agm2112

A transmisison overhaul here in Brazil has an absurd price, so I´m probably doing it myself by cleaning and checking the valvebody first. Actually the clunk is very rare now, maybe because of the two fluid changes I did. I´m very confident that this is caused by sludge somewhere inside. In my case is still not the time to dismantle the transmission.

Yes, I was wondering about this relief valve. I have a friend with exactly the same journey as I, but much less mileage. His car does the same ugly noise when reaches the end of steering, só I wasn't worrying about the relief valve. Another thing I found last week: front left tire with a giant deformation, I removed the wheel and it can't even roll straight. Maybe is a combo of extreme temperature and this tyre, causing the ps fluid to overheat and build pressure (vapor ?). Anyway, bought new tyres. Let's wait ....

I´ll try to recycle this topic, because a have another case of "explosive" power steering. Here in Brazil, with ridiculous hot weather (40+ Celsius), My Journey had a rupture on the oil seal where the steering column is connected to the steering rack (Journey 3.6R/T 2014 - 100k miles). Almost all the oil leaked inside the car and made a complete mess (this oil is specially stinky). I bought a steering rack overhaul kit and changed all at home. I´m using a Texaco multi-vehicle synthetic oil that claims to be ATF+4 compatible (only on steering, on transmission I use Valvoline ATF+4). After some mileage (1000km) it happened again when entering on a garage at a hellish hot day. This oil seal is in the return line, and should hold low pressure, so why is it blowing ? Now I did a backflush with querosene and compressed air, and replaced the oil seal. The car seems fine again, but now I´m always waiting for another oil mess when parking. The return line does´t seem to be clogged. What else I can do ??

Found this here in Brazil: https://produto.mercadolivre.com.br/MLB-2914959318-trocador-de-calor-dodge-journey-cherokee-36-v6-aluminio-_JM Almost half the price I paid here on the Dorman, and includes oil cooler and sensors. Probably made in China (seems unbranded).

No "check engine" light on ? Shure this is a problem. Use some scan tool to find whats wrong with the TCM.

So ... we have exactly the same problem ! Cheers !

My front mount is still original, but is perfect. The rear one is a little abused, but still there. I can feel the exact moment that the clunk will happen, normally on parking lots or heavy traffic, on 2nd gear. With cold transmission is even worse. And it does not happen every day.

My journey sometimes "clunks" when changing from second to third gear, normally when not pressing the gas too much. I have replaced the transmission fluid (twice - Valvoline ATF+4), added some Lubegard, but nothing helped. It has 150.000km (~94k miles). It is not getting worse (or i´m just getting used to it). Can it just be some sludge on the valve body that worth's manual cleaning ? I can reproduce it: hit the gas slightly (5-10%), first, second ... when it would change to third, I release the gas, wait two seconds .... CLUNK ! Thanks.

I believe you should replace the head unit, but not the screen (the "dvd player"). Would be ideal to find another to test before buy.

To read error codes on this transmission you need a code scanner connected do the engine module, and from there you can read transmission errors. This can be the range sensor, inside the transmission, but i´m pretty sure you do not need to remove the transmission to test/replace it. Low oil level, oil pump or oil pressure sensor should be tested also ...

What engine is that ? By the position near the pinion/rack this is probably is the a/c drain.

That´s why FCA changed the oil filter housing and filter after 2013. Bad design. Unfortunately, the new model is crappy too.

Isn ´t there any kind of sludge, scratch or debris on the engine side ? It is leaking on the oil pump exit, high oil pressure. I solved my problem by using a Dorman aluminium housing.

Check the thermostat valve. You can even try to run without it if the weather is no so cold for testing purposes... Or just replace it, is a cheap and important part. I had to replace mine with lower mileage.

Yes, I spent an entire can of "electric contact cleaner" on the wiring, contacts, knock sensors and oil pressure and temperature sensors. The heat shield of the knock sensors were destroyed by the oil, I made a "fix" with aluminium foil.