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Found 18 results

  1. I have a 2010 Journey SXT, 3.5 V6. Does anyone have a schematic of the electrical? Since I got it I have had intermittent issues with the electrical, primarily on the drivers side. I have replaced the entire wiring around the headlight twice on that side because it burnt up from to much power going to it. The keyless entry was almost nonexistent on the drivers side, working when you were 2 feet from the door and now not at all. If we lock the door we have to use the key inside the FOB to open it which sets off the alarm; sometimes the alarm will not go off unless we physically start the car and move it 20 to 30 feet. I have replaced the FOB batteries, had the FOBs tested (both test fine), and bought a new FOB just in case. I do not know where the sensor sits inside the car to diagnose if it is the problem but now other electrical components are having issue so I suspect a larger electrical issue. twice the alarms and horn started going off when we weren't even near the vehicle and the keys were hung up. The AC blend air doors have shorted out twice on the drivers side as well. electrical issues are a huge pain so I have been fixing as needed but I think I should find the final solution. Any ideas on where to start diagnosis would be great.
  2. I've been having random (what I think are) electrical problems. Driver's window (and only the driver's) is sometimes hard to roll up. I have to pull up hard on the switch (constant problem) Radio occasionally is extremely loud when I turn the car on. Doesn't matter how low the volume is when I turn the car off, it's still very loud when I turn it back on, even though the volume level remains at, say, 4-5. (Intermittent Problem) Cruise control won't turn on at all anymore (constant problem) Climate control randomly turns on or off while driving (intermittent problem) "Back" button on the steering wheel sometimes has to be pressed rather hard to get it to work, and doesn't always register that it is being pressed (intermittent problem) Anyone have any ideas what could cause all of this or what I should look for? I have a '12 SXT.
  3. Hey, hope this is in the right place but I've been having this plaguing issue with the ETC (electronic throttle control) on my Journey. I've had the throttle body replaced entirely at a dodge dealership, and even went as far as getting new key FOBs. For some reason, no matter what I seem to do the car continually goes into "limp mode" within a few months of getting it repaired meaning that I can start the vehicle but I cannot accelerate past a slow idle. I've seen some info on the web regarding others having a similar problem but I'm at my wits end. Not sure whether to just sell the car at this point (151k miles), get a second opinion from a new mechanic, or to attempt to run the codes myself. Any help would be appreciated
  4. I have a 2013 Journey SXT 4 Cyl. When ever the Traction Control or ABS is activated my radio screen flashes off then on again but the audio stays on. Some times there is such a draw it pulls many dash lights and chimes at me then is back up to power again. I also have a flickering of the head lights when the car is idling and when I run the windows the headlights dim noticeably. Auto Zone did a quick alternator check and it showed that it was charging. Could this really be a battery issue? Thanks,
  5. Approx 3 weeks ago battery saver light came on while driving home. All warning lights came on shortly after (20minutes)into drive. Car started losing gear. Made it home. Had alternator checked by two different places. Says its fine. Had battery replaced. Was ok for one day then it happened again after sitting overnight. Currently waiting for tow as it wont start after picking kids up from school. (2min trip). What is wrong???? Any ideas would be helpful.
  6. Dodge Journey RT 2010, I have replaced, alternator, battery, starter, we had the battery grounded with additional cable. The car will not hold a charge. What is the quickest way to get to the issue. I have read Blue Tooth may be draining the system. Please advise.
