OhareFred

Try disconnecting the battery for 30 mins or longer.  Sometimes this will reset the radio system.
 
if you are handy you can pull the radio screen and check the connections....
 
$1200for the radio is about right.  Remember a lot more goes through that screen then just the radio.

I would start by checking the antenna connection at the back of the radio, then the Sat antenna connection.  Could be the base unit/antenna on the roof is bad. The Nav uses  the same antenna as Sat radio. If the Sat radio works you have other Nav issues, but with the AM/FM not working I would say antenna connection issue....

I can think of half a dozen things it could be.  The radio itself, the antenna, the antenna wire, the satellite antenna, the radio is not equipped with Nav, operator error....
 
If we are going to help you you need to provide ALOT more info:
 
screen size, actual installed radio, satellite or no,  what do you mean by “guy that sold me it said that it didn't have the navigation originally.”

let us know

I'd start with checking for broken wires inside the rubber "boot" between the drivers door and the body of the car. Broken wires are easy to see and repair as they are color coded wires to "patch" back together.

I can think of half a dozen things it could be.  The radio itself, the antenna, the antenna wire, the satellite antenna, the radio is not equipped with Nav, operator error....
 
If we are going to help you you need to provide ALOT more info:
 
screen size, actual installed radio, satellite or no,  what do you mean by “guy that sold me it said that it didn't have the navigation originally.”

let us know

I would start by checking the antenna connection at the back of the radio, then the Sat antenna connection.  Could be the base unit/antenna on the roof is bad. The Nav uses  the same antenna as Sat radio. If the Sat radio works you have other Nav issues, but with the AM/FM not working I would say antenna connection issue....

Hi Guys I got solution alternator was bad changed it. Now car runs gud. Thanks to all of you help me alot. 

If his fuel numbers are crappy, check the rear parking brakes for dragging.
 
I find they need to be freed up as they gradually start to sieze. Return spring maybe undersized, wife who mainly drives it doesn’t use parking brake much which also has effect.
 
Lots of cycling and penetrating spray. I couldn’t even turn rotor by hand before I freed it up, accelerated padwear like you know.
Easy fix for another journey quirk in the salt belt.

I will go to the mechanic tomorrow and find the reading on that Mechanic also told me about alternator issues. It is alternator not more serious then that. I will posted. Thanks 

What were the numbers on the battery and alternator tests?  A proper newer testing device will give you a printout with the numbers.  I agree, you will kill the battery if you are trying to drive it around with a bad alternator.  Put the battery on a slow,smart charger until it reads full, then go get the alternator tested again.  Tell use what the results are.  Good luck!!

Must be something new I can leave my hatch open for days with no dinging.....

You don’t have to remove the battery to test it.  You can test from the jump start points.  On my tester there is an option for testing in the car...

Hey everyone,
 
I obtained the service manual for the dodge journey and now have access to the following torque specs so feel free to post in here if you need them: 
 
-Body 
-Brakes front + back
-Cooling system
-Engine system
-Exhaust system
-Fluids chart
-Front axle shaft
-Front engine mounts
-Front suspension system
-Rear axle shaft
-Rear suspension system
-Restraints system
-Steering column
-Steering system
 
 

dont mean to argue but this manufacture  is not oem by dodge or mopar, but give them a call they say they are available 24/7 for help, they should have all the correct questions you need answered,,,good luck
 

thought i was pushing it with my wifes 3 wheel scooter and its only about 1/3 the weight you are trying to carry you are way over the  Tongue weight of the class 3 hitch for the journey we- also use a carrier that extends about that far behind the bumper and has a fold down ramp to load the scooter,,, and i have some problems with the rear getting out of alignment and is probally due to us pushing the limit with her scooter, i dont believe it will be worth it to make it possible to haul such a load...Griffin Mobility  use to makes a tow behind unit that would carry the chair but it runs around $ 2700 it looks like a small 2 wheel trailer that the chair loads onto....sounds like they really need a bigger vehicle to carry the weight that you are talking about...good luck
 

Just finished a front suspension overhaul on my wife's 2016 Dodge Journey R/T AWD (3-row).  It was hell.  We changed both front struts, both ball joints, both sway bar links, both body bushings, and the driver side wheel bearing (passenger side went bad last year, early failure, so I decided to just go for it "while we were in there").  My wife helped some on the wrenching and passed me tools so my fat ass didn't have to do the up-down shuffle a million times.  Here's what we learned . . . 
 
