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NavalLacrosse

Journey Member
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NavalLacrosse last won the day on December 4 2018

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About NavalLacrosse

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  • Region
    U.S. Great Lakes
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  1. Oil types, viscosity and oil pressure

    Use the oil that the car needs (in your case 6 quarts 5W-20). There is no cost difference for using 20 vs 30... so why risk excessive wear and drive-train-warranty killing oil for ... tradition? These engines in modern cars are tested, and engineered to run with their specific oils- at high temp and low temps. If the engine is "Damn cold", (-40F polar vortex) then let it run for a minute or two before auto-crossing it. The oil pump is driven by the engine. More revs=more pressure. Lastly, I use Full-Synthetic every time. My 2011 (3.6 v6) takes 5W-30 (surprisingly, different from yours) per the manufactures requirements. I see the $10-$20 more per 7000 miles worth it to delay an engine failure till the next owner buys it. I daily drive the aggressive poop out of my family crossover in metro-detroit traffic- so I think the extra 'protection' is needed.
  2. For me, changing the battery was all I needed. I had Goodyear do it for 135 dollars. Totally worth it. The failed battery was causing the gremlins to come out. The new battery solved my issues.... Good luck OP
  3. How often to wash?

    If I chose to buy a wash plan, I'd make sure the facilities are to my liking, meaning minimal risk of scratching. (There's a place near my work that uses vehicle-contacting blower ducts to dry. I'm not going there ever again for fear of scratches) I know a guy who has the Meijer (Walmart-esq Supermarket chain) unlimited wash card. He washed is car every other day... and when it snowed, he'd just scrape the front window then he'd run the car through the wash to de-ice the rest on the way in to work. As far as me? I'd wash it probably every three or four days. One personal feeling I have towards any monthly paid service: If i'm paying for it, I'll utilize the crap out of it!
  4. Newbie

    Welcome, I've got the 2011 Crew. Got a good deal on mine. Me and the Lady have driven it from 33k to 65k miles. A grand total of $600 of repairs since it was bought 1.5 years ago (Brakes pads, rotors, and two new batteries) (It would have been one new battery had i spend more than $60 replacing the first one.) How many miles do you have, OP?
  5. 1 week, and no issues. I suspect the root cause of the issue remains- but as I've not had any issues yet, I'll continue to live in a fool's bliss. Fob transmits at a great range still... but I'll replace the battery anyway soon. I read in some outside forum that this was an indicator of a greater problem in the computer. I've not been able to dig up that forum post since reading it the first time. I read the manual, and now obvious to me in retrospect, the red light is simply the security arming. Thanks for the reassurance anyway!
  6. Tools explained

    Add: The [any number] mm socket. It's the tool you assumed your 52pc ratched set had.... But seemingly didn't include.
  7. Performance upgrades

