OhareFred

Ok I am completely ignorant on this so now am curious. I assume the ABS valve should only be active while vehicle is in operation and wheels turning ? Meaning the draw is due to a circuit staying closed ?

Looks beautiful out!  As long as I’m not driving in it anyway ?
 
Been cold and snow every few days the past week in the Windy City. I’m ready for summer!???

Looks beautiful out!  As long as I’m not driving in it anyway ?
 
Been cold and snow every few days the past week in the Windy City. I’m ready for summer!???

Looks beautiful out!  As long as I’m not driving in it anyway ?
 
Been cold and snow every few days the past week in the Windy City. I’m ready for summer!???

Looks beautiful out!  As long as I’m not driving in it anyway ?
 
Been cold and snow every few days the past week in the Windy City. I’m ready for summer!???

4-5 year old topic....not sure you will get a reply ?

I guess I should explain better.
All chargers/boosters that you plug into a wall outlet uses the AC 120v-240v depending where your live (which country), here in North America we use 120 vac. We run this AC through a step down transformer to about 15 VAC. Now when you step down the voltage you increase the available current by the same ratio. So if you have an AC outlet with 120vac and a 15 amp breaker and you step down the voltage by 10x the available current will be 150 amps AC. Now a battery can act just like a diode which only allows current to flow in 1 direction, mind it's not a very good diode. To get DC voltage and current we have to run that AC voltage & amperage through diodes to get DC voltage and current. Problem is that makers of chargers & boosters usually go cheap on the electronics. To keep costs down they will either use a half-wave rectifier or a full-wave rectifier setup but, not a full-wave bridge rectifier, which is closer to real DC power. A Full-wave bridge rectifier with a smoothing capacitor will give DC power that is very close to true DC power that computers like. But there are problems with these setups. To begin the transformer outputs are usually 16 VAC because each diode will drop about 1.5 volts each, so going through 1 diode (half-wave rectification) the output voltage will drop to 14.5 VAC, going through 2 (full-wave rectification) brings it down to 13 volts  pulsed DC. But going through a full-wave bridge rectification still gives you 13 volts DC with ripples, add the smoothing capacitor and you will bring the voltage up to 13.5-14.0 DC. But each step up in the process costs money. Usually when you switch a charger/booster to boost it usually bypasses the rectifiers and gives the full stepped down AC for starting. Remember batteries can act like a poor diode and that's what the manufacturers are hoping will work. A 200 amp bridge rectifier costs between $75-$150 dollars, ouch. A 10 amp bridge rectifier costs between $1.23-$3.04. A 25 amp bridge rectifier costs between $1.15- $19.94. A 50 amp bridge rectifier costs between $3.68-$67.90. Now this is just for the full-wave bridge rectifier, that doesn't include the transformer or the rest of the parts. Also electronic equipment is usually marked up 1,200%. 
 
Half-Wave rectifier - notice that the output is not even half DC.

 
Full-Wave rectifier - RL is any load, but still output is still not DC and regulators will see the average of the voltage out.

 
Full-Wave Bridge rectifier - output is close to being DC but with some major AC ripple.

 
Negative Half-cycle

 
Positive Half-cycle

 
Full-wave Rectifier with Smoothing Capacitor - about as close to real DC your going to get.

 
All computer electronics used in automotive are either 5vdc or 3.3vdc. The proper way to lower the 12.5-15vdc that the car uses is to reduce the voltage down from the 12.5 - 15vdc to 6-7v then to 5vdc then to 3.3vdc. This is done to prevent overheating the regulators. Now I can and do use regulators that check the incoming power to make sure that it is at the proper level say 12vdc. But since most battery chargers are half-wave, the voltage regulator will not see 12vdc it will see about 7vdc from the charger/booster because 7vdc is about the equivalent of 12vac. So the regulator will not turn on, if it does not turn on the car will not start. The computer gets a no-good power indication and will not let the car start. This is done to prevent wonky behavior and relay chatter or so the design engineer thought. The thing is that 12vdc relays usually will pickup at 9vdc so there is no reason to have a regulator that cuts out at below 12vdc. Now batteries at -0F or -18C only have half the amperage than they do at room temperature. At this temperature their voltage usually goes down to =<11.5vdc and this is not enough for the voltage regulator to turn. I should also mention that there is usually more than one computer and more than 1 regulator which is why you will hear a click of a relay but no engine cranking.
 
So how to fix this problem; 1. FCA/Chrysler/Dodge should do a recall and replace the offending computer either the BCM or EMC and they can replace the regulator on the computer board with a proper one that's not just meant for California. 2. Is to use a battery maintainer or a small trickle charger to keep the battery voltage up above 12 volts. On my sisters Journey I used  12 vdc power supply (actually 15vdc) meant for powering up all kinds of devices. The other night the temperature went down to -38C with a wind-chill of -50C and her Journey started with no problems in the morning, a true first for that vehicle. 
 
External Links:
https://www.electronics-tutorials.ws/diode/diode_5.html
https://www.electronics-tutorials.ws/diode/diode_6.html
 
I hope this all helps.
Ray

I called the dealer parts dept.  he looked it up and there might be replaceable bulbs, a #37.  I’m goin to hit a auto parts store and grab a couple and look into it Saturday.
 
Already did the 100k maintenance last fall, so even if I pay $100 to have them replace the entire thing, it’s cheaper than just the part.  I will update Saturday.
 
