NavalLacrosse

True. The Federal penalty for going over under MPG requirements must be mounting up. 18mpg combined is pretty low for a 2020 crossover, IMO.

not a solution, but I also have BT issue. Although I may be wrong; I'm pretty sure this is just normal finicky Bluetooth operation from a car from 2011,12. Mine fails to pair, lags often, and fails to connect for media 50% of the time. I found if I leave my phone's BT on, it will always connect if I don't look at it- However, if it isn't connected immediately when the car starts, and the radio boots- it's a 5 minute headache of my phone and car not getting along. Hope you find the solution.

FCA has their head up their butt, but they've got a plan. I Think FCA's plan is to make the the DJ insufferable (w/ only 4cyl) is that there is 2 years till the release of their new (2022 jeep?Jouney) CUV. GM did this with their Equinox prior to the Blazer's release, neutering the equinox with a 4cyl 2 years prior to the release of the V6 blazer. Jeep is their SUV Brand- and the new DJ-esque CUV they've been testing might take on the profitable Jeep badge. make sense, and I'm not upset they want to make money. Dodge is their Performance Brand (used to be their economy brand in the early 2000's), and makes sense they want their "beefy" Hemi cars, SUV, and truck on this lineup. The DJ make sense in 2008, but doesn't align with the brand message they want to convey in 2020+. Chrysler's badge is holding on by a thread; with only their flagship, the Pacifica Minivan (and it's buck-toothed cousin, the Chrysler Voyager). They should have killed this brand when the 300 died- but they needed a family-oriented badge to sell their minivan they spent a lot of money on developing under - seeing as and the other two brands are not suitable for a marshmallow. Maybe the 2022 CUV will be used to bolster Chrysler's lineup? Jeep surely doesn't need more CUV's There's probably some FCA guys laughing at my comment.

I Live/work in Detroit metro,: I can confirm Dodge Journey is a VERY popular choice of inexpensive crossover, especially in blue collar metro-Detroit. I'll often find myself in mini herds of DJs while zipping through traffic. As far as a car goes, It checks all the boxes: -'American' (this is a pre-req for 90% of car owners in Metro Detroit) -SUV, so it's presumed safe (this is up to debate) -Inexpensive to own and repair -Good Looking exterior (if your sense of automotive style is grounded in 2008, which wasn't a bad time at all) -Very Very Good looking interior. GM and Ford's product is more expensive. I think this stems from GM and Ford constantly innovating to better their lineup as far as safety, efficiency, and style... and FCA is doing what they do- Hitting a home run from the start, and beating the golden goose to a pulp. "Why spend money innovating, if what we've got now is stupidly profitable" In an Ironic twist, FCA's headquarters is located in a slightly more affluent area, meaning there are fewer DJ, or Chyslers, in general,per person- and more Buicks, Caddys, Lincolns, and Lux imports,...

My calculation must be off... I didn't account for the slosh of oil in the V6 engine. Guess my number are off. Throw them all out.

Agreed with Jkeaton, TLDR; moving people around the cabin will not have an effect that you'll notice, just don't exceed the tongue weight (250.lbs). Use weight distribution hitches if you are really worried: Do not exceed the rated Tongue weight- (which is an abysmal 250.lbs) The biggest issue is going to be have with a trailer of 1500 lbs gross-weight trailer will be tongue weight. if it vastly exceeds 250.lbs while going over bumps, it will 'lift' the front wheels during dynamic loads- severely reducing the ability to steer. (imagine a dip on the road while travelling 45mph: when the your trailer hits it- and you may have reduced traction for steering for 1 second, and your trailer's left-right sway gets to choose your direction for you before you regain full control.) This phenomenon can be corrected using a 'weight distribution hitch ($$)' far better than adjusting the weight of the people in the cabin. now for math about moving people around the cabin: (all the math is on a sticky note here at my desk- and I used the method of summing moments to make the following calculations:) The weight of people in the car, as described, will provide no noticeable difference of steering performance: moving the weight difference of 240 lbs together from rear seat to front seat (max difference in weight of 4 total passengers switching seats) will only add an additional 70lbs to the front axle. if The Dodge Journey (assuming balance 50/50, which it's not. it's nose heavy SUV with a likely 60/40 distribution, but lets go 50/50 for conservative estimates.) has 2500 lbs per axle while sitting empty. Moving, and exchanging the heavy people from the rear to front of the cabin will have a max 2.7% increase of weight on the front axle. so, no. it doesn't matter where people sit.

