aviator79 Posted August 19, 2022 Report Share Posted August 19, 2022 (edited) Can't find how to section so adding thread here. Replacing easy enough but figured make a how to. If you get thunk from rear when turning the Viscous Coupler (VC) could have failed. Part number 68058066AB. It is not cheap @ nearly $1400 new. Made by Borg Warner and only used on 2011-2019 dodge journey. To stop the thunk and prevent damage to rear diff as well as diagnose you can unplug the wire harness from viscous coupler. This will stop power going to it. And while mine dis thunk a few more times after unplugging, after that it stopped and was clearly fwd only. No more thunk good until fixed. Did get dash light as expected. Basically (how I think) works (and saw video showing where they took apart will try to find) by having some 50 discs submerged in metallic fluid that becomes thicker as power added. So removing power allows it to the out and slip 100%. Threads that mention PN: I picked up a used one with 75k for $350. To find used can look on car-parts.com for carrier. This would be whole rear diff and viscous coupler. They don't sell seperately which sort of sucks given shipping just VC be cheap enough but not with the rear diff so have to be close. I had to drive 2.5hr to RI to get mine. And wire $ before they would even pull it...pita. But $400 still ⅓ what would cost new. Four - 16mm bolts to remove VC from rear diff. Hopefully dont see grey gunk using out as that would indicate its bad. Rear diff with VC removed: VC: So get under car. Unplug VC if haven't already, remove propeller shaft/drive shaft (DS), then remove the four 16mm bolts and remove VC. Clearly needs to be pulled forward so thinking DS will be in way but maybe wont. Then install new one....let's see how that goes. To be continued.... Edited August 19, 2022 by aviator79 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John/Horace Posted August 22, 2022 Report Share Posted August 22, 2022 PXL_20210528_203254772.LS~2.mp4 Used coupling shouldn’t free wheel like a bearing; fluid always creates some resistance when spun, like in video. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aviator79 Posted September 8, 2022 Author Report Share Posted September 8, 2022 (edited) On 8/22/2022 at 11:28 AM, John/Horace said: PXL_20210528_203254772.LS~2.mp4 Used coupling shouldn’t free wheel like a bearing; fluid always creates some resistance when spun, like in video. Above I posted: "So removing power allows it to the out and slip 100%" That was clearly incorrect but by unplug made it basically Fwd only and stopped clunk. So my new used one does not have any resistance (other than bearings) when unbolted from rear diff but I'm pretty sure that does NOT indicates it is bad. In fact I installed and its been working fine. Now if hooked to rear diff and then sure, should not spin freely. So I can see video how shows good one is stiff but maybe that is because the magnet has not fully released?...idk. I have not disassemble one so im not sure if dry or filled with fluid but here is video showing one that was disassembled and shows that it does have a magnet: https://m.facebook.com/Plaiziers-Auto-Service-Ltd-413750198671594/videos/dodge-journey-rear-diff-viscous-coupler-whats-inside/1647582901954978/ When I removed bad one a bunch of fluid did dump but was in outer casing. Where came from idk. I checked and rear diff full. To remove, remove three bolts that go through rubber damper into VC (15mm). There are metal inserts/spacers that protrude into flange on VC and need to pop out. Doing this on jack stand would allow you spin driveshaft and make easier to access bolts but I was able to do on ramps. However, if drive shaft had not be aligned where one bolt was at bottom would have been very hard to access top bolt. Anyways still required adaptors and extensions using impact as exhaust and DS in the way. Once driveshaft loose from VC support with strap. Remove plug top rear diff. With DS out of way easier to access VC bolts. So now remove four 16mm holding VC to rear diff. Pull VC forward (have pan and rags read as mine dumped about 10oz fluid) and remove VC. My seal seal in diff looked ok but idk where that fluid came from. If replacing seal id say remove rear diff. I may do that (or swap diff with new seals) later as rear axle seals also looking old... Bolt new VC on, plug in and bolt drive shaft to VC. This is where being able to spin help so can check torque...I will recheck later. I also used threadlock on bolts holding VC to diff. The DS bolts have threadlock on them. Not sure if any of these bolts one time use but doubt it. Seal PNs: Rear diff to VC 68268679AA Axle to rear diff 05134787AB (2x) Edited September 8, 2022 by aviator79 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John/Horace Posted September 9, 2022 Report Share Posted September 9, 2022 You got it back running, that’s great. Lots of good info for the site from your follow up. Not a lot of people have posted work about the rear diff and coupler. Electro magnet Facebook clip explains a lot. The plug on the rear diff looks like it is the 12 volt supply that engages the vc coupler when called on. I’m pretty sure the bolts can be reused on diff; it’s head gasket and main bearing bolts that are usually one time use design. The side output seals on the rear diff can be changed in place with c/v shafts pulled. Awkward but doable. In salt belt areas the seals seem to rot out and start leaking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frustrated Banging Posted May 9, 2023 Report Share Posted May 9, 2023 Thank You !! your work, has made mine much easier... if this is my issue, would you like something for you time in posting ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnnymach Posted August 10, 2023 Report Share Posted August 10, 2023 Aviator79, how did you get the VC off of the DS, there is no play to pull back on the DS. I have been trying for a while now. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John/Horace Posted August 13, 2023 Report Share Posted August 13, 2023 (edited) They are listing collapsed length as 86”, so it must have a sliding section or the rubber flex disc can be slid out. Or droop when hanger bearing bracket removed allows enough movement on flange ends. Mitchel mechanic site will give torque specs and other info with a paid log in. USA STANDARD GEAR ZDS101745 Rear Drive Shaft Info Rear; AWD; Collapsed Length of 86 in. measured from flange to flange, Including rubber flex disc Edited August 13, 2023 by John/Horace Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kriegen Posted October 4, 2023 Report Share Posted October 4, 2023 Does anyone know what fluid goes in the viscous coupler? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John/Horace Posted October 5, 2023 Report Share Posted October 5, 2023 It’s described as a silicon type fluid. Talk to transmission guys. I believe units aren’t fixable if seals go. People buy a whole rear diff from auto wreckers and remove unit. Cheapest option. emiroto 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
emiroto Posted October 6, 2023 Report Share Posted October 6, 2023 hello, viscous coupler How many liters of silicone oil should be put? and ( 50000 - 75000 - 100000 ) what should be the cst? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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