Summer Solstice

so he turned his cold air feed  fed in from the front  grill  into a hot air feed from the engine heat,, sure makes more noise ,kind of like the old days when we flipped our air filter lid upside down on on the filter housing that  sure made more noise sounded good but that is all it did

Roller rocker arms tend to wear out over time and need to be replaced. It’s also a known issue that they tend to go bad on the right side (bank 1) of the 3.6 pentastar motors. I’m not sure why, but there is a very noticeable difference in discoloration of the parts between the two sides of the motor. The only difference I can think of is the pcv valve on the right side.
 
I will say, that had I done the repairs when the tapping first started, I probably wouldn’t have had to replace the camshaft also. Those are around $350 USD each just for the part. The faulty rocker arm ground the cam lobe down over time and it needed to be replaced. So my advice would be to take care of issues as they arise rather than letting them go to do more damage.
 
Aside from the repairs I did today, I’ve only needed regular maintenance so far. Oil changes, brakes, tires, and spark plugs. Don’t get discouraged by all the posts about issues in the forums. That’s only a handful of people and most don’t post when things are running right. There are a ton of journeys on the road, and I imagine there are quite a few with high mileage. 
 
I’d love to keep mine for another 100k+ miles….I like not having a car payment lol

So, an 09 model with AWD. That would mean a 3.5 motor and 6sp trans. From LACK of useful input given by you, I will have to agree with member/moderator jkeaton as to your BEST MOVE to take care of the situation.
   GOOD LUCK!

Personally I'd get it to a reputable shop for a proper diagnosis. We can certainly guess, but someone with a first hand look will have a much better answer for you. 

In agreement with OhareFred on this one.....my 2011 didnt have the OEM rear cam from the factory, i i checked with several dealership and they said it couldn't add the oem BUT they could add one that the rear view mirror would show the image instead of my 8.4 in dash screen, but it wasnt an oem, i waited another year and then the oem became available so then i had it installed

According to FCA, the factory location for the backup camera on a 2019 is by the license plate with the display in the radio screen (was like that on my 09 as well).  What you have is an aftermarket system,likely added by the dealer before you bought it. I’d go to wherever you bought your car and ask them about it.  It is not a factory system.

So you've gone a year with NO FORWARD GEARS and just recently got reverse back AFTER some unspecified repair???
WHAT engine and is this FWD or AWD???\
   Drop the trans oil pan and check for the filter having "popped out" of it's mounting into the valve body. It is the pick up point for fluid to pump thru the trans. It may pick up enough with it dislodged for REVERSE, but from experience NOT for forward gears. 
    Hit a ditch a year ago and has not been driven since? Best to check for a damaged CV Joint may grab and hold for REVERSE but not forward gears.
   NOT a whole lot of specific info given by you, so there are a large number of possibilities as to a fix of your trouble

I was able to pull the grommet back and slide it down the boot far enough to expose the wires and make the repairs.  Here's a photo with the grommet pulled back.

Looks like AutosalePro would be a good place to start.....

Changing the brand of coils won't give you any power. Also, there is no chip that works with these cars. If it's advertised to work, it's fake. Chips are garbage. 

And after a week of driving...  Replacing the TCC solenoid solved the problem!!!  
Downshifting when stopping is smoooooth every time.  No more jerking, no more rumble strips, no more surging, no more.
 
The solenoid was $21.00, some permatex gasket goo, and couple of quarts of trans fluid is all it took.  The trans fluid and filter change along the way was needed, and overdue.
 
I made sure to disconnect the battery before I started the solenoid replacement as that trans electrical connector spooked me.  I feared damaging electronics in the disconnect/reconnect process and having a whole slew of codes to deal with if I didn't.  Some of the videos don't mention disconnecting the battery.  I didn't want to take even the slightest chance of shorts, spikes, surges, when dealing with connections providing input and outputs from the computer that controls the transmission.  I had no issues.
 
And...  no leaks!
 
It took over a year to get to get to this point, but call this resolved and THANK YOU for the input.  This forum got me through this and saved me $$$.
 
Replace the throttle body...  what was I thinking.    LOL
(It was my original thought on what needed to be replaced.)
 
 
 
 
 

SUMMER update
 
As Summer progressed, so did the problem.  Over time it went from barely noticeable to being there on almost every stop.  Not severe, but there.  As I would come to a stop at a stoplight, the car would shutter or jerk as the car was downshifting.  This felt like the equivalent of driving a vehicle with a manual transmission and the motor lurching when leaving it in a higher gear too long and the clutch engaged too long when coming to a stop.
 