Resurrecting old posts is fun! My 2011 Crew has rolled 78,000 miles. So far this is all that's wrong: Brakes all around at 32k, and brakes again at 70k One set of 4 new tires at 32k, and I'll need new ones in the next month or so. New battery at 65k, and broken driver's side power seat plastic cover, but the switches still work. Not going to fix it. There's an active recall on a wiring harness in the steering wheel. I'll do that later this week. All I've been doing is changing the oil when the car says, with Full/Syn DexOs, and FRAM walmart filters. And... for what it's worth, I use Speedway regular gasoline. My goal is to pay for the next car with speedyrewards, and the DJ 18mpg combined is going to get me a new Speedycorvette at this rate. This has been the best regular car ever. Glad I bought it.

OhareFred's got the solution. This happened to me twice. Disconnect the negative terminal from under the hood. Wait 30 minutes. (why the negative? Because it's easiest to remove, and has a neat plastic loop that keeps it neatly in place, near the grounding post). As a bonus info; IF this issue is reoccurring, and eventually results in being unable to start or sustain the engine running: It's FCA's friendly way of telling you the battery needs replacement. Welcome to the fourm!

"HELP" is not going to work. "Where is the front towing hard point location - 2013" is going to get results.

unplug the negative terminal for 30 minutes. This fixed my issue when the radio kept crashing and rebooting. Additional Note: You might not have this issue like i did: after letting the car sit with no battery for 30 minutes the immediate radio issues were solved- about one month later, my battery died. The weak battery was causing the radio to act weird. after replacing the battery with a new one (goodyear tire, $140usd) all my radio issues have gone away. that was 6months ago. For a little more than $1200 dollars, you can buy the installer kit that converts between 4.3 up to 8" (Check it out by googling 2012 dodge journey uconnect upgrade kit.) depending on your car it might cost between 1400, and 1500.

Replacing the battery might fix all of these issues. When the battery gets faulty, all the gremlins start showing up. When mine was showing similar symptoms, all I could think was about how much replacing the Bluetooth module would be. There was also a rumor that the battery temperature sensor (What?) was faulty. I took it in to swap the battery for a new one- all my issues went away. My gremlins were that the volume knob wasn't working well (What's in have to do with the battery dying?!?!), and the radio kept resetting in the week prior to the battery failing on me. After that, the car wouldn't recognize the key fob for key-less entry ("service keyless entry system" warning), and finally, it wouldn't start, and even after jumping, couldn't even hold idle without stalling. After the battery was swapped (no issues with the alternator, thankfully), I've not had any issues with the radio stack. Goodyear did mine for $145

Use the oil that the car needs (in your case 6 quarts 5W-20). There is no cost difference for using 20 vs 30... so why risk excessive wear and drive-train-warranty killing oil for ... tradition? These engines in modern cars are tested, and engineered to run with their specific oils- at high temp and low temps. If the engine is "Damn cold", (-40F polar vortex) then let it run for a minute or two before auto-crossing it. The oil pump is driven by the engine. More revs=more pressure. Lastly, I use Full-Synthetic every time. My 2011 (3.6 v6) takes 5W-30 (surprisingly, different from yours) per the manufactures requirements. I see the $10-$20 more per 7000 miles worth it to delay an engine failure till the next owner buys it. I daily drive the aggressive poop out of my family crossover in metro-detroit traffic- so I think the extra 'protection' is needed.

For me, changing the battery was all I needed. I had Goodyear do it for 135 dollars. Totally worth it. The failed battery was causing the gremlins to come out. The new battery solved my issues.... Good luck OP

If I chose to buy a wash plan, I'd make sure the facilities are to my liking, meaning minimal risk of scratching. (There's a place near my work that uses vehicle-contacting blower ducts to dry. I'm not going there ever again for fear of scratches) I know a guy who has the Meijer (Walmart-esq Supermarket chain) unlimited wash card. He washed is car every other day... and when it snowed, he'd just scrape the front window then he'd run the car through the wash to de-ice the rest on the way in to work. As far as me? I'd wash it probably every three or four days. One personal feeling I have towards any monthly paid service: If i'm paying for it, I'll utilize the crap out of it!

Welcome, I've got the 2011 Crew. Got a good deal on mine. Me and the Lady have driven it from 33k to 65k miles. A grand total of $600 of repairs since it was bought 1.5 years ago (Brakes pads, rotors, and two new batteries) (It would have been one new battery had i spend more than $60 replacing the first one.) How many miles do you have, OP?

1 week, and no issues. I suspect the root cause of the issue remains- but as I've not had any issues yet, I'll continue to live in a fool's bliss. Fob transmits at a great range still... but I'll replace the battery anyway soon. I read in some outside forum that this was an indicator of a greater problem in the computer. I've not been able to dig up that forum post since reading it the first time. I read the manual, and now obvious to me in retrospect, the red light is simply the security arming. Thanks for the reassurance anyway!

