Summer Solstice

Welcome to our little piece of blacktop. Hope you enjoy yours as much as I have.

I am no (professional) mechanic so I am just throwing out ideas. 1st, I agree that if the timing was off it would show all the time. As it always runs fine once started until it is shut off I am thinking not a mechanical issue as opposed to an electronic issue. A scrambled instruction such as a computer malfunction or a sensor. If it was a wiring problem it might be intermittent but not so controlled by circumstance. I'm thinking an incorrect signal is being sent on startup from a misread or malfunctioning sensor. Maybe even a poor or corroded connection that interferes with a start up instruction only. Again, just my two cents and pennies aren't even copper anymore.

Where is my watch? Has anyone seen my watch?

/\ What he said.

I wonder if something on the mechanical key lock stuck and disabled the electronic feature temporally? A spring loaded mechanism possibly. Most of us with the newer push start and FOBs will never use the mechanical key lock. On the other hand, as with all things computer, it may have just needed to be fully cycled by actually starting and driving before some electronic confusion was cleared. These newer electronic gizmos with have occasional confusion fits as man attempts to create them in his own image.

I've had my 2016 R/T for 32000 miles and have been very happy with it. It just turned over 50K miles. I have been planning to write a lengthy review of my experience with it once I hit that mark. Stay tuned. I may actually get around to doing it one day. Maybe.

Well, now you gone and done it. Watch your bills. Doctor may try to upsell you on "recommended" services that you don't need. Thanks for the update. Hope all goes well.

Yes, get it reflashed.

2017? Is it still under warranty? It would seem that if no warranty, you have found the place to start in the other thread that you posted this problem too. I would be inclined to start with what has worked for others as posted in that thread.

Is P301 the only code you are getting? A short term rough idle at start up may be the result of the throttle not working correctly while cold. It is common for a sensor to fail, something that controls cold idle like a MAS or MAP sensor. During the summer months, cold idle will only last a very brief time before the RPM's drop to idle and the engine smooth's out. If one of the sensors are bad, the cold idle would be rough. In cold weather, this condition may last a couple of minutes.

Hopefully your Journey is on the road to recovery.

If you had heat before the leak but not now it is hoped it is just an air bubble. It is a common problem on any car. You need to note if both heater lines are hot to know if you have flow. Then we can try to determine if it is air or something more serious. If it is air, you may be able to force it out by squeezing the inlet line and pushing the bubble thru. Remove the radiator cap and watch for bubbles and a declining level.

It's not unusual to trap air in the heater core. When filling the system, run the heat on full and make sure to feel both heater lines to make sure they reach the same temperature.

Sounds like you have an air bubble in the system. That is a common problem when doing a complete flush and refill.

Welcome to the forum.

A dealership or body shop should be able to tell you. The salvage yard should also have a database of parts that are compatible across years and models of vehicles.

I purchased my 2016 at Lafontaine in Fenton, MI two years ago. The sales experience was lackluster, to say the least. The people were very nice and always tried their best but the system tended to let them, and me, down. There were numerous occasions where the ball was dropped and I had to come back the next day. Once I had the vehicle, I began to use their service department. Again, the experience was lackluster. There was more effort put into upselling "recommended" services than just taking care of the issues. The last service visit was for a warranty repair. While waiting for the part and a loaner vehicle to become available I was encouraged to get the "recommended" service 6 times via email, letters, and phone. A year and a half later, I'm still waiting on the warranty part and loaner. After that experience, I took the Journey to Al Deeby in Clarkston, MI. I was in and out in 1.5 hours with diagnostic and repair complete. No hassles, no upsell. I have used them for routine service since with absolutely no problems. They take care of the scheduled service and never push for a "recommended" upcharge. I am very happy with the service department so far and will continue to use them until that changes. It's all about the trust.

Have FCA Canada explain to you what the R65 means. They are the ones that suggested this course of action. I would want a clear understanding of the cause and fix before I hand over $1000.00 and a guaranty that it is going to solve the problem. If their advise is worth $1000.00 then the explanation should be too.

@jkeaton Ask a moderator to move this to the correct section.

I had to replace the batteries in two key fobs that were only 2 years old. They still did not work. I got some good quality, name brand (the others were too) batteries and now they work like a champ. The lesion was that the fobs may not like certain brands even though the batteries are new. Why? I don't know. Some small issue with fit maybe but the new ones have been in almost a year now.

Here is the winning number. XXXXXX I x'd it out so no one else would get it.

Fuse boxes don't die. They have other problems but they don't die.

Here is the link to the thread that ^^^^^^ is referring too. Lots of good information but there was no concrete resolution.

I'm thinking that your suspicions are on the right track, given that the noise ceases when load is applied. My experience with dealers is that some are phenomenal while others should be avoided at all costs.