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Found 14 results

  1. wife was driving to work, then car died, as if alternator was dead and battery drained - even did the flickery lights thing when batteries die. Towed home, pulled battery and alternator, tested at AutoZone. Both tested good (battery has 94% charge!). Reinstalled. checked for bad ground/loose wiring - no luck. voltmeter on Jumper terminals = 2.18 volts. Voltmeter on battery = 12.54 volts. pulled every fuse while monitoring voltage at jumper terminals but no change and all fuses tested good, none blown. I'm thinking BCM is bad, but I don't know how to verify this. Another post on here, someone said that it was their battery temp sensor, but don't know how to test that either. The car is a 2011 Dodge Journey Express 2.4l v4. I just replaced the starter and crankshaft position sensor about 1 month ago and it was fine ever since. I found out that the CPS was going bad when I got AutoZone to read the codes, but during that it also said there was something wrong with the BCM. Still, considering they are $250 I want to make sure I'm not wasting my money guessing at the actual problem. Any advice? Thanks
  2. Approx 3 weeks ago battery saver light came on while driving home. All warning lights came on shortly after (20minutes)into drive. Car started losing gear. Made it home. Had alternator checked by two different places. Says its fine. Had battery replaced. Was ok for one day then it happened again after sitting overnight. Currently waiting for tow as it wont start after picking kids up from school. (2min trip). What is wrong???? Any ideas would be helpful.
  3. Concise version: Car sits outdoors for 2 weeks. Temps outside are 32F. No electric power, no unlock, no dome lights, obviously no cranking power. 1) Ask for jump, successfully cranked the car. All systems running normal while connected to the jumper's car's power. 2) disconnect jumpers after about 30 seconds. 3) 15 seconds of normal operation, then overhead lights pulse on-off-on-off twice a second, radio on off, some warning lights on-off (mainly traction control, tire pressure) then engine stalls- zero electric power (dome lights dead), and tachometer is stuck at last reading 1,500 RPM (What i was Reving-to hoping to keep the power flowing, stepper motors didn't have power to return the tach to zero). 4) jump again. instantly, on jumper's power, gauges return to zero, and the car systems are restored to normal operation while on jumper. Crank engine, starts no issue. All systems normal. 5) removed jumpers, systems function properly for 15 seconds, then same as before, pulsing overhead lights, some lights on dash, 15 more seconds the engine stalls, tach and fuel gauge frozen (steppers without power) my troubleshooting: voltage at the under-hood battery mains while connected to the car: 0.3v. I disconnect the negative terminal here, and test the the neg-to-pos voltage: 3.4v. Note, battery is 3 months old. Hypothisis: 1) Terminals corroded (I'll freeze my butt off, but i'll check this next) 2) Bad battery temp sensor. No idea how to diagnose. 3) Bad Alternator (and dead/depleted batt.) Coming home from my wonderful tropical vacation to see my Wife in Brazil, I get home and rush to get to work the same day... only to call in an tell them my dodge wouldn't start. I work at GM, so they gave me a hard time, but understood that as I am driving a FCA product, there is an understanding that occasionally it won't work. Any suggestions? (other than abandoning the car and flying back to Brazil permanently?) I'll update when It's fixed
  4. I've been enjoying the use of a ham radio in my 2010 Journey for quite a few years, it is powered by a rooftop solar panel with accompanying 300 amp hour of gel battery storage in the rear of the vehicle. Starting about a month ago, I began hearing a popping and crackling noise from my ham radio speaker when I travel at freeway speeds or I'm accelerating. If I release my foot from the gas pedal, the noise goes away. It is most apparent when I accelerate the vehicle down an entrance ramp to merge onto a freeway. When I maintain highway speeds of 60+ mph, the popping and crackling noise drowns out any reception I get on the radio. Here's the funny thing: I commute to work 73 miles each way and the popping and crackling disappears after 35-45 minutes of highway driving. When I return home in the evening, I have the same popping and crackling for the same 35-45 minutes of drivetime, then the noise disappears no matter what highway speed I maintain on the way home. Could the noise be a sign of a bad alternator diode or another electrical problem related to the charging of the vehicle's battery? This is the 4-cylinder Journey and I have 175,000 miles on it, original alternator, battery replaced about a year ago at the local Dodge dealer.
