NavalLacrosse

last night Metro Detroit got 8 inches. It was a poo-show getting in this morning; so many cars randomly stuck at green lights. I actually opted out of my DJ and took my VOLT (just because I'm spoiled now by electric propulsion) despite it being the wrong option. Still; as someone said; FWD isn't an issue. you just need decent tires, and know how and where (and where not) to drive in deep snow. I've not had any issues with the DJ in deeper snow, and the only time I got stuck was when I was "horsing around " in a parking lot, as Rebel says!

My shot in the dark is; two things happened: Root cause: Failing alternator- This is what caused the 'battery saver' mode, and the sequential systems failures (started with the kew fob sensor, then the HVAC, then the Radio, then the ABS and stability, then the gauges, then lastly, the ignition system will fail. Possible Subsequent failure Battery failure/under voltage - Without having the alternator to provide a recharge, the 12V battery (in the wheel-well) will quickly discharge over a period of 20-40 minutes while keeping the car running. If the battery didn't get too low, it will likely come back to life with a few days on the trickle charger. if it got too low, then the battery may never recover (it gave its life to get you 'home' (or at least to the nearest shoulder) safely) Troubleshooting options: Other than taking it to a shop and having them just fix it for you: Rule out some other issues: 1) Can the car start and run when connected to jumpers/jump pack? if yes, the Engine, and starter are fine, and it is likely a charging system/battery issue. if the car cannot run or start when connected to adequate power, either your jumper pack/cables are too weak, or then there might be more wrong... i'm sorry I cannot help! 1.5) when you disconnect the jumpers, does the car instantly die? if yes, then it's a charging system. if no (keeps running) then it's the Siren song of FCA... probably will die in a few minutes 2) Can you charge the battery with a trickle charger for a few nights? This might get the voltage high enough to 'save' the car battery from needing replacement. Try cranking (starting) the engine after charging the battery for a few nights. Engine cranks just fine, and starts- then the battery is good-to-go! Engine barely cranks, or all the lights just die immediately, It's looking like a new battery is needed! If the battery voltage is extra low (1.4v or 3v on a voltmeter, instead of it's 11.4-12v happy zone) then it's likely beyond saving. You'll need a new one. 3) After charging the battery (successfully bringing it back to life), or changing it with a new one: The car should start normally- After the car is started, Can the engine maintain a steady idle? (WITHOUT giving the battery saver warning after 10 minutes after running a while? If yes (after 10 minutes of happy idle there are no issues with 'no battery saver mode')- the problem is solved (although might happen again... so be weary, and keep a portable Lithium jump pack in the car $49 at walmart) if no (after a few minutes of happily idling, the the Battery saver warning comes on)- this means the Alternator is likely dead, and will need replacement. My 2011 had the original battery from 2011 in it until 2018 when it failed on a cold deep freeze. I replaced it with a cheapo walmart battery which failed 6mo after install (dangit!). I replaced it with an expensive battery from Goodyear, and it lasted 12 months until I had exactly the symptoms you explained, and drove all the way home 40 minutes on only the battery. The car died with the world's roughest idle. It wouldn't even come out of park unless I had it on the jump pack. I replaced the battery with another good brand, (literally following my own diagnosis process) and discovered the alternator was poop (even with it making 14v at the terminals, it just couldn't charge the batt.) I then replaced the alternator by myself with a rebuilt one from Autozone. (a process that feels like birthing a slippery and heavy baby- one that likes to bite back). now the car has zero issues except for a small chirping noise from the new alternator. hey, it works just fine but makes a little silent chirp-chirp-chirp... that's what I get for not getting a OEM remanufactured Alt, and just whatever was cheapest at O'reilly's was. Cost me 160 for the battery after coupon. Cost me 260(?) for the alternator Took about 8 hours, and 10 times watching a youtube tutorial, for me to do, because I'm a slow DIY mechanic. Spilled about a quart of coolant on the driveway. needed to top it off afterwards.

My sister works at a VA in michigan as a Doctor. Welcome to the cult!

