Doug D

Possible CAN C bus issue (Cabin Area Network) - the warning lights cycling, and speedometer going to zero are the clues. Did the wipers wipe every 2 seconds even though they were off? This happened to our '09 Journey at 38K miles and just out of warranty. Ended up trading it for a lightly used '10 Journey SXT. Wife nicknamed it "Christine" for the remaining few days we had it.

Not sure if this applies to my '10 Journey SXT, but the owner's manual for my '06 Ram 1500 recommends disconnecting the battery if the vehicle is to sit without being operated or started for more than 3 weeks. That said, we went away for 18 days at Christmas one year (visited my in-laws for the holidays). I left the batteries in both vehicles connected. When we arrived home, both the Journey and Ram fired right up.

As posted, check your owner's manual. If the 14's are anything like the '10 I have as long as you have all the keys you can program additional keys using the procedure in the owner's manual (if it is indeed in there). However, if one key is missing or lost, you'll have to visit your favorite dealer. Expect to pay about one hour's labor (in our area that's $100 or so).

Have the dealer check for any open (uncompleted) recalls. As I recall there was a recall concerning the engine abruptly shutting off. I believe I had it done on our '10 Journey. It involved the ignition - a very simple fix. The coolant leakage is a totally different issue. If it is still under warranty have the dealer look at it. If not, I suggest having it checked at your favorite local shop.

Yes, trucks have a different mission (carrying heavier loads and towing) than most passenger vehicles so, yes, truck tires usually last longer. My '06 has a rougher ride than our Journey, but it's not as rough as previous trucks I've driven. The 4th generation Ram's ('09+) with the coil spring set up have a car like ride - we had a '10 Ram 1500 with the 4.7L for a weekend at the dealer's expense when our Journey was having some recalls taken care of. The '10 Ram rode just as smooth as the Journey - better than my '06, but I still preferred my '06 with its Hemi (345hp). The 4.7L (330 hp) just didn't have the same pull. Furthermore - trucks with the old leaf spring set up (like my '06) actually ride smoother when they have a load in the bed. It's when they're empty they tend to bounce around a bit.

I don't totally buy into OEM tires spec'd so that they wear out quickly though I can understand if they are a softer compound to give a nice soft ride- yes, they may wear quicker if a driver is aggressive. If this is true, can someone explain how the OEM Michelins on my Ram lasted 111,000 miles? The OEM Kumho's on both the '09 Journey and the '10 Journey we've had were basically worn out at 40K miles. I put Firestone Affinity tires on the '10 at 42K miles and after 30K they are about 1/3 worn. Funny how the ride feels the same as the Kumho's. The OEM tires (forget what brand - GY I think) I had on the '92 Acclaim we bought new lasted 60K miles easily. Whether the Kumho's were spec'd by Chrysler or not, I am not impressed and won't purchase them as replacement tire for any vehicle I have in the future.

I would have checked the connections first and given it a good charge before flat out replacing the battery, but what's done is done. Good write up (even without the comma's.....). FWIW - in general my batteries usually last 5-6 years even though it gets dreadfully hot and humid during the summer, The MoPar battery in my '06 Ram was 7 years old when I replaced it. It wasn't having issues but I figure I was on borrowed time after 5-6 years of usage. Replaced it with another MoPar battery - had a coupon from the dealer. I have had some odd occurences over the years. A Sears DieHard I had in a Ford Aerostar died when it was exactly 60 months old - yes it was a 60 month battery. And our former '00 T&C Ltd AWD (loaded) seemed to eat batteries. The original battery only lasted 42 months and the replacement was 45 months when it started not having issues. Guess it was from all the electrical crap the van had - power windows, Affinity Stereo, video system, leather power heated seats, etc.

A solid CEL means a DTC (Diagnostic Fault Code) has been recorded and as pointed out a basic code reader is needed to retrieve the code. Your only options are to have the code read at a shop ($$), Advance or AutoZone (free) or order and have shipped a code reader shipped. Right now the CEL on our Journey is intermittently on/off - codes indicate it is the EGR (P0406). But I found out the EGR is not cheap - best price was at Rockauto ($82 + shipping). AA and AZ wanted ~$125.

