Summer Solstice

I have heard direct horror stories of oil plugs not tightened and having come out. My own experience with the questionable (ie: fraudulent) upsell led me to avoid our quick change places. My wife used the local dealer for a while and then transferred to a trusted mechanic. I use a dealership for my Journey. The cost, over a year's time, is not that much more but having it done right, including the additional free inspection, is worth it to me. My days of wrenching are mostly over, by choice.

I have been very happy with my 2016. Good luck with yours and welcome to the forum.

That's an excellent price for just the battery given how the prices have gone up the last few years. The installation is just the icing on the cake, though I wonder if they knew before hand what a pain the DJ battery is. Not to worry for them as I assume they made it back while you were waiting in the checkout line.

If all of your stock speakers are working then we should be able to rule out the amp and the head unit. Now I would have to wonder about the wiring to and from the remote amp. Can you post a detailed picture of the amp showing all of the wiring and connections? You state that you have power to the amp so I am assuming that you are measuring the voltage that powers the amp. I am not understanding the reference to no power from amp to subs. Not being familiar with the equipment in question I am just thinking of general wiring configurations. What are you actually measuring between the amp and the subs? DC voltage would be very low between an amp and speakers in an audio configuration. Measuring ohms, you can check continuity from point to point for wiring or connection problems. Also check any fuses with a meter as sometimes a fuse can blow but still appear okay. Pictures may be helpful.

Look under any car past a few years old and you are likely to see at least one point of a very minor leak. It is a fact of life and not related to any particular brand. As I usually buy a newer vehicle around 3 years old, this is one of the things that I look for. Even then, it is somewhat difficult to find a perfectly clean vehicle underneath. As long as it is very minor, with no indication of even a drip on the floor, leave it IMO. If everything is operating correctly, just check the level, add any if necessary, and keep on driving. There is a very good chance that it is down barely at all. Consider it part of routine maintenance of an older vehicle to monitor any known leaks and address them when needed. You may never need too before the time comes to replace it. Just keep an eye on it periodically, depending on the amount of leakage.

If your hose is the original, and from 2011, it may be time to change it. Pull the hose from the thermostat, inspect the hose for a small perforation from the clamp. Use a flashlight, and a magnifying tool if you have one, and inspect the thermostat housing for a small hairline crack. It may have been over tightened. Once done, reinstall the hose and put on a new, quality clamp. Make sure to everything is seated correctly. If the leak persists, then you can contemplate a new hose and/or housing.

I bought my 2016 with 18000 miles on it. I negotiated two new tires to go on the rear. Ever since I bought it, it pulled ever so slightly to the left. I finally had a 4 wheel alignment done ($89.oo at the dealer). I also had the tires rotated so the newer ones were on the front. The older tires now had 25000 on them and had significant wear on the outside from the alignment being slightly off. Another 20000 miles and there has been no further wear. In the meantime, I did have a front rattle from a loose suspension part but at 45000 miles, the vehicle is still straight and the tires have no undue wear. It is my own opinion that the Journey may be knocked out of alignment fairly easy but I drive Michigan roads every day and have hit some significant pot holes with no aftereffects. If these roads don't destroy an alignment then I have to believe in the vehicle.

Second flat tire logged in and history. At least it was a just a nice cold rain in Michigan rather than snow. It was also in the parking lot rather than the freeway. It was also the older of the pair of Kumos and not a loss to replace. Being between a rim and a hard place, I went with a set of Yocohamas. Full price No sale. We shall see.

When might be today!

You do have an amp in the back that will sound louder than the front. Of course, you already know this. You may have an impedance mismatch. With the same input power, a 4 ohm speaker will sound louder than a 6 ohm speaker. 4 ohms draws more power from the amp. If the sound from the front is very weak, you may have a bad connection, loose connection at the head unit, or a bad ground. The first process of elimination that I would suggest, in this order: Check your balance settings in the head unit. Check all of your connections, depending on which ones you actually have worked with, for something loose. Unhook the rear amp and see if the volume on the front changes without the draw from the rear.

