2late4u

I would def try to tighten the alum ridges that clamp around the tubes just be carefully,as mentioned above the tubes are sensitive to any movement, I wouldn't try to replace the o rings as they should still be ok

I would def try to tighten the alum ridges that clamp around the tubes just be carefully,as mentioned above the tubes are sensitive to any movement, I wouldn't try to replace the o rings as they should still be ok

Welcome to the site. Push button start very sensitive to getting full 12 volts to function. Battery warmer pad  rather than block heater would probably help.
 
Need a very strong battery at your temps, if it’s more than 3 yrs old or alternator weak you will have problems.  Cranking amps on battery and voltage output from alt need checking. BMS systems on newer cars might get in way where you are;   sees low voltage from cold and interprets as draw from item left on. Shuts system down. Sensor right at negative terminal of battery I think sends signal to pcm. 
 
Key fob has driver door lock key built in. Little tab releases key. May have to lube with deicer etc first time used. If fob battery dead or low, press end of fob against start button directly. Use it to cycle button,  signal gets picked up. 
Portable lithium booster packs , biggest you can find , helpful this time of year.
 
 
 

 

looks like a cover for an air vent from the underside of your car ,crawl under where you found it and look around should be easy to find where it goes back also you could take it to your local dodge dealership and they would be able to tell you where it goes or any auto body shop should or could tell you as well if they want to help.please report back on what you find out    I have never seen one on a dodge journey BUT pickup trucks usually  have one located on the rear wall near the floor of the cabin to let air out of the truck cabins so the ac/heat work properly 

looks like a cover for an air vent from the underside of your car ,crawl under where you found it and look around should be easy to find where it goes back also you could take it to your local dodge dealership and they would be able to tell you where it goes or any auto body shop should or could tell you as well if they want to help.please report back on what you find out    I have never seen one on a dodge journey BUT pickup trucks usually  have one located on the rear wall near the floor of the cabin to let air out of the truck cabins so the ac/heat work properly 

The one on the right side of the cabin filter is the recirculate actautor.That's the one that causes fogging when it gets stuck in recirculate mode.

mine just done this but was stuck in the heat mode, drop the glove box door and then push the black fabric cover so you can see the blend doors there is one to the left side of the opening  which controls the different levels ( defrost floor and regular vents) of the air is sent ,the one closest to it on the right, is the one causing your trouble if you move the passenger side temp up and down it should be moving I just tapped on mine and it then started working and haven't caused me no more trouble now there is another one on the right side of the air filter don't know what that controls............
 

thanks for reporting back on the fix ,,,,that is what makes a blog help other folks,,, Have sa great New Year

yes new parts can be bad, return it to o'rileys and they should replace it for you,, from your statement was it more than 1 senor? are you sure you replaced the right one? no problem driving with those lights that are on you just wont have abs braking just regular style brakes and also NO cruise control...I haven't been driving with those lights on for about a yr/and half while waiting on the dealership to get me a new abs module that are on backorder everywhere no one has replacement module,,,also you could have a bad wheel bearing as well causing your problem with that sensor showing bad but could be the wheel bearing...good luck

It did end up being the recirc diverted motor.   Replaced it.   Problem fixed.

With 3/4” drive you can get a a few foot long pipe and add it to the breaker bar. Remove nut with hub cap off and wheel on the ground if possible. Safer and weight of car helps. Counter clock wise to loosen.
 
Even heat from a torch helps with seized threads.  Impact gun which vibrate when used is always best, but not essential.
Its only torqued at 100 ft pounds;  removing rust on exposed threads with wire brush will prevent damage on nut threads. People resuse the old nuts but technically they are suppose to be replaced on most vehicles after removal. Dealers do.

LOL ya I was thinking lug nuts as i was just helping someone that had a lug nut that wouldn't budge. but it did meet its match,,, the cv axle nut is what he is talking about, and yes he could slit the nut and he might have to use a torch for some heat as well ,but then you run the risk of damaging the axle,,,,,,, its always a great idea to replace that nut after removing it even if it still looks good, he needs to find out the correct torque setting for it as well so he doesn't ruin  the new bearing by over torquing it

geta 5 ft iron pipe for some  additional leverage and or just snap off the lug whichever happens first,,, By the way welcome to the group  just remember I believe your engine has the timing belt that needs to be changed

The OP is talking about the big nut for the CV joint, I doubt it would snap the "lug". BUT you are very correct about a good long helper pipe, I've done that many a time to compensate for my bad back and crusty CV joint nuts, even when using a 2.5' 3/4 "drive breaker bar!
 
To Mando Mayer......
 If as bad as you say, you may think about getting a new nut and use a  hammer & chisel to split the nut that's so stuck. Only need to do this on one flat midway of it's length. This would loosen things up nicely for removal, but you WILL NEED A NEW axle nut on reassembly.

geta 5 ft iron pipe for some  additional leverage and or just snap off the lug whichever happens first,,, By the way welcome to the group  just remember I believe your engine has the timing belt that needs to be changed

They are lefty loosey righty tighty!
An 09 model, they have not probably been off in ages {if ever} and will have siezed up on the threads, try soaking the stub shaft with a good penetrating oil like liquid wrench.

you could check with your local junk yard/salvage yard for a used one they usually give you a 30 day warranty on the parts

@2late4u for sure! I should also add it solved our alarm going off at 3am for no reason. The same time, multiple times lol. Very glad for this forum as i wouldnt have figured it out without all the other people!!

I got a used (not refurbished) TIPM for $100. Did a soft reset via YouTube after install. Worked great! I have door lock/unlock, remote start, a rear hatch that opens. Thank goodness! 

Over the summer I replaced the rear struts on our '11 with 3 row seating. I had seen this video and a few others and decided to try it on one side for cutting the panel. I was NOT IMPRESSED and decided to go the right way and found a lot of seat removal work was NOT needed. YES it's a pain for window trim removal and replacing when done, but once you get to the actual struts things go quite easily. On vehicles with rear heat/a/c on the right side {most all 3 row models}, there is an air duct that needs to be removed{easy to do} that covers over the upper strut nuts. I found also that the left{drivers side} lower panel did not need to come completely out, just needed some pretty long ratchet extensions to reach over the height of the panel being pulled away. IF I have to do the '13 or '14, I will do it the right way{with some shortcuts}. The '13 RT should be easy as it's 2 row and no rear HVAC to contend with.

Definitely not the right way but Definitely SOO much easier this way.

contact the company and let them know about your problems with this car, instead call them and let them inspect in front of you.

check out YouTube for videos on how to remove and replace a wiper for more great info as well.please report back on your repair and insights for others to learn from

Might as well follow up on this. Got a new vent put on the differential and that solved the oil leak. Still have not replaced the viscous coupler, but it seems to have been working alright

It should be at the very back of the vehicle, on the passenger (right) side behind the plastic cover.  I've done this job twice myself on the mode actuator which is located in the same spot.  You will also need a method to calibrate the new actuator once it's installed.  In my case, I used AlphaOBD with a Bluetooth OBD receiver.
 
I highly recommend getting an OEM Mopar actuator.  The first time I used an after-market one and it only lasted a short time and had issues calibrating.  It's not a fun job to do twice.