John/Horace

Is it the orange coolant or has it been switched to green.  The two are not compatible, mixing can form gel in the system if proper flushes not done before switching. Google it. Some core failures may be related to that. 

Nice pics and write up.  So clean underneath, definitely not a rust belt car.  The entire Harbour Freight  set probably cost less the a single snap on crow foot. Tool pays for itself on one job.
If you haven’t made your own tool to fix a car….your not a real back yard mechanic. Cheers.

Well it's been 2 months without further problems, I think it's ok. I talked to a mechanic that works for a multi brand dealership an is factory certified by Toyota and GM. He claims that this isn't unusual, he also said that the easiest way to flush a transmission is to unhook the transmission lines to an from the radiator run one into a bucket an set the other on up with funnel on it. Start the vehicle and pour fluid in and it runs out, keep doing this until the fluid coming out look like the fluid going in, then shut it off and change the fluid/filter as normal. Only downside is that you use 3-4 gallons of fluid.

Helpful post and link. I’ve wedged my head under the dash fighting with those tiny motors.  Funny click noise and then working again with the fresh air blender door motor.  Poke from screw driver frees it up when you hear the big click. Small spray of silicone afterwards.

Have a replacement motor from Rockauto for the next time it stops. I think it’s the motor that is always cycling on shut down to vent cabin air.  Not looking forward to doing it. Windows fog up like crazy when it sticks. At least it’s not a heater core issue in my case.
 
My passenger blend  motor has yet to stick. Something to look forward to. ?

well went to use the air a little bit today cold on the drivers side and hot on the passenger side no matter when moving from the reg vents to the floor or into the def mode still cold on drivers side and hot on passenger side, so I let down the glove box and then also moved the padded panel under the glove box so I could see better and the blend door wasn't moving at all so I wiggled the electrical connector a bit and also tapped on the blend door with a long screwdriver and then it started working again,,now this was the small blend door on the left side of the glove box and towards the back NOT the big vanilla color wheel attached to a different blend door,, the one I was working on controls JUST the heat or ac for the passenger side and the controls for the vents do NOT make it move,so don't get that confused in your mind I added a small video that I found on the web...............
 

I didn't grind any paint off the studs but I did  cleaned it real good with a wire brush and I live in Alabama with  almost no salt problems like most experience ,I even ran a separate ground from the negative battery jump points to the wires and ground stud and that didn't make any difference as well, It turned off cold again today around 55 degrees so I didn't mess with it but I did take it to my most trusted mechanic one  that I only  will use and showed and explained everything that has went on and what I had done  and was asking if it would be worth cutting off the 2 ground lugs connectors and maybe a couple of inches of wire   off the wires and reattach new ones, and,his advise to me was to leave it alone, as he said most times when it has the  internal problem  failure code then it is the unit going bad even if it is just intermittent and since it will  be covered under my warranty if we start messing with it they might try to deny my warranty claim on the repair that is  IF they ever get a replacement part,so the only thing I don't like is the cruise control not working it isn't a serious problem to me, just frustrating...........BUT I still have that nagging feeling that it is due to the ground wires are involved....

The head gasket is below the valve cover (the one in the picture) has holes for the oil and water circulation and have the intake and exhaust valves

New member Maz showed this pic of his speedo last week,  converts to 253k miles. Maybe he will respond with his repair laundry list, might be interesting. Freemont models from Europe etc wouldn’t add much to these annual total I think.

 
 
Hello, am new to the forums and require some help.. I have a 2015 Dodge Journey SXT 3.6 engine, my heater only heat while the car is idle but when I’m driving, it blows cold air, any idea what could be causing this to happen?

And sometimes it shows this electric symbol on my dash - see picture below 

With my luck the FIRST TIME I'd use the horn...... I would be caught and ticketed.    

I mean it's only illegal if you get caught lmao ? ? ? ? ? ? 

As for the programming a "hi line" for remote start....
 I tried to do the same for our 2011 Mainstreet and it would not take either. I suspect that even though I added in the hood safety switch, that the car is not equipped with the rest of the stuff under the dash to activate it, thus the same message. This MAY be a case of TRIM LEVEL an owner is working with, higher trim levels may work fine having the rest of things already installed by the factory.
 I also have a 2014 SXT that I did successfully program in the remote start function and followed the same steps of this car when trying to do the 2011.

Inside wiper assembly is a switch that parks blades when they are turned off. Makes sure they go to the right place.
When you physically turn stalk switch off they will still cycle to the low parked position which finally kills the power.
Im guessing that internal wiper motor switch is flaky and not doing the final power off. 

Took forever to get a pedal assembly with the UAW strike. Been a few days since I got it installed, no complaints yet; seems to have solved my particular issue.
 
Aside, someone with a 3d printer could make a few pennies fabricating that plastic bit. It's a weak point and likely will be in demand as these vehicles get older. Pedal assembly isn't cheap for getting just that piece..