Add: The [any number] mm socket. It's the tool you assumed your 52pc ratched set had.... But seemingly didn't include.

OP, like many others, have the hope of getting that extra kick out of their DJ. I've not seen anyone actually do it. My personal take on it is, sadly, is the DJ is a family runabout crossover. It's purpose was to replace the short-bed caravan. The V-6 isn't slow, but isn't quick either.... I've accepted the fact I bought a minivan(DJ) and not a R/T charger. And, for what it's worth- Welcome to the forms! Check out the performance section of the forums for ideas. There's been a lot a very determined people attempting to make their DJ faster.

Update 1, Took the car to Goodyear, outside of work. Guys tested the alternator and say it's good (holding 14 volts) they say the battery health was poor. They suspect parasite drain. $169 parts and labor I now have a new battery. Cars running and driving like it should.... ... But, New developments: All systems function, but one warning "key battery low". This is a new development. I don't think it's actually low but I'll change it anyway. I read somewhere that this was another sign of trouble... Additionally (and this could be me being paranoid) when I leave and lock The car, the red round light on the dash (thieft light?) blinks. I've never seen/noticed this before, or at least seen it blink so predominantly during locking. Twice a second untill the headlight time out, and the reduce to one blink per two seconds.... Does anyone know what could be causing the low key battery warning, presuming Its not really a low key battery issue and is a false reading? Does anyone else no what the normal blinking pattern is for the red light in the dash when locking and leaving the car? Side note, picked up a cheap jump pack from Walmart. Never again will I use an Uber... Who am I kidding; I own an FCA. My primary mode of transit is whatever my Uber drives...

no, there is no power to disengage the parking gear lockout- or turn the wheel- (when it's jumped, I can turn it, change gears, ect.) I have towing included with my insurance, so i'm thinking of giving it to Dodge's service dept. to figure it out at my expense.... I've read about others having this problem on the road, and when the power dies, the steering lock engages... holy crap!, I hop that doesn't happen to me even.

Concise version: Car sits outdoors for 2 weeks. Temps outside are 32F. No electric power, no unlock, no dome lights, obviously no cranking power. 1) Ask for jump, successfully cranked the car. All systems running normal while connected to the jumper's car's power. 2) disconnect jumpers after about 30 seconds. 3) 15 seconds of normal operation, then overhead lights pulse on-off-on-off twice a second, radio on off, some warning lights on-off (mainly traction control, tire pressure) then engine stalls- zero electric power (dome lights dead), and tachometer is stuck at last reading 1,500 RPM (What i was Reving-to hoping to keep the power flowing, stepper motors didn't have power to return the tach to zero). 4) jump again. instantly, on jumper's power, gauges return to zero, and the car systems are restored to normal operation while on jumper. Crank engine, starts no issue. All systems normal. 5) removed jumpers, systems function properly for 15 seconds, then same as before, pulsing overhead lights, some lights on dash, 15 more seconds the engine stalls, tach and fuel gauge frozen (steppers without power) my troubleshooting: voltage at the under-hood battery mains while connected to the car: 0.3v. I disconnect the negative terminal here, and test the the neg-to-pos voltage: 3.4v. Note, battery is 3 months old. Hypothisis: 1) Terminals corroded (I'll freeze my butt off, but i'll check this next) 2) Bad battery temp sensor. No idea how to diagnose. 3) Bad Alternator (and dead/depleted batt.) Coming home from my wonderful tropical vacation to see my Wife in Brazil, I get home and rush to get to work the same day... only to call in an tell them my dodge wouldn't start. I work at GM, so they gave me a hard time, but understood that as I am driving a FCA product, there is an understanding that occasionally it won't work. Any suggestions? (other than abandoning the car and flying back to Brazil permanently?) I'll update when It's fixed

In the same boat now, same exact description of jumping it, and watching it be possessed and die after removing the jumpers. New battery 3 months ago, so I suspected the alternator worse... I'll look into this more before I replace it, but you've given me hope that it is just a quick fix. I'll let you know what I discover when the issue is fixed... and while i'm digging around to ice cold engine bay in the freezing wonderland that is my parking lot, I'll change the muffler bearing timing sensor, and engine cover thermal-expansion sensor, and what ever other seemingly imaginary and useless, but also operation-critical sensors I find...

Me and some college pals took a rental caravan out on the dunes in Yuma AZ. Got it stuck in deep sand.... luckily some guys in a 1500 helped pull us out. We originally did what you said, stuck to the hard gravel/sand... we were positioning the car for the a facebook photo ("WE TOOK THE RENTAL OFF ROAD") and like idiots, while re-position the van for the best angle, we found the only patch of deep sand in the area and got the passenger wheel burried frame deep... glad to hear your adventure went off without a hitch! (Or a tow)