With the weather finally cooling off a bit, yesterday I put on by big boy pants and replaced the torque converter clutch solenoid (TCC).  I was quite nervous going in.  Everything went well.  Its not toooooo much more difficult then when doing a trans fluid change when dropping the pan, and everything is easily accessible toggling between above and below.  As always the advice on this forum and youtube videos were invaluable.
 
I let the gasket sealant dry overnight.  Today I refilled the trans fluid (more on that later) and went for a test drive.  On all accounts this appears to be SUCCESS!  Ive put on a few miles today and the car downshifts smoothly when coming to a stop and not once did anything resemble a stutter or jerking motion.  I will provide another update in the upcoming days or week as I monitor the shifting and watch for leaks (with fingers crossed).
 
 
 

Compression on cylinder 4 would be useful information.
 
When you did oil cooler housing (like a lot of us also had to do) you had upper and lower manifolds removed.
 
it’s a good idea to replace both sets of gaskets at same time, the old  gaskets get crushed a bit. Air leak from bad intake manifold seal can create a cylinder misfire code sometimes.
 
 
 

Whatever happened to a bag of ice? 
 
Two bags are cheaper than a new battery... just saying ? 

Power draw 4 amps,  is a lot. Restart half way through the night and run car for 10 mins, or it will be flat by morning IMO.  Our batteries new I think are 65 amp hours full. . But capacity drops over time with some batteries useless after 3 years.
Shouldn't drop battery below 12 volts or you start to damage the plates. So usable energy is no where near near 65 amps. Journey are sensitive to low batteries; push button start is a one shot relay system; not like the old style slow crank holding key on set ups. 
 
Could plug in a large lithium booster pack (10-12k milli amps) on vehicle for the night, another option. Running regular lead batteries flat and boosting is hard on them, I try to avoid it when ever possible. Deep cycle batteries are designed for this type of use.
 
Let us know how it works out. I love learning from other people’s mistakes. ?

Well, after an unexpectedly short time with our 2013 Journey R/T AWD, we had to say goodbye to it a couple of months ago. It had served us well, taken my spouse and I to and from work, hauled our two granddaughters to numerous functions and sports activities, and taken us on trips over three Canadian provinces. This year, it hauled hundreds of items to our new condo [and a lot of recyclables, and junk to our local depot before we moved].
 
Sadly, we had been experiencing shuddering and grinding noises since 2020. Despite a front-end repair under our extended warranty and another front-end inspection and work this past May, the problems continued. A diagnosis in June was that the electronic clutch control system had to be completely replaced, about $5,000 including labour [this is an assembly, not parts]. On a 9-year-old vehicle with about 60,000 km, my spouse and I debated what to do, and decided it had to go. After researching various makes and models, we traded it on a 2021 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited. We were not looking for a Jeep but the model approximated what we wanted in an SUV.
 
I miss the Journey’s interior room [7-seater]; our new Grand Cherokee is a five-seater. I miss the underfloor and under passenger seat storage. I miss the wide-opening rear doors and the standard roof rack. I don’t miss the Journey’s AWD system; it was the source of a number of in-warranty repairs over the years and it just shuddered when going through snow or backing up a grade [this should have been a red flag to what occurred as described above]. I don’t miss its electrical issues (three batteries in the last 5 years, necessitating removing the left front wheel and wheel well cover each time to get the batteries replaced – I never understood why FCA could not find a place in the engine compartment to place the battery). It was also short on convenience items, safety features, had an old Uconnect interface with a terrible Garmin-based NAV system (more inaccurate than not, even after updating the software), and FCA never manufactured it with a power liftgate; the latter was important as my spouse is short and found it very difficult to pull the Journey’s hatch down to close. We don’t have regrets buying it, just keeping it as long as we did.
 
I appreciate the time as a member of this forum and the numerous posts regarding owners’ experiences. This will obviously be my last post and I will eventually cancel my membership. Good luck to everyone and I hope that you continue to enjoy your “journey with your Journey.”

8/28/21  10:15 am
    They were wrong! Started at 8:00 and decided to call it quits for the day. Got the 2 upstream sensors changed and found the cause of the P0420. The sensor tip "cage" was cracked and under heat was touching the inner section. 
   Only had to remove the air tubes from the air filter housing AND that elbow to the throttle body. Upper intake did not have to come off.
     It's only 70*f here BUT close to 85% humidity and supposed to now hit 87* today, rain later tonight!....I'm sweat soaked and sore from bending over the hood/engine. Besides the BILLS play the Packers today at 1:00 gotta shower and get ready to watch the game!! 
     One thing that got me upset about the job was my DJ says 1/11 build date, rockauto says NTK23161 for upstream RIGHT(firewall side)... IT is NOT, wrong plug connector and I found this out AFTER installing to the manifold. Took it back out and used one of the other NTK23162, Beside the OE being a white connector and the replacement had a black one, the aligning slots are different. AND RA also lists that NTK 23161 fits downstream left(radiator side)from 11/18/10....IT IS NOT for my 1/11 build date car, It IS the NTK23162.

i grew up about 20 miles from Woodward Ave... almost every fri or sat night we were cruising  it and racing  from stop light  to stop light, trying to not get caught from the cops.. LOL what a way to grow up and also going over to Windsor Canada for a quick bite to eat and and hit all the nudie clubs that would let us in,,,,,,wouldn't get home till around 4-5 am.....had a good friend that his neighbor father  was an engineer and worked at Chrysler and he was always bringing home sleeper cars that they would build but look like and old ladies car and he would always be going down to Woodward and race and and show it off to the local car racers to get their opinion on what Chrysler had going for street racing

Too cool to have "fallen in" with such like that! Reminds me of going to a local car show some years ago as a SPECTATOR and the hosting group INSISTED that I enter the car I came with.... an original(with a few body blemishes) 59k mile 74 VW beetle. I won second in the import class to an MG!
   And as for the "burn outs" ...Yeah fun to attempt , but as you said about shortening the drivetrain life   ... 

Random moment which made my week. 

So, if you're not familiar, (I don't blame you if you're not), There is an event in Detroit called the Woodward Dream Cruise, which is basically a really long(15 miles of road) cruise/car show/expo of all things car. Every genre, every scene, every car- A celebration of cars in the motor city-
One of the 'things' that happens is the spectators on the side will have megaphones and will yell at the drivers "REV IT UP!" "BURN OUT!" and the drivers will do a short burnout for a few feet and then keep driving.

Anyway:
I'm in my Dodge Journey, we're watching the cars while driving in the 'thru lanes' of the highway. I was trying to get off the main drag, so I'm 'in the cruiser lane trying to turn right' amongst the classics, the Hellcats, the rat rods, and the rest.... that's when I hear it on the loudspeaker: 

"Dodge Journey.... Dodge Journey!! LIGHT IT UP DODGE JOURNEY..."

and I did it: 
Neutral Gear: REV to 4k Dump it in Drive Pedal E-Brake on 1/2 way.  I left about 4 ft of tire mark(s?) on the road, and got a massive cheer from the crowd. 10/10 will take my Journey to the Dream Cruise again XD. Probably took 6 months of life out of the fwd driveline...

Anyway. moral of the story, I made about a dozen day-drinkers lose their minds for few seconds, and made my week. I'd not recommend doing that with your Journey.

YUP it's been that way on a LOT of the FCA vehicles going way back to the '80s. It does not have to be jacked up much to get enough clearance to slide the bolt out or in, and the side mount has enough "give" as to not have to disconnect anything to jack it. Watch out for fitting the left control arm going in, sometimes the angle during install makes some prying necessary. I have not done this job on our DJ, but on all of the many minivans and a couple old FWD cars I've had in the past!

Attached a pic for anyone interested.   I ended up tightening it back up and plan on getting back after it this weekend.  

Hi all,
 
Been a while since my last post (life gets in the way sometimes).
 
So just hit 7 years ownership 96,000km (60,000 Miles)  and journey still makes me smile every time I drive it. Yes I had the Map issue 4 years ago which was fixed under warranty , no issues since (wish I could find a more up to date map for Australia but that a minor thing). There are still things the Journey has that most new SUV's still don't have 
 
Under floor storage in 2nd row
Passenger seat storage
passenger seat fold flat so you can carry 2.7m (9foot)  timber inside the car
2nd row doors open 90 degrees
2nd row seat base folds up when you slide it forward to give better access to 3rd row
Roof racks as standard
LED tail light as standard
 
The only addition I have made is to installed an LED numberplate light bar
 

 
Here's to another 7 years of great ownership
 
 
Gaz
 
 
 

A little more than a month later and it's still doing fine.  The issue has not came back.  Before it the issue would occur a few times per week.  The TCC solenoid fixed the issue.

just FYI for people in the future that have a problem like this...car is fixed and didnt cost anything...ok, has 143,000 miles on it, it started right up and ran perfectly, until it hit 3 or 4th gear, then it seemed like it went in limp mode(dropped horsepower like in half), but it wasnt limp mode, had two separate bad ass scanners(one over 5000.00) and both said it wasnt in limp mode, but it was  a DOG.....neither guy could figure it out with scanners, until at last minute I told the last guy, lets reset the computer back to stock specs, which he did, and vehicle runs great...it was dropping the injector signal to injectors 1 and 4....you can feel injectors click when they are working normal and it is idling....when car was running fine you could feel the click on all four injectors, then when it was running like crap, no clicking from the two injectors...reset computer and it instantly was fine and stayed that way...