Journey_SeXT

P0452 Dodge P0452 Dodge - EVAP Pressure Switch Stuck Closed
Possible causes - Faulty Evaporative Emission System (EVAP) Pressure sensor
- EVAP purge hose/tube obstruction
- Evaporative Emission System (EVAP) Pressure sensor harness is open or shorted
- Evaporative Emission System (EVAP) Pressure sensor circuit poor electrical connection
What does this mean? Tech notes There is a factory service bulletin for the following Dodge models:

2009 Dodge Journey
2007-2009 Dodge Sebring
2007-2009 Dodge Avenger
2007-2009 Dodge Sebring Convertible
2008 Dodge Town & Country
2008 Dodge Voyager
2008 Dodge Caravan

The factory service bulletin recommends reprogramming the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) to repair the problem.
What does this mean? When is the code detected? An excessively low voltage from the sensor is sent to Engine Control Module (ECM). Possible symptoms - Engine Light ON (or Service Engine Soon Warning Light) P0452 Dodge Description The Evaporative Emission System (EVAP) control system pressure sensor detects pressure in the purge line. The sensor output voltage to the Engine Control Module (ECM) increases as pressure increases. The EVAP control system pressure sensor is not used to control the engine system. It is used only for on board diagnosis.
DODGE Technical Service Bulletin for Code P0452
What is this Bulletin Number: SB-1800309 REVC Bulletin Date: 2009-06-11 Component:
100000 Power Train Summary
Chrysler/jeep/dodge: flash-driveability improvements or mil illumination diagnostic trouble code p0452-evap pressure switch stuck closed. includes my09 town&country; voyager and caravan. *pe

A Journey young in age as yours does not need any additives except for a bottle of fuel system cleaner every 2nd oil change. The oils and engines now have made the use of oil additives a thing of the past. If you want thick oil then use 10w30 (not recommended) but don't waste your money by adding that goo in your engine.

Removal
REMOVAL


NOTE

Before proceeding, review all Warnings and Cautions. (Refer to Front Suspension/Front - Warning)




Raise and support the vehicle. (Refer to Vehicle Quick Reference/Hoisting - Standard Procedure)


TIRE AND WHEEL MOUNTING



Remove the wheel mounting nuts (3), then the tire and wheel assembly (1).


HUB NUT



While a helper applies the brakes to keep the hub from rotating, remove the hub nut (1) from the axle half shaft (2).



Access and remove the front brake rotor. (Refer to Brakes/Hydraulic/Mechanical/ROTOR, Brake - Removal)


FRONT HUB AND BEARING MOUNTING



Remove the four bolts (2) fastening the hub and bearing to the knuckle (3).



Slide the hub and bearing (1) off the half shaft and out of the knuckle.





Installation
INSTALLATION


FRONT HUB AND BEARING MOUNTING


Install the hub and bearing (1) by sliding it over the half shaft and into the knuckle.



Install the four bolts (2) fastening the hub and bearing (1) to the knuckle (3). Tighten the four bolts to 48 N·m (35 ft. lbs.).



Install the brake rotor, disc brake caliper and adapter. (Refer to Brakes/Hydraulic/Mechanical/ROTOR, Brake - Installation)


HUB NUT


NOTE

Always install a new hub nut. The original hub nut is one-time use only and should be discarded when removed.





Clean all foreign matter from the threads of the half shaft outer C/V joint.



Install the hub nut (1) on the end of the half shaft (2) and lightly tighten it.



While a helper applies the brakes to keep the hub from rotating, tighten the hub nut (1) to 160 N·m (118 ft. lbs.).


TIRE AND WHEEL MOUNTING



Install the tire and wheel assembly (1) (Refer to 22 - Tires and Wheels - Installation). Install and tighten wheel mounting nuts (3) to 135 N·m (100 ft. lbs.).



Lower the vehicle.

Thanks for the the detailed write up frogbox! Good Job!!

With all of the factors given I would say that is quite decent. As Bigtsr mentioned a little slower and the fuel consumption would be better. I averaged 7.8 L/ 100 km last year to Florida.

For some reason I thought it would have been like a $39.99 update so when I saw $150 I was a little shocked. I think I'll still keep using my trusty GPS map.

Yeah, just don't reset it after a fill up and before a long line up at the car wash. My Accent resets itself automatically after every fill up and the wait at the wash brought the reading to 99.9L/100 km's.

No...if you read the post above yours instruction #4 iswhat you need to do without removing the bumper.

How soon you guys forget....http://www.dodgejourneyforum.com/topic/6837-how-to-change-spark-plugs-on-a-2012-dj-with-v6-and-question-on-rough-idle/

I'm in favour of black. It's not flashy but make it does make it look a little meaner.

