ChopRod

http://www.drilledrotors.com/ I purchased a set of drilled/slotted rotors with ceramic pads from Drilled Rotors. Well pleased 2 yrs later. Don't seize in winter after sitting a couple days from salt/calcium chloride winter road treatment either. Still running true and minimal dust with the ceramic pads.

Mine only does the rare clunk- R to D. If your shoe is touching the throttle pedal at all- makes it worse. Have foot on the brake pedal of course but sometimes its a matter of having it off to the side a little and often don't realize its touching the throttle pedal. Stupid shoes....

Hi redtomatoman- I upgraded my R/T to drilled & slotted rotors from drilledrotors.com. No problems whatsoever the past year. Keeping the stock sizing is fine- just be sure to use quality parts. Many will choose to differ with me on the choice of rotors and you may do likewise. drilledrotors machine their own product in the USA. They also have a coating on them to keep the rust away. So far it has worked here in the salt belt. Good luck.

Haven't been on here for awhile and surprised there are still so many problems listed with Journey brakes. Own a 2011 R/T thats been great at 41k mi. Researching the brake issue- I considered the upgrade to larger size rotors. Didn't want to pay new prices and couldn't find any used or take off. Original rotors were warped from rotating tires, deer ran into me etc and are cheap OEM. I went with the drilled and slotted rotors from drilledrotors . com in the stock sizing. Have had no issues the past year- premature wear, dust, warp or pads sticking to the rotors. Seems the calcium chloride and salt used in the rust belt will cause the pads to glue themselves on to the rotors. With stock solid rotors and not driving the vehicle for several days one winter- could hardly get out of the garage because they had stuck! Soon released with a little more throttle and patience, thank goodness. Has not happened with the new ones. Now many of you see the post on EBC the dangers of slotted rotors drilled wrong etc. Drilled rotors shouldn't be used for race cars etc but OK for street use IF they are done right. Many of you will differ on opinion regarding this but so far it has worked for me. Great driving vehicle but hate the 6-5 downshift!!! They should bring them all back for mandatory shift reprogramming!!! Not just Service Bulletins for certain models/yrs- mandatory across the board!!! Or Chrysler/Dodge show us how to retrofit and add the ECON button from the vans that controls shifting. OK another topic for another place.....

Also, my local dealer has 5 new 19" Kuhmo's in stock for the last year and a half. Can get them for half price but nope, no way. Not sure why they even made them. Saved a few bucks on the bottom line- doubt it. Price of the new Kuhmo's originally were a lot higher than anything else. Why pay more for a cheap tire??!!! it'd be neat if they made a limited production run of Journey R/T's with the 5.7 hemi!! Hate to see what Fiat may replace it with.

You did it right. I went with drilled/slotted rotors from drilledrotors . com. Work fine for the street and have had no issues whatsoever and work better than stock. Calcium/salt on our roads are bad for teh rotors too. Will make the brakes stick to them if vehicle sits quite awhile before driven again. Mine did it last year. On the original rotors you could see where the pads had left an outline where they had sort of 'froze' to them and actually makes a hard spot that adds to braking vibrations. The drilled/slotted rotors are supposed to prevent some of this. I read up on it a lot and there's quite a few opinions out there and the decision I made works fine for me. Simply talked to people who actually used them and not those who are just opinionated. The tires were plus sized to 235 instead of 225/19 and installed top of the line Cooper's. No regrets there either. Really love my Journey- solid, quiet and nice to drive. Don't like the way the tranny hangs onto 6th before downshifting on hills but have not had any other issues like some have. Any occasional thunk or clunk when shifting from reverse to drive but also notice that I've had my foot touch the gas pedal slightly. Electronic throttle may be a little sensitive at times and as long as I keep my foot off it when shifting its fine. Hope you enjoy your Journey.

sounds unusual. My 11 R/T has great stopping power even with the smaller sized rotors. beleive these have brake assist meaning it adds pedal pressure while stopping.Maybew yours isn't working? I know when I get done driving and half to hop in the Dodge van, there is a big differnce. Have to apply more pressure braking than the Journey. Hopefully I understood my owners manual when it comes to the brake assist. Been awhile since I went over it. I do know that if you rung it through the gears shifting around 5000 rpm's the vehicle scoots! Plus it has a nice snarl for a V6.

any updates to the Interceptor for newer Journey's????

