Summer Solstice

Take a look at the various heat shields that are mounted along the drive shaft tunnel. Just had one where the shield was loose and it would hit on the drive shaft. Driving down the road you could here an occasional ping or tick, but when you went up any type of hill it would pop and bang like a bad Ujoint. Put it up in the air and look for rub marks. 

Mechanics pointing fingers at each other for blame is never good. Man splaining as they call it, also not a pleasant experience. I fix my wife and daughters cars to help them avoid that.
 
The oil filter housing is part of a large plastic/aluminum piece called the oil heat exchanger mounted on top of engine. The oil temperature and glycol temp sensors are also screwed into this plastic assembly. There have been a lot of problems with this assembly leaking oil. 2014 was the year with more of the problems (on my 2014 I had to replace the assembly).
 
In some cases people are saying it’s cracked, in other cases the rubber O ring gaskets  are blamed, in other cases the threaded in oil presssure switch is identified as the cause.
 
I think it is a poorly designed part and over tightening oil filter isn’t the real cause,  it’s the design. It’s a messy awkward job and fairly labor intensive.  If the mechanics don’t find a crack it’s possible to just change out the O ring gasket set on the base of the heat exchanger and hope it’s ok. Approx 2 hours-ish of labor and gaskets.
 
The whole assembly from dealer comes with new gaskets, and with new pressure switches oil/glycol installed. Pricy at $385 cdn before tax, but guarantees no second repair job with all variations of leak problem fixed. 
 
 
 

How much oil is leaking, a lot or a minimal amount? Dripping onto the ground or just around the filter housing?
 
"...oil filter gasket which has a hair line crack and has become square in shape and quite solid in touch..."
 
Not clear what is meant by this. Bob says the gasket has a crack? Or a crack in the housing? The oil filter gasket shape is round when new, if overtightened I supposed it could flatten out a bit.
 
I would start by replacing the oil filter and gasket, it's very easy to do and is replaced from above. Make sure it's the correct filter (68191349AB or 68191349AC). A very similar looking filter (68079744Ax) was used in 2013 and earlier models which some people have installed by mistake, which can cause serious issues and leaking. Clean the area around the filter after changing it so you can determine where it is leaking.
 
What exactly is the dealer saying that needs to be replaced and what are they quoting you?
 
 

No way to change it, that’s how it works. You can open the door but need to start the car or the security system goes off...

Here is a general guide to car alarms that may help you locate components. The easiest way to disable the alarm is disconnecting the power source or a kill switch.
 
Perhaps it's worth taking to a local shop and having them disconnect it. It would be far quicker and likely not that costly.
 
https://www.wikihow.com/Install-a-Car-Alarm

Look for the aftermarket alarm under the dash and pull the main plug.
 
I think two systems are interfering with each other.  Hood has a small switch on passenger side fender  that is made when hood is closed.  Make sure it is being fully depressed. Could even check continuity on switch with multi meter. Shim it if needed.

dont know about that, if they are a jerk before then probally a jerk afterwards as well, be careful what you agree to concerning $$

Interesting. Bad universal would get progressively worse imo. Bad rack might start to leak, or power steering pump start to get substantially  louder. 
 
 Could pay mechanic or dealer an hour to specifically diagnose problem. Make that clear, no top ten guesses but exact cause with firm repair quote. Can be difficult to get, lots of parts changers around.
 
Weird odd ball stuff dealer should excel at,  with more specific repair experience. 

Mechanics stethoscope on either end of shaft may be able to isolate noise.
Pic  is a princess auto chepo I’ve had for years. Diagnosing hardest part of car repair IMO.
Throwing parts at a vehicle gets expensive fast.
 
 
 
 
 

caliper seizing up.. just order a new caliper and ceramic pads, install with 2 new front rotors and be done with it!

Looks like the key on the pulley sheared off Just enough to not rotate the cam well enough but by hand would turn and stay in place when setting the timing. Looks like its part of the pulley? im guessing filling the gap and using a removable key would out of the question?

