NavalLacrosse

Or, the bad advice: Do it with a garden hose (don't do this!)

WeLcomE to The CluLT of The JouRnEY

I'd say it's not likely. I'm still guessing it will be a Jeep CUV, or a Chrysler.

I have the exact ones they are recalling.

ALSO: SECONDLY: Coolant issue: I don't want you to go down a rabbit hole, but: If you're not low on coolant but it is overheating, It might be the thermostat. if you're still leaking/loosing coolant, check to see if the coolant is being burned by the engine (lots of smoke while driving) If this is the case, then you might be able to make a claim under the extended Pentastar (if you have the V6) warranty that covers a gasket failures that occurred on 2011 and 2012 engines. It's 10y, 150k mile, i think.... It's Unlikely that this is your issues, though. Finally, my two cents Based on your description of leasing it, it implies that you got it from a shady dealership. I'm just spitballing here, but: I'd go back and tell them about it. They leased-to-own you a car with a bad battery, and it probably was already leaking coolant when they sold it to you (meaning they might have filled the coolant with radiator 'liquid stop-leak' (which is known to guck up the thermostat valves of all types of cars). There is a small chance they will fix it, or at a minimum change the battery for free... afterall, they'll make more money by keeping it drivable, and making you pay their monthly rate- Seeing as the alternative is you stop paying them, and return the car to them. What are they going to do? dent your credit score more from you terminating the lease early? Again, that's just my two cents. I've not been where you are, in this regard. Good luck OP

let's get to work : It's a right of passage all DJ owners seem to face: I think the electrical issues are most likely indicating the battery is failing. With anything less than a battery at 100% performance, the electrical gremlins come out to play. (radio, BT, volume, dashboard, wipers, headlights all act funny; "gremlins") To troubleshoot this, try the go-to-fix all of all things: 1) disconnect the negative terminal under the hood. (there is even a nifty plastic loop to keep it disconnected from the ground) 2) wait 30 minutes. 3) plug it back in. 4) see if the issues all went away! This is usually a temporary fix, and issues might come back after a few minutes. (meaning, it //might// be possible to do this trick to sneak past the state inspection, but i'd not put money on in working, as the problem will resume eventually, if not, during the inspection) Don't over think the problem: Try the simple solution first: Start by doing the simplest and most likely fix: Replacing the battery with a new one. Goodyear charged me 169 ish dollars installed for their brand. Please note that some walmarts and Autozones will go "NOPE" you when you ask them to change the battery on the Journey (it's in the wheel well, and can be a pain)

As far as shifting from 1st to 2nd, that transition happens at under 5mph. I think it's other gears, as the journey really doesn't like to keep first in 1st any longer than absolutely necessary. from my experience, I know that my daily commute is at 45mph, and the transmission shifts to 6th at exactly 45mph , and downshifts at to 5th at 43mph. It shifts frequently (once every 15-30 seconds, depending on if i'm coasting or accelerating). It does is really smoothly, and isn't noticeable, other than the bump up in fuel economy at 45mph. I'm also guilty of slipping in gears 1-6 to control my speed in grid-lock creep-traffic-jams at under 7mph. (foot OFF the accelerator, put it in lower gear accelerate, and progressively select higher gears maintain and gain speed, and 5th/6th to reduce speed) (reduce speed by using 6th gear? but how? Thanks for asking!: by inducing a torque converter stall by forcing 6th gear while at idle, you lose power transfer to the axle, allowing you to deccelerate as if you're in almost-neutral)

The Pentastar is pretty much all you're going to get right out of the box. It's not bad, as is, all things considered. There are the 'bro science' solutions that many people implement, but really don't do much good other than noise, and placebo effect into thinking the car is faster. Performance intake filter, either by just buying a better brand stock style filter or doing a CAI with an Airbox. Exhaust modifications. There are common utility mods, which are great i0n their respective ways: Trailer hitch, harness, brake controllers Brake rotor upgrades if you're in the mountains. Headlight Upgrades (bulb swaps), Brush guards There are less common mods which are good, but blur the line between aesthetic and usefulness: Lift kits, stanced, with big wheels (off road improvements, despite the "Don't take me off road plz" AWD system) Lowering kits, Stanced, with aftermarket wheels (street cred, possibly handling advantages if you pour money at it) Lightbars** There are fully aesthetic or joy mods: Scoops, wings, Rallye Lights, Decals, Vinyl stripes, Light Kits, PLASTIDIP anything and everything that is not black, Aftermarket amps+subs, Front window tints, If you want to look into tuning, I'd recommend checking out the Charger, and Challanger forums for what those guys to to bump up their 3.8 Pentastars. Just know there aren't much to do.

Really, Try and go for the v6! You're talking 100 HP difference in power, and only sacrificing 1-2 mpg combined.

Also, If you don't already: Buy Rain-X glass treatment (either the spriter, or the wet-wipe application). read and follow the instructions. Apply it to your windshield, side windows, and rear, on every car you own. You'll use your blades 1/4 as frequent as the water will bead and fly off the windshield at anything over 50mph, eliminating the need for wipers on the highway. I use it on both my cars, and I love it.