We are on our 2nd Journey. Bought a 2009 SXT in early 2008 (March). Three years later we ended up trading it for a lightly used 2010 SXT - the 2010 had a few additional features the 2009 did not - roof rack and fog lights. The 2009 had developed a CCN issue - all the warning lights cycling on/off - was past the original warranty and we didn't have an extended warranty. Never did find out what the repair cost was but I knew it wouldn't be cheap. Plus wife had lost all confidence in it - called it "Christine" the last few days we had it.

Reminds me of a story a fellow college student relayed to me. He was a technician for a dept store (long since out of business) that had a auto service dept. This was about 25 years ago. Seems a lady had brought her vehicle in for a simple oil change. Another technician performed the service. He drained the old oil, installed a new filter, but got sidetracked and forgot to put in the fresh oil. Pulled car out of the stall and parked it. Customer paid for the service, but was back a short time later complaining her car was making strange noises. Long story short, the dept had to pay for new engine to be installed. About $5,000 at the time. Technician was fired. I generally do my own oil changes, but I do on occasion have it done at the dealer or the few shops I trust. I didn't see the original post, but I think I would have had it towed back to the shop/dealer that did the service. An engine with little or no oil is going to make some strange noises - usually a knocking type sound.

Just remember, with any vehicle if it's idling fuel mileage = 0 mpg. Ain't no way of getting around it. And as with anything there are trade offs - if you let your vehicle idle a lot, don't expect good fuel mileage or anything approaching its fuel mileage rating. I know you all in the Great White North have much colder temps than most of us in the US, but, in general, an engine will warm up faster if it's driven than if it's left idling. The engine creates warms up faster doing work than just idling doing little or no "work". On a typical subfreezing morning, I have heat in my vehicles (Ram and Journey) by the time I've gone 2-3 miles. In subzero temps it takes a little longer, but not much. Typically our Journey (3.5L V6) gets 19-20 mpg in local driving and 25-26 mpg on the highway.

The short answer is a resounding no. Webslave is spot on. I wouldn't even think of towing another car with my Journey - even a SmartCar (my daughter's boyfriend has one - it weighs around 1500 lbs). By the time you factor in the tongue rating, safety margins, etc, you'd be lucky to tow half the weight of the Scion. A Journey is designed to tow light trailers - nothing more. According to Dodge my '06 Ram 1500 as currently configured has a tow rating of 7,750 lbs - by the time I factor in the tongue weight, safety margin (10-15%) and other other cargo, the max weight I can tow is around 5,000-6,000 lbs. Best I can suggest is find another driver, ship it, or drive the Journey down, fly back and then drive the Scion.

I have a 2010 Journey SXT 3.5L 68K miles. The CEL is periodically staying on. A code check revealed P0406 EGR. I will be ordering on from Rockauto.com - so far they other cheapest at $82 + shipping. Advance Auto and AutoZone want $125.99 and it has to be ordered. NAPA is slightly cheaper at $111. Haven't checked with the local dealer yet - I don't think they'll beat RockAuto. Anyway - does anyone know where the EGR is located on the 3.5L? On my '06 Ram 1500 w/Hemi it was right up front - real easy access. It was also much cheaper - only $77 at the time (dealer only). AA and AZ now have them for $41.99 - go figure.

I have a 2010 Journey SXt with fog lights. Don't know if they changed the switch on the '11's but to activate the fog lights on my '10 you pull out on the switch. To access the fog light bulbs do the following. If accessing the driver's side, turn the wheels to the right - there should be a panel to access the bulb. To access the passenger side, turn the wheels to the left. If anyone knows where they can find replacement bulbs for the fog lights please post the information. Most local auto parts stores (Advance Auto, Auto Zone, NAPA) don't stock them and the dealer is far to expensive. So far the cheapest I've found is on Amazon - $12.85 plus shipping.

1) check the fluid level. (it's easy to overlook the obvious) 2) check the hoses for leaks, disconnects, etc. Had an issue with ours - noticed it wasn't working but hear the pump. Come to find out something (mouse?) had chewed several holes in both sets of hoses. Bought about 8' of line at Advance (and some extra connectors) and replaced most of the lines. 3) make sure you are using washer fluid that is rated for cold weather. I use a 50/50 mix during the summer, but have to remember to switch over to 100% by winter. If I don't then the fluid has a tendency to freeze in the lines but not in the resevoir. 4) check to make sure the pump is working - whether or not there is fluid you should still hear a slight whurrr....