Summer Solstice

Here is a decent write up that explains what the Body Control Module (BCM) does and the symptoms a bad one may show. http://knowhow.napaonline.com/bad-body-control-module-heres-tell/ Along with the link provided by 2late4u above, putting "Dodge Journey BCM" into Google will give a number of vendor sources. Be sure to check if the module is preprogrammed to your specific vehicle as it will need to be.

Sorry to hear of the loss of your vehicle but sounds like it did right by you and you walked away okay? Buying a used Journey, with a very specific list of wants, may be time-consuming. I bought a 2016 in late 2017 after shopping for over a month to find the best fit for me. I am glad that I waited to get what I wanted but it did cost. During the shopping, I rented a 2017 Crossroad and ultimately bought a 2016 R/T. I can say they are different to me in the ride and handling, as they should be. The Crossroad was very smooth, handled very well, and was comfortable with the cloth seats. The R/T is a bit stiffer on the bumps and the steering, still a smooth ride overall, and corners better due to the stiffer suspension. The seats are leather and that took some getting used too as they are harder, at least in the beginning, and slicker, as leather tends to be. After a year of driving, I am very settled into it but I was also happy with the Crossroad. The difference was fairly stark in the beginning as I would test one and then go back to the other. Drive them both, if you can. I can say that I drove samples of each that had terrible rides and were noisy. I suspect these examples were poorly cared for by the previous owner. The one I bought was a very low mileage former lease vehicle, not a rental. They are popular as rentals but I would not consider one. As for a sunroof, of all the ones I looked at, I never saw one in this area with a sunroof. With a bad experience with a sunroof in the past, I was not in the market anyway.

Most states allow you to cancel a major purchase within a short period of time. If you are this unhappy, run, don't walk, and get your money back. You already have decided that the purchase was wrong for you. With a start like that, you will not be happy unless you cut now and move on.

I replaced a battery due to a bad cell. The symptoms, with all of the electronics, were all over the map, with different warning lights and odd behavior. It was a learning experience. Rule out the battery and the alternator first. It does sound like a wiring issue. On an older car, I would be looking for a bad ground and/or connection.

Given your location, do you have any snow or ice build up between the windshield and the hood? I have found that when ice gets down into this area, it makes a very annoying rattling, clunking sound that sounds like the dash / windshield juncture. It is quite irritating.

Agreed. The problem, as you describe it, is not the common issue that the early Journeys had with brakes to small and excessive wear. What you describe is a loss of pressure and / or fluid. This is not a common issue to the Journey anymore than other brands. The fact that "nobody seems to know what is wrong with it" is because you need a better mechanic to diagnose the problem. If you have air in the system, you have a leak. If you are losing fluid, you have a leak. If the fluid is good but the peddle is soft, you have a mechanical problem at the end of the system with the actual braking components. If the peddle is hard and will not go down, you have a sticking caliper or a cylinder / valve problem. All vehicles can have these issues. You need a qualified mechanic to start.

During this winter, all 3 of my fobs failed to work at the same time. This is a 2016 and two of the fobs are original with the 3rd coming with the vehicle when purchased used from the dealer. None of the fobs would work for any function no matter how far I was from the vehicle. Even standing next too, or sitting in the vehicle. The door handle would work fine and the vehicle would start when pressing the fob to the start button on the dash. This would only happen when the temperature was 0 degrees F or lower. The car battery is less than a year old and was changed by the dealer under warranty. During this last cold blast, I would even get the "key not detected" error on the dash but the vehicle would still start fine. Naturally, I was leaning toward thinking that it was a receiver problem. Before going all in I decided to change the batteries in two of the fobs with a good quality, name brand. Bingo! Everything works fine now, even from inside the house and close to 10 degrees below F. I would not have thought that all 3 batteries would fail to work, at the same time, under the same conditions, at just 3 years of age. This is just a note to anyone having a similar problem to try the simple first, even when it just doesn't seem right.

Agree with 2late4u. Most of my vehicles have had this problem in very cold weather. The Journey is actually not too bad but I always use the defrost vent / floor setting for just this reason. Anything else and the side windows will begin to fog around the edges. The problem is worse if your door and window seals have any air leaks. Clean and treat the seals as part of your normal vehicle maintenance.

In the States, we have Mopar.com where we can set up an account. It is the official Mopar owner's site that allows you to track your vehicle by VIN #. You can see all of the service records from the dealer or those you enter yourself. You can also see what your warranty is specific to that VIN # and a listing of recalls. You may be able to access something similar where you are even if the brand is no longer sold there. Try a Google search.

I've been having this same common issue in my 2016, which is not listed in the TSB. It only shows up in this sub-zero weather. Fortunately, if it poses a problem, I am covered under warranty.

Welcome to Dodge World from the State Of Michigan, USA

The wiring harness that runs from the main body roof to the top of the hatch gate is a known issue. Check the harness for fraying and breaks in the individual wires. There are numerous threads on here with others having problems with this harness.

Did you check the horn itself?

If picking up the extra factory warranty, spend a little time reviewing all of the options available. I see that there is less than $100 difference between a 7 year/125000 mile and a 7 year/unlimited mile. $100.00 deductible. Choose what makes the most sense to you. There are also a couple of other dealers offering internet sales on the warranty program. In the end, I went with one in Kansas that saved a couple of hundred dollars at the time. Nice looking vehicle. I hope you are as happy with this one as I have been with mine.