Bom Dia from the states- I'll be flying down to Curitiba-PR for Christmas. (unrelated!) So, to clarify: (in the correct operating conditions) : The 'Accept' button will disappear automatically after 3-5 seconds. In your Freemont: is the 'Accept' button not disappearing automatically? or is the radio rebooting by itself multiple times on the same drive?

the accept button signs away your soul. It's the button on the Radio. it shows up every time the radio stack resets. This is probably me suggesting tylenol for a bullet wound... But this sounds like an electrical bug causing the radio head to reset from time to time: try the simple computer full reset procees: it costs nothing, and might fix/diagnose the issue. Unplug the car battery for 33-45 minutes and let the car do a hard reset. plug it back in. If this fixes the problem, you're golden!. If the issue comes back after a few days, I have a diagnosis (or at least another test to try) I'm guessing you've already had your battery and alternator checked? A symptom of a (not failed yet, but) less-than-100% car battery is unexpected and hilariously unrelated electrical gremlins- including issues with the stability computer, ABS controller errors, thermometer readings (-40), bluetooth connectivity, key-fob detection, keyless entry error, and radio glitches (mine would not let me change the volume knob down, but only up- radio station would not change.) After replacing my battery with a new one, the radio issues disappeared. to diagnose this issue, 'jump' your Dodge Journey with either a fully charged jump pack, or another running car (meaning your dodge is using any of the power it needs from the other car, supplementing your own battery.) If the issue goes away while being connected by the jumper cables it's pretty clear the battery is your issue, or at least it's an avenue to explore. Weird right? Anyway. good luck.

My 2011 has the flip up passenger seat storage. It's a nice hiding place. The little pull strap is in the crease between the upper and lower back cushion. I think (and don't quote me on this) it's only on models WITHOUT heated seats. I don't think FCA would put the money forward to engineer a feature out of the Journey (if it was in the 2011, it's probably still the same in an equally equipped 2020 version) A neat feature I wish mine had (which I think the LUX had in 2011, and I think the previous models have) was the built in kid's booster seats in the mid-row.

The DJ was the spiritual successor to the Short-bed Dodge Caravan (It's why the rear doors open 89 degree outward, allowing comparable utility) Most CUV's will never go Off Road, and the DJ probably shouldn't either. I've taken it over a few low curbs and let's just say it's not set up at all of off-road (low ground clearance, llllloonggg wheelbase, poor turn radius). The 2011+ Dodge Journey Interior is perfection. FCA killed it (good) with the design which holds up very well today nearly 10 years later. Uconnect is a great UI and one of the best and easiest to use on the market even today. The best thing about the DJ is the 3.6 Pentastar. just shy of 300hp (yeah yeah 280hp) will get that thing rolling pretty fast for a minivan. DO NOT GET THE 4cyl. The drawback is the DJ isn't efficient. Don't get your hopes up that this thing will save you money on fuel. 18 average. 27 hwy. 16 cty. Best i did was at 70 mph across Canada dead flat on cruise control for 4 hours non- stop and got her up to 29mpg on regular (A/C Off, Windows UP). (while resetting the clock after reaching speed) There is truth in the bad press, but also benofit. The DJ is cheap. CHEAPO !!! . Try buying a 2013 RAV-4 will 60k miles for under 10K. Impossible. DJ? Here is one with 40k and it's only $8k. Why? People think the DJ is worst, that the driving experience is sluggish and it feels like a minivan- And that's the point. IT is supposed to be like that. I like the soft smooth ride more than my parent's bouncy hyper-reliable-Highlander (which has been in the shop 4x since new) which costs 2x more. This cheapness is why I got the Journey. Dollar per car, it's really hard to beat the DJ. The parts for the DJ are comparable inexpensive, as in true FCA fashion, they like to use old parts and old architecture on their cars as long as possible. I put from 30k miles to 100k miles on my Journey. Major repairs have been replacing the alternator at 90k miles, and changing the rotors at 65k miles. I change the oil when the computer tells me and I use 100% Synth, but the cheapest name-brand stuff i can get.

Agreed, change the batt, and consider swapping the alternator. I've gone through 2 batteries in 65k miles on my 2011. and changed my alternator at 90k miles. As far as making the battery change easy? My advice is to use WD40 on the plastic fasteners to make them easier to remove... Then if the Penetrant can't free the battery hold-down bolt,then break the bolt off and use 12-18 zip ties to hold it down. 10/10 backyard shade tree mechanic approved.

Sarcasm: I think you oughtta replace the transmission first, before checking the battery and alternator- Serious: Check your battery. Can you get it running on a jump from a jump-pack or another car? If so, you're looking at new battery and maybe a new alternator.

[Canadian:] Moose licks car = bad [American:] What's a moose? [Canadian:] It's like a deer, the size of an F-150:

OI, Minha Esposa e uma brasileira. Welcome to the forums! Glad you got the Dodge. Although us americans are sometimes jealous of the Fiat Freemont Manual Transmission / Diesel combo, Last time I was in Brazil i wished I had my Dodge (or anything with a V6) for the mountain highways. I got so tired of being overtaken in a cloud of burnt oil by Mareas and Fuscas in my economy Rental

Weird. Are you talking about the key-fob bell, or the Headlight bell? 1) The headlights/parking lights are on and ANY door is open. (the bell is silent if all the doors are closed) 2) The car does not detect the key-fob and the ignition is in either ACC or ON OR are you talking about the door ajar alarm while driving with the hatch open? I've never noticed the door ajar bell on the '11 DJ, but I suspect if it had, the wind noise or the loud radio cover it up while I drive. I don't know how to disable this if it exists. But I do know how annoying it can be from my parent's Toyota Minivan which will not shut up for a second if a door is ajar, or a seatbelt is unbucked.

Have a mechanic check the Alternator. Mine experienced similar symptoms as you described. (If) The alternator has failed, or is no longer providing the power to charge the car. Without the alternator, the car is desperately trying to maintain basic operation (driving) by killing non-essential processes. First on mine was the radio, then the HVAC, then the ABS, Speed Sensors, and eventually the engine sputtered to death after 40 minutes. If you delay, the new battery may also be permanently damaged, needing a possible replacement again. After changing the alternator on my car, the issues went away.

Digressing; dumb joke: You could re-route the wiper fluid into the new KN Filter, put gasoline in the wiper fluid reservoir, and then when you're pulling redline onto the freeway just click the switch for a little MAD MAX style passing power.

Can you jump the car, PUIloa? If the car is running, and you disconnect the jump-pack- does the car instantly die? if yes = check the alternator Check that the connections didn't come loose. It might have (as 5Rebl9 said) maybe the connections got loose at the battery side. Maybe the battery is shot. I had a new walmart battery die in 4 months. (I wasn't able to claim the warranty because the shop that installed the next one claimed the core charge...)

Good Luck, That doesn't seem good. There was a story of a person who just had air in their lines. I'd take it to a corner mechanic and have them pressure test the radiator. Unrelated story: Mt ex-Gf's car: I had poured a gallon of coolant into the radiator without any leaking out the bottom, and without the reservoir filling...I added another gallon... and another gallon... That seemed to keep the coolant level in the radiator full... problem solved? The car wouldn't crank. I checked the Dip, and it was frothing out the top. The dipstick filler neck was filled to the same level as the radiator fill cap with coolant with a small amount of oil mixed in. RIP, 1998 Chevy Malibu! - I figure one gallon when to the radiator, one gallon when to the cylinders, and the other gallon to top off the oil reservoir.

I like the headlights a lot. It makes me think if the Journey was ever given an exterior refresh, the headlights would have been a cross between what you have here, and the Pacifica. The amber fog lights are a nice aesthetic, while functionality being supplemented by the Lower-Grille Fog Lights. well done, a+ for form and function. I hope you sealed the headlight housings. I'd hate for water to get in there.

Perhaps borrow her car, and drive it for a few days and see if it acts suspicious. In summer, When I've had my A/C on while idling in a warm parking lot, the Radiator fan will run at full speed- That is not because the A/C is on, necessarily, but because the coolant is getting really hot because of the A/C My guess is that the fan is working normally, and the radiator's just getting up to that hi-temp which necessitates the higher fan speed. keep in mind you live at higher altitudes, so the air is less dense and provides less heat transfer- This results in more airflow being required (higher fan speed) to maintain proper cooling.

Aside from Sirius XM (which contains the GPS Receiver)... There might be more logistics involved after you install the radio. If you're buying a new 'plug-and-play' version, you shouldn't have issues, provided you follow the instructions the seller gives you. If you're pulling one from a scrap yard, make sure that you get the VIN# of the donor car. maybe take some pictures of the car, it's VIN, and that it's in the scrap yard. Reason: sometimes when the radio is pulled from a donor, the radio will think it is stolen, and will need to be unlocked to work fully. This is a dealership process, and requires 'proof' you didn't steal the radio, and the VIN of the donor to unlock the radio functions. (Disclaimer, I could be totally wrong.)

Are they trying to oversell you on oil changes, and other services down the road? yes. The dealer is wrong* as the manual clearly states the interval. The computer's Warning is more of a reminder. (It takes an empirical estimation of oil quality based on engine hours, average manifold pressure, engine temp, and miles driven, among other things) * That being said, although the dealer is 'wrong', That won't change the fact that your warranty might be in jeopardy if you don't change it with their terms. I'd read the Journey's manual, determine the actual interval, and then call and tell the service manager that "This is the FCA service interval, and that if the [dealership] doesn't follow this interval without voiding the lifetime warranty then I want a refund on the warranty- and I'll never have any service done at this dealership again."

oof I'm stumped. I'm no expert on the Navi system, so my tried and true method of un-plugging the battery just t didn't work. Did you try the reflash to the latest CTP, not a rollback? There was a thread like two days ago talking about it by someone else where someone was passing around a ... how do we say, less than legit, copy of the reflasher file. I really think you might just have to take the ol boy back to the dealer (Car Rite) and complain that it was 'like this from day one'

Joke reference: The holy battery reset: Thou shou disconnect the negative terminal and wait till 30 minute. Not 31minutes, nor 29 minutes unless thou shall immediately continue onto 30 minutes. In all seriousness, disconnect the negative terminal under the hood by the driver's strut. It's a 15mm bolt. let it sit 30 to 40 minutes. Then plug it back in. If the screen works again, but then a week later acts up, then maybe you're looking at a new battery or at WORST a rebuilt alternator in the next few months. Additional issues that may arise soon are the dash lights flicker, the low-fob-battery warning, and the comical yet annoying wiper blade going, the outside temp reading -40, among many things. These are just the dodge's friendly way of saying the battery might be going bad. Good luck!

I just changed mine because it broke. I bought the replacement off of amazon for 14 dollars. They said it was OEM, but it wasn't. Didn't matter- works great. Someone else said once that the shark fin was weak, and the short nubby antenna was also weak. I don't know- everytime i removed mine for hauling using the roof rail, the radio worked equal to when it was installed.

1) DO NOT get the 4cyl. you'll regret it. The V6 makes 100 more HP and has nearly identical city and hwy economy. If the 19 is in your budget for the 4cyl, drop 1 year and get the v6 for the same price. Please I beg you. as a total stranger on the interwebs, let this be the only thing you remember me by- 2) Trans and engine is as reliable as any other car. I'm only familiar with the 3.9 v6, 6sp auto - and cannot attest to the I4's 4sp reliability- but I've done from 30k to 100k miles on my 6sp without any major issue other than recently changing the alternator (and battery)... You can 'Expect' your 8yr/100k warranty to keep the powertrain working... but once that's gone, the car will be 8 years old, and you're going to have to accept that it's a used car and things, although rare, might break. 3) IDK, sorry I'm unaware of that part- but the 6sp and 4sp are tried and true through their entire fleet of sedans, minivans, and jeeps. I'm sure it's fine- and if you have an issue, it's a warranty claim away- at least for the next 7 years. (side note, don't all auto trans have a torque converter and clutch?). also, the 4spdesign is really old and has been used in many many cars and minivans through the early 2000's. the kinks are mostly worked out, I'd suspect. 4) yes, but barely. The 4cyl has a towing rating of 100lbs tongue and 1000 lbs trailer. the V6 has the 100lbs tongue and 2500lbs grosse trailer rating. You'll be able to do it both both, but don't expect to pass anyone on the freeway at all. The V6 on the other hand, you'll not even know the trailer is back there. You'll need to install aftermarket hitch, and later an after market wire harness, as FCA likes to nickel-and-dime you if you want the trailer lights to work. 5) Electrical Gremilins; it's an indication the battery is beginning to preform less than ideal, and needs to be replaced soon. That's about it. battery is in the wheel well. Use some wd40 to clean and lubricate the clips before you remove them. Don't break the thermal chip when disconnecting the negative terminal.

Yes, the alternator was the culprit. The new one's working great so far. took about 10 minutes of driving to make the belt chirp stop- but now all is good, no issues.