Summer Solstice

I did two things and have never had a dead battery since.
 
1. I disconnected the plug at the back of the radio.
 
2. I pulled the light bulb out of the glove box.
 
While the radio was pulled I noticed the light on in the glove box through a hole only visible with the radio out.
 
The heavy, thick owners manual kept the glove box door tilted out activating the plunger switch to turn the light on.
 
The bulb must be pulled as it appears this miniature bulb is not on the interior lamps circuit but separate.
 
NOTE:
 
The problem most certainly is in the glove box door switch and possibly not the radio.
 
But I wasn't going to connect the radio back up and have another dead battery as it was the middle of winter when I solved this.
 
Had I not seen the glove box light on while the radio was out I would never have solved the problem.
 
Once again pulling your interior lamps fuse may not solve the problem. Pull the bulb and be done with it.
 

first off you didnt say this to begin with, you just stated your problem then blamed dodge for it. I wasnt trying to be rude, i offered some solutions to your problem as well

Welcome aboard!
 
This is the way others see us Dodge Journey drivers

 
This is the way we see ourselves. 

Welcome aboard!
 
This is the way others see us Dodge Journey drivers

 
This is the way we see ourselves. 

Hi, I have a 2013 Dodge Journey and absolutely hate the feature that stops the engine at red lights. I do not see a button to turn this off, only the START/STOP button to start the engine. Where is the button to turn this feature off, or how do I turn it off?
Thanks!

Steady drip on daughter in laws 2012 Journey with the 2.4 engine, 115k kms on car.  It has the orange long life glycol, decided to just replace it all at the same time, still appears pretty clean but it is close to the ten year mark. Drip is on the side of the cylinder head right where one of the thermostats is mounted.
Purchased the whole assembly with new thermostats, large o ring for rear inlet pipe included, made by Gates. It didn’t have the temp sensor o ring, but I have an o ring assortment set that had the correct replacement. The cooling manifold is held to the intake head by three 13 mm bolts, torque spec is 89in pounds.
Installed new parts and seemed ok for one day then a drip came back. This time it was the square return gasket beside thermostat, it was new and installed on the Gates replacement assembly. Checked bolt torque and it was very close, decided to remove and inspect all gaskets.
The new assembly when being installed didn’t dry fit in place as easily as the used original part, doesn’t sit flush to head with 20 pounds hand pressure. Moved all gaskets over to the old original plastic assembly and reinstalled it. No leak now for several days now. Not a difficult repair, just messy with glycol. Never had an issue with Gates replacement parts before,  it seems cheaper made than the factory part. Metal grommets instead of copper, thinner flanges on secondary thermostat housing, stud mounts flimsy. 
 

 

i doubt it as the journey is really not a towing vehicle,you might find something by calling some camper stores or handicap vehicles shops  

For $55k you could keep a couple of spare Journeys in the driveway... just in case.
 

With 186K MILES now on our 2011, the last "snafu" of the radio causing a short and keeping the dash lit up was annoying to find the cause, but EASY to fix(another radio that's plug and play). STILL really like the car for what it is, even though the gamble we took on buying it with a possible dying trans did bite us. I can't speak as nicely to MANY GM models as was posted prior here. ALL cars have their own "special quirks"!

Also, If you're not big into repairing vehicles, you may want to consider having a reputable shop do a full systems scan(and not just OBD11 engine/trans codes). This will give you stronger "footing" on how to proceed in finding the problem.

?

Update: the dealership initially thought it was the body module.  However after further inspection, they ended up  reconfiguring the computer in the car. I have no idea what caused this. The hubby forgot to ask when he picked it up but it is running now. 

New cooler is in and car is running.  Yipee.
I'll drive it a bit more tomorrow and check for new leaks.
 
Barring any troubles, so far I'll call this a day and a half project.
 