  5. So my car won't start. things that have happened 1. wouldn't start but after a boost it would be fine for few days. 2. Changed battery, lasted few days then needed a boost again. 3. Took to mechanic, changed out the alternator. 4. Next day car is going crazy lights off and radio off and on. I take it back. Turns out wrong alternator was bought. Switched out for proper one. 5. Started happening again. But not right away. Took it to work. Started going crazy again. See attached to see what it's doing. http://sendvid.com/fyd4o133 6. After driving with it doing this. Now car won't start at all. left battery boosting for 30mins. Nothing. Once I disconnect booster cables. Car lights go out. planning to check the battery connections tomorrow and make taking the battery out to make sure it's all good. Any other ideas to get car started at least? when trying to start it only gives a little click and small try to turn but not enough. Also noticed the lightning bolt is lite up now.
  6. Replaced the alternator on my 2012 Dodge Journey SXT, new battery, and vehicle now is showing no power whatsoever. Don't know what else to try, really in need of help with this.
  7. Hi Everyone, New here but looking for some advice. I have a 2015 Journey with the 4 cylinder. (My dad is a mechanic and I'm pretty mechanically inclined myself so this one really does stump us both.) I have replaced the battery 3 times thinking the battery is some how at fault and now I'm thinking I have a charging system problem because while I have 14.4 volts at the battery and at the back of the alternator with the vehicle running it never fully charges the battery. I have fully charged the battery with a charger to a full resting voltage of 12.64 volts and done a stress (heavy load) test and it snaps back no problem. It also holds this full charge over night. After a few days of normal driving though it will drop down to 11.5 volts resting voltage when the car is shut-down despited driving for long trips (highway mainly) with charging voltage of 14.4v all the time. It's like it just isn't pushing enough current back into the battery and slowly wears it down after a few days. Then I have to drag out my big charger and charge it up manually. I have turned on all the accessories and load tested the alternator and it maintains 14 volts with all the stuff running at idle and still managed to put out 10 amps current on top of this. I'm really at a loss. I have traced all the wiring and looked for corroded / loose connections and have done a voltage drop test both on the Positive / Negative sides of the charging circuit and it checks out fine. I even had the alternator off and taken it in to be tested and it tests properly. The only thing I can think it might be is the Thermistor (Temperature Sensor) on the battery possibly being bad and maybe affecting the amount of current that is allowed to be pushed into the battery or the ECU is some how signaling to the alternator to keep the voltage high but the current low??? Any help would be great and I thank you in advance. Steve
  8. musicdj

    2012 journey, while driving it went dead. had it jumped went about 30 miles and it died again. got it going, and just before it died again the battery light came on. at first I just figured the alternator no good, but I noticed the rpm's were higher than normal. can it be the alternator is over charging. got new battery same thing. no other lights have gone on thanks.
  9. I've been having issues starting my 2010 Journey (2WD 6 cyl, 3.5 L, Automatic 6-spd) and I'm convinced it may be a bad starter. I replaced the battery in January and just replaced the alternator a few days ago after my car would not start and a horrible smell permeated through the vents when attempting to start multiple times. New alternator is in and now when I turn the key to attempt to start the engine, I get nothing, no sounds whatsoever. Lights are on and do not dim when attempting to start. Can anyone advise where exactly the starter is located? I have not been able to find the location of the starter and have not found any indication of where it may be online. Any help would be much appreciated. Pictures of starter location would be even better.
