Safe mode and complete loss of power whiling driving

[Renucca2020]

I recently purchased a used 2011 journey crew, all inspections cleared, 1 month in while driving the car entered safe mode. 20 minutes later the screen stated that it could not find to FOB and the battery saver started turning off the lights and audio. Once I was able to pull over and place in park there was a complete loss of power, no lights, no gauges not even a door signal. After being towed, the fob still doesn't work, still no power the next day.

[5rebel9]

So how can we assist you? You only stated of having it towed, has anything been diagnosed like the state of the car battery and charging system? Some specifics like how long is recently purchased and miles on the DJ would be helpful for further assistance from fellow Journey owners here.

[Renucca2020]

Battery registered as good condition.  No voltage.  Awaiting mechanic further statements. 65,500 miles. Jan. 2021.

[larryl]

Loose cables, bad battery, bad alternator...the list goes on and on good luck 

[NavalLacrosse]

My shot in the dark is; two things happened:

 

Root cause:

Failing alternator- This is what caused the 'battery saver' mode, and the sequential systems failures (started with the kew fob sensor, then the HVAC, then the Radio, then the ABS and stability, then the gauges, then lastly, the ignition system will fail.

 

Possible Subsequent failure

Battery failure/under voltage - Without having the alternator to provide a recharge, the 12V battery (in the wheel-well) will quickly discharge over a period of 20-40 minutes while keeping the car running.  If the battery didn't get too low, it will likely come back to life with a few days on the trickle charger. if it got too low, then the battery may never recover  (it gave its life to get you 'home' (or at least to the nearest shoulder) safely)

 

Troubleshooting options:

Other than taking it to a shop and having them just fix it for you:

 

Rule out some other issues: 

1) Can the car start and run when connected to jumpers/jump pack?

• if yes, the Engine, and starter are fine, and it is likely a charging system/battery issue.
• if the car cannot run or start when connected to adequate power, either your jumper pack/cables are too weak, or then there might be more wrong... i'm sorry I cannot help!

 

1.5) when you disconnect the jumpers, does the car instantly die? 

• if yes, then it's a charging system. 
• if no (keeps running) then it's the Siren song of FCA... probably will die in a few minutes

 

2) Can you charge the battery with a trickle charger for a few nights?  This might get the voltage high enough to 'save' the car battery from needing replacement. Try cranking (starting) the engine after charging the battery for a few nights.

• Engine cranks just fine, and starts- then the battery is good-to-go!
• Engine barely cranks, or all the lights just die immediately, It's looking like a new battery is needed!
• If the battery voltage is extra low (1.4v or 3v on a voltmeter, instead of it's 11.4-12v happy zone) then it's likely beyond saving. You'll need a new one.

3) After charging the battery (successfully bringing it back to life), or changing it with a new one: The car should start normally- After the car is started, Can the engine maintain a steady idle? (WITHOUT giving the battery saver warning after 10 minutes after running a while?

•  If yes (after 10 minutes of happy idle there are no issues with 'no battery saver mode')- the problem is solved (although might happen again... so be weary, and keep a portable Lithium jump pack in the car $49 at walmart)
• if no (after a few minutes of happily idling, the  the Battery saver warning comes on)- this means the Alternator is likely dead, and will need replacement. 

 

My 2011 had the original battery from 2011 in it until 2018 when it failed on a cold deep freeze. I replaced it with a cheapo walmart battery which failed 6mo after install (dangit!). I replaced it with an expensive battery from Goodyear, and it lasted 12 months until I had exactly the symptoms you explained, and drove all the way home 40 minutes on only the battery. The car died with the world's roughest idle. It wouldn't even come out of park unless I had it on the jump pack.  I replaced the battery with another good brand, (literally following my own diagnosis process) and discovered the alternator was poop (even with it making 14v at the terminals, it just couldn't charge the batt.) I then replaced the alternator by myself with a rebuilt one from Autozone. (a process that feels like birthing a slippery and heavy baby- one that likes to bite back). now the car has zero issues except for a small chirping noise from the new alternator. hey, it works just fine but makes a little silent chirp-chirp-chirp...  that's what I get for not getting a OEM remanufactured Alt, and just whatever was cheapest at O'reilly's was.

 

Cost me 160 for the battery after coupon.
Cost me 260(?) for the alternator
Took about 8 hours, and 10 times watching a youtube tutorial, for me to do, because I'm a slow DIY mechanic.

Spilled about a quart of coolant on the driveway. needed to top it off afterwards.

 

Edited February 11, 2021 by NavalLacrosse

[2late4u]

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[John/Horace]

Chirping is often from the belt. Wire brush and degrease all pulleys of spilt glycol first and see it that helps.

Sometimes used belt doesn’t like running in different direction is was previous running in; could swap direction.

The auto tensioner has a wear indicator if the belt is stretched too much, check for belt stretch.

Could try a new belt, good brand like Gates or Dayton preferably.

[TD Charlie]

Sounds like a bad alternator to me. My 2012 did this last year. Alternator died, which killed an aging battery. Replaced both myself and I've been fine ever since. It's not nearly as frustrating or as expensive as some would lead you to believe. The tensioner pulley on the belt might take some brain power, but you'll figure out a way.