2 things I learned that I didn't notice in videos:
- The size of the inverted torx socket needed for the bolts on the oil cooler is an E8.  Murphy's law - I didnt have this size and had to run out and get one.
- After reassembly and starting the engine for the first time, the oil pressure shot to 90 (H) and stayed there.  I was worried.  I checked the new oil filter to make sure it was wet to somewhat confirm oil was circulating, and it was.  When first leaving the driveway, the pressure went up to 92, then dropped to 88.  At least electrically it was working, versus a disconnected or shorted wire.  Then it started to fluctuate downward to normal.  Whew.  My guess is it had to recalibrate?  (Or maybe I never notice what the oil pressure is when the engine is first started.)
 
 
 
 

please report back on what they find out for others that might have the same problem. good luck

My apologies.  We did try jumping it. Nothing happened. We were finally able to get to the battery today to do a static discharge and again, nothing. Someone We know contacted a service manager at a local dodge dealership, they said something about a module? (Forgive me, I know nothing about mechanics. I'm just trying to help the hubby figure out what's going on) which I believe is the push start component?? I am not sure. Tomorrow, the car will be getting towed to the dealer for diagnostic and hopefully repair. 

I started the oil cooler replacement this afternoon.  I got the old one out, sucked up the pools of oil, and cleaned the intake surfaces on the engine. 
The sun has gone down and the temps have cooled off.  I'm done for the evening.
So far the worst has been unlocking and unplugging the electrical connectors on the fuel injectors.  This took several trips back to watch YouTube videos and a few prayers to not break a connector.  
 
Tomorrow I'll start with cleaning the underside of the lower intake, replace those gaskets, then assemble everything back together.
Add fluids, pray again, then start'er up.

I need to rewatch videos for adding back the antifreeze and letting the air out.
 
 

Well, if it’s running it should throw a code.  The code should point where to look.  Yes mice,etc love to chew on wires.  Glad things are looking up!  I would still complain about the dealer. They never should have given you the car in limp mode.....

i would replace your battery as it is at least 3 yrs old and even tho it test good, journeys like a strong battery, my last battery wouldn't start the journey and  I called a tow truck as the neighbors jump start unit wouldn't start it either, so the tow truck guy got here and checked it out  and said well before  i load it let me try my jump pack which he had a professional unit and the journey cranked right up and i took it down the street to a local garage and they checked the battery and said well it testing low but still good,,i said hell no put in a new one....as well my lights and other things in the journey worked as well before getting the jump......

So after replacing the upper idler and the pulley on the tensioner but not the tensioner it's self, the noise remains. 

Here's a link to you tube of the belts spinning away while the car idles. From both the video, and just looking at the belt with my eyes I see no lateral wobble. 


when I spray WD40 on the belt the noise goes away for about 10 minutes then it returns. Once the engine is warm, the noise goes away at idle but any revving above idle makes the squeak return. 

There seems to be a subtle difference when the A/C (?) compressor engages... but I'm thinking that's not the cause.

I'm thinking its worth it to just buy another new belt, maybe the el-cheapo I got is what's causing the noise. I'll check out the Gate Micro V, or just other well ranked belts.
 

I hear ya, our 2012 SXT has treated us well, wife is saying I should look at another vehicle now that we have 125,000 kms (78,00 miles) on her. Other than routine things like brakes, tires, plugs and trans flush the only other things changed were hub bearings, thermostat and heater core. Plenty of road trips to ball tournaments loaded with team gear over the years for sure, those scratches on the bumper plate always make me smile. ( always told the players lift the bags don't just pull LOL ). Our journey has treated us well, its a tough call put new tires on her or, trade her in in the next 3-4 months. Hope your car continues to treat you as well as mine did, thanks for reminding me Armando G.

