2late4u

i would not turn any rotor that you have been having problems wit warpage or shudder, you would only be wasting your time and money by making a bad rotor even thinner. that said had my first brake problem at about 10 k and the dealer turned them and then about 28k started having more shuddering so was able to talk dealer into replaceing fronts pads and rotors as a goodwill gesture. now about 30 k later( 63k usa) not having no shudder or any problems with my brakes also i dont do much in town driving i am thinking i will do my rears pads and fronts again in about march or april waiting on wagner to run their rebate offer about this time of year. since not having any problems front or rear with shudder or any rotor problems will just replace the pads. i know most people say you should turn the rotors when doing a brake job but have done this many times before with no problems.also if you use ceramic pads they WILL cause more heat and makes the rotors heat up alot more and i will not use them i always stick with wagner thermo-quite pads and they last forever for me.

This has been asked before with no answer. No diesels here in the US. Hopefully someone from across the pond will chime in. Do you not have a owners manual? Can you call your locsall dealer and ask?
I did find a pic of the oil filter housing here >> http://www.mopar.com/part/68103969AA?s=353095&i=2234199&b=dodge
Might just have to pull the plastic engine cover off and start looking. It is an internal filter accessible by a cap somewhere.

why do people post problems and or questions and never post back what happened or if they got it fixed? guess its easier to complain about something than share what they did to fix their problem or what they found out and how to resolve the problem......

take it to auto zone or advance auto for a free scan

take it to auto zone or advance auto for a free scan

better check the aligment on your town and country if they are wearing on the outside edges faster the the middle...

better check the aligment on your town and country if they are wearing on the outside edges faster the the middle...

I kind of figured seeing one post about poor fuel economy and another on tires wearing quickly that it would be an indication of their driving habits. The only other thread missing by the OP is the one of brakes wearing quickly and that would seal the deal on how they drive.

maybee the Marks front tires were somewhat still good meaning the org owner never rotated his tires also city driving and hard stopping and fast take offs wears the tires out alot faster then normal. which might be true as he also posted about getting bad gas mileage if a different posting.anyways everyone has a different opinion of kumos and as i stated before i got at least 60k out of them and other bloggers have said about the same . so i think its more of how you drive(all city VS a good mix of hwy and city driving) and rotate your tires. happy trails everyone...............

maybee the Marks front tires were somewhat still good meaning the org owner never rotated his tires also city driving and hard stopping and fast take offs wears the tires out alot faster then normal. which might be true as he also posted about getting bad gas mileage if a different posting.anyways everyone has a different opinion of kumos and as i stated before i got at least 60k out of them and other bloggers have said about the same . so i think its more of how you drive(all city VS a good mix of hwy and city driving) and rotate your tires. happy trails everyone...............

i would take it back to the dealer as it should have been there from the factory, they might even fix the paint for you if not i would call the custermer support and go thur them offer to go halfs on the cost as it was dodges fault that the part was missing on that side good luck... also remember be nice and keep any and all paperwork on this problem....

I would be interested in the process of putting the DJ into Transport Mode. Can you share? Are there any disadvantages to entering Transport mode? TIA.
Peace.

i just googled this problem and sounds like you got off cheap on this problem if their was an actual problem that they act fixed and it doesnt come back. have never heard of this one have had clocksprings problems before but only under warrenty and recall notice good luck. damm cars are getting just to dam hard to work pretty soon we really will have muffer bearings going bad on our cars LOL

It's your car. Do with it what you will. You don't need anyone's permission.

have about 62k on my 2011 mainstreet, a little problems with brakes but so far dealer took care of them frt and rear will be done my self this spring...

Cold does affect cranking power. As the temperature drops so does the reserve cranking amps. At about -20 C you effectively lose 60% of the cranking power and at -40 C it looses over 80%. If you have a weak battery it can still turn over an engine in warm weather but when it gets cold you find out very quickly you have a weak battery. You also compound everything else is cold including engine oil the battery must do a tremendous amount of work to crank over the engine. That is why before I get too concerned about my remote start I am going to check the condition of the battery with a load test. If it checks out good, then I will going to the dealer to find out what is wrong.

Don't know if it will work but try pulling the fuse for the radio, wait a couple of mins and put it back in, maybe it will reset. Can't hurt anyway!

check the fuse

In 2001 your fob wasn't always interacting with your vehicle
as these newer models do , everytime you approach your DJ
the fob and the body control module are sensing and even
more so if you take advantage of the remote start feature.

Me thinks any vehicle is difficult to handle in icy conditions driving that fast. Maybe slow down some?

I would reset it and start over. I dont put much stock in those MPG readouts anyway, hardly ever look at mine. IMO they are just a fancy gimmick. If you want true MPG, do it the old fashioned way, calculate by hand.

i have a 2011 3.6 and used the free dealer oil changes which they use reg oil. now after the free oil changes used up i switched to full syn oil which i have used for the last 10-15 yrs do not use blended syn oil as what i have read its not as good. one note i tried to upgrade my free oil changes to using syn oil and my dealership couldnt give me a firm price to use the syn and then the last oil change they quoted me about $50. for them to up grade to syn . i laughed and told them no way... buy your syn mobil one or penzoil or any syn oil ( i always catch mine on sale ahead of time i have about 4 jugs of it now) should cost between $20 to $26 a jug and then i get a oil filter from the dealer for about $6-$7 and do my own oil changes( real easy to do) mind you will need an extra half quart (5.5 quarts) so about $30. to do it at home about $70. down at the quickee oil change. also i go about 9k between oil changes my old van went 10 to 11k and my daughter is still driving it on her postal route. doesnent use a bit of oil.....

do what the pad manufacture says to do . i know wagner thermo-quite pads say if you use anything it will void the warrenty dont know why. but i use them all the time and will use them for my journey this spring when i do both the front and back i am at 60k miles right now.

google them,

I agree, anyone can get on here and say they have resolved the issues with their products. I would like to hear back from adudinsk and find out if they made it right.