John/Horace

Very little snow in Niagara area on this side of border. Two or three dumps so far, largest about 4 inches that melted in 4 days.
I’ve been keeping the salt/dirt off the Journey, several hand hose washes on warmer days during the winter. 

Starting to get some minor rust spots on driver front fender and above windshield. Stone chips I think. Body over all holding up pretty good for milage and year.

Here was my problem a new harness fixed all my issues

To transfer ownership vehicle needs to be certified by the dealer he mentioned. Everything has to work , for 36 days I believe.
Just bring it back.
 
DTR Wont come on if parking brake used and remote start is used.  Could check front yellow signal bulbs. They are two filament bulbs (like 1157 brake light)  with direction signal flash and running light on separate filaments. But are yellow coloured 1157.
Some cars use main head light bulbs on lower power feed via a separate DTR module. Journey doesn’t.

ALFAOBD can be used to turn on day time running lights feature in the ecm.  Lots of U.S. guys have done it as an extra safety item. Feature not on dash display controls, or at least not on my 2014 or daughter in laws 2012.

To transfer ownership vehicle needs to be certified by the dealer he mentioned. Everything has to work , for 36 days I believe.
Just bring it back.
 
DTR Wont come on if parking brake used and remote start is used.  Could check front yellow signal bulbs. They are two filament bulbs (like 1157 brake light)  with direction signal flash and running light on separate filaments. But are yellow coloured 1157.
Some cars use main head light bulbs on lower power feed via a separate DTR module. Journey doesn’t.

ALFAOBD can be used to turn on day time running lights feature in the ecm.  Lots of U.S. guys have done it as an extra safety item. Feature not on dash display controls, or at least not on my 2014 or daughter in laws 2012.

To transfer ownership vehicle needs to be certified by the dealer he mentioned. Everything has to work , for 36 days I believe.
Just bring it back.
 
DTR Wont come on if parking brake used and remote start is used.  Could check front yellow signal bulbs. They are two filament bulbs (like 1157 brake light)  with direction signal flash and running light on separate filaments. But are yellow coloured 1157.
Some cars use main head light bulbs on lower power feed via a separate DTR module. Journey doesn’t.

ALFAOBD can be used to turn on day time running lights feature in the ecm.  Lots of U.S. guys have done it as an extra safety item. Feature not on dash display controls, or at least not on my 2014 or daughter in laws 2012.

Can't tell from your picture, but does the car has the sunroof option? IF it does, then I'd suspect the drain lines are clogged with debris, a common issue with all factory sunroof cars.

I maintain an AllData subscription for all my service-manual type needs.

https://www.alldata.com/diy-us/en

Then there is this guy that dumped 4000 gallons of good fuel. You could smell it for weeks.
 
https://www.inquirer.com/science/climate/delco-delaware-county-gasoline-spill-environment-20210727.html

I should probably update this so anyone experiencing this can find the solution.
The simplest way of fixing this was just... Pulling the fuse.
We've been fine for 2 winters and have no more issues.
 
So... Yeah... The Bluetooth module killed like 4 batteries and cost us a couple grand in the process, stumping a large Dodge dealer and is for years.
Cool beans.

Bad blue tooth module is one of the most common parasitic draw issues on these cars.
Search site for which fuse to pull in passenger kick plate panel.  Very expensive module and awkward to change out.
Discussed here often.

No robo-Johan,  read Navallacross post above.  
 
FCA at the time did not want to pay for testing to meet new DOT towing capacity compliance. Real world testing needed post 2010 to keep the higher weight rating. 
 
There already was awd available on the higher rated 2009-10 models. Awd not new for 3.6 engine.

Ive had great results with Deka batteries.  Made by East Penn in the USA.
I use them as replacements in my cars and toys.
 

Time to replace the rear license plate.  10 minute job, right?  Ah.... No.
(2014 DJ - plates last replaced 10 years ago-ish.)
 
