Summer Solstice

I have had good luck with batteries manufactured by East Penn. I sought them out after less than good results with Johnson Controls. Your MMV of course. As a side note...Johnson Controls sold their auto battery division to an investment group in May.

Tell us how you really feel.

I have had both a Dodge Journey and a subscription to Consumer Reports. I am very happy with the Journey and have no intention to replace it. I found the magazine to be clueless, unreliable, and biased. I dropped it years ago.

I would be curious as to a cost breakdown.

Your dealership parts counter will have all the correct part numbers that are compatible with your Journey. Ask the service manager why they used the smaller brakes.

Run, don't walk, back to the dealer. There has been a misunderstanding somewhere. They are obligated to show you how to use the features you bought. If they have misrepresentated the item for sale, or you misunderstood, most states give you a very narrow window to back out of the deal. Give them a chance to make it right.

Check your brakes also. The dealership here does not check the brakes as part of a routine oil change without tire rotation. They mark off the blue (N/A) spot on the inspection sheet. You may have a slight drag on a brake. The front should make the car pull to one side, even slightly. The rear will not show in driving if very light but it will wear the pads and rotors noticeably and drop gas mileage considerably.

Was the vibration there before you had the work done? What was mentioned above is good advice. I had two new tires and some front end work done on a different vehicle. Both the front end work and one of the new tires went bad. The tire had a bubble that caused vibration and was replaced. Once the vehicle was returned from the shop a second time, the vehicle had enormous torque steer that they told me was normal. It had 250.000 miles on it and had never done it before. Short story is I found that the 35lb max tire was inflated to 60lbs and I drove it like that for 2 months never thinking to check for that. Take it back to the shop and have them check their work. Check the tire pressures your self.

There is no separate fuse for the lift gate listed in the owner's manual. There is, however, a known and common issue with the wiring harness as it passes from the body to the lift gate. Perhaps there is a single wire issue there effecting your locks on the lift gate.

No specific links to just the pin and bushing kit. Local auto stores here have generic kits for $15 There is also Summit Racing and Rock Auto among others online to try. All else fails, the junkyard or the full hinge. Can't say what the price would be to buy from the US and ship to Canada. Did you check the local dealer or area body shops?

Search "hinge kit Dodge Journey" in Google. It will give you a number of hits including OEM from reliable sources.

Yes, time to take it to the dealer. You did not say if you actually checked all of the pulleys and the belt as suggested in one of the other two threads on this. If the power steering pump has failed, and if it is a recall, then time to call the dealer and find out what they are willing to do for you. Otherwise, you are going to have to crawl into the engine compartment. A tow to the dealer may save you money in the long run and will give you a definitive diagnosis. It is also the quickest way to the other side of this and will relieve the stress and speculation.

I see that this thread has been started in the wrong section. It will likely be shut down but you have already started a new thread in the right section. Good luck.

It was not sarcasm as the two units are completely independent of each other. The only thing that they would share is the belt, assuming that it is a singular serpentine belt. Check the belt on the drive side for heat scoring. Likely if a pulley seized the belt would have snapped but maybe not, yet.

It was not sarcasm as the two units are completely independent of each other. The only thing that they would share is the belt, assuming that it is a singular serpentine belt. Check the belt on the drive side for heat scoring. Likely if a pulley seized the belt would have snapped but maybe not, yet.

Most modern cars now are using Iridium plugs which have a longer life span. The 3.6L uses them. The 2.4L uses copper core so has a change interval same as cars of the past. Compared to the 3.6, the plugs are easy to change. You can try a more expensive plug. No harm but the cost.

I have heard direct horror stories of oil plugs not tightened and having come out. My own experience with the questionable (ie: fraudulent) upsell led me to avoid our quick change places. My wife used the local dealer for a while and then transferred to a trusted mechanic. I use a dealership for my Journey. The cost, over a year's time, is not that much more but having it done right, including the additional free inspection, is worth it to me. My days of wrenching are mostly over, by choice.

I have been very happy with my 2016. Good luck with yours and welcome to the forum.

That's an excellent price for just the battery given how the prices have gone up the last few years. The installation is just the icing on the cake, though I wonder if they knew before hand what a pain the DJ battery is. Not to worry for them as I assume they made it back while you were waiting in the checkout line.

If all of your stock speakers are working then we should be able to rule out the amp and the head unit. Now I would have to wonder about the wiring to and from the remote amp. Can you post a detailed picture of the amp showing all of the wiring and connections? You state that you have power to the amp so I am assuming that you are measuring the voltage that powers the amp. I am not understanding the reference to no power from amp to subs. Not being familiar with the equipment in question I am just thinking of general wiring configurations. What are you actually measuring between the amp and the subs? DC voltage would be very low between an amp and speakers in an audio configuration. Measuring ohms, you can check continuity from point to point for wiring or connection problems. Also check any fuses with a meter as sometimes a fuse can blow but still appear okay. Pictures may be helpful.

Look under any car past a few years old and you are likely to see at least one point of a very minor leak. It is a fact of life and not related to any particular brand. As I usually buy a newer vehicle around 3 years old, this is one of the things that I look for. Even then, it is somewhat difficult to find a perfectly clean vehicle underneath. As long as it is very minor, with no indication of even a drip on the floor, leave it IMO. If everything is operating correctly, just check the level, add any if necessary, and keep on driving. There is a very good chance that it is down barely at all. Consider it part of routine maintenance of an older vehicle to monitor any known leaks and address them when needed. You may never need too before the time comes to replace it. Just keep an eye on it periodically, depending on the amount of leakage.

If your hose is the original, and from 2011, it may be time to change it. Pull the hose from the thermostat, inspect the hose for a small perforation from the clamp. Use a flashlight, and a magnifying tool if you have one, and inspect the thermostat housing for a small hairline crack. It may have been over tightened. Once done, reinstall the hose and put on a new, quality clamp. Make sure to everything is seated correctly. If the leak persists, then you can contemplate a new hose and/or housing.

I bought my 2016 with 18000 miles on it. I negotiated two new tires to go on the rear. Ever since I bought it, it pulled ever so slightly to the left. I finally had a 4 wheel alignment done ($89.oo at the dealer). I also had the tires rotated so the newer ones were on the front. The older tires now had 25000 on them and had significant wear on the outside from the alignment being slightly off. Another 20000 miles and there has been no further wear. In the meantime, I did have a front rattle from a loose suspension part but at 45000 miles, the vehicle is still straight and the tires have no undue wear. It is my own opinion that the Journey may be knocked out of alignment fairly easy but I drive Michigan roads every day and have hit some significant pot holes with no aftereffects. If these roads don't destroy an alignment then I have to believe in the vehicle.