  10. I have an issue with the 2009 Journey SE 2.4. I have a new battery and a alternator that is functioning properly. The alternator will put out 14 or so volts, but within 5 minutes it gets so hot that is will sizzle if you spit on it. Then it stops putting out power and the car eventually will run the battery down. I have changed out the wire on the alternator and ran it direct to the jump terminal, and it will put out 14 or so volts until it heats up and stops working. Is there a fuse or relay for the alternator anywhere, I do not see one marked in the fuse box? The alternator is functioning until it overheats. I have changed out 3 alternators so I know it is not the alternator, I suspect a wiring problem somewhere but unsure where? Any ideas? -DS
  11. 2010 DJ, 76K mi, 2.4 FWD, - My alternator bearing went about 5 months ago and I bought a rebuilt OEM replacement online Amazon. Got it and installed with new belt and all was well for 3 months. I started getting the same intermittent start issue that ALL JOURNEY owners seem to get and it turns out my lead to the starter solenoid was corroded so I fixed that and it stopped. Another month goes and the battery warning light comes on, I get car home and test and it APPEARS to have only 12V across the terminals while running. I am not 100% sure because I had to test across the jumper terminal and I was thinking that might not give me an accurate reading. Anyway I put car on trickle charger overnight so I can drive the 4 miles to work and back the next day waiting for new alternator to arrive. The battery did NOT discharge at all by the end of the driving, I tested it and it was at full amps and volts. call and order the first replacement alternator and get that 2 days later (Thanks Amazon Prime!) put in new belt too and hook up and all is right with the world. So I thought. A month later i get the SAME battery warning light again! I test the battery again and full up and I drive that DJ for a solid week with NO PROBLEM! The battery is fully charged! Because its 4 months old I call Prime and get a free replacement alternator again in 2 days! (woo hoo) and installed that one WITH A BRAND NEW HEAVY DUTY BATTERY - so now I have brand new battery, brand new alternator. There was no problem I could test with the old alternator. 2 WEEKS later the battery light comes on gain! !!!! Now there is whole new electrical charging system with this same issue. Weird thing is that if I take off the small field sensor wire for awhile, even now, the battery warning light does not come back on right away. Sometimes takes a half hour or more! Other times it comes on right when I start the car. I tried looking to see if the wires were damaged somehow but I can not see any issue with that connector or leads but it seems to be every time I fiddle with the wires the light does not come on again right away. This is absolutely insane, does ANYONE have any idea what the ghost is in the machine????
  12. I have a 2009 Dodge Journey R/T, and everything was working fine until one day I noticed that occasionally while driving the stereo and navigation system display would get all distorted and then lose power completely. A couple minutes later however it would power on again. A few days later I went to start the vehicle (and it had been running earlier that day) and it would not start. It just made a clicking sound as if the battery had been drained. I used another vehicle with jumper cables to start it, and it fired up right away. However, in order to keep it running I had to press on the gas to keep the engine rpm up to at least 2000 rpm or so. If I left it to idle, the battery warning light symbol would come on, and all the other warning lights would light up just as they do when you turn the key on before starting the engine. Pressing on the gas a bit would make these lights go off as well as the battery one. If left to idle any longer the engine would just die after a couple of minutes. I thought it might have been the battery causing the problems so I put a charger on it for a while and was still unable to start the vehicle. I removed the battery, charged it up and used a tester on it. It is rated for 640 CCA and tested at 590 and at a voltage of 12.9 V. The tester indicated that the battery was good. When I tried using a different vehicle jumpered on to the battery connections of this vehicle, It would not start it either. The dash lights would light up when connected and the power locks would make a sound like they were trying to work. Only the rear power windows would work not the front ones. It appears there is next to no current available from the electrical system to run these components. When I removed the cables after having been attached only a couple of minutes, and also when I had the battery attached to the vehicle and had the battery charger on it, I noticed that the alternator became VERY hot to the touch. This was not when the vehicle was running - only when it was charging from either the battery charger or from being jumpered on to another vehicle's battery. It appears nearly all of the current flowing into the electrical system is being lost to the form of heat at the point of the alternator, judging from how hot that alternator became. Could this indicate a bad alternator? Is there some component of an alternator such as a diode or something that could be causing a short within the system that is draining the battery and preventing it from starting the vehicle? Or is it possible that there is a short somewhere else? The fact that the alternator got so hot made me think that it could be at that point where the problem is, but I thought maybe it could be anywhere along the circuit and the whole thing may in fact heated up like that, but I thought a fuse would've blown somewhere or something. If I can save the expense of having it towed/hauled to a garage that would be great because I live in a rural area and a repair shop is quite a distance away from me. Thanks very much for any advice
