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bfurth last won the day on May 21 2018

bfurth had the most liked content!

About bfurth

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    Journey Member

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    U.S. Northeast
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  1. CEL....no code reader

    Which is utterly stupid, considering we have a computer display right in front of us. I second the "go to any auto DIY shop, or buy a code reader on Amazon" sentiment.
  2. New brakes make grinding noise

    I've used Wagner ThermoQuiet pads on multiple other vehicles and never had an issue with this kind of noise right out of the box. Sure, I get that after sitting for a day or two with rain, but who doesn't? If you're going to replace the pads with a different brand, re-do the entire job (aside from the rotors). That includes cleaning and re-lubricating the slide pins.
  3. Driver seat belt lower anchor torque

    I found it. FYI - it's 43 ft.lbs.
  4. Driver seat belt lower anchor torque

    For some reason, I don't think using an impact wrench is the right tool for the job...
  5. I need to replace the driver side seat track cover, and removal/installation requires disconnecting the anchor for the driver's seat belt. Does anyone know what the torque specification is for that bolt? Last thing I want is to replace it and get involved in a collision that kills me because I over/under tightened a bolt. My wife would be quite upset, regardless of the life insurance payout
  6. Given that it happened when changing gears, I'd say it's probably the transmission. If the fluid that is leaking is pink/red, that's more proof. You should still be covered under the powertrain warranty - have it towed to a dealer (which may even be covered under that warranty - but don't quote me on that) and let them fix it. Don't try to drive it until it's fixed (sometimes, you just have to state the obvious).
  7. Clear Oily Fluid?

    It could also be a leak in the rear AC evaporator coil (just above the right wheel well), or it could be rear shocks. Between the components jkeaton mentioned and these, there really aren't any other fluids back there.
  8. Head Gasket Repair.

    My 2015 runs at (typically) 195 +/- a few degrees for coolant (which is expected, considering the thermostat is a 195 degree thermostat), engine oil is reported at 205 +/- depending on ambient weather (tops at around 210 in the summer in Baltimore) running Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 5W-20, and the transmission runs at whatever it runs (the bar is always in the middle, so I don't pay much attention to it beyond that). All of this is with no towing, and as many as 5 passengers (one adult, 4 kids in car seats). If you're in very hilly/mountainous roads, the oil is going to run a little hotter than mine. Keep an eye on oil consumption/coolant-oil mixing (you should know what that looks like now) and for temperature spikes. Anything that isn't a smooth transition could indicate a problem.
  9. New from Paradise

    Don't take the Journey off-roading. That should fix some of your problems.
  10. RoofTop Tent?

    And that weight limit is why I'll never buy a roof top tent. I'd rather get a cargo pod (already have it) and cross bars (need to buy them for the Journey) and then just put the seats in the back down. It's big enough to fit a twin mattress with both rows folded down. If I'm sleeping in the car, then it's without kids, and this storage method might be enough. I prefer close quarters for sleeping arrangements with my wife. Otherwise, I'll set up the "portable apartment." This is what happens when you have 4 kids and occasionally go camping. 9x13 8 person tent with a 6 1/2 foot center height. And more stakes than I ever feel like driving into the ground...
  11. Best Tire Deal I Could Find

    The tire diameter on the Journey is approximately 36.75" (225mm * 2 + 19") - give or take a few hundredths of an inch. If you have a brand new tire, and one that is worn to 50% of tread depth, the difference in diameter would be roughly .25" (4/32" *2 for total difference). That equates to a total tread length of 115.45" for a new tire, and 114.56" for the 50% worn, for a difference of just under 1". What does that mean in real terms? The wheels will spin at different speeds. The new tire will take 548.8 rotations per mile, while the worn tire will take 553. For a new versus 50% worn tire, it looks like 4 extra rotations per mile for one tire versus the other. AWD must be incredibly sensitive. For those who would like to see the math: 225 55/r19 tire = 225mm sidewall height or 8.85827" diameter of tire = 8.85827" *2 + 19" = 36.71654" assuming new tire with full 10/32" tread diameter from top of tread to top of tread = 36.71654", total tread length = 115.3483" (36.71654 * 3.14159) 50% worn tire is 6/32" (leaving 2/32" as the discard tread depth, leaving 8/32" of usable tread). tire diameter is 36.46654" total tread length at 50% wear is 114.56" Edited to check my own math.
  12. U49 Recall/PCM update

    I haven't had it done yet. I'm waiting for an insurance claim against another driver who was towing an open rail trailer with a pile of gravel all over it that hit a bump in the road and sprayed rocks all over the front of my DJ From the description of the problem (electronic controlled throttle, cruise control, and transmission, PCM calls for torque and simultaneously has an electrical short causing a stuck and non-responsive throttle), it should be little more than a programming change in a specific procedure (if loss of signal, cancel automatic throttle control). I'm not an engineer, but I do have a college course background in computer programming. Given that it is only a software update, this is a highly likely scenario for the fix.
  13. P2305 and 2311 codes.

    Use copper on the 2.4, not iridium. The Chevy EcoTec engine used iridium plugs. The only thing that EcoTec and the Chrysler World Gas Engine (the full name of the 2.4L in the DJ and many other Mopar vehicles) have in common is the displacement and the grade of fuel they use. I second the suggestion to disconnect the battery for 30 minutes while having the 1/2 and 3/4 coil packs swapped (you already replaced all four plugs - albeit with iridium). If the problem follows the coil pack, then you have your answer. If the problem stays where it is, I would think it's a wiring problem. If you get 4 new problems - rip out the iridium and replace them with copper, then test everything again.
  14. Chrysler made some major changes on the brakes from the early Journey and 5th generation Grand Caravan/Town and Country to the current "heavy duty" (read: mechanically adequate) brake system. Enjoy the brakes that actually work correctly for your vehicle dimensions. All I can find about brake discard specifications is for the rotors. Brake Rotor Rotor Thickness Minimum Rotor Thickness Rotor Runout * Front 27.87-28.13 mm 26.4 mm 0.050 mm 1.097-1.107 in. 1.040 in 0.002 in. Rear 11.75-12.25 mm 10.4 mm 0.050 mm 0.463-0.482 in. 0.409 in. 0.002 in.
  15. I have a 2015 with 22k miles (35k km) which has had nothing done with it other than oil and filter changes (besides a few collision repairs - none of the events happened while I was even moving!) Fuel economy is starting to fall off from original, but I'm replacing the spark plugs this summer which should clear that up. I've spent under $150 on maintenance in the 3 years I've owned it. I don't know what your reliability will be using LNG, but otherwise I've been very happy with mine.