Fun fun fun. Oil  drips from worn lip seal on driver side rear diff. Level down to 650 from 800 ml fill level so no damage likely.
 
Used the Mopar dealer seal , says US made on it, nice to see that when paying for premium part.  Vehicle at 183 k kms or 120k miles  approx, no major filings on plug just lots of fur, oil was already changed at least once with 75w90 synthetic.
 
Didn't change c/v shaft, boots look good slight wear showing where seal was sitting. Polished with emery paper, so far not no leaks in two weeks.
Want to stay with factory c/v shafts as long as possible. Difficulty level just above a brake job, imo.

Fred, you forgot to take the price tag off that fish!  LOL!
 
mechanical-idiot

Clearly the above account has been hacked. This is a Dodge forum and the poster does not have a complaint?
 
Thanks for the positive feedback on a dealer. There are too few of those.

Clearly the above account has been hacked. This is a Dodge forum and the poster does not have a complaint?
 
Thanks for the positive feedback on a dealer. There are too few of those.

https://jalopnik.com/bar-fights-lawsuits-and-the-flu-pandemic-the-war-betw-1830081587

Clearly the above account has been hacked. This is a Dodge forum and the poster does not have a complaint?
 
Thanks for the positive feedback on a dealer. There are too few of those.

Clearly the above account has been hacked. This is a Dodge forum and the poster does not have a complaint?
 
Thanks for the positive feedback on a dealer. There are too few of those.

Just got my 09 back from Fields CDJR in Glenview,IL.  Took it in because getting close to 100k miles and needed to have the timing belt changed (3.5 V6) and was due for an oil change. Dropped it off on Tuesday AM (was given one of their loaners to use).  Wednesday got a call, water pump was leaking.  Since the WP is covered under my Powertrain Warranty, they ordered it and was fixing it.  Thursday about 10am got a call, finished.  Went to pick it up, total bill was just under $650.  Oil change was covered under my maintenance contract and labor charge for the timing belt was deaply discounted, only paid for the actual time to change the belt,tensioner,etc. not getting to it or putting it back together.
 
car runs like the day I got it.  It was cleaned inside with a anti-viral agent.  Was raining out so didn’t care the car wash was closed. You won’t believe it but I HAVE NOTHING TO COMPLAIN ABOUT!! ????

Design Study: Electric Dodge SUV – AutoBison
https://www.autobison.com/2020/05/design-study-electric-dodge-suv/
Maybe some day.
Picture makes nice wallpaper!

If you have a trailer wiring hook up, remove fuse from that first, wires can rub on sharp corners and leak power to ground.
Although full short will blow fuse.

Welcome to the forum. Sounds like a real pain and expensive. Isn’t it weird that doctors and lawyers are allowed to practise but mechanics are supposed to know what their doing. Although yours doesn’t appear to.
 
You need a multi meter so you can see amperage draw when the car is off. There is a go to sleep function that after it times out (around 5 mins) should just show digital clock power consumption  of approx 50-80milli amps with car not running. After that You will need to remove fuses one at a time and see what makes the biggest drop off. Most common is usually radio unit tied to a delayed off function.
 
Another option is an automotive electrical technician, jimbos auto lube places not always great for finicky electrical...although sometimes they can surprise you and out smart a dealership. 
 
Are there any non factory electrical ad ons installed on vehicle?
 
 
 
 

Here is lower clicks/better price. Yards have various warrantys you can get, and will have tested before removal. Usually only part replaced so labor is lost.
Car-part.com link to all the yards in North America. Don’t know your location.
 
 
2013
Engine Assembly
Dodge Journey 2.4l,tested runs nice 102,526 --km-- 165,098 A 200045 430.44
--Can--
$600.00 J and J Auto Recyclers, Inc. Can-ON(Leamington) Request_Quote 800-603-2886 Request_Insurance_Quote
213
--km--

I know in my 18 Cherokee the Nav was activated by me with a code I purchased. It says so right on the build sheet “see your dealer for Nav activation “. Check the build sheet on your journey.  Create an account at ,Mopar.com, put in your vin, all kinds of useful information.