Summer Solstice

I purchased my 2016 at Lafontaine in Fenton, MI two years ago. The sales experience was lackluster, to say the least. The people were very nice and always tried their best but the system tended to let them, and me, down. There were numerous occasions where the ball was dropped and I had to come back the next day. Once I had the vehicle, I began to use their service department. Again, the experience was lackluster. There was more effort put into upselling "recommended" services than just taking care of the issues. The last service visit was for a warranty repair. While waiting for the part and a loaner vehicle to become available I was encouraged to get the "recommended" service 6 times via email, letters, and phone. A year and a half later, I'm still waiting on the warranty part and loaner. After that experience, I took the Journey to Al Deeby in Clarkston, MI. I was in and out in 1.5 hours with diagnostic and repair complete. No hassles, no upsell. I have used them for routine service since with absolutely no problems. They take care of the scheduled service and never push for a "recommended" upcharge. I am very happy with the service department so far and will continue to use them until that changes. It's all about the trust.

Have FCA Canada explain to you what the R65 means. They are the ones that suggested this course of action. I would want a clear understanding of the cause and fix before I hand over $1000.00 and a guaranty that it is going to solve the problem. If their advise is worth $1000.00 then the explanation should be too.

@jkeaton Ask a moderator to move this to the correct section.

I had to replace the batteries in two key fobs that were only 2 years old. They still did not work. I got some good quality, name brand (the others were too) batteries and now they work like a champ. The lesion was that the fobs may not like certain brands even though the batteries are new. Why? I don't know. Some small issue with fit maybe but the new ones have been in almost a year now.

Here is the winning number. XXXXXX I x'd it out so no one else would get it.

Fuse boxes don't die. They have other problems but they don't die.

Here is the link to the thread that ^^^^^^ is referring too. Lots of good information but there was no concrete resolution.

I'm thinking that your suspicions are on the right track, given that the noise ceases when load is applied. My experience with dealers is that some are phenomenal while others should be avoided at all costs.

Welcome to the site. We are a bunch of "driven" folks here. We hope that your experience is a positive one, bad puns and all. Arkansas is a beautiful state, except for the chiggers. Ask me how I know.

For the continuing misfire problem, you may have a head gasket or cylinder head issue. I am just throwing this out and it would not be my first thought. You may have a bad connection from the wire connector to the coil. You may have a bad connection from the wire harness to the fuel injector. You may have a bad head gasket and/or a warped head. Not likely the head its self is damaged but a hard-to-find misfire could indicate that. Have a compression test done and a leak-down test done. Again, not at the top of the list but if nothing else resolves the problem then it is something to rule out.

Given the amount of corrosion that you have there you likely have it elsewhere as well.

There are so many possibilities here. The doors could be individual switches or you may have a bad ground. The horn story is suspect and makes one wonder if someone has down some alterations. If that is true, who knows what else has been done. Either a trusted garage or a wiring diagram to troubleshoot your self.

Same here. I have dropped one dealer that did not put my interests before profit. Fortunately there is another one on my daily commute and they have been exceptional.

There are many threads on this forum about parasitic draw problems and what people have found to be the cause. One diagnostic practiced is to pull the fuse that powers the suspect component. You can do a search for some ideas. In the meantime, this is, IMO, a case for a dealer. You have an extended warranty and a case manager. Please keep us informed as you find out more information.

I get this email occasionally. I have never tried it. The 2016 maps are decent enough with some glaring holes that I would have no confidence that spending the money on the upgrade would fix. I also have no problem using the manual functions to find something. I can't say the same for the voice option. However, with all the issues that people have with the NAV system locking up I'm inclined to leave things alone until something actually breaks.

Find the "hood open" interlock and bypass that temporarily.

Not had that problem but, in reality, $120.00 in not a lot when you consider the time and expense of trial and error. Ask the shop if the diagnostic charge is applied toward the repair. Most shops follow that practice. In the end, you have to weight the pros and cons of having the brake system repaired once and working correctly versus your skill and confidence that you can do the task yourself cheaper, and get it correct the first time. Having the correct code and the cost and ease of changing the part yourself vs a shop that you trust and the time that you save. Good luck.

If all of the oil in your engine had gone into the coolant system, your car would be knocking and ticking for just a bit before catastrophic damage occurred. What jkeaton has suggested is far more likely. Transmission oil will float on the coolant and make it look dark, murky, and frothy in the coolant reservoir and the radiator. Your radiator is divided into two parts. Coolant flows in the large main section. The transmission has lines that connect to one side of the radiator. The radiator is separated internally. This separation will develop a leak that allows the transmission oil to seep into the main part of the radiator. This is not uncommon in an older car. Don't drive it like this. Your transmission and coolant will both run hotter than normal. Get the coolant system pressure checked as suggested. Also pull the engine oil dipstick and the oil fill cap. Look for any light colored froth or slime. That is a sign of coolant in the engine oil from a head gasket or worse. If the coolant and radiator system check fine, then you would have a leak-down test done on the engine. That would find any issues with the heads or gaskets. At this point, that sounds unlikely. One step at a time.

+1 The Journey does not tolerate a battery at less than full charge very well and will do all sorts of weird things. I found that out the hard way. Always start there.

Welcome to the forum. Yes, the Journey is the kind of vehicle that grows on you as you realize how well things are thought out. It also has plenty of room for bagpipes, golf clubs, and steins.

If the manufacturer of the software could not help you, I would not presume to second guess them. As no one here or there knows the answer to your question, perhaps you can be the first to tackle the issue, as many here have done. Then you can come back and post your results so that you are helping others in the future. The best part of this forum are those who solve a problem and then share the solution with others. Good luck.

I never saw the post as I am not here everyday so I did not answer either. I'm curious though, in the 3 weeks between the 1st and the 2nd post by the OP, was any attempt made to contact UConnect directly and ask of those who would know best? Seems like that would have been the best resource for a speedy and accurate answer.

^^^ What he said - in spades

Take it to any auto parts store and they should be able to tell you the age (it should be on the battery) and they can test it. You also want to have the alternator load tested. An auto parts store will likely do this for free because they want to sell you a battery. Alternately, you can have a shop do it and the cost should be small. The reason to start here is there are many cases, as documented on this forum, of weak batteries causing all kinds of weird electrical symptoms and throwing a wide variety of codes. Your problems are pretty wide spread but it is the simplest and easiest place to start.

Hope the surgery goes (has gone) well. When the PT time comes you will likely get that rush of "they are all looking at the old weakling" feeling. Take a deep breath, suck it up, and do everything they tell you to do. They are professionals and they will see you from that standpoint. You're hurt and they are there because helping you is what they have chosen to do. Good luck and keep on