  7. Okay.. I have a 2010 Dodge Journey with the 2.4 litre. It has 140,000km's on it. (85,000 miles) It has the strangest intermittent starting issue I have ever seen. DEALER COULDN'T FIND THE PROBLEM I will describe this the best I can. Went to the bank today. 10 minutes of driving. Came out and it cranked over fine and it would fart occasionally but not catch. I would let go of the key and when it did the starter would stop. Tried again with pumping gas pedal but even by adding gas pedal it didnt fire up or change any farting behaviour. I doubt that gas is the problem. I have put in cans of Sea Foam over the last few fuel fills and I even tried running 94 octane But here is what also happened on 3 of 10 or 15 starting attempts. The whole car would shake like the engine and starter was running but when i let go of the key and the key sprang back to the run position, the starter kept running on its own along with the maybe idling engine...even though the key sprang back. As it does this, the car kinda shakes which is why i think that the engine is actually idling with the starter motor running along with it. I wish i thought to open the door to see if i heard the exhaust as that might have helped confirm if the engine was idling. Also could be a separate problem that the starter motor is not disengaging. Whatever tells the starter to keep cranking and not let go. Is there a module or relay or solenoid i dont know? But if you wait a few minutes then the car starts fine This seems to be the pattern. It usually only happens with a hot engine. Only on one occasion did it not start when cold. But then started fine after a couple hours Also when it did start , the starter and engjne maybe idling at the same time, this would last for 4 or 5 seconds and then it would all stop together ANY HELP IS GREATLY APPRECIATED.
  8. So my rear wiper stopped working, and I discovered the wiring that comes out of the body and into the hatch was the culprit. Apparently, this was a common problem with wires getting damaged. Soldered the wires back together and now everything works as it should. However, I cut this rubber boot that was protecting the wires and now I need to replace it. I have had some trouble finding this part and would love for someone to tell me a part number, or even what it is called to help me search for it.
  9. Hi All, Has anyone replaced their TIPM with a used/refurbished unit? (TIPM=Totally Integrated Power Management) If so, what year is your Journey, where did you get the TIPM, what issues did you have, did you require dealer assistance, did you need to reprogram, would you recommend? Any info appreciated! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hVBlRqlVCh8 https://www.totalintegratedpowermodule.com/ http://www.verticalvisions.com/TIPM_solutions.php https://www.dormanproducts.com/p-83320-599-926.aspx?year=2010&make=Dodge&model=Journey&parttype=Integrated%2520Control%2520Module&origin=YMM
  10. Is there a common electrical/electronic component to these two failures? Door lock - doesn't work. Door unlock DOES work. Remote or button. Front windshield washer fluid pump does not work. Rear windshield washer fluid pump DOES work (I know its the same pump!). I am ready to try replacing something in the hopes it will fix my electrical issues without a confirmed diagnosis already, in the hopes all my issues disappear. And in the might be related category: rear wheel drive engagement for AWD is not smooth when turning. Mechanic actually disconnected it for me. Occassionally (especially after rain maybe), absolutely no electrical at all. Waiting a couple minutes and all is well. Occasionally no start. Just a click. Wait 20 minutes and it might start. Eventually it will. New starter and new battery has not solved. Shawn. 2010 Dodge Journey R/T AWD
  11. 2013 dodge Jouney RT. the rear back up cam wasn't working then the I washed the engine and the rear camera worked again but the rear hatch button stopped working. Washed the engine again the back up camera stopped working and the button works again. Is there a switch/ line has anyone else experienced this.
  12. My 2013 Journey Crew has developed a problem with the left front turn signal (driver's side). About April 2017 the turn signal stopped working (rapid flash of the dash turn signal and the message came up: "Turn Signal Lamp out" with an icon of a lamp pointing to the left front. I stopped by O'Reilly Auto Parts and picked up a pack of 3757A bulbs to swap out the failed lamp. But on the way home, the left front turn signal started working again so I left the 3757 package in the glove box. Then three day's ago (6/10/17), the same problem happened and the turn signal stopped working. Today, I pulled the turn signal socket and replaced the 3757AK but the new bulb did not flash and the message center continued to display the Turn signal Lamp out message. I put the original bulb back into the socket and took the car in to my Dodge dealer for the scheduled oil change and asked the service writer to check the left turn "bulb out" problem. Three hours later, the service writer came out and said that it will take another four hours to open the passenger side fender and trace down the problem. He said that the technician traced power into the fender but not out to the left turn signal. Since I had run out of time today, I asked him to button it back up and we would schedule a time to work on the issue. Does this make sense to any of you forum members? I hate to commit to four hours to disassemble the right side fender at an estimated cost of $540 plus Tax. I asked if there is any charge on my ticket today for this diagnostic and was told "no." One other bit of information is that I have had an after market trailer wiring adapter (T-OneĀ® Connectors 118536) installed August 2015 without having any issues with the trailer lights or turn signals on the Journey. September 2016 I had the Hands free module replaced after it failed to work. The turn signal issue did not appear for many months after that so I don't think that it is related.
  13. Hi All, So I have the dreaded battery drain problem. 2014 Crossroad. All good until last week, then suddenly wouldn't start. Enough power to power locks, display, etc. but not enough to turn the engine over. Jump started fine. Took it into the dealer, who didn't listen to a word I said about BCM, etc. After arguing if I should pay a diagnostic fee under warranty, they finally just replaced the battery. 2 days later, new battery dead. The battery takes a charge to 100%, and if I disconnect it, holds that charge. I have wired a Noco indicator connector, and the battery drains around 25% every 24hrs. Of course this happens when we have a 5000km road trip planned starting in 4 days! We do not have time to leave the car in the shop for 4 days for them to re-create the issue. I have searched the forum and found lots of information for diagnosis and talk of TBNs, but none actually list the specific TBN for re-flashing the BCM... Does anyone have this? Looks like I may have to go buy a small booster pack to stop us getting stranded in the middle of nowhere
  14. Hi, help please! Two weeks ago my 2009 Journey started to go into limp mode every time ignition key goes from ACC to OFF position, regardless if car started and/or driven prior to that. There are no engine codes. I took it to a Dodge dealer and they believe it is an electrical issue but wanted 5-6 hours of labour to start digging. Have to remove connection to the onboard computer every time key goes to OFF position. If I leave it in ACC position battery drains pretty quickly. Right now driving with a wrench and removing positive connection form the on board computer every time I shut the engined and move key to OFF. Searched the web and could not find anything similar. The car is in great condition 120K and would be unfortunate to wreck it. Thank you for any help on the topic.
  15. I have a 2009 Dodge Journey R/T, and everything was working fine until one day I noticed that occasionally while driving the stereo and navigation system display would get all distorted and then lose power completely. A couple minutes later however it would power on again. A few days later I went to start the vehicle (and it had been running earlier that day) and it would not start. It just made a clicking sound as if the battery had been drained. I used another vehicle with jumper cables to start it, and it fired up right away. However, in order to keep it running I had to press on the gas to keep the engine rpm up to at least 2000 rpm or so. If I left it to idle, the battery warning light symbol would come on, and all the other warning lights would light up just as they do when you turn the key on before starting the engine. Pressing on the gas a bit would make these lights go off as well as the battery one. If left to idle any longer the engine would just die after a couple of minutes. I thought it might have been the battery causing the problems so I put a charger on it for a while and was still unable to start the vehicle. I removed the battery, charged it up and used a tester on it. It is rated for 640 CCA and tested at 590 and at a voltage of 12.9 V. The tester indicated that the battery was good. When I tried using a different vehicle jumpered on to the battery connections of this vehicle, It would not start it either. The dash lights would light up when connected and the power locks would make a sound like they were trying to work. Only the rear power windows would work not the front ones. It appears there is next to no current available from the electrical system to run these components. When I removed the cables after having been attached only a couple of minutes, and also when I had the battery attached to the vehicle and had the battery charger on it, I noticed that the alternator became VERY hot to the touch. This was not when the vehicle was running - only when it was charging from either the battery charger or from being jumpered on to another vehicle's battery. It appears nearly all of the current flowing into the electrical system is being lost to the form of heat at the point of the alternator, judging from how hot that alternator became. Could this indicate a bad alternator? Is there some component of an alternator such as a diode or something that could be causing a short within the system that is draining the battery and preventing it from starting the vehicle? Or is it possible that there is a short somewhere else? The fact that the alternator got so hot made me think that it could be at that point where the problem is, but I thought maybe it could be anywhere along the circuit and the whole thing may in fact heated up like that, but I thought a fuse would've blown somewhere or something. If I can save the expense of having it towed/hauled to a garage that would be great because I live in a rural area and a repair shop is quite a distance away from me. Thanks very much for any advice
  16. R/H/S Rear door locking via the central locking does not work any more on my 2010 Dodge Journey SXT. This is a right-hand drive car, so the door is directly behind the driver's door (in case there is a difference). The problem was intermittent at first but now seems to be permanent. Affects this one door only. This is not a case of mechanical interference as I am able to manually pull up / down the button inside the car. The door operates as normal aside from this central locking issue. I removed the door card to try and check for any obvious issues. After much labor, I managed to remove the actuator from inside the door body and disconnect the electric feed. Funny thing is, when I reconnected the feed, the lock started operating again via the key. My initial hurrahs were short-lived however, as the problem returned the next day. Thinking that this may be a Body Control Module issue that may have reset when I disconnected the actuator, I disconnected the main battery via the Negative jump terminal under the hood to see whether the lock would start working again. Sure the car went dead so I assume the supply to the BCM was cut, however, when I reconnected the battery (after 30 mins), the door lock problem was still there. Has anyone else experienced this issue, or know a better way of isolating the cause? Incidentally, when I removed the actuator from the car, I found a wrap of insulation tape. I've had this car from new so it must have come from the factory that way. I could just buy a new actuator and try my luck but I'm not yet convinced that's the problem, even though (to me) that looks the most likely cause. I'd appreciate any help. Pic of door actuator disconnected from electrical supply:-
  17. I have a 2009 Journey R/T with 3.6L V6 AWD and for a while have been experiencing battery drain whenever the vehicle is left for more than a few hours. After several unsuccessful attempts at finding out the cause for this, I decided to temporarily install a 500A switch to isolate the battery from the rest of the vehicle's electrical system, to prevent having to jumpstart the vehicle every morning. This has been effective in this regard for a while now, however, the other day while travelling on the highway the vehicle started experiencing a loss of power for a second or so, then power would be restored, and this would randomly repeat for the remainder of my trip. Then, upon my arrival at my destination city, when coming up to a stop sign and the engine idled down, the power loss occurred again only this time the engine died. When I attempted to start it immediately after this, I found there was no charge left in the battery whatsoever - no dash lights,no sound....couldn't even shift from park without using the manual release button. I then used a charged battery to boost the vehicle, and it fired up, but after continuing to drive a short distance, the same thing happened again, I then noticed the battery symbol for the charging system had appeared. Then the vehicle could only been driven with limited power and only without using any headlights for a short time (constantly requiring me to press the accelerator to prevent idling too low) before it would die again with the battery drained. I have checked all the connections, all the cables, swapped the battery for a different one, removed the battery and jumpered it directly to another running vehicle, all with the same result. It will fire up, and run for a short time, then the charging system symbol will light up, and the engine will die shortly thereafter. It will run for a while jumpered to another vehicle, but even during this time the warning light will still come on. I removed the alternator and had it tested - it passed all tests and I was told it was good. I should also mention that this alternator was purchased and installed just 8 or 9 months ago, and the battery was only purchased a month or two ago. The belts appears to be working properly and with the correct amount of tension, and as far as I can see all of the conncections are solid and free of corrosion, etc. I'm uncertain as to where I should go from here, and after being left stranded several hours from home for a few days now (everywhere being closed for Christmas) and the expense of hotel rooms, I don't wish to throw a bunch more money away for the dealership to try all the things I've already tried, with no guarantee of results. I am planning to run a diagnostic tomorrow to see if this yields any additional information as to the possible cause of the problem, but am hoping maybe another forum member could provide some insight if they have encountered a similar issue in the past. Thanks in advance for your assistance.
  18. Occasionally, after turning off, I will hear a relay wildly, randomly clicking behind the dash. It will stop after several seconds. I see no indicators or lights flashing. All systems, except the accessory outlets in the console and passenger area, seem to work fine. The rear outlet works ok. Are these issues related? Any ideas?