John/Horace

I did put in a new EGR. Ours had 132k miles.  The Oil Separator wasn't in stock anywhere, and I wasn't gonna buy a new cam. 

I went ahead and just put the cam back in with the chipped oil separator. Time will tell, I guess.  
 
On a different note: the 6 spark plug tube seals on top of the valve covers and the 2 Cam Position sensor seals wasn't as hard to replace as some have stated.  I just found the correct size socket that fit the seal and knocked them out and in with that.  Actually it was a pretty simple job.  Here are the sockets I used.  

I haven’t had one of those in my hand before;  work on cars as a hobby quite a bit, retired millwright.
Looks like cast metal item, so fragile. I worry there are other cracks you can’t see. Awkward to get at later if it fails. 
Will probably come off in several pieces by hand fairly easily. Preheat with hair dryer if tight to install new one.
 
Works together with your egr valve  I think to keep oil inside engine. Probably mesh inside which could  get plugged over time.
Online sites for Mopar are decent and you guys have much cheaper shipping than we have up North. Unless money super tight, I would change it.  If over 100k miles consider changing egr as well; they start leaking around that milage, I just changed mine for that reason.

https://www.megacitymopar.com/cart.aspx
 

Put battery on a charger for a few hours. Alternator might not be properly charging the almost new battery properly. 

Here are the 2011 external lighting wiring diagrams.  Good luck.
Lighting Diagram 1.pdf
Lighting Diagram 2.pdf
Lighting Diagram 3.pdf
Lighting Diagram 4.pdf
Lighting Diagram 5.pdf
Lighting Diagram 6.pdf
Lighting Diagram 7.pdf

Our 2014 has 231k kms and are still not bad.  In first two years 2009-2010 the Journey suspension was really fragile and brakes were under sized. Lots of links talking about it. It was fixed after that and seems to be a little better than average. Although the newer suspension design can develop a constant rattle from bushings that wear out, rear latteral links also wear early if you haul loads a lot.
 
Canada likes to sell Monroe after market struts; that are usually crap. Buy oem or KYB if possible.
 

Our 2014 has 231k kms and are still not bad.  In first two years 2009-2010 the Journey suspension was really fragile and brakes were under sized. Lots of links talking about it. It was fixed after that and seems to be a little better than average. Although the newer suspension design can develop a constant rattle from bushings that wear out, rear latteral links also wear early if you haul loads a lot.
 
Canada likes to sell Monroe after market struts; that are usually crap. Buy oem or KYB if possible.
 

You  have two options for fixing oil filter/cooler assembly. Another plastic one that are readily available or one made of aluminum like you have in the picture. Which are harder to come by. If it’s warranty dealer, calls the shots, I would expect another plastic unit. Yours lasted seven years before failure, if it’s a free fix I would let them do it.
 
Need to be aware there are two different oil filters on the 3.6 engine. One was used from 2011-2013 and the other from 2014-2020.  Wrong filter could damage housing, not interchangeable. Your China site is showing wrong info. 
 


 

 

 

 
 
These guys are one of the better on line sites, very reasonable shipping, fast delivery.  The alum units are out of stock right now. People must prefer them.
 
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/dodge,2016,journey,3.6l+v6,3353540,engine,oil+filter+housing,12429
 
 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

You  have two options for fixing oil filter/cooler assembly. Another plastic one that are readily available or one made of aluminum like you have in the picture. Which are harder to come by. If it’s warranty dealer, calls the shots, I would expect another plastic unit. Yours lasted seven years before failure, if it’s a free fix I would let them do it.
 
Need to be aware there are two different oil filters on the 3.6 engine. One was used from 2011-2013 and the other from 2014-2020.  Wrong filter could damage housing, not interchangeable. Your China site is showing wrong info. 
 


 

 

 

 
 
These guys are one of the better on line sites, very reasonable shipping, fast delivery.  The alum units are out of stock right now. People must prefer them.
 
