TD Charlie Posted January 6, 2021 Report Share Posted January 6, 2021 I noticed about a month ago that the drivers window switch was occasionally just ignoring my clicks. I expected it to finally fail entirely at a drive through in a rain storm. This morning, it finally let go, but I was cruising and there was no rain at least. I'll document my journey here as I attempt to repair. Here are the facts for now: -All 4 switches are illuminated -When I first start the car, all four switches work. -Upon startup, I can control all four windows with the master switch. -After about a minute I lose all the windows but the switches remain illuminated -Once control is lost, the only "response" I get is when attempting to click the drivers window DOWN. The switch makes a rapid clicking (see attached) That's all I know so far. I see a Dorman replacement unit for about 70 bucks and a no name for 30. I just ordered both of them and I'll return whichever works and keeps the most money in my pocket. I noticed the reviews question the integrity of the side mirror button so we shall see. The car is also going into the shop tomorrow for a bumper replacement so I won't be troubleshooting in the car much. I've removed the switch for now and I will be taking it home to clean out the contacts inside of it, but won't be home for about a week. I'm thinking there's some sort of relay in the master that quit. It's gotta be something inside this master since I'm losing all the windows. IMG_0114.MOV Timothy Boland 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OhareFred Posted January 6, 2021 Report Share Posted January 6, 2021 There is, IIRC, a drivers door module that controls the switches, mirrors, etc. there is also complaints about the wire loom in the drivers door....the fact that it starts out working then fails leads me to think the module is bad. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TD Charlie Posted January 7, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 7, 2021 On 1/5/2021 at 9:04 PM, OhareFred said: There is, IIRC, a drivers door module that controls the switches, mirrors, etc. there is also complaints about the wire loom in the drivers door....the fact that it starts out working then fails leads me to think the module is bad. Thanks. I'm guessing that's buried in this futuristic door panel with the regulator. If my two master switches don't resolve the issue, I'll rip the panel off and dig around. Always best to start with the cheapest and least resistance =] But this all brings me back to a 1990 Cadillac I had. Plastic piece in the window track cracked and the guide popped out of the track. Motor was fine, but nothing held the window in the track. I got so used to popping that door panel off that if I went to a fast food drive through and the window fell to the floor, I could get out, remove the panel, pop the window back in, put the panel back on, and have the window functional again before I get my lunch. OhareFred 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OhareFred Posted January 7, 2021 Report Share Posted January 7, 2021 Not sure where the door module is, but it’s been discussed here before. Might be under the steering wheel, but I’m not sure. Let us know what you figure out! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TD Charlie Posted January 7, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 7, 2021 2 hours ago, OhareFred said: Not sure where the door module is, but it’s been discussed here before. Might be under the steering wheel, but I’m not sure. Let us know what you figure out! that’s the idea. Documentation for the next guy! Under the steering wheel might suck, we will see. My master switch arrives Tuesday I think. I will report back hopefully by Tuesday night. 2late4u and OhareFred 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TD Charlie Posted January 8, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 8, 2021 Got the car back tonight. Fuses are good. So I pulled the rubber back on the door jamb harness. Unfortunately i can only access the harness on one end because the rubber sheathing is held in by torx screws in the door. It’s also 20 degrees and pitch black, and I don’t have my tools with me. will attempt to get a full look at this harness over the weekend Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Armando G Posted January 9, 2021 Report Share Posted January 9, 2021 Pictures, take lots of pictures. That will be helpful in your documenting everything. And it will be well appreciated. Good luck ? 2late4u 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TD Charlie Posted January 9, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 9, 2021 Well i decided to take a look at the wiring in the door jamb. Outside of cutting the rubber sheathing (this will be my last resort) i inspected the wires at the grommet into the dash and the plastic cover over the door corner. Huge thumbs down to dodge for running the wires over the corner of the door instead of going straight through. I bet they saved a couple pennies per door by using plastic rather than rubber. I loosened the wiring in the door jamb and tried my old switch again. All of my windows work now, but the door locks don’t, and the UP function on the driver window has to be hit just right to function im starting to think the switch may actually be going bad, or contact points within are fouled up. It’s so damn cold outside and my hands are numb, so I’m done for now. Next thing to check is the new master switch which arrived Monday/Tuesday. If that doesn’t work i will be splitting open the rubber sheathing in the door jamb and inspecting the wires further. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Armando G Posted January 9, 2021 Report Share Posted January 9, 2021 Have you tried just cleaning the connections? If they work intermittently, it may just be a bad connection. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TD Charlie Posted January 9, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 9, 2021 42 minutes ago, Armando G said: Have you tried just cleaning the connections? If they work intermittently, it may just be a bad connection. lol still trying to locate a torx small enough to pop the screws off the underside of the switch just weird that messing with the slack in the wiring fixed one problem but spawned another. They really should have gone about this a different way Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TD Charlie Posted January 12, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 12, 2021 I think I'm ready to close this case. Two replacement switches arrived today so naturally I tried the cheaper option first, which I will link below. The cheapo switch works just fine, and the clicks on all buttons feel correct. Oddly enough, the Dorman (double the price) has a less responsive mechanical clicky feel to it, which I dislike. The Dorman switch also has a different (smoother) black finish to it. All functions of the switch are working. Auto down, up, all four windows, all direction in both mirrors, door lock/unlock, and window lock outs. The only thing I noticed is that the replacement switch has a slightly brighter blue light on the buttons. It is VERY hardly noticable. Do I think there are still pinched wires in the door jamb? Yes. I still think that's gonna bite me in the ass down the road. But for now, the issues are resolved, and it only took 30 bucks. Plus I got to learn a thing or two about the fuses and wiring for this particular function of the car. As promised: No name cheapo switch https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07TKSCFTW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Dorman switch https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FZL79DV/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 2late4u, Armando G and OhareFred 2 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Armando G Posted January 13, 2021 Report Share Posted January 13, 2021 So was the problem in the contacts of the switch itself? I had a key FOB that wasn't working and a new one was over $100. I bought a new pad for $3 and boom it worked. The contacts were not connecting anymore. Makes me wonder if there was some corrosion in your switch that made for a bad contact. In any case, glad it worked out and was a cheap fix. Thanks for keeping us posted. ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TD Charlie Posted January 13, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 13, 2021 11 minutes ago, Armando G said: So was the problem in the contacts of the switch itself? I had a key FOB that wasn't working and a new one was over $100. I bought a new pad for $3 and boom it worked. The contacts were not connecting anymore. Makes me wonder if there was some corrosion in your switch that made for a bad contact. In any case, glad it worked out and was a cheap fix. Thanks for keeping us posted. ? i don’t think it was the contacts since the malfunctioning buttons on the switch changed once i opened up the wiring in the door jamb. I really feel like there was a pinched wire and when i loosened it up it was good to go, but then i screwed something up on the driver mirror. Not sure if that was a switch issue or a wiring AND switch issue. The switch had to be at least partially at fault because the new one works. I did save the old one just in case. As of last night only the driver mirror left/right motion was busted on the old switch. For 30 bucks that’s what Pops would call “a sore dinky. You can’t beat it.” Armando G 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timothy Boland Posted February 11 Report Share Posted February 11 Hi TD Charlie, I had the same problem as you, but the problem returned a couple months after getting the new Master Switch. Leading me to believe that it is one or more of the wires is worn out. Is there a way to just get a new wire harness? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John/Horace Posted February 13 Report Share Posted February 13 I’m pretty sure dealer will sell driver door wire harness if it’s in stock. But it’s not likely to be cheaper than fixing bad wires with solder and heat shrink. Even multi strand wire eventually gives in to metal fatigue. Better designs and optimal temperature help life span. Think of it as fixing the weakest link. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larryl Posted February 13 Report Share Posted February 13 Here was my problem a new harness fixed all my issues John/Horace 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.