You've got a 2018 still under warranty? Take it back to the dealer and tell them that answer is absolutely unacceptable. Have them go with you for a drive in both yours and a new one on the lot and have them prove that they all do it. My 2016 does not, except for a very negligible sound that any vehicle would make. The fact that it drives so quiet is one reason I bought it. At about the 28000 mile mark, it developed a significant rattle in the front when going over bumps. One dealer diagnosed the problem correctly but the service was dismal and the repair never took place. I took it to another dealer, with no mention of the previous visit, and drove it out 1.5 hours later with the same diagnosis and fully repaired. In this case, it was the sway bar link on the left side. As I drove away, I had truly forgotten how quiet it was supposed to be. It was, and still is, a pleasure to drive again. Be reasonable but DO NOT accept a BS response if there is a real problem.

Take it in ASAP, have the system properly diagnosed by a trusted mechanic, and get it repaired. The stuff used is intended as a short-term, temporary fix at best. Many, including myself, would not use it but I certainly understand your situation. Just follow thru immediately, get the vehicle repaired properly, and make sure the garage understands your concerns and flushes the entire system.

I will not speculate directly on the construction of the Journey as I am unfamiliar with it but, in general, vehicles do indeed have hidden channels for drainage. The filling of these channels in the front area of the windshield will often lead to water entering the vehicle as you describe. Debris from leaves, trees, and whatnot will clog the entrance of the channel causing water to back up and enter the vehicle in through other areas. The heater inlet is a common spot for back up water to enter. Maybe someone here can give a better vehicle specific answer on where the drainage channels are. Talking to someone familiar with body work may also help.

First thing is to check the coolant level. Hopefully, it is low from a simple leak, such as a hose. That is the easiest fix in the long run but you do not want to drive if you do not have enough and/or the leak is bad. Adding water, for a short distance drive, is not a problem as long as you pay attention to the temperature. Take a few minutes under the hood and look around for evidence of an external leak and do check the oil, as JackB03 suggested, just in case. Look for any pooled coolant on exposed surfaces or evidence of flowing water in the dust and dirt under the hood. The hoses, especially around the clamps at the end, are the most common failure points. Did you notice any steam or the smell of coolant before shutting it down? Beyond that, you are entering into the realm of more extensive repairs, such as a radiator or water pump, best diagnosed in a better sitting than a parking lot at a hotel. If the coolant is not low, the next question is did it really overheat or were you getting false signals from a bad sensor? No point in speculating or worrying further until the simple and more likely is ruled out. If in doubt, a tow is cheaper, less hassle, and the pain subsides much quicker than the alternative. Good luck.

I have had to do the same one time in the last year. The pairing had become corrupted and needed to be redone. Much like rebooting a computer occasionally.

An update: I have reloaded the flash drive and am now running 68GB of Mp3 files. The flash drive is a 128GB drive and the default format is exFAT. All I did was delete all of the existing music files and left the drive operating files intact. I then reloaded all the files from a copy that I keep on a home drive. I do have the music divided by genre and album titles. I maintain a lossless format of all of my digital music at home and also keep a Mp3 copy of everything in a separate file for easy transfer to a portable drive. When I add something to the existing files, I also make a copy in Mp3 format and add that to a separate file for future transfer to the portable drive. The browse and search functions on the Journey make it easy to recall anything that I may be in the mood for. No more cassettes for me. Now all I need to do is convert the vinyl and put one of the tube consoles in the car.

You may consider doing the prepaid dealer oil changes. I can prepay for 2 dealer oil changes with synthetic oil, for $40.00 each. This includes tire rotation. I can also go thru the Mopar website and prepay for 4 oil changes, with regular oil, for $28.00 each. No tire rotation. I have not changed the oil myself in the Journey but it is supposed to be incredibly easy. However, given the time spent on labor, buying oil, and disposing of said oil, I have opted to let the dealer handle this vehicle. I also get a vehicle inspection and a maintenance record for any warranty issues. That, in addition to the fact that I am just tired of working on vehicles, makes the dealer offer worth it to me. YMMV. The biggest issue is whether you have a dealer local that you wish to interact with.

Out of curiosity, I did a Google search and found this on the Jeep Off Road Adventures forum: "MS-6395 (Material Standards 6395), is a motor oil certification issued by Chrysler and per page 108 of the 2013 JK Wrangler User's Guide is the recommended fill for the 3.6L Pentastar engine. A good number of oils meet MS-6395 but surprisingly Mobil-1 is not among them." Whether or not that still holds true today it is a good example to always check the Owner's Manual and follow the recommendations of the manufacturer.

Enjoy your families today and everyday. Bring a smile to those in need. Merry Christmas.

Here is a related thread. The issue did get resolved. Persistence was key but style of approaching the dealer matters too.

+1. When I questioned the fuel tank gage level and the mpg readout, the dealer replied that they are estimates only. I find them both to be reliable enough but the mpg can fluctuate depending on all the conditions that 2late4u stated above. The only reliable way to track mileage is the hard math way and being able to compare to past performance. This is not a bad idea in any vehicle from time to time. Then you have a reliable baseline. As the average comes back to normal with driving I would not be concerned, at the moment, and continue to watch it. Do check your tire pressures as winter cold will cause them to drop more than people realize.