2late4u

Would be nice to know what engine size, but I will ASSUME the 2.4 4 cylinder motor. And YES a bad head gasket improperly diagnosed as thermostat will make replacement thermostats go bad also. Sorry for your major repair expense, as head gasket AND possible warped head is a very costly repair bill. You might want to think about a good used motor to be installed verses repairing the one you have.

Spring car maint,  just did winters to summers swap and now have parts on order. Back wheel bearings started to howl  two months ago.  At around 249kms or 155 miles, not that bad for original bearings really. Only one front original bearing left.
Waiting for rockauto  parts now. One front outer tie rod also needs changing, will do both. This vehicle will go to my daughter eventually so keeping up the maint. 
 
Even on a new car I find the low profile 19” tires run firmer but handle better. Our snows are 17” Dunlop tires so I have experienced the difference.  The  look of the alum spoke 19” rims is also nicer …but costly.  You could explore the all weather (mtn snow flake symbol) tires most companies sell now. My pickup has them so you run them all year. Not quite as good a winter and slightly more money. Only one set of rims/Tpms sensors is also nice.

I gave up on the 19's put 17's  from a Caravan on and seems to be a nicer ride...

The wife's '13 finally came due for oil change, so I did that on Monday of the solar eclipse day. PROBLEMS right away.
{1}  Had to use a breaker bar with long handle to get the filter cap loose
{2} STUPID DESIGN early oil bypass valve was NOT there, no parts at all.
      I did the oil and filter anyway and contacted my friend about getting another one, but had to call him back a bit later, as I found a noticeable oil leak in the engine valley at the cooler assy. NOT gushing, but would not drive it other than getting it to my fiends shop, to replace the whole unit with an aluminum assy..
{3} On the way there I heard a howling coming from the RF, YUP wheel bearing.
{4} I knew I needed to do Valve cover gaskets and have had them ready since summer, so it was agreed that for the paltry cost of $500., He would do the wheel bearing {moog},oil filter/cooler assy., and VC gaskets.
 
GOOD DEAL....YES....BUT
On getting the intakes and covers off, he found on the firewall bank that the Intake  cam had a lobe that was badly scored on one valve lobe and rocker shot. EASY fix IF it was on the front bank, but the rear needs to have motor mounts loosened and shift motor a bit to clear sprocket bolt removal. MORE WORK. We decided on using a good used cam and new rockers for the rear bank.  NO price yet for this additional work, but since we got this car 10 months ago thru him, he's keeping labor costs at a minimum and I cover parts, as one could tell by the price for the original work that was to be done. Car is hopefully to be done this afternoon.
My wife is back to driving her old {now mine} '14sxt.  
 
What a way to start SPRING! And I had been planning finances to get the '13 a new set of 19" tires........... Those with that size know they are NOT cheap!

Have to wonder if you have an intermittent connection on a connector you would have taken off to change injectors or plugs? A plug not firing would cause fuel to remain unburned.
 
Sometimes the alcohol content may run high and needs to be reset. That takes the correct equipment.

well you didn't use oem and there are a lot of junk aftermarket parts being sold these days, but they shouldn't be your problem , from what you have wrote it would be something you did during the reassembly since you didn't infer a problem before doing this work 

I can see changing the plugs but why mess with injectors and coil packs for no reason especially if they were OEM's to aftermarket?

Been a while since I've been on here, but I did get everything done. I have a good friend that owns a Mercedes shop and he did all of the rockers, a couple of camshafts, and a few other items under there for under $3k. I do have the 3.6 and it truly took about 8 hours to do it all over 2 days. I was also able to see the car when it was taken apart, and he showed me the 2 broken rockers and the camshafts. I decided to change 2 of the of the camshafts, even though he gave me the option to keep one of them. The other two were smooth and in great condition. After some more conversations with the dealer, the average price to do this whole job (without the $400 camshafts) would have been $4,600. The car is running great and I have an 18 month warranty if anything goes wrong. I've been on a couple long trips since the work and no issues so far. My DJ is still going strong with no issues. Oh, and believe it or not, I've always used high quality full synthetic up with every change. The issue was the lower quality rockers used in the original construction. 

Great to hear all is well again, but YES a pretty hefty hit to the bank account all the same. And yes, having capable friends or trusted shop other than DEALERS can help greatly on costs. Also can't rule out part of costs due to the WONDERFUL ECONOMY we ALL are currently dealing with.

