Summer Solstice

I will agree with what the salesperson has told you. My Journey does this if you only try to roll down the back windows. My Chevy Impala does the same thing and so did the Ford Marquis that I had. It is something that I do not remember being a problem on older cars but I have experienced it across different brands over the last dozen years. Its irritating and disappointing but it is not a fault of the vehicle. It is, in my experience, a common problem. With the Journey, I use the auto climate control and have been quite happy, once I have learned it's idiosyncrasies.

What NavalLacrosse has mentioned has been my experience also. The battery in my 2016 went bad at only 2 years old. With a bad cell the car could be jumped and driven but it would not restart. The dash gave all kinds of errors and lights and I thought the worst also. The Journey, being the modern electronic marvel that it is exhibits all kinds of weird symptoms with a weak battery. It is not your father's Dodge. Have your battery tested at any auto parts store for free. A trusted mechanic may even test the battery for free. As for DodgeCares, I understand your frustration but to lash out at someone who offered help, and gave you the choice to take it, is not going to help you get your problem resolved. Check the battery first and go from there. Good luck.

The problem that the OP, and all of the symptoms, sounds exactly like a situation that I had with a Grand Marquis. The car blew the temp sensor out of the plastic manifold while on the freeway. I was within a mile of the Ford dealer and coasted in. Plastic intake replaced but misfire and overheating continued. Another shop changed coils. Overheating and pressure continued, along with a misfire. Before I was done, both shops had diagnosed the problem again. The dealer pressure tested the coolant system and determined that the radiator had a pin hole leak. This did not explain the excess pressure to me, nor the lack of a real leak so I declined replacement. The other shop did a leak down and compression check and ruled out the head and gasket. No exhaust gases either. The car continued to overhead and misfire after it warmed up but not before. I never found the problem and replaced the vehicle with the Journey. My suspicion was that a cracked or warped head, or a bad gasket, was allowing a pin sized leak only after the engine was warm. Once the vehicle warmed up, it would overhead and the pressure in the coolant system would build until the coolant was expelled from the radiator cap. Sorry I don't have a solution but only a guess. In my case, it made more sense to cut my losses, which were considerable at this point. Good luck.

If the battery was the original at 2014 it was not a bad idea to change it anyway. Checking the alternator correctly would be the next step. If the alternator and the battery are both good, but the battery is draining, you may have a parasitic draw. Plenty of threads on here about that kind of problem. Also go over ALL of your connections for corrosion, including grounds and at the fuse box.

The 3.6L was one of the deciding factors for settling on the Journey. It remains one of the things that I most like about it. It is smooth and quite during normal operation but has the power to move with authority when needed. The competition that I test drove had 4 cylinders with no 6 as an offering. The result was a rougher idle and noisier operation. The trade-off was better economy. The Journey 2.4L offers no such benefit. The real killer here is a 4 speed transmission that is years behind the competition. Other vehicles, including FCA offerings, are at 8-10 speeds now. I wonder if FCA, being basically foreign based, is moving to offer an electric version in the future? Don't know but glad I have the warranty on this one. I plan to drive it for years to come.

Makes me think that they are trying to push people toward the Durango, which has not been meeting sales expectations. There are still 2018 models on the lot. I agree, it's a shame. A 2.4L with a 4 speed? That does not even make sense to be the only offering in this day and age. I sure would not buy one with all of the competition out there now.

I ran across this video. There are often questions from forum residents about the MAP sensor. This video goes into nice detail about how it works and how it is affected by various conditions. Pt1 and Pt.2 amounts to about 40 minutes. This is a general instructional video and is not Journey specific.

Welcome to our little piece of blacktop. Hope you enjoy yours as much as I have.

I am no (professional) mechanic so I am just throwing out ideas. 1st, I agree that if the timing was off it would show all the time. As it always runs fine once started until it is shut off I am thinking not a mechanical issue as opposed to an electronic issue. A scrambled instruction such as a computer malfunction or a sensor. If it was a wiring problem it might be intermittent but not so controlled by circumstance. I'm thinking an incorrect signal is being sent on startup from a misread or malfunctioning sensor. Maybe even a poor or corroded connection that interferes with a start up instruction only. Again, just my two cents and pennies aren't even copper anymore.

Where is my watch? Has anyone seen my watch?

/\ What he said.

I wonder if something on the mechanical key lock stuck and disabled the electronic feature temporally? A spring loaded mechanism possibly. Most of us with the newer push start and FOBs will never use the mechanical key lock. On the other hand, as with all things computer, it may have just needed to be fully cycled by actually starting and driving before some electronic confusion was cleared. These newer electronic gizmos with have occasional confusion fits as man attempts to create them in his own image.

I've had my 2016 R/T for 32000 miles and have been very happy with it. It just turned over 50K miles. I have been planning to write a lengthy review of my experience with it once I hit that mark. Stay tuned. I may actually get around to doing it one day. Maybe.

Well, now you gone and done it. Watch your bills. Doctor may try to upsell you on "recommended" services that you don't need. Thanks for the update. Hope all goes well.

Yes, get it reflashed.

2017? Is it still under warranty? It would seem that if no warranty, you have found the place to start in the other thread that you posted this problem too. I would be inclined to start with what has worked for others as posted in that thread.

Is P301 the only code you are getting? A short term rough idle at start up may be the result of the throttle not working correctly while cold. It is common for a sensor to fail, something that controls cold idle like a MAS or MAP sensor. During the summer months, cold idle will only last a very brief time before the RPM's drop to idle and the engine smooth's out. If one of the sensors are bad, the cold idle would be rough. In cold weather, this condition may last a couple of minutes.

Hopefully your Journey is on the road to recovery.

If you had heat before the leak but not now it is hoped it is just an air bubble. It is a common problem on any car. You need to note if both heater lines are hot to know if you have flow. Then we can try to determine if it is air or something more serious. If it is air, you may be able to force it out by squeezing the inlet line and pushing the bubble thru. Remove the radiator cap and watch for bubbles and a declining level.

It's not unusual to trap air in the heater core. When filling the system, run the heat on full and make sure to feel both heater lines to make sure they reach the same temperature.

Sounds like you have an air bubble in the system. That is a common problem when doing a complete flush and refill.

Welcome to the forum.

A dealership or body shop should be able to tell you. The salvage yard should also have a database of parts that are compatible across years and models of vehicles.