Well, my journey with my Journey 'payments' comes to an end. Today I made my final payment on my DJ, and it felt great. From not knowing these vehicles whatsoever, to spotting one while shopping for a car 5 years ago, it's been a great decision overall. We're just a touch over 70k and the DJ has been great for the family. Moving away from a minivan and still having the third row option at this price point was a big reason I went with this car. Five years later the kids (4) are almost all driving their own cars and not joining us in our long trips as much. The last time I used that third row was over a year ago, but I still see all the kids in the rearview mirror every once in a while.
 
Anyway, other than a warranty trannie issue this thing has been great. Regular maintenance and tires have been the only expense and it is still running strong. I ponder getting another car (Jeep, Durango, or Colorado) every once in a while, but I still enjoy driving my DJ. I've enjoyed this forum and can't believe I've been on here for 5 years. 
 
Here's to another 5 years - with no issues!!!   
 

So how can we assist you? You only stated of having it towed, has anything been diagnosed like the state of the car battery and charging system? Some specifics like how long is recently purchased and miles on the DJ would be helpful for further assistance from fellow Journey owners here.

My 2.4 liter 2013 with 80K got the P2173 HIGH AIRFLOW/VACUUM LEAK DETECTED (SLOW ACCUMULATION)
I ran a smoke test and no leaks from the intake or any hose, I replaced the Throttle body and the code return, I replaced the Mass sensor and the code return, I replaced the Brake booster and calibrated the Throttle body and the code return after 3 weeks, finally I decide to change the intake manifold gasket 2 months ago, so far it looks that is fixed for good, I found the old gasket was leaking between two cylinders thus the reason the smoke test did not work, to any one with this code I suggest to replace the gasket first, is only $6.00. The P2173 will put he car in limp mode and make it undriveable 

Thought I saw something on this site about how to re-calibrate actuators....do a search here or google that.if these do not work. Here are copies and pasts from another thread.
 
 
      Posted June 30, 2020 found this on goggle dont know if it really works ..good luck...............
Blend Door Actuator Motor Calibration
Turn ignition key to the on position and turn on the HVAC system. Move the key to the off position. Open hood (bonnet for the RHD guys) and locate fuse #15 in the fuse box next to the battery. Remove the fuse and wait 1-2 minutes for any capacitive charges in the system to dissipate. Replace the fuse. Turn the ignition key to the on position. You can now watch the motors move as the system goes through the calibration routine. Leave the key on for a couple of minutes to make sure that the calibration routine is completed before turning it off. You will also be able to hear additional activity as all the doors and fan speed are calibrated. You may have to run the cal routine a couple of times to get the system back to full functionality. If the position of the new door is significantly different from the point at failure, the system will successively move toward the new correct position setting. It may take two or three cycles for the system to move to the correct position.
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  Report post     Posted June 30, 2020 THank you. I also had seen this when scouring for information but it seemed like it applied to too many vehicles to be real. I guess I'll have to give it a try anyway! Thanks!
Report post     Posted June 30, 2020 hope it works and maybe some one else will chime in on this,it has been discussed quite a bit on replacing one but cant remember anyone talking about it had to be calibrated
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Report post     Posted June 30, 2020 Following up here. I think this is the easiest way to "calibrate" the new actuator manually:
 
Connect the actuator to the power connector, and just let it hang loosely. Turn on the car. Turn the heat all the way up on the climate control. This will trigger the actuator to go to "hot". Manually figure out how the blend door arm needs to be do deliver hot air (the arm needs to be all the way up and you can use your hand to get it there). Turn the car off. You now know that the climate control, the actuator and the air door are set to "hot". The arm connected to the actuator itself will need some guess and check to make sure that its in the up- most position when you install it and tighten the three screws. Once installed, turn the car back on and slowly turn the heat down to test the placement of the actuator arm. Once turned all the way down to cool, the cool air should be coming from the vents. There's probably a way that the dealership could have done this electronically, but this worked fine for me. I hope it helps someone else.
 
Thank you!
 
 
 

That makes sense. Went to bleed it and subsequently broke the bleeder valve so part of it is out and part is in the thermostat. This day is going awesomely.