For anyone who needs this information, the fuse for this is in the box under the glove box, NOT the engine bay. Third row away from the passenger seat, fifth fuse from the left. F109. Pull this for a minute or so, then reinsert and follow the rest of the instructions that 2late4u posted.

found this on goggle dont know if it really works ..good luck...............
Blend Door Actuator Motor Calibration
Turn ignition key to the on position and turn on the HVAC system. Move the key to the off position. Open hood (bonnet for the RHD guys) and locate fuse #15 in the fuse box next to the battery. Remove the fuse and wait 1-2 minutes for any capacitive charges in the system to dissipate. Replace the fuse. Turn the ignition key to the on position. You can now watch the motors move as the system goes through the calibration routine. Leave the key on for a couple of minutes to make sure that the calibration routine is completed before turning it off. You will also be able to hear additional activity as all the doors and fan speed are calibrated. You may have to run the cal routine a couple of times to get the system back to full functionality. If the position of the new door is significantly different from the point at failure, the system will successively move toward the new correct position setting. It may take two or three cycles for the system to move to the correct position.

You gave very little background info as to why you replaced those sensor. For that vintage they should be "plug and play", did you have CEL and just what P forat codes did you have?
After your work, do you still have CEL and if so what are the codes? There is more involved to codes diagnosis beside just changing sensors.

reads like battery or ground issue to many things happening at once?

You were told timing belt was changed? Neither the 2.4 nor the 3.6 have a belt, it’s a chain.
Very involved  and expensive repair. If not done properly it could run rough. Or was it the surpentine belt that drives alternator pwr steering etc. 
Always start with checking for codes when diagnosing.

A transmisison overhaul here in Brazil has an absurd price, so I´m probably doing it myself by cleaning and checking the valvebody first. Actually the clunk is very rare now, maybe because of the two fluid changes I did. I´m very confident that this is caused by sludge somewhere inside. In my case is still not the time to dismantle the transmission.

1 post wonder

We are not all having the same problem and sometimes problems get fixed but they never reply cause their problem is gone

I have a 2018 Dodge Journey it does the same exact thing. I would think there should be a recall over this if we all are having the same problem?

What ones quit high or low beams/ all four? Does the car have automatic headlights? Any recent work on the front end or swapped in LED bulbs?
I've got 3 DJ's and only had a singular low beam bulb quit and it was the bulb.

I have a 2011 that the drivers door passive{touch the handle} did not work and had an EVIC message to service keyless entry system. It was broken wires in the door handle. A common problem as the wires were too short for constant flexing for this year. I took the handle off and apart and repaired/lengthened the wires and all has been fine for more than 4 years.
You state a fender bender, was that door damaged by the accident? lots of wires run thru the door and jamb in the rubber boot between door and body, quite possible a wire for passive entry was damaged/cut. 
NO WAY to tell you exactly what is your fault sight unseen.
Keep on the folks that did the repair and your Ins. Co. to get to the bottom of the problem and get it fixed, GOOD LUCK and PLEASE report back what transpires.

My son in law had a Fusion and wanted no part in changing the battery on it. I went up in the early Spring and changed it for him. That one was not bad at all to do in my experiences of countless battery changes during my "career" as an auto tech.2 months later, his parents gifted him a newer Focus sedan and used his Fusion as trade in for their new vehicle purchase.
My daughter laughs as her "in laws" are FORD people, and knows I prefer my MOPARS. AND also that I NEVER buy "brand new" cars while in-laws buy new and sometimes as often as yearly!

Yeah he is very good and funny. Hi point ….liberal douching of Fluid Film on positive needed or ….it’s good enough for the girls we run with. Tee hee hee.  Or most of this plastic stuff is broken by the quick lube guys by the time these cars get to us.  
I recently changed battery on 2017 Ford Fusion, not any where near as bad as turbo Escape. The young guys need to take a stab at some of these repairs, builds character.
 
Robo-johan  comments like usual, a non informational  scatalogical load.

should have just used a small black screw, it hides better that was the same spot I put mine as well,,,,LOL
 

A broken wire in the harness can cause strange issues as they can occasionally make contact and work...
I had to replace the harness  

the ones on the passenger side break real easy, I had one replaced under warranty and then it broke again so I just held it in place and drilled a small hole thru the plastic trim and also the metal bracket behind it and then used a small black screw worked so good I did the drivers side even though it hadn't broke yet