Does NOT aggravate

This site has other posts regarding this. Its a pain in the ass and seems thay can't fiqure out how to reprogram the TCM correctly. My father has a 2012 Kia Soul Red Rock with the 6spd trans and it shifts wonderfully. Doesn't drive as nice as my R/T but does aggravate you either.

Anyone game in trying the Avenger tune regardless???? Same engine in the Ram 1500 is a little over 300hp. All i'd want to do is reprogram shift points- up and down. Or are ther newere TCM's that would work to sort out shift issues as discussed in other topics on this site????? Love this engine and the vehicle overall. Hate the shift points!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Yep, pisses me off too. There are older posts regarding this tranny and its lovely shifting and holding onto 6th unnecessarily. Took RRT's to dealer telling them they needed to reprogrsam tranny computer because it won't throw code. Picked vehicle up an they said NO CODE so didn't follow directions of the RRT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Love this vehicle but totally pisses me off they can't get their act together and do it right. I have a 1996 Grand Caravan that shifts flawlessly even at 180k mile. Nice to drive the old beast better then the new R/T. Sent message to Dodge Cares contact on this site but no response. My father has a 2010 Kia Soul - never any problems-and just bought a slightly used 2012 Red Rock edition with a 6 spd and it shifts perfectly!!! Hello... Hello... anybody listening?????????????????????????

Thanks for the compliment but not making anything up regarding the economy. Live in the country but heard where city driving kills mpg. These are heavy vehicles- several hundred pounds than the new Corvettes and Mustangs. I don't drive 80 on the freeways. Theres been a couple of times cruising 60-65 mph on some fairly flat freeways that it might even average 34-35 put thats probably not too realistic but a probability. Seems it runs most efficiently at 60-65. In the country, better mileage can be obtained by running it in 5th when travelling 45-55. Lugging in 6th is a no-no when it comes to mpg. My R/T had a front axle seal leak replaced under warranty which may have also been the result of a deer getting in the way. That's the only issue except for a couple of new tires and a front end alignment the first 30k mi. Otherwise a solid and comfortable vehicle. Always feel for those that have problems with theirs. The other problem is there are too many electronics that count on the next performing perfectly that have to work with another system etc etc. What we get for cleaner air, a few more miles per gallon and various convenience/comfort/safety features we pay for when it comes to non-warranty repairs.

V6 or I4? Mine usually runs 180 F consistently- V6. When well below 0 F, I turn the controls up to HI which is the next level beyond 86 F. If its on AUTO, I leave it there until it gets warm enough and then turn the fan down manually and then later switch the setting manually to vent/floor. The AUTO setting always puts it on DEF/FLOOR and I done't like the air hitting me in the face off the windshield after awhile. It has the 8.4N and do not like having to press buttons on the screen to make changes. Would rather have knobs or slides- too distracting to make changes while driving because you can not operate the 8.4N by feel requiring taking ones eyes off the road. Dumb. I would set everything as high a temperature possible on your heater and also watch the engine temp gauge. If temp fluctuates between driving and while sitting still, might be an air bubble in the system. Usually not these days. Only other time I've had problems with heat was a cold weather leak from teh lower radiator hose clamp on our Dodge van resulting in low coolant level. It was winter so engine temp was fine and vehicle is parked in a garage but never noticed anything since the leak drained under the vehicle to the floor drain. Melting ice/snow when parked also camouflaged the situation from being obvious. Didn't do it while engine was warm, just after sitting all night. So there may be some items to check even if the vehicle is fairly new. Extremely cold weather takes it toll on any vehicle. With that said the only two things I have come to dislike about my R/T is the heater controls and the stupid tranny's inability to downshift properly when climbing hills from 6 to 5-1. No sense in it dropping two "gears" when only one is required. Especially with 286 horsepower. Otherwise it hauls as* and have gotten as high 30 mpg on trips with 28.3 being trip average running 60-70 mph. 20-23 everyday country driving cold weather-around 24 summer. Hope this helps.

If its cold out, its cold out period. When its so cold, breathing in the car will cause moisture to form on the windows and freeze. DO you have AUTO temp control? Be sure to run the air conditioning to help remove moisture. Also, do you have the dual heat/AC? If not the front heater will not get everything. Like I said when its well below zero don't expect perfection- when its cold its cold! Just my 2 cents.....