    OP, like many others, have the hope of getting that extra kick out of their DJ. I've not seen anyone actually do it. My personal take on it is, sadly, is the DJ is a family runabout crossover. It's purpose was to replace the short-bed caravan. The V-6 isn't slow, but isn't quick either.... I've accepted the fact I bought a minivan(DJ) and not a R/T charger. And, for what it's worth- Welcome to the forms! Check out the performance section of the forums for ideas. There's been a lot a very determined people attempting to make their DJ faster.
  8. Update 1, Took the car to Goodyear, outside of work. Guys tested the alternator and say it's good (holding 14 volts) they say the battery health was poor. They suspect parasite drain. $169 parts and labor I now have a new battery. Cars running and driving like it should.... ... But, New developments: All systems function, but one warning "key battery low". This is a new development. I don't think it's actually low but I'll change it anyway. I read somewhere that this was another sign of trouble... Additionally (and this could be me being paranoid) when I leave and lock The car, the red round light on the dash (thieft light?) blinks. I've never seen/noticed this before, or at least seen it blink so predominantly during locking. Twice a second untill the headlight time out, and the reduce to one blink per two seconds.... Does anyone know what could be causing the low key battery warning, presuming Its not really a low key battery issue and is a false reading? Does anyone else no what the normal blinking pattern is for the red light in the dash when locking and leaving the car? Side note, picked up a cheap jump pack from Walmart. Never again will I use an Uber... Who am I kidding; I own an FCA. My primary mode of transit is whatever my Uber drives...
  9. no, there is no power to disengage the parking gear lockout- or turn the wheel- (when it's jumped, I can turn it, change gears, ect.) I have towing included with my insurance, so i'm thinking of giving it to Dodge's service dept. to figure it out at my expense.... I've read about others having this problem on the road, and when the power dies, the steering lock engages... holy crap!, I hop that doesn't happen to me even.
  10. Concise version: Car sits outdoors for 2 weeks. Temps outside are 32F. No electric power, no unlock, no dome lights, obviously no cranking power. 1) Ask for jump, successfully cranked the car. All systems running normal while connected to the jumper's car's power. 2) disconnect jumpers after about 30 seconds. 3) 15 seconds of normal operation, then overhead lights pulse on-off-on-off twice a second, radio on off, some warning lights on-off (mainly traction control, tire pressure) then engine stalls- zero electric power (dome lights dead), and tachometer is stuck at last reading 1,500 RPM (What i was Reving-to hoping to keep the power flowing, stepper motors didn't have power to return the tach to zero). 4) jump again. instantly, on jumper's power, gauges return to zero, and the car systems are restored to normal operation while on jumper. Crank engine, starts no issue. All systems normal. 5) removed jumpers, systems function properly for 15 seconds, then same as before, pulsing overhead lights, some lights on dash, 15 more seconds the engine stalls, tach and fuel gauge frozen (steppers without power) my troubleshooting: voltage at the under-hood battery mains while connected to the car: 0.3v. I disconnect the negative terminal here, and test the the neg-to-pos voltage: 3.4v. Note, battery is 3 months old. Hypothisis: 1) Terminals corroded (I'll freeze my butt off, but i'll check this next) 2) Bad battery temp sensor. No idea how to diagnose. 3) Bad Alternator (and dead/depleted batt.) Coming home from my wonderful tropical vacation to see my Wife in Brazil, I get home and rush to get to work the same day... only to call in an tell them my dodge wouldn't start. I work at GM, so they gave me a hard time, but understood that as I am driving a FCA product, there is an understanding that occasionally it won't work. Any suggestions? (other than abandoning the car and flying back to Brazil permanently?) I'll update when It's fixed
  11. 12 sxt zero power to anything

    In the same boat now, same exact description of jumping it, and watching it be possessed and die after removing the jumpers. New battery 3 months ago, so I suspected the alternator worse... I'll look into this more before I replace it, but you've given me hope that it is just a quick fix. I'll let you know what I discover when the issue is fixed... and while i'm digging around to ice cold engine bay in the freezing wonderland that is my parking lot, I'll change the muffler bearing timing sensor, and engine cover thermal-expansion sensor, and what ever other seemingly imaginary and useless, but also operation-critical sensors I find...
  12. Went a bit offroad

    Me and some college pals took a rental caravan out on the dunes in Yuma AZ. Got it stuck in deep sand.... luckily some guys in a 1500 helped pull us out. We originally did what you said, stuck to the hard gravel/sand... we were positioning the car for the a facebook photo ("WE TOOK THE RENTAL OFF ROAD") and like idiots, while re-position the van for the best angle, we found the only patch of deep sand in the area and got the passenger wheel burried frame deep... glad to hear your adventure went off without a hitch! (Or a tow)
  13. Uconnect 4.3 Frozen

    Update! Disconnected the ground (from under the hood). Waited 30 minutes Problem solved!
  14. TLDR; My radio is lazy, and unresponsive. Volume isn't working, and XM is not working. Will attempt a 'disconnect the negative terminal' trick, per forum discussions. feeling optimistic; will update. Story: As a follow-up to my previous repair tutorial entitled "Cruise Control, LOVE TAP FIX", and my experience as a Alternative Mechanical Repairman (ei, advocate of using the Love-Tap to fix everything from HVAC to Gauge Clusters) I recently noticed my Uconnect 4.3 (2011 DJ) was slowing down, crashing on boot up, and XM/Volume was unresponsive. After boastfully explaining to my wife that 'I knew FCA products, and that a well placed 'LOVE TAP' would fix this touch screen...' I proceeded to give the side of the console a 'THUD' (Just south of the ignition) AND I SHIT YOU NOT THE RADIO FUNCTIONS ALL RETURNED TO NORMAL! ALL WORKING- XM, FM and the VOLUME!... we couldn't stop laughing!!!!.... for about 5 minutes... then it froze again. Oh-well. So today, I check the forums. some folks say to leave the battery disconnected for 30 minutes. Seems legit. I'll do this tonight- and report my findings. I have no doubt this will solve my issue. PSA: I work at GM now... So I get to deal with my coworkers bugging me to switch my ride daily. To them I say "ONCE FCA, HERE TO STAY!" .... Also, it's not in my budget for a new car.
  15. Just installed a Trailer Hitch on my 2011

    Good Luck! So far my hitch has been holding up well. I've not towed with it, but my bikes are still strapped on there- so far so good.
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