The Ford Aerostar vans with the V6 engines were another night mare. There was a doghouse cover in the lower dash for accessing some engine components like distributor cap. Three spark plugs on driver side were barely changeable from under hood. Then two more through passenger wheel well with tire off. Last plug had to be changed from underneath the van with several extensions. Very nasty job, for any mechanic. But they at least used platinum plugs which lasted quite well.
 
Yeah , Journey is far from the worst car to work on for repairs.
 

The Ford Aerostar vans with the V6 engines were another night mare. There was a doghouse cover in the lower dash for accessing some engine components like distributor cap. Three spark plugs on driver side were barely changeable from under hood. Then two more through passenger wheel well with tire off. Last plug had to be changed from underneath the van with several extensions. Very nasty job, for any mechanic. But they at least used platinum plugs which lasted quite well.
 
Yeah , Journey is far from the worst car to work on for repairs.
 

Welcome to the forum. It certainly sounds like a strong possibility. If you search on the internet there are some people that made up a bypass harness and drove with out TIPM for a week to proof it was the culprit.   Need to use correct gauge wire and maybe add in line fuses to the bypass. Look for pics or utube clips on this type of approach.
 
A used wrecker part could be another option, or RockAuto. Or a friend with a Journey who can stay home a few days.

There was a dealer recall on the leaking power steering lines.  Several years ago, search this site.  Mine 2014 model was changed in 2018 by the dealer no charge. Check if yours had the recall done yet.

There was a dealer recall on the leaking power steering lines.  Several years ago, search this site.  Mine 2014 model was changed in 2018 by the dealer no charge. Check if yours had the recall done yet.

No worries. I'm a general mechanic - no great knowledge on particular models, always open to learning more.
 
To be a bit more clear, while it's referred to as a brake light switch, it seems to function more as a pedal position sensor on this. (Has an arm that sweeps as the pedal is depressed.) No physical adjustment as far as I can tell - keyed to mount one way, no adjustable plate on the sensor. I would think the BCM just calibrates the highest position it's seen and calls that 'off.' I may try the dealership and see if they can do a 'relearn' on it but it's weird that it would work ~95% of the time with 2 different sensors, one being stock.
 
Now that I'm thinking of it, I was also wondering there should be a return spring at the pedal assembly. No photos I've found show one, but it seems like there should be one.
 
Thanks for the wiring idea. Reasonably sure it's not at the hatch, since I can pull the pedal up and shut them off every time, sitting still, car off. But, maybe somewhere just up from the pedal..
 
On the wheel speed sensors.. Yes, that's very common, but I'm not getting error codes for any. I don't have the one number handy, but the codes were for brake pedal position sensor and P1C4E: 'Fault In ABS/ESP Module'. Could easily be 2 separate issues too though.
 
Will definitely post when I get it resolved. Thanks again.

might not be the proper way but a lot faster and easier also would be a great time to replace the upper toe links as well with the strut out of your way
 

Try starting car in neutral. Is it the four or six cylinder.  There is a fuse in passenger front kick panel for the push button start, have you checked it, mini 10 amp I think.

Here is my experience.  I've owned a few of the 3.6 engines and every one has needed at least one oil cooler assembly replacement, and at least one idler pulley replacement.  Neither is a terrible job if you are mechanically inclined have access to the parts.
 
I've also had an issue with multiple rocker arms failing on one of the engines.  If you catch the problem early enough it will not damage the camshafts too seriously and you can replace just the rocker arms.  Replacing the rocker arms is a bit more involved, but it can be done without removing the cam shafts if you research the method.
 
I haven't had any major issues with the electronics, but they are extremely sensitive to voltage and you will need a strong battery.  You will experience odd issues with clock and HVAC resetting itself, and possibly other dashboard lights if the battery gets weak.  The battery is inside the driver's side wheel well, so it's not the easiest to change.
 
I purchased my current Journey used with about ~140,000 miles on it.  The all-wheel-drive viscous coupler was bad when I purchase it.  There would be random clunks from the rear of the car, especially when making a tight turn, and it was wearing out the rear tires quickly.  A new viscous coupler can cost $1500-$2000 USD for the part alone.  I found a replacement in a junk yard for $50 and it works fine and solved all my issues.
 

Blue tooth module failure is most common issue for parasitic load. Something staying on and killing battery rapidly.
Fuse is in passenger kick panel I believe, try removing for a few days. . Need a meter to test amperage draw 5 mins after car is shut off. Should be only around 70-80 milli amps from radio memory,digital clock. Check all charging outlets for nothing being left plugged in. Glove box light not staying on etc.
 

It’s described as a silicon type fluid.  Talk to transmission guys. I believe units aren’t fixable if seals go.
People buy a whole rear diff from auto wreckers and remove unit.  Cheapest option.

Need to bleed out the air with the bleeder screw on the plastic thermostat housing. Pumps don’t often fail, if they do the seal will spit fluid and make it obvious.
 
Check all clamps etc air might be getting in some where.