John/Horace

Sounds very frustrating. Trouble shoot temperature probe. Measure value at hood probe harness plug and then the output value that arrives at the pin coming in to pcm. Cold and at 200F when error occurs. Need pcm pin out diagram, Mitchel log in. Maybe probe or harness issue.

Crap in the lines maybe. Flush out a bit before nozzle outlet. Check bottom of reservoir for grit. Hood jets fragile and pricy, be careful. How is hatch spray, normal. There are two pumps on system.

https://www.moparpartscanada.ca/oem-parts/mopar-drip-channel-68019472aa?c=bT0xJmw9MyZuPVJlY29tbWVuZGVkIFByb2R1Y3RzJms9MQ%3D%https://www.moparpartscanada.ca/oem-parts/mopar-drip-channel-68019472aa?c=bT0xJmw9MyZuPVJlY29tbWVuZGVkIFByb2R1Y3RzJms9MQ%3D%3D 0ED150FA-4766-4D15-8EC7-228BBEBCDB2F.webp

I hate random parts throwing but… cps sensor is critical, not hard to change or expensive. Non oem on occasion can create a lot of weird stuff. As already mentioned. Sensor Reluctor wheel damage or misalignment for cam or CPS sensors comes up on engine sites. VVT sensors run on oil pressure, heat can change viscosity and pressure. How is oil pressure.?

The TIPM and body ground control module BCM have a lot of things running through them. Without a schematic and ability to read them it can be tricky to find this kind of fault. Most common cause of overnight dead battery from parasitic load on Journeys. Is the blue tooth module buried in the dash. Very pricy to buy and hard to get at to change. People pull the fuse in the passenger side kick fuse panel as short term fix. Hand free module fuse so I think called HFM fuse. F131 it’s 10 amp. There is another fuse in this panel that has constant power and it controls hvac switches maybe time delay on radio off function. Try pulling it by itself with the battery still hooked up (leave it out for 5 mins, then back). Maybe it will help synch things; long shot really. Fuse F109. The cluster itself is fed from F108, make sure it’s not blown while you are in there. Get a magnifying glass to read fuse look up table.😀

It’s not structural to car so don’t panick. A body shop would pound it back to approx shape, then weld in some sheet metal maybe. Body filler to smooth out. Not cheap. You could do the similar fix sans the welding. Long strand fibreglass is great for filling out odd shapes; water proof and crazy strong. Or just use light gauge metal and rivets to cover a hole if there is one.

It’s a vent, stick a piece of wire in tube and make sure it’s clear to inside of housing. Vents the condensation. Or drill a few more holes close to top of housing at the back, so water not forced in. Or add gold fish to housing and call it a day.

They supplied the bezel to fit the new screen . It a 9” versus 8.4 “ and shape looks a little different. How large is the canbus box that came with this unit. There was no factory back up cam and it was added by the canbus box configuration? So new wiring to tail gate was also added for this purpose? Thx.

Rated for 60k miles so not bad. Have had very good results with several sets of factory Kumho tires on Elantras and Santa Fe. Back when their engines where not GDI crap, but Mitsubishi design. Curious about the oil cooler change. Our 2014 went at 93k miles or 148kms in 2019. Lost a quart in 30 miles, major leak just made it home to driveway. Aluminum units were talked about but not sold yet. Had to go with another oem plastic unit and have logged another 60k miles. Debating on when to upgrade to aluminum. My brother has a 2017 Ram with 3.6 and same plastic cooler and 93k miles no sign of leak yet. Jeep and Ram with 3.2 and 3.6 have had same cooler failures for several years. Seems like heat and vibration causes warping and failure. How many miles do would you trust a plastic oil cooler assembly for. Is it possible they have fixed quality issue and units are ok now. Don’t want to waste $ to change unit if not needed. The same phenolic plastic stuff is used for oil pan and rocker covers and seems to work ok. Easier application ?

Bad ball joints eat tires fast, as you know. We lost one real early on the RT, around 60k miles. Good to do before new rubber goes on car. My all weather tires are made by Cooper, US made I believe. I think you get about 80% of the stated tire life with this style tire. Not as good handling as top shelf snows, but noticeably better than regular all season tires. With snow symbol insurance companies that give discount for snow tires recognize them as snows.

So it’s the 3.5 timing belt engine I assume. Still original belt most likely. Either wrong longer spark plugs getting hit or slightly stretched belt/weak tensioner triggering limp mode power loss. The fact it still ran after piston clipped plug is pretty impressive. Very time consuming complex job to swap out belt and tensioner and usually water pump.

Spring car maint, just did winters to summers swap and now have parts on order. Back wheel bearings started to howl two months ago. At around 249kms or 155 miles, not that bad for original bearings really. Only one front original bearing left. Waiting for rockauto parts now. One front outer tie rod also needs changing, will do both. This vehicle will go to my daughter eventually so keeping up the maint. Even on a new car I find the low profile 19” tires run firmer but handle better. Our snows are 17” Dunlop tires so I have experienced the difference. The look of the alum spoke 19” rims is also nicer …but costly. You could explore the all weather (mtn snow flake symbol) tires most companies sell now. My pickup has them so you run them all year. Not quite as good a winter and slightly more money. Only one set of rims/Tpms sensors is also nice.