(BTW - this is not the exact order of operations, that can be pretty fluid depending on what your total replacement scope includes).
 
Ball Joints (This is First for a Reason)
Mopar knuckle design sucks hairy taint.  Took combined adapters from 3 tool sets (two rented, one bought) to get them out and back into the knuckle.  Getting them out took receiving cups from the two Powerbuilt kits carried by Advance Auto (one big, 23 pieces, and one small, 10-14 pieces I think, don't remember.  The small kit is model 04057# (the # is either a 9 or an 8, can't tell from the one blurry photo it's in on my phone).  The removal also required one of the forcing blanks from the big kit (basically a circular metal slug that gives the C-clamp extra push thru the knuckle bore to finish the extraction.  Speaking of the C-clamp, the big beefy one that MOST auto parts stores carry in their rental kits (it's identical between the big and small Powerbuilt kits) will NOT finish the removal.  For that I needed a regular 8" C-clamp (pictured with the green quick release button).  The forcing knuckle on the Powerbuilt kit C-clamp is TOO BIG to fit into the recess of the steering knuckle on the car with the forcing blank, and the screw-drive knuckle can't be made to align to push it out with the C-clamp reversed (tried, and failed, YMMV). 
 
However, I used the C-clamp from the kit, along with a stack of receiving adapters, to get the ball joint most of the way out, and then switched to my 8" C-clamp (continuing to use the receiving adapters) to finish the removal.  I will say that removing the snap-ring from the ball joint (prior to extraction) was a sinch.  Use a thin but sturdy punch and a hammer (of whatever kind, doesn't need to be huge), and soak the snap-ring and groove in Kroil or PB Blaster about 5 minutes before you go at it.  Took me all of 2 minutes per side, including sitting my ass down and gathering the tools.  You'll need to remove the brake rotor and dust shield to get at the clip thru the little slot in the knuckle below the hub, but you MIGHT be able to grip it with locking pliers and just yank it off from the inboard side of the knuckle - I have my doubts, but it could be possible.  To remove the taper spindle of the ball joint from the end of the lower control arm, you can use heat and a hammer (heat and hit the control arm end itself to shock the taper bore apart from the taper spindle), or use a puller.  I used a small puller that's really meant for built-in ball joints and tie rod ends, but I used to to put tension on the taper spindle and then hammered the control arm end until it shocked the tapers apart with a loud bang.  Either way you do it, that's how you know it worked.  Make sure to remove the nut first (I almost forgot).  
 
Installation was a crap show.  For this, you have basically three options  Option one, use the C-clamp from the Powerbuilt kit, with installation cup adapters, to force the ball joint about 60% of the way in, and then hammer it the rest of the way.  5/10, would not recommend if I were you.  If you HAVE to resort to this method, use a SOFT HAMMER - rubber mallet or deadblow hammer, not a hard steel hammer.  Go slow, and use a little grease in the bore (just a little).  If you lift the car high enough, you can do this all on the car.  The reason you need to finish with a hammer is that the Powerbuilt kit C-clamps (which are identical to the kits used by Autozone and ORiellys) cannot fit into the knuckle with a receiving cup, and the ball joint sticks through the interior of the knuckle about 1cm when fully seated, which means you NEED the receiving cup to give it space to fit.  Option two would be to remove the knuckle entirely and put it in a jig, in a shop press (need at least 15" of clearance), and press the ball joint in that way.  You'll need the jig to hold the knuckle straight, and installation cups to press on the rim around the ball joint to seat it.  Option 3, buy the Mopar ball joint C-clamp kit for $500. 
 
