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Johns big journey

Journey Member
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    14
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About Johns big journey

Profile Information

  • Region
    Decline
  • Journey's Year
    2009
  1. Was wondering if anyone knows if a 2017 journey rear spring/strut assembly will fit on a 2009 journey.
  2. I agree. I changed all of mine with OEM mounts from mymoparts.com. Pretty good prices. The side and front are easy. The rear is more difficult to access, but I got it done. The rubber in the rear mount was broken. Rattle is reduced but still there. I’ve given up trying to solve the rattle and bought a new Journey. Old blue is going to the kids until it dies.
  3. Update on my journey clunk and noise issue. Strut mounts definitely made improvement but I still have other noises. I jus replaced all 4 motor mounts. The front and rear were bad, some noise was reduced, but the rattles are still there. It’s a metallic rattled when going over very small bumps. Sounds like something in the wheel. Stumped again.
  4. What made you think the motor mounts needed replaced? After replacing all of the front suspension parts, My ‘09 still has various rattles in the front end. My thought was motor mounts. Have other members heard of the cause for these various rattles I’m hearing?
  5. I see multiple topics in the journey rear suspension camber problems which causes uneven tire wear. But I don’t see any clear solutions. I recently replaced the upper control arm with a standard non-adjustable part. The rubber bushing looked to be shot, so I thought the camber problem would be gone. But no. The other bushing on the knuckle and the other control arms looked to be ok. I am considering using the Moog adjustable upper control arm. But before I do, I was wondering if anyone has had luck using this adjustable part? thx
  6. The clunk is gone! Even though nearly every part in the front suspension is replaced, I’m fairly confident they the problem was the strut mount. Jkeatin was right. Had to replace the RH CV axle to get the car moving again. I think the axle was bad before I started this project. In summary, thus is what is did in the car. Replaced the rear RH upper control link, which was throwing the camber off. The rubber bushing was shot. replaced both front quick strut assemblies, which included new strut mount. Replaced RH and LH front lower control arms. Replaced the RH and LH stabilizer bar links. This was the most difficult part. I ended up having to cut them off with a right angle Grainger. Replaced the stabilizer bar bushings. I had to weld the brackets back in place since all of the bolts broke. Since the car has 140000 miles I doubt they will need replaced again. Sanded and sand blasted the wheels and repainted silver. My son had painted them with black plastipaint. Once I removed that, it was clear why he painted them. Nasty and corroded. Fixed two rusty spots on the rear and front fender. Replaced two rear doors that were rusty. Now I have a car I can enjoy driving and it brought back a lot of good memories of teaching my son to mechanic and the fun we had working on cars together. Thanks all. Hope this helps someone in the future.
  7. Yep, had to nap. Now I’m going to rip it all apart again and see if I can jam the LH CV back into place.
  8. After checking, The RH drive shaft is working al though with a little noise (probably is bad) and the LH is not spinning at all. The LH grinds when the car is put in park. How bad Is it? Ugh!
  9. Ok, I just finished replacing the lower control arms, stabilizer bar bushings, stabilizer bar like and quick strut assembly (strut and spring assembly with new strut mount). I put the car in gear and the car wouldn’t move. Looks like the drive shaft disconnected. How do I fix this?
  10. A mechanic friend of mine road in the car yesterday. He quickly heard the noise and diagnosed it as the upper-strut-mount. I’m not convinced, but did order a set of Monroe strut-spring assemblies. I’m hoping that the cheap brand we put on last year are the culprit. I’ll post the results once I install them.
  11. The title is my post is a little deceiving, as the clunk happens when going over bumps, even while braking. I wrote the title this way to address some of the other posts that say the clunk goes away while braking. I.e. root cause is loose caliper. My journey clunks whenever I go over bumps, which is a lot, since I live in northern Oakland County, Michigan. I have to drive two miles on dirt roads to get to my house. The noise is ridiculous with all of the washboard roads we have this spring. Can you imagine!? i was wondering about other body mounts and rubber bushings too. Just haven’t been able to pinpoint anything that looks like the cause. The search continues... Thank you all for your condolences.
  12. My son and I replaced the struts and as far as I can remember, we did. Have experienced this solving the clunk noise?
  13. I’ve just titled my deceased son’s 2009 journey SXT. I’ve had to fix a couple of things, but this front end clunk will not go away. It’s spring time one year later. PLEASE WATCH FOR MOTOR CYCLES. To the topic. The strut assemblies, tie rods, and now the driver side lower control arm has been replaced. It looks like my son had replaced the torsion bar bushings too, since they are bright blue. i’ve read all the forums, including this one, and internet advice and it seems like this problem has no solution. Before I sink more money into this problem, I thought that I would try one more time to see if anyone has found the solution. Or should I just give up a live with it? Thx
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