Wife has 249kms or 154k miles with original coils and injectors, on second plug set still, used NGK laser irredium ( largest plug manufacture, they own AC Delco etc). Injectors seldom go, except on BMW X5 few others. I like to go with hard codes for part changes. But yeah MAP or upstream O2 can cause rich running. Downstream are for confirming cats working, don’t affect fuel trim like upstream. Gas is expensive so I usually change them by 100k miles. I changed both upstream with NTK ( division of NGK who I think made the Mopar factory part, identical stamped SS casing) when I was changing oil heat exchanger unit at 150kms. I try to use oem when possible, especially on critical buried parts that are hard to get at. But stuff often out of stock at crappy local dealer and in Canada marked up 3-4 hundred percent over aftermarket. Rockauto for Mopar is best, although Mopar Canada on line and picked up at dealer a week later gets 20% off usually.

https://www.aar.org/issue/freight-rail-operational-regulation/ Too much at stake with only one engineer humanoid. I hope Robo-Johan not insulted.😎 Marine navigation pilot and tugs the next billion dollar question. Or better backup systems. Although the people involved did well in the minutes they had.

You were told timing belt was changed? Neither the 2.4 nor the 3.6 have a belt, it’s a chain. Very involved and expensive repair. If not done properly it could run rough. Or was it the surpentine belt that drives alternator pwr steering etc. Always start with checking for codes when diagnosing.

Most awd vehicles can be switched to 2 wheel drive by removing the rear drive shaft, including the Journey. Dealerships will never do a procedure like this. Car needs to be put back to original condition so it can go another 100k miles ….and we can make $8600 on a repair. A transmission or truck repair place can access the severity of the leak or even switch vehicle to temporarily 2 wheel drive. As somebody already said; It may only be a side c/v axle lip seal leak, a $25 part and a few hrs of labor. The front ptu unit holds about 700ml of thick 75w90 gear oil. A few drips every few days will not drop fluid level all that much. But you can’t ignore it and let it get really low and wreck the internal bearings. A used ptu unit from an auto recycler is often the most cost effective repair if a full rebuild is needed. Because unit was run for a while without any oil left inside.

Yeah he is very good and funny. Hi point ….liberal douching of Fluid Film on positive needed or ….it’s good enough for the girls we run with. Tee hee hee. Or most of this plastic stuff is broken by the quick lube guys by the time these cars get to us. I recently changed battery on 2017 Ford Fusion, not any where near as bad as turbo Escape. The young guys need to take a stab at some of these repairs, builds character. Robo-johan comments like usual, a non informational scatalogical load.

Great news if it’s running and no limp mode issues. Not to be the bearer of bad news, but….The 3.5 v6 is a timing belt interference engine, unfortunately. Usually by 100k the belt and idlers should be replaced. Most people push it quite a bit farther. Not a typical diy job, If it jumps or breaks, the engine is usually toast. If it’s not done you will need to start investigating getting it done. Labor part can be several hours for a mechanic, water pump change also makes sense at same time since it’s behind the timing covers.

UV die added to oil can confirm which oil is leaking from what. If your dads a mechanic, he will figure it out. The oil cooler is one of the flaws of the 3.6 engine. Make to sure to change ptu and rear diff oil for awd components.

Wipe it off and keep an eye on it. Might be able to ignore it for a while if it’s not badly leaking. Usually leaking where engine and tranny join is a torque converter front pump seal. A $10 seal that takes 4-5 hours to replace unfortunately. Tranny has to completely come out to do it. Since you have awd, this would also be the time to change the CPS crank sensor. $25 wear item part that would be easy access with tranny out. Causes intermittent stalling when worn out, by heat and vibration.

Welcome to the forums. The 200 vehicles always had a 9 speed ZF transmission for both engines. It’s 2.4 was the tiger shark (bad oil usage engine) not the gema or world engine designed USA made Journey 2.4 engine (a decent but slightly noisy engine). Both cars had the same 3.6 engine with maybe different tuning., I have driven a 2.4 journey a few times,( daughter in laws) my wife has a 3.6 awd 2014 Journey which I drive often. Yeah the power and fun factor difference are noticeable. Although the 3.6 is way worse to service under the hood. The 6 speed is ok-ish but wouldn’t make enough difference to justify the time and cost imo. Assuming transmission mounts and other issues can be dealt with. The 62TE is not peticularly smooth shifting or known to be all that robust if driven harshly. Focus on something else to mod…add a killer sound system etc. From the google…. The 200 is equipped with either a 2.4 L TigerShark producing 184 hp (137 kW; 187 PS) and 173 lb⋅ft (235 N⋅m) of torque or 3.6 L Pentastar engine producing 295 hp (220 kW; 299 PS) and 262 lb⋅ft (355 N⋅m), both matched to a 9-speed automatic transmission.

Milage of car, what engine is it. Any recent repairs completed.

I’m pretty sure no one removes their car interior to unplug sunroof track drain vents. Look at this clip most of them are similar set up. It would be like removing your engine to change spark plugs. Get a hair dryer to unfreeze the crap plugging up the lines, or work in a heated garage if needed. Piece of whipper sniper line and maybe compressed air if really bad, use low pressure if possible.

I have one bad retapped hole on hatch, other insert nut still ok. Plan is to use this repair kit. A drilled round hole is fine, plastic part designed for that. Kit was $8 ish.

I’m guessing m6 ish. If it’s a hole your starting over so it doesn’t matter. And if you try to buy one fastener from a dealer they will try to charge you $10 anyway. So waste of time. The captured nut for license plate bolt is not accessible from the back. Buy a kit like this pic, Wallymart or Crappy Tire will have it. Use a needle file(Princess Auto/Harbour Freight) to make a square hole in the fibreglass hatch. The stainless screws are Allen head for security. Another odd Journey issue.