  13. Hello fellow DJ owners. I have just completed the "big three" on my 2014 Journey. I did this in preparation for my aftermarket sound system i will be installing soon. I recommend that ANYBODY planning on adding an aftermarket amp or other high current devices to your DJ do the big three. The factory wiring under the hood in these vehicles is sub-par at best. The factory ground from the battery to chassis was maybe 8 gauge. Anybody adding anything electronic wise will benefit from this upgrade . The job was not terribly difficult to accomplish however gaining access to the battery terminals was a pit of a pain. It took a couple of hours but i was taking my time, everything worked out perfect, no problems. If you do a big three be sure to fuse the alternator to to battery positive. There is some debate whether this is necessary or not. You should always fuse within a foot of the battery. As for the sound system goes here it is: I am keeping the factory base 4.3 Uconnect, Relocating the rear door 6x9's to the far rear panels(there are "dummy" grills back there, for premium sound system maybe?) and keeping the dash 3.5's, and removing the stock front door 6x9's This is to maintain a load on the factory head unit so it will continue to send a signal to all four channels. (the 4.3 has six speakers but only four channels, the dash and front doors are wired in parallel) I will be tapping into those signals at the factory speakers using an AudioControl LC7i, then to my Polk 5 channel amp and out to my new Polk component speakers in the doors, and a Polk 8" sub woofer under the driver seat in a seald box build by myself(yes i got it to fit, barely). So i will end up with this: dash 3.5 and far rear 6x9's will receive stock head unit's 15 watts, and new components in the doors will get amplified 70 watts rms and 200 to the sub. So there it is in a nutshell. I will post an update once it is complete or if i have any problems with my plan i will let you know. I wanted to post and contribute something to these forums. I have been doing alot of reading on here and have gotten some good info.And now it is my time to give something back.
  14. I have a 2009 Journey R/T with 3.6L V6 AWD and for a while have been experiencing battery drain whenever the vehicle is left for more than a few hours. After several unsuccessful attempts at finding out the cause for this, I decided to temporarily install a 500A switch to isolate the battery from the rest of the vehicle's electrical system, to prevent having to jumpstart the vehicle every morning. This has been effective in this regard for a while now, however, the other day while travelling on the highway the vehicle started experiencing a loss of power for a second or so, then power would be restored, and this would randomly repeat for the remainder of my trip. Then, upon my arrival at my destination city, when coming up to a stop sign and the engine idled down, the power loss occurred again only this time the engine died. When I attempted to start it immediately after this, I found there was no charge left in the battery whatsoever - no dash lights,no sound....couldn't even shift from park without using the manual release button. I then used a charged battery to boost the vehicle, and it fired up, but after continuing to drive a short distance, the same thing happened again, I then noticed the battery symbol for the charging system had appeared. Then the vehicle could only been driven with limited power and only without using any headlights for a short time (constantly requiring me to press the accelerator to prevent idling too low) before it would die again with the battery drained. I have checked all the connections, all the cables, swapped the battery for a different one, removed the battery and jumpered it directly to another running vehicle, all with the same result. It will fire up, and run for a short time, then the charging system symbol will light up, and the engine will die shortly thereafter. It will run for a while jumpered to another vehicle, but even during this time the warning light will still come on. I removed the alternator and had it tested - it passed all tests and I was told it was good. I should also mention that this alternator was purchased and installed just 8 or 9 months ago, and the battery was only purchased a month or two ago. The belts appears to be working properly and with the correct amount of tension, and as far as I can see all of the conncections are solid and free of corrosion, etc. I'm uncertain as to where I should go from here, and after being left stranded several hours from home for a few days now (everywhere being closed for Christmas) and the expense of hotel rooms, I don't wish to throw a bunch more money away for the dealership to try all the things I've already tried, with no guarantee of results. I am planning to run a diagnostic tomorrow to see if this yields any additional information as to the possible cause of the problem, but am hoping maybe another forum member could provide some insight if they have encountered a similar issue in the past. Thanks in advance for your assistance.