I was unable to remove the bolts that hold the plate on.  Both fastening devices attached to the tailgate for the bolts just spin, and spin, and spin.
(They are not the plastic square nut type.)
On researching further, this is a common problem across multiple manufacturers.
 
To jump to the middle of the project, below is what the fastening devices look like AFTER the license plate was brutally removed.  They are a type of soft metal, not plastic, internally threaded to accept the bolt.
The license plate bolt corroded inside of these, locked tight, and these would just spin (instead of the bolt coming out).  Temperatures were in the mid 30f's, which probably didn't help.
The (red) body panel these are inserted in is fiberglass (not plastic nor metal).  Multiple attempts to grip these and/or stop them from spinning failed.  I needed to hold these from the backside to get the bolts out.
 
 
 
 
 
After removing the inside tailgate panel,  there is not direct access to them.  I was able to snake my fingers to one of them through an access hole, but not able to grip it with pliers or vise grips.
Luckily the inside panel covering the devices is fiberglass or plastic, is easily identified, and easy to cut with a dremel tool.
Below is picture of the access holes cut.  I then clamped on vise grips and was able to turn the bolts out.  Even then, the bolts did not want to easily release and turn. 
They definitely were corroded in tight.
With the vise grip still on, from the outside I then drilled off the device.
 
 

 
To replace the hardware, now with access to both side, there are options.  Simplest would be to use a standard nut, bolt, & washers.  Granted if/when the license plate would be to be changed again, it would require removing the inside tailgate panel again.  Another option would be to reverse the orientation of the bolt and nut so it becomes a stud.  The license plate would then be fastened on with a nut/acorn nut.  I went with option 3, those rubber expanding gizmo's from the hardware store (below).
The holes had to be enlarged slightly to access these, but again, its a fiberglass panel (easy to drill out).  The hardware store also had the plastic square nuts that snap in place, but I passed on this option as I was unsure about the thickness of the fiberglass and if the plastic nut would securely snap in.
 
 

 
For grins, I gooped on some adhesive caulk I had lying around and bolted up the plate.  The rubber expanded as expected when the bolts were tightened and gripped firmly.
 
 

 
 
When researching solutions, there are several postings in this forum mentioning incorrect license plate screws, screw that fell out, screws that would just pull out, etc...
This explains why.  The PO or used car dealer may have had a similar experience.
 
Merry Christmas!
 
 
 
 

Good example of what a bad rocker sounds like.
 

Without using test equipment we would be guessing. If it was a remanufactured alternator 3-4 years ago, I would think it’s probably the cause.  Charge up battery first and load test it. Then run car and see what alternator does. Measure voltage loaded and unloaded etc.
There is a huge fuse that protects electrical system from bad alternator doing any damage.  Even batteries seem to last shorter than a few years ago. Lots of load with all the power options, most cars have 160 amp alternators now. Typical car in the 1980s was probably 80amps.

Without using test equipment we would be guessing. If it was a remanufactured alternator 3-4 years ago, I would think it’s probably the cause.  Charge up battery first and load test it. Then run car and see what alternator does. Measure voltage loaded and unloaded etc.
There is a huge fuse that protects electrical system from bad alternator doing any damage.  Even batteries seem to last shorter than a few years ago. Lots of load with all the power options, most cars have 160 amp alternators now. Typical car in the 1980s was probably 80amps.

And I quote  … “Ensure the chosen vehicle aligns with everyone’s satisfaction.”  Although technically proper english, almost no one normally speaks like this.  But the ChatGPT or Chatbot what ever, is getting better.  Robo-Johan has almost the  same reputation rating as me. I wonder if I should even bother posting anymore. ?
And the chatbot apps unlike the rest of us…are getting paid, some how, hilarious. 