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/dodge,2016,journey,3.6l+v6,3353540,engine,oil+filter+housing,12429
 
 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

2013 I just disconnected the neg battery terminal on the firewall then the positive.

Fixed it; was the starter relay.
I jumpered the relay as shown here:
 
The starter engaged fine. There was a radiator fan relay that is the exact same there near the starter relay, so I popped it out and replaced the starter relay with it. Car started fine, so I went and got a new one, put the radiator fan relay back where it belongs, and put the new one in the starter relay spot. Car starts up, and everything seems fine.
Here is the fuse/relay box under the hood looking at if from the driver's side fender:

All of the relays circled in green are the exact same model. You can see where I have already replaced the Starter Relay, and I marked the relay that I used to test it.

https://m.facebook.com/groups/pilothouse/permalink/10159496213923719/?mibextid=Nif5oz

Hydraulic pump will have a relief valve built in. Prevents blowing hoses when steering is held at extreme end position on right or left. Makes me wonder if it’s working.

If it lets go you would have to get towed most likely, not cheap.  Labor I think is roughly 1.5  hours , proper clean up could make it even longer.  Complete unit with the temp and pressure sensors on it has to be close to $250 with tax. New set of intake seals would have gone on as well. Good time for plug change if they are due.

Dealer won’t use the aftermarket all aluminum units, but plastic one should outlast your ownership. 

Hydraulic pump will have a relief valve built in. Prevents blowing hoses when steering is held at extreme end position on right or left. Makes me wonder if it’s working.

trq repair videos dodge journey is a link for all the different videos...this one is for upper rear lateral links.........
 

And of course it turned out to be the wires going into the vehicle from the hatch.  Clean cut thru all 3 - camera signal, camera return and bare wire. Fixed and enjoying seeing backwards again

Couple of weeks ago we had that, dash lights flicker Journey wouldn't start.Charged the battery fixed it and I tookk all the grounds off the  strut tower and cleaned them up.No problems since so yes this is a great suggestion  to try.

Are all your carpets dry?
Any leaks ? Check the rear floor storage compartments to make sure they are dry

You would assume so, but with that info not provided, we are left with swag's. 

Again, behind the glovebox remove the cabin filter.That actuator is the one that does the fresh air or recirculate function.The fact that cracking the windows open helps means that it is stuck in recirculate mode.You can remove the power from that actuator and with your hand flip the vent to the fresh air position.That will solve that problem.Reinstall the cabin filter .I  never use recirculate anyway but I did replace the actuator.Sometimes that is not even necessary as the old actuators will start to work again. 

Welcome to the site. It’s the fresh air actuator on the passenger side, behind the hvac filter. They often randomly stick. With filter removed see what it’s doing. Every time car is turned off, it opens to vent the cabin so it cycles quite a bit. Once it’s freed up , it will do that.
 
Last time I gave it a small poke with a screw driver and a small silicon spray afterwards.  Very hard to get at screws, will have to change eventually.  Sometimes it frees its self up after a few days. Annoying for sure.

I'm not a fuel trim expert, but generally a positive number indicates that more air is getting into the combustion chamber than expected.  So if this is a large number it could indicate an air leak in the intake system.  A negative number indicates that more fuel is getting into the combustion chamber than expected.  A leaking injector could cause this.
 
Understanding Short Term and Long Term Fuel Trims (mechanic.com.au)

Was the proper orange coolant in there when the problems started. I think some people mix regular or universal ethylene glycol with the factory stuff. Jell can form in heater core and seems to block heat to passenger side. There are pics on line of a jelled core that was cut open to show problem. Sand from block coating was another possibility.
 
With a new core and a well flushed system , then rinsing with a special flush additive before switching to different coolant,  it should have fixed problem.
 
You may have a bad actuator still causing the problem, Rockauto sells them fairly cheap if that’s the issue.  If the actuator by the air hvac filter gets stuck,  your passenger side will fog up and there will be very little heat. With filter out you can see if it opens and closes. My wife’s 2014 just had hers get stuck closed. Poked at it to free it up, then silicone spray on pivot point; working again for now.
 
 
 

Leaking heater core would run coolant low, create smell in cabin, stain in parking spot. He hasn’t reported those issues.
Lots of posts of fogging issues, high milage older models normally. A/c in winter can’t cycle on enough to help clear windows, so outside air needed.
 
Pull hvac paper filter, look at fresh air actuator on right side;  probably will be stuck closed and won’t move when defrost selected.  Free it up or change it. Or hope it frees itself up, which someone else on forum has mentioned often happens.