Just kidding.  The REAL OPTION 3, which is what I did, was to find an aftermarket kit that emulates the Mopar kit, and use that.  The kit that I bought (okay, actually my wife bought it after I sent her out to find the right kit once both Powerbuilt rental kits had failed) has a wide, open ended forcing knuckle that is juuuuuust big enough to accept the butt end of the ball joint as it comes into the knuckle.  The only issue is the kit didn't come with the correct installation cup adapters (for the tapered end of the ball joint), so I used the ones from the Powerbuilt kits that I'd rented.  Ideally, you could buy this kit (pics included below), along with a set of adapter cups/tubes, and you'd be set.  The kit was about $130, and you can get adapter cup sets for cheap - sometimes as low as $30 or $40.  The aftermarket, Mopar-lite kit that I used for ball joint installation is #40920 by Specialty Products Corp, and my wife tracked it down at O'Reilly's Auto Parts.  Nobody else, that we can tell, carries it.  Oh, and finally, installing the snap ring once you're done is a breeze.  I was able to do it by hand, no tools or tapping required.  You can either just push it right into the groove from behind, or get one end in and work the rest into the groove along it's circumference.
 
 
Wheel Bearing
This was my second front wheel bearing/hub job on the Journey.  Both were a huge PITA.  The bearings on ours were super-seized and resisted all attempts by slide-hammer to extract.  I used both my own 5-lb slide hammer (which has successfully removed bearing/hub combos from other vehicles with no heat and only minor lubrication), and an 8-lb rented slide hammer.  Neither worked.  What ended up working was copious Kroil application, MAP/PRO heat (out of the yellow bottle), and a 5-lb sledge working from one back edge of the hub to the other, alternating sides and working it out.  Even to get it started took about 20 minutes of effort (some of that with the slide hammers, which as noted did not budge the thing at all), and getting it out took another 10.  I will say I was being reserved because this was towards the beginning of what promised to be a long job, but just go in expecting to fight.  I also used a punch and chisel at times to encourage separation - this is fine, and does not damage the mating surface of the knuckle.  I had the bright idea to see if I could get the bearing to spin in the knuckle first, before attempting to pull, but this did not work.  Maybe I could have hit it harder to try spinning it, but I don't know.  All I know is get yourself a 5-lb mini sledge if you go at this job, because if you're using a slide hammer and it's not working, with every strike you're also damaging the hub, so you won't wanna be driving on it until the new hub is installed.
 
Speaking of, make sure you clean the bore thoroughly before installing the new bearing/hub.  There is a small sealing shim ring that goes between the hub and the splined drive spindle, don't forget about that  It'll fall of or otherwise make itself known once you've gotten the old hub out.  I put the bearing into the (cleaned and lightly greased) knuckle bore as far as I could by hand, which was about 8 or so millimeters (make sure to keep the drive spindle aligned with the splined interior hole or it can bind, forcing you to pull back out and restart).  From there, I used the bolts to draw the mating surfaces of the hub and knuckle together, a little at a time, using all 4 bolts in a criss-cross pattern (think of lug nut tightening).  Unless you remove the knuckle entirely and put it on a press, this is the only viable solution.  Using bolts to draw surfaces together and pull a press-fit is a time-honored hack tradition, and guess what folks - it works.  Go slow, alternate bolts, pre-apply LocTite, and you'll be FINE.  If you insist on being a perfectionist, have 4 new bolts on hand and swap 'em out once the unit is pressed together.  Or you can be a man and roll with it.  The TIGHTENING torque of the bolts is WAY higher than the torques it took to get the surfaces mated as a unit, so I am not worried in the slightest about bolt stretch.  I know it's a real thing, but it doesn't apply here.
 