Hey RTM thanks for letting us know that you had a good time in T.O.! We always enjoy having our southern U.S. neigbours/neighbors visiting us. As an FYI for our U.S. friends our dollar sucks right now at about 76 cents to the American dollar so your money will take you a little further out here now.

Great! Thanks for the info Moparman! I checked at Rockauto and they only showed the bigger brakes sizes for the R/T models so I'm glad that if I want the option of bigger brakes I can go ahead with it.

Upper
UPPER





Disconnect and isolate the negative battery cable.



Remove the engine cover (1).






Remove the resonator (1) (Refer to Engine/Air Intake System/RESONATOR, Air Cleaner - Removal).






Disconnect the electrical connectors from the Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor (1) and the Electronic Throttle Control (ETC) (7).



Disengage the ETC harness from the clip (8) on the throttle body. Disengage the wire harness retainers (4 and 5) from the upper intake manifold near the MAP sensor and reposition the wire harness.



Disconnect the following hoses from the upper intake manifold:


Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) (3)



vapor purge (6)



brake booster (2)








Disengage the wire harness retainer (4) from the upper intake manifold support bracket (5).



Disengage the wire harness retainer (3) from the studbolt (2).



Remove two nuts (1), loosen the studbolt (2) and reposition the upper intake manifold support bracket (5).






Remove the nut (2) from the support bracket of the heater core return tube (1).






Remove two nuts (1), loosen two studbolts (3) and reposition the two upper intake manifold support brackets (2).





NOTE

The upper intake manifold attaching bolts are captured in the upper intake manifold. Once loosened, the bolts will have to be lifted out of the lower intake manifold and held while removing the upper intake manifold.




NOTE

Exercise care not to inadvertently loosen the two fuel rail attachment bolts that are in close proximity of the upper intake manifold attaching bolts.





Remove seven manifold attaching bolts (1) and remove the upper intake manifold (2).






Remove and discard the six upper to lower intake manifold seals (1).



Cover the open intake ports to prevent debris from entering the engine.

With all the brake talk on this forum its hard to believe we missed that one.

I agree with this... I would consider battery replacement.

Are you still using the original battery? If so, I would check the voltage. Slightly low voltage will cause all sorts of havoc with the electronics.

Gasoline will take it off the glass. I once had a guy run over a purple spray can lying on the road beside me and it exploded spraying purple everywhere. The gas worked like a charm. Don't use the gas on fresh paint!
One thing. No smokes while doing this......
H.P.

For the windows I always use a razor blade, held at 45deg angle or so. Just scrape all along every window. It doesn't scratch at all...like steel wool might.
For paint, I would use any old claybar and get to work...I use meguiars. But, I would let the new paint/clear coat cure for a few weeks before claybaring.

Paint thinner works just as well. I had overspray on my Sebring. I tried the razor blade, tried clay bar, tried rubbing compound...nothing got rid of it completely. Finally I got some paint thinner and wiped it off.

REMOVAL


WARNING

To protect the hands from battery acid, a suitable pair of heavy duty rubber gloves should be worn when removing or servicing a battery. Safety glasses also should be worn.




WARNING

Remove metallic jewelry to avoid injury by accidental arcing of battery current.




CAUTION

The negative battery cable remote terminal (2) must be disconnected and isolated from the remote battery post (1) prior to service of the vehicle electrical systems. The negative battery cable remote terminal can be isolated by using the supplied isolation hole (3) in the terminal casing.







Disconnect and isolate the negative battery cable remote terminal from the remote battery post.






Remove the left front wheel and tire assembly (Refer to Tires and Wheels - Removal).


NOTE

Gasoline battery shown, diesel battery similar.








Remove the push pins (1) and remove the left front wheelhouse splash shield (2) (Refer to Body/Exterior/SHIELD, Splash - Removal)(Refer To List 1).






Loosen the nut (1) and position the battery hold down bracket out of the way (3).






Loosen the pinch clamp bolts and position aside the battery cable clamps from the battery.






Remove the battery (1) from the battery tray (2).

If you are out of warranty do what you like but I go by the thinking that everything on the car has a purpose when designed by the engineers/designers. Unless someone posts info of credible real improvements that are made and many others have posted back with the same results from removing it then I would consider it other than that I'd just leave it alone.

Oh, I know OHF. I gave the oil indicator a chance at my last oil change & it came on at 1500 miles after a fill of Penz Plat...what a joke...it's 5-6000 mile OCI's for me.

Oh, I know OHF. I gave the oil indicator a chance at my last oil change & it came on at 1500 miles after a fill of Penz Plat...what a joke...it's 5-6000 mile OCI's for me.

Exactly what I do. Change my Mobil 1 every 5000 miles. The light is B S.