YUP, I agree with you ! AND it does not comprehend that it's been a "done deal" for 8 months and NOT just a possibility if it had scanned the whole thread of my posts here.
But I must also say that there's not much to be done about it, our moderator has asked for help and nobody has stepped up. I can barely do posts and beyond TYPING, I'm lost as to linking in photos or other info from the site to a posting....In other words I'm barely computer literate.
On a side note that we all be truthful, the '11 is now titled and insured in my son's name and resides at his home in the next town away from our home. So does this mean that I'm actually back to a 2 Journey family ? Yes I still "spearhead" the maint. work that it will require. IF he thinks something's wrong, he calls me. At least he has learned to check the oil and refill the washer tank!

And I quote  … “Ensure the chosen vehicle aligns with everyone’s satisfaction.”  Although technically proper english, almost no one normally speaks like this.  But the ChatGPT or Chatbot what ever, is getting better.  Robo-Johan has almost the  same reputation rating as me. I wonder if I should even bother posting anymore. ?
And the chatbot apps unlike the rest of us…are getting paid, some how, hilarious. 

https://www.autocodes.com/p06dd_dodge.html
 
There is a dealer ecm flash update for 2015-2017 Journey for nuisance oil pressure codes mentioned.
The poster from United Arab Emirates might have a issue getting update done. Even if pressure is ok, the codes might still trigger limp mode type issues. 
 
Pressure sensor harness is underneath intake manifold  between the cylinder heads on the oil cooler assembly. Lots of heat there, oil if it seeps a bit. Horrible place for access and wire trouble shooting.

Sorry to hear of the situation.
   With the myriad of electronics found in these and many other vehicles today, ground{-} connections are critical. You posted the battery is only 2 months old, so I'd doubt the battery. BUT who replaced it? Did the cable connectors get a good cleaning before going onto the new battery? Also the ground connections on the drivers side strut tower are known "weak links". Extreme cold will make marginal connections even worse.
When you can get to it{due to the weather}, a good cleaning and application of dielectric grease to battery posts/cable clamps and on the strut tower connections along with the RED {+} connection to the underhood fuse panel should get your ride up and going.
 
Welcome to the Forum and my what a wonderful weather time to have this problem occur!

oh well 152k and still going strong on mne

The fuse box configuration determines which fuses are on keyed or continuous power. So the wires leaving a keyed power outlet fuse would have to be rerouted to a spare fuse slot  that has continuous power set up. And vice versa.
 
It’s doable but would need to be done properly with solder and heat shrink and proper gauge wire.  It’s temping to just pig tail off the nearest existing wires. But you don’t want to overload circuits with unknown power loading. 
 
Usually not enough wire to just remove one connection from back of fuse and feed into another fuse. Automotive wire harness has very little built in slack imo.
 

Welcome to the site. Push button start very sensitive to getting full 12 volts to function. Battery warmer pad  rather than block heater would probably help.
 
Need a very strong battery at your temps, if it’s more than 3 yrs old or alternator weak you will have problems.  Cranking amps on battery and voltage output from alt need checking. BMS systems on newer cars might get in way where you are;   sees low voltage from cold and interprets as draw from item left on. Shuts system down. Sensor right at negative terminal of battery I think sends signal to pcm. 
 
Key fob has driver door lock key built in. Little tab releases key. May have to lube with deicer etc first time used. If fob battery dead or low, press end of fob against start button directly. Use it to cycle button,  signal gets picked up. 
Portable lithium booster packs , biggest you can find , helpful this time of year.
 
 
 

 

People get stuck and get carried away, burn up the silicon/oil.  Clutch plates get damaged and seals start leaking.
Subaru forums say it’s usually  1,000,000 (cst) PolyDimethylSiloxane fluid in most vc diffs.  Not much fluid 50-80 ml maybe,  measure accurately what comes out if possible. Could be half black paste and not meaureable. Getting Mopar fluid would help odds of successful fix.  Pic is of a Subaru vc .
 
Fluid should last life of vehicle I think; if not abused.  My 3 vc vehicles have never needed it changed. Although Jeep np249 transfer case was causing hopping at 200k miles. Needed it.