Body Bushings
The sway bar body bushings were easy, but still a PITA because of the tight spaces involved.  Luckily I had a set of offset box-end wrenches, and pass-thru sockets, that worked great for the passenger side.  Driver side was accessible with a flex-head ratchet all around, but other methods exist.  For the rear bolt on the passenger side bushing bracket, get ready to spend a good twenty minutes on the ground, going 12.5 degrees at a time on a bolt that will seem absurdly long by the time you're through.  The heat/debris shield for the steering gear kinda-sorta extends over the bushing bracket and limits your hand space.  My hands are medium sized, and I had almost no room to use my fingers once the bolt was loose enough to make it possible.  My wife attempted to go at it from under the car, the inboard side, but that didn't pan out.  I do think the right combo of attachments on a ratchet might have made that method possible, and I do have a full set of u-joint extensions, but I don't like them much and didn't bother getting them out.  If they work for you and are less of a pain than slowly inching a bolt out one eighth of a turn at a time, then congrats and I'm happy for you.
 
Sway Bar End Links
These suck.  They just suck.  Broke two star bit heads in the spindle ends trying to hold the ball-joints stationary while spinning the nuts off.  Ended up needing to use an 18mm open end on the joint-side flats while using a socket to spin the nut off the spindle end.  It's a simple process but it sucks because of the rust and the "forced-round" nuts that these components use (the hole in the nut is slightly oval and is forced into a circular shape by the spindle on the end of the ball-joint.  The new ones come the same way, so get ready for the same fun - in R-E-V-E-R-S-E!!!   We saved this for last, and my arms and hands were toast afterwards.
 
Struts
Easiest part of the job.  The strut-to-knuckle nuts are tight and rusty, but you've got all the space in the world to use a long-handle and get supreme leverage.  Make sure to mark the bolt heads (not the nuts) of the bolts so you know how they go back in for the best alignment.  You WILL NEED TO GET AN ALIGNMENT after doing this job, but if you can get it close on reassembly you can wait a couple days - its not super urgent.  We used a simple vertical line with dots to mark the top of the line, and extra markings for the bolt that goes on top (it matters).  Aside from that, just make sure to keep the speed sensor cables and brake hose out of the way when you're removing and installing, and you're golden.  You do have to remove BOTH plastic cowls, both front wiper arms, and a steel crossmember in the engine compartment to properly get at and torque the topside nuts holding the strut to the body, but that's easy - just take pictures and keep the plastic rivets organized so you know where they go back.  We did have a minor fight with the wiper arms, but we used a tie-rod puller (pictured) to get them off and it worked great.  That is the same puller I used on the ball joint taper spindle, mentioned in the first section.  It is a common tool and can be had for like $15-30 on Amazon or Ebay.  
 
Okay, my hands hurt too much to keep typing.  Forgive any typos, they're also shaky from yesterday's effort.  Hope this helps someone.  Next spring we'll be replacing both front lower control arms, so there may be more coming.
 

Digressing; dumb joke:
 
You could re-route the wiper fluid into the new KN Filter, put gasoline in the wiper fluid reservoir, and then when you're pulling redline onto the freeway just click the switch for a little MAD MAX style passing power.

Here is the correct link...
 
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KZ6PRTC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I am SSOOOO GRATEFUL I bought the lifetime warranty when I got my 09.  I would have touched it by now!
 
great write up for those of you brave enough to attempt this!

OUCH!
  Some big expenses to get this back up and running, that's the ECM(engine control module) and TIPM/fuse panel you've circled and both probably electrically burned out. No doubt that some electrical harnesses are damaged also. Good Luck on how you proceed, as this is more than a "shade tree mechanics" level work. Much less to figure out why this happened so it does not repeat itself. 

Moved to the correct section. Sounds like the oil pressure sensor is going out. 

Just giving everyone a follow up, ended up having the shop do the work.  All in all everything did have to come apart. Drive shaft , power control unit. Catalytic converter,  bunch of other things. It was hidden behind everything. For labor and sensor came out total of 630, though main issue was. A rodent of some sort. Ended up getting in there and chewed the wiring harness to the sensor. