DodgeaWrench Posted December 22, 2023 Report Share Posted December 22, 2023 Time to replace the rear license plate. 10 minute job, right? Ah.... No. (2014 DJ - plates last replaced 10 years ago-ish.) I was unable to remove the bolts that hold the plate on. Both fastening devices attached to the tailgate for the bolts just spin, and spin, and spin. (They are not the plastic square nut type.) On researching further, this is a common problem across multiple manufacturers. To jump to the middle of the project, below is what the fastening devices look like AFTER the license plate was brutally removed. They are a type of soft metal, not plastic, internally threaded to accept the bolt. The license plate bolt corroded inside of these, locked tight, and these would just spin (instead of the bolt coming out). Temperatures were in the mid 30f's, which probably didn't help. The (red) body panel these are inserted in is fiberglass (not plastic nor metal). Multiple attempts to grip these and/or stop them from spinning failed. I needed to hold these from the backside to get the bolts out. After removing the inside tailgate panel, there is not direct access to them. I was able to snake my fingers to one of them through an access hole, but not able to grip it with pliers or vise grips. Luckily the inside panel covering the devices is fiberglass or plastic, is easily identified, and easy to cut with a dremel tool. Below is picture of the access holes cut. I then clamped on vise grips and was able to turn the bolts out. Even then, the bolts did not want to easily release and turn. They definitely were corroded in tight. With the vise grip still on, from the outside I then drilled off the device. To replace the hardware, now with access to both side, there are options. Simplest would be to use a standard nut, bolt, & washers. Granted if/when the license plate would be to be changed again, it would require removing the inside tailgate panel again. Another option would be to reverse the orientation of the bolt and nut so it becomes a stud. The license plate would then be fastened on with a nut/acorn nut. I went with option 3, those rubber expanding gizmo's from the hardware store (below). The holes had to be enlarged slightly to access these, but again, its a fiberglass panel (easy to drill out). The hardware store also had the plastic square nuts that snap in place, but I passed on this option as I was unsure about the thickness of the fiberglass and if the plastic nut would securely snap in. For grins, I gooped on some adhesive caulk I had lying around and bolted up the plate. The rubber expanded as expected when the bolts were tightened and gripped firmly. When researching solutions, there are several postings in this forum mentioning incorrect license plate screws, screw that fell out, screws that would just pull out, etc... This explains why. The PO or used car dealer may have had a similar experience. Merry Christmas! John/Horace, larryl, 2late4u and 2 others 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2late4u Posted December 22, 2023 Report Share Posted December 22, 2023 Glad I live in Alabama with my dodge journey, My 2014 doesn't have hardly a bit of rust underneath it,and you could eat your dinner off of my motor is you wanted to.with 152 k on it and being 10 yrs old it is still looking pretty good except for some of the hail spots we got right after we bought it while driving Thur Arizona and all the rock chips on the hood ...LOL oh well Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daniel Anderson Posted February 16 Report Share Posted February 16 I was wondering what size those old fasteners were. Two Missing on my vehicle.. I also have a gaping license fastener hole. Do you have any part Number for rubber inserts and screw Daniel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John/Horace Posted February 18 Report Share Posted February 18 (edited) I’m guessing m6 ish. If it’s a hole your starting over so it doesn’t matter. And if you try to buy one fastener from a dealer they will try to charge you $10 anyway. So waste of time. The captured nut for license plate bolt is not accessible from the back. Buy a kit like this pic, Wallymart or Crappy Tire will have it. Use a needle file(Princess Auto/Harbour Freight) to make a square hole in the fibreglass hatch. The stainless screws are Allen head for security. Another odd Journey issue. Edited February 18 by John/Horace Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John/Horace Posted February 18 Report Share Posted February 18 I have one bad retapped hole on hatch, other insert nut still ok. Plan is to use this repair kit. A drilled round hole is fine, plastic part designed for that. Kit was $8 ish. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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