If the blades on your 2011 Ford are so great, purchase the same brand and put them on the Dodge. $75 dollars is a bit steep for a full set of blades, but that kind of money can get you a good set of Rainex, or other name brand. (Note the the rear blade is only sold in one brand, and will be expensive.) If you're willing to accept frequent blade changes, 12.99 per blade on the front from walmart, and 15.99(?) for the rear. Change them yourself, and pocket the extra 20 dollars for the next time the blades fail. (Edit: Realized you're from Ontario. $75 CAD sounds about right for blades) Double edit: Probably a lost cause, but if your car is under the bumber to bumber still, you might be able to get the dealership to repair it for free.

I'm totally not an expert, Although I'm thinking that the Pentastar is not high enough performance engine to depend on backpressure, or lack thereof. It's my gut feeling (based on literally nothing, as I said I've got no expertise) is that you're not going to see any measurable gain or loss, provided you keep the pipe diameter the same, and run it aproximatly the whole length of the OEM's system. I'd leave the existing pipe because: if it sounds good as is, no reason to remove it, as it reduces the amount of extra cost in fabricating a replacement segment. I'm thinking you're best looking at the information on the Charger and Challenger V6 performance forums, because you'll likely get better information on straight-piping, or cat-backing the Pentastar.

Did you add any lift / spacers to the suspension? even an inch would make the car look souper.

The Cruise control problem is a (someone more) common issue in the entire FCA lineup. Mine has the issue too, although I've learned that it seems to be temp-dependant (usually if the AC or heat is is blowing directly on the wheel near my hand). usually if the cruise isn't coming on I've got to 'thud' the wheel hard to get it to work again. I'm pretty sure the repair' is to replace the switch assembly which is acting up.

I've driven mine from 32k to 90k and I've not needed anything but a new battery and brakes. - replace cylinder heads (TWICE!) Sounds like bad luck. There was a gasket recall on early Pentastar engines, which FCA extending a special warranty to fix just the Left-hand gasket (15yr/150k miles?) Hopefully the powertrain has been taking care you you both times anyway? At what mileage did these occur? - replace oil filter housing assembly because it is made of plastic and cracks easily I've never had an issue with my OEM oil filter plastic-bit. comes off easy, goes on easy. I've never had an easier car to change the oil on. Are you lubing-up the thread when you put it on? someone else mentioned the wrong filter ... Maybe this is causing it to get stuck? are you reefing down on the cap? from my experience, it really doesn't take much to tighten. - pull fuse on horn so it doesn't beep constantly - swap batteries due to unknown draining - turn off radio and the climate control so it doesn't run while parked overnight - rear wiper only works (partially) when the transmission is in reverse - the emergency brake indicator comes on while going down the highway - the airbag indicator comes on intermittantly is the BCM failing/filled with water? If all these symptoms are grouped together, it seems like a BCM issue. - you can't get out of the car with the fob in your pocket with people in the car because the door chime will never stop. This is by design. To let you know you've left the key outside the car. Frustrating for anyone who is forced to sit inside the car and listen to it (say, when you're gassing up in the winter an want to keep the occupants warm). There is no way around this other than leaving the key in the car (which is what I do when I leave my wife in the car and I get sometime from inside the store).

Nice! mine was never changed, but from 30k to 90k miles I've not had any issues.

Most likely the 12v battery is dying; Try jump starting the car for a temporary solution if you need to drive immediatly. Later, when you get to a mechanic, or an automotive store, ask them to test the battery/alternator. I'm thinking that the battery is weak/dying. It will need to be replaced. (It's in the Left-side wheel wheel). When the condition of the battery is less than perfect, the computer, and most of the electrical components tend to give mysterious issues. It is a common issue with this car, as well as most other modern cars. Once the battery is replaced, these issues will likely disappear. Goodluck! (If you're in the USA, goodyear service center charged me 160 dollars for a battery+labor. All my local walmarts refused to change the Dodge Journey battery because of it's slightly frustrating location.)

Most likely the 12v battery is dying. Try jump starting the car for a temporary solution. Later, have the 12v tested, and replaced. (It's in the Left-side wheel wheel). When the condition of the battery is less than perfect, the electrical components tend to give issues. I'll repost this response in your other thread. Goodluck!

My new addition: 2013 Chevrolet Volt. And my DJ in the background.

