tsteves5

I've had issues with all of them, but mines is a bit older (2011).

You could swap the injector to another cylinder and see if the other cylinder starts misfiring. Then you'll know for sure if it's an injector before buying a new one. If the misfire doesn't move after swapping the injector, then try swapping the coil. I've seen bad "new" ones of these. I've had a few of the 3.6 engines. I've had misfires due to the wiring harness. In my case, the injector harness was not plugged in tight to the upstream harness. I've also had a misfire caused by a bad ECU. I was able to purchase a used/pre-programmed ECU online for a reasonable price. I had one engine with a persistent misfire that ended up being bad piston rings. A pressure leak-down test found that one. The 3.6 engine is also susceptible to the rocker arms issue. I've had this issue and it didn't cause a misfire condition because I caught it early enough, but I've read cases where it can cause a misfire issue. I'm not trying to scare you here, just listing some other causes of misfires that I've personally seen.

I maintain an AllData subscription for all my service-manual type needs. https://www.alldata.com/diy-us/en

It's always hard to know for sure with a cell phone video, but it sounds like it could be the rocker arm tick. Get yourself one of these cheap mechanics stethoscopes and touch it to both the front and rear valve covers the next time you hear it ticking. If it's a rocker arm then you will hear a noticeable difference between the two valve covers. https://www.harborfreight.com/mechanics-stethoscope-63691.html If you catch it early enough, the camshaft can often be saved. There's also a cheap way to fix it and an expensive way. You might want to see this thread:

I assume that you're talking about the 3.6 engine. I've done rockers myself a couple of times on different vehicles with this same engine. I maintain my vehicles too, regular oil changes, etc... so it's a frustrating issue that seems unavoidable in some cases. It's not a terribly tough job if you're mechanically-inclined. The big reason for the expensive quotes is that the service manual, and associated hours for the job in the service manual include the removal of the camshafts. It is absolutely possible to replace all the rockers WITHOUT removing the camshafts if the camshafts are not damaged by the faulty rocker(s). There are some YouTube videos that show how to do this. I'm not a professional mechanic, and I can replace all 12 rockers in a single cylinder head in about 2 hours myself. If you don't want to do this yourself, then I'd search for a mechanic who knows how to do the job without removing the camshafts.

I assume that you're talking about the 3rd row seat. I did not have to remove that.

It should be at the very back of the vehicle, on the passenger (right) side behind the plastic cover. I've done this job twice myself on the mode actuator which is located in the same spot. You will also need a method to calibrate the new actuator once it's installed. In my case, I used AlphaOBD with a Bluetooth OBD receiver. I highly recommend getting an OEM Mopar actuator. The first time I used an after-market one and it only lasted a short time and had issues calibrating. It's not a fun job to do twice.

I recently had a similar experience with my 2011. I replaced the control arms, inner and outer tie rods, sway bar links and ball joint boots. After the replacement I had a lot more noise that before, like clunking from both sides of the front end when changing direction, starting/stopping quickly, and going over large bumps. Part of the problem was the new sway bar links. They were junk. I replaced them with a more reputable brand and it solved the noise while going over bumps. But I still had the clunking when changing direction and starting/stopping quickly. I was watching a YouTube video about the control arm replacement and the guy on the video used a jack to raise the suspension to approximately ride height before he tightened down the control arm bolts. When I did mine, I tightened everything down with the vehicle in the air and the front suspension down completely (not at ride height). I jacked it up, used another jack to get the suspension into approximate ride position, loosened and re-tightened the control arm bolts at ride height. All of the clunking went away, and now my front end is completely silent. I'm still not sure why this worked, but it did for me.

It would be helpful to know which exact codes the computer is detecting. If you do not have a scanner, a local auto parts store should be able to scan it for you.

Has anyone here replaced the rear motor mount on 3.6 AWD? The service manual has it listed as a 1.4 hour job, but looking at the vehicle itself it seems like it might be more difficult. How hard is this job? How did you support the back side of the motor when removing and replacing the rear motor mount? I don't see a good location to use a floor jack for the back side of the motor.

Here is my experience. I've owned a few of the 3.6 engines and every one has needed at least one oil cooler assembly replacement, and at least one idler pulley replacement. Neither is a terrible job if you are mechanically inclined have access to the parts. I've also had an issue with multiple rocker arms failing on one of the engines. If you catch the problem early enough it will not damage the camshafts too seriously and you can replace just the rocker arms. Replacing the rocker arms is a bit more involved, but it can be done without removing the cam shafts if you research the method. I haven't had any major issues with the electronics, but they are extremely sensitive to voltage and you will need a strong battery. You will experience odd issues with clock and HVAC resetting itself, and possibly other dashboard lights if the battery gets weak. The battery is inside the driver's side wheel well, so it's not the easiest to change. I purchased my current Journey used with about ~140,000 miles on it. The all-wheel-drive viscous coupler was bad when I purchase it. There would be random clunks from the rear of the car, especially when making a tight turn, and it was wearing out the rear tires quickly. A new viscous coupler can cost $1500-$2000 USD for the part alone. I found a replacement in a junk yard for $50 and it works fine and solved all my issues.

I had a very similar issue on a different Chrysler product last year. One injector would not fire, but the others worked fine. Noid light worked fine on the others, but not on that specific connector. I had continuity on both wires from the injector connector to the PCM/ECU connector so I knew the wiring was good. In my case, it ended up being the PCM/ECU. I bought one online from a place that sells pre-programmed used ones. Just plug and go. I've had no issues with that injector since then.

Possibly. I would also check around the fuel rails for leaks at the top of the engine. Any fuel leaks up there would most likely end up between the cylinder heads and might not drip to the ground.

I haven't heard that particular noise before. But I have heard some other strange noises when accelerating only if the motor mounts are damaged. I would suggest checking to see how much the engine moves around.

If it were mine, I would drop the pan, change the filter and replace the 4-5 quarts of fluid that is possible with a pan drop. Depending upon how dark the fluid is, I might drive it a while, then change the fluid a second time too. You can suck it out with a hand pump through the filler hole. You need an after-market dip stick and the temperature fill chart to do this on your own. If you take it somewhere, avoid anywhere that will "flush" out the system. It's too hard on transmissions and will most likely cause more problems than good.