What he said. I had to have roadside assistance jump start mine two days in a row. At 25,000 miles the battery was defective. Dealer diagnosed it and replaced the battery under warranty. At 14,000, you should not be paying for an engine light.

Hmmm, I wonder if I can get Dodge to reimburse me for the transmission in my Chevy? Probably not as it did make it to 125,000 miles. Damn POS!

Than you for the update. Oil pressure sensors are the first suspect if everything else seems fine. Been there, done that on a chevy.

Given all of the work that you have done, why not get it aligned? It may drive straight but it could be out enough in multiple components that one offsets the other. With the possible increased tire wear and small reduction in gas mileage, plus the satisfaction of a job well done, are you really saving more than a couple of dollars? Finish the job and then enjoy the fruits of your labor.

^^This I had a 2 year old battery fail with a dead cell. It would charge but would be dead the next day. It was under warranty so the dealer diagnosed it but the dash threw all kinds of warnings and lights. Have the battery and the alternator load checked. Check all of the wiring from the battery out. There have been some who had trouble with a sensor embedded in the negative terminal post clamp at the battery. I don't know anything about that one but something to look for. These vehicles are very subsectable to low or inconsistent voltage.

I do know that Autozone carries EBC.

Per your thread title, the noise only happens during braking and/or stopping? If it was suspension related, I would think it would also happen over bumps. Could it be a mount, such as motor or transmission? Either would shift position during braking. They should also shift during start but not necessarily. I am thinking something loose, even under the hood, that rocks forward on deceleration. Could be something tight but just out of position to the point that it catches and releases under deceleration. A slightly loose brake caliper, or one the is not seated square, would do it too. Never heard of that, but I suppose it could happen. For what it's worth, even though there have been many complaints, i do not have a problem with mine. It is very quiet except a barely perceptable rattle in the braking system itself, which does not concern me. To wit, it is not an inherent feature of all Journeys. Good luck and my condolences.

Use your rpm and temperature gauges as a guide to how hard you are working your vehicle. The transmission temperature gauge in the center readout will allow you to judge the load on your transmission. The rpm and engine coolant gauges will allow you to watch your engine load. It's a little more interactive than a vehicle designed for extensive towing but you will have real-time readout that is very useful for towing within what the Journey is designed for.

Why would you expect that to be fantasy? You have a warranty, right? Sounds like you should talk to the dealer rather than making an assumption. Give them a chance to make it right first. I would also seek out corporate on this. While it may have been out of warranty in the beginning, some times they do stand behind it. Give them a chance to earn the reputation that they will have tomorrow.

1970 Dodge Coronet R/T - 440 Magnum 1977 Chevy Malibu 1986 Chevy S10 4WD -2.8L POS 1982 Pontiac 6000 - Diesel 1991 Saturn SL1 1985 Ford F150 - Included bail twine 1991 Buick Regal 1994 Oldsmobile Ciera - Reliable 1998 Buick Regal 1998 Grand Marquis 2009 Chevy Impala 2016 Dodge Journey R/T First and last on the list are Dodge R/Ts

^^ With the Journey in the driveway, I can operate the remote features just fine from a distance away in the house. The keyless entry, on the other hand, does not work unless the key is with me. I was curious one day and tried it.

My 2016 had an annoying rattle, at 34000 miles, when going over bumps. The dealer changed the sway bar link 8000 miles ago. In and out in 1.5 hours. It has been quiet since.

Try calling the link in the post that I put in your other thread. You may be able to get a hard copy...for a price. Never hurts to ask.

Try this website: Mopar Tech Authority (FCA website linked to at dodge.com) https://www.techauthority.com/ They list the service manual, on disc or USB. Prices that you would expect from a dealer sourced service manual and scant details. If this is what you are looking for, a phone number or other contact information is available for you to ask questions. No personal experience. Good luck and report back if successful.