I test a 2012 v6 mustang convertible, and ultimately wasn't thrilled (There wasn't any joy from the car). The V8's are out of my willingness to pay. (Side note, the mustang convertible weights the same as the Dodge Journey, and only generates 20+ HP. It's nearly the same performance in a straight line...) I could get a decent lease on the new Blazer with the GM employee incentives (230/mo) but I've got a bone to pick with GM about how they screw us on lease deals, so I wont give them my money yet... (maybe for the Journey's replacement in 1 year, though.... ) I mentioned equinox in my original comment, the the price for GM employees on the 2021 MY are really high, so Blazer is the cheaper option for me. I bought a used Chevrolet Volt, 2013 Base, with 90,000 miles on it. I'm 100% in the honeymoon phase right now, but It's super great not needing to pay for gasoline for my work-home commute. Free chargers at work really made it worth it for me to go with the VOLT. I'm only 11 miles from work, so every day I can still come home from work and get another 28 miles of 'free diving' from charging at work. Yes, it takes 12hrs on 110v(8a) to give full charge (38 miles), but as I said, I only need 11 miles to get to that sweet sweet 240v 20a charger at work, so as long as my car is on the 110v charger for 4 hrs each night, I get a full day's worth of electric goodness. My wife will drive the journey when I'm at work. She'll ultimately want to sell it off to buy a more fuel efficient SUV... But for now, I get to see my DJ parked in the rear-spots of the condo every day I drive my volt to work. :p

WELCOME, Eh! I'll do my best to translate to canadian: Dont'cha worry now 'boot ya gas consumption, friend. Sorry it isn't better, but you'll get 10.2 km/litre on the royal highway, and 6.8 km/litre on the roads in tha city. Welcome to the fourm, buddy. In all seriousness, the journey is a great car in the sense that (in true FCA fashion) it is a modern car, with old style mechanical bits. I've had no issues with basic maintenance, and the bits you cant do won't cost a ton because corner mechanics can easily handle even the most complex mechanical journey problem.

Legend has it he is still there; ''jimmying' the key in the lock....

The literal fording depth?: Look at the snorkel under the hood. it breaths from the hood seam. I'm sure the car will fail/float long before that depth of water is reached; The battery is in the wheel well, so you'll likely lose electrics with water above the bottom of the headlights. High Milage?: No idea. PentaSTAR V6 is the go to engine for all things FCA. I'm sure there is some airport 2011 caravan out there with the Pentastar V6 and 6sp trans has done A LOT of miles. Make sure to check the warranty; FCA extended a intake gasket warranty on 1st gen Pentastars. (10y/150k?) ... Do yourself a favor, if the engine starts smoking, check that gasket before it bricks the Catalytic Conv.

2011 here, 89k and climbing. No issues (other than needing to change the battery when the gremlins came out that one time...) 2012 might be susceptible to the undersized brake 'issue', which means check your brakes for excessive wear around 30k mile intervals. You got her the V6? I hope so, the I4 is less 100 hp, and gets the same fuel economy. My wife like driving the Journey a lot, and even more now that she's drove an old 'jeep clone' (Ford Troller) off road for 30 miles, and has been driving global econoboxes the past three months(Chevy Onix, Fiat Uno, VW Gol), she always tells me she wishes she had the journey in Brazil, because it handles turns in the long mountains climbs better than the 90hp econo-hatches she rents. Wife's complaints are: The blind spots are massive (she's used to small sub-compacts; the DJ blind spots are normal if you're used to big/modern cars) The fuel economy is poop in the city (16 mpg city, is our average), and 18 for mixed is pretty much on par for minivans and SUVs. Turning radius is too big. (again, she like sub-compacts) Difficult to estimate rear bumper distance when in revered because: No rear camera, makes backing up difficult for her. Automatic transmissions "Feel Slow" although, my wife drives manual all the time, the journey's V6's 6sp slush box is objectively slow, but hella smooth. It's the same car her step-uncle drives, and she has a negative predisposition, as it's "a car my uncle would drive" She likes: hella comfy front seat, seating position, and automatic HVAC Boston Speakers are not loud, but fairly clear. super well laid out control scheme of HVAC, radio (stack, and on steering wheel), Cruise control, and U connect (4.2) is really intuitive, and easy to use while driving. V6 can do (normal by american standard) hard pulls on the freeway (although she hates the slow downshifts) it can easily overtake semis. Car's never given her a single problem at all EVER, Finally, The Dodge Journey is a strong reputation in Brazil; The Fiat Fremont is the main fair for I4 and diesel, but the Journey is the V6 Pentastar powered "well-off respectable person's car"; In the US it's like "meh- can't afford a compass"; in brazil it's "Que Legal"

I've had my DJ for about 2-2/3 years. Me and the wife have been sharing the one car. It's working really well, but now is the time to get a second car for her to have 100% of the time. And before we go any further: Yes, I know the DJ is the perfect addition as a second car- from a price point, and by familiarity, it makes sense.... but the boss says "I want a car that is fun, and youthful, and doesn't look like the DJ" So, here we are. Ideal cost: $5,000 usd Max allotted: $12,000 usd My front runners (used) Chevy Volt 2012-2019. Ford Mustang 2011+ (Convertible, or GT) Camaro 2010+ (Convertible, or SS) Escape Hybrid 2009+ (and 2013+, any powertrain) My front runners (New-Lease, All GM because # I work for GM) 2020(21?) Trailblazer (It's a chevy trax, but bigger.) 2020 Silverado (because employee leases are cheap - <$250/mo) 2021 equinox (new body style)