fighting with this stuff, but ....it is handy when it works right. Haven't tried to update ours, but there is a firmware update on the uconnect web site. Copied to a USB jump drive and then uploaded, like map updates. I posted a link to the uconnect site a few years ago. The Bluetooth module seems to be the thing that acts up the most with these uconnect systems. There is that New Jersey guy on this site who tests and reflashes the hfm modules; gives a recore for your old one. He seems legitimate and pricing not unreasonable.

Ours has the vanity mirror lights, they are handy. I like the new clear adhesives for interior work. Gorilla glue or E6000, urethane based I think, easy to cut off excess, quite strong.

Solder and heat shrink on a pig tail extensions. Takes less space then crimp connectors, conducts better. Electronic solder and paste flux. Multi strand copper,not single strand. Pop out the old broken mirror from visor, maybe glued in. If it's not hard to remove, do same with powered mirror, then solder new wire extensions right on hidden contacts on back of new mirror assembly.

Good news. Still remove loose rust on hangers. Even a light film of grease or Rust Check green can spray on those brackets will slow down the rust. If your really close to the ocean; salt in the air all the time rots cars fast. I've been all over the east coast, beautiful part of the country.

Even timing chains can wear out with bad luck, high milage, lack of maintenance. Much easier to change a belt then a timing chain; always cheaper as well. My 2000 quad 4 chain tensioner never made 100k miles, and water pump ran off chain, brilliant. The 2026 Honda Odyssey van still has a 3.5 v6 with timing belt. Kevlar reinforced belt and I'm sure most people exceed the 105k or 7 yr interval. Belt engines keep the engine oil a lot cleaner; no chain or gears in the oil flow. My brother's 3.5 fca motor went beyond 200k miles...with belt and water pump changed. He drove it to an auto wrecker; rust killed it, not the 3.5 reliability. The 3.6 was bought in because of emmission regulations, I believe. Also a very decent engine.

Good pics ! If the oversized hole is accessible from behind, a 6" long length of threaded rod with washers could be long term fix. Cheaper than welding. Welding by the plastic fuel tank won't be popular with most shops. Chicken wire fished through both visible holes could be wrapped around or through the hole on the rubber biscuit hanger part. At least give some support until full fix. Wire brush off the loose rust off muffler hanger stud first; then wd40 or even dish soap to lube up rubber hanger; allow it to spin and align at new correct location.

How are the hatch shocks working out? Not getting beaned when they aren't strong enough to hold the heavy fibreglass hatch in the air. I used stabilus because I saw them on a few japanese cars. Only brand name I recognized.

And the result was....

This is the most related topic discussion. If you still have car.

Welcome to site. You must have the 3.5 engine, it's was pretty reliable unit. If you don't have service records, do all the fluids right away, cheapest maint you can do in the long run. Especially if you have dripping leaks; can't tell fluid level without refilling sometimes.

Unfortunately some US sites don't ship up north, too much hazzle. https://www.moparpartscanada.ca/search?search_str=5033307AC Shipping will add more to price, ask for quote. Small light item I paid $10 few months ago; prices getting crazy now.

While the 62TE transmission does not require internal programming, you must perform a "Quick Learn" procedure and clear the adaptive memory in the vehicle's computer (PCM/TCM) after replacing the transmission, solenoid pack, or valve body. [1, 2, 3]

If you kept the original factory cps. Put it back in and do a reprogram again.