And thank you for the reply’s!  I was getting worried...?

So how can we assist you? You only stated of having it towed, has anything been diagnosed like the state of the car battery and charging system? Some specifics like how long is recently purchased and miles on the DJ would be helpful for further assistance from fellow Journey owners here.

exactly three teeth, your diagnosis was right. A mechanic which was repairing was betting exactly about the same. Thank you for your hints.
 
Till the next one...
 
Warm greetings!

Moved to the correct section. What kind of problem?

problem with wiring harness back-up camera on Dodge Journey R/T 2011
 

well that would help but if they have a real problem that wont work in the long run,but would help mask the problem, a good battery can go a long time with no starting problems....

hate to tell you but some journey owners have problems with their journey battery going dead, so many different reasons it is hard to tell you what to do ,first make sure your fob is more than 30 feet from the journey when not in use,have someone pull the bluetooth fuse in the fuse box located under the glove box,also have the alt checked to make sure it is putting out the correct voltage also see if the dealership will change the battery out even new ones can go bad or get weak,also if all this is done and still problem have a garage check for a low drain on the system while shut off, so many other things as well, one poster had same problem and he said it ended up being the brake light sensor going bad cruise and read thur the forum listed as Electrical, Battery & Charging  good luck

look at the paperwork you rec on the warranty and at the end of all the listed coverage it should give you a phone # and the info you need to cancel it, and as well as stated above i hope you bought a mopar warranty and not a third party warranty as they have a lot of loopholes and make getting work done a lot harder from what i have read...good luck

They sold it with a warranty, I’d make sure they honor it, or give you some $$ off your purchase price. 
 
What warranty did you purchase?  I hope it’s a FCA warranty, not a 3rd party.....

hello with the scanner I got the code p0073 ambient air temperature sensor circuit high input, i remplace the sensor and the temperature changed to normal, and i only drives a few mile,s and the engine light went off I hope someone will help too

As stated, get the code read first before throwing parts at it. 

Get the code read instead of guessing what it might be. 

Check out   Crutchfield.com.  Installed a Kenwood DMX9706S in my 09. System isn’t what I would call plug and play, requires some prep (connecting wires to each other, programming the Maestro unit,etc) but I did all that on my work bench.  When I got in the car all I had to do was remove the old unit, cut a bracket, connect the wire looms together, and install the new unit.  In the car took about 45 mins.  Ran into 1 issue, called Crutchfield, they talked me through it.  Never hung up, never said call back.  I didn’t want the UConnect(it sucked, wouldn’t work with my phone, no help from UConnect) but kept steering wheel controls, hands free (new unit has its own system).  Love my Kenwood system.

My daughter has a 2010 Dodge Journey SXT and I live in Calgary, Alberta, Canada. We get some really cold nights in January and I have been getting up early before I go to work because my daughter phones me every second morning asking me to come over to her place to boost her vehicle. So I traded her vehicles and I have been checking for a parasitic drain on her battery for the last 2 weeks without any luck until this morning at 5:30 AM to help my wife get ready for work. I went to the front door to remote start my wife's car and noticed the brake lights were activated on the 2010 Dodge Journey SXT so I went outside and yes the battery was dead again. I checked a few websites and this is a known problem with Journeys and the brake switch staying on after turning it off. I would never have noticed it if I would not have gotten up at 5:30 AM with my wife. Thank you honey! Now replacing my brake light switch. I will let you know if that solves it but I am 99.9% sure that is the issue.
 

My 2.4 liter 2013 with 80K got the P2173 HIGH AIRFLOW/VACUUM LEAK DETECTED (SLOW ACCUMULATION)
I ran a smoke test and no leaks from the intake or any hose, I replaced the Throttle body and the code return, I replaced the Mass sensor and the code return, I replaced the Brake booster and calibrated the Throttle body and the code return after 3 weeks, finally I decide to change the intake manifold gasket 2 months ago, so far it looks that is fixed for good, I found the old gasket was leaking between two cylinders thus the reason the smoke test did not work, to any one with this code I suggest to replace the gasket first, is only $6.00. The P2173 will put he car in limp mode and make it undriveable 

Yeah fob communicates with wireless module to close the loop for starting. I think there is an antennae as well.
 
Could ask for a diagnosis of problem first. They should should be able to pin point problem first without throwing a lot of parts at it. Don’t just sign a blank work order and say fix it. Ask for communication and details up front.
 
You have tried flipping battery in fob the opposite way to make sure there is proper polarity. 

It seems odd that you mention it still unlocks and locks your doors but will not start it. I know there's a lot backend stuff going on in that little thing, but needing to buy a new one is frustrating. 
Not sure if you have tried this one, but my mechanic buddy suggested this one. Says it helps on Chrysler cars. 
While in the car with the doors shut, hit unlock, then lock, then unlock and lock again, and see if it starts. There was a lot more conversation as to why, but it supposedly re-established the connection to the FOB.
Hopefully it turns out to be something simple (and cheap), but let us know. 
Good luck...

If  not starting from battery going dead remove fuse for blue tooth module, search site it’s a know issue.
 
If it’s just randomly stalling replace CPS crank position sensor, fairly cheap wear item.
 
If not starting but turning over and it’s fuel pump, pressure gauge etc will show this...TIPM module is possible.
Relay built into wire harness can be by passed or new harness section installed. Lots on data around.
 
https://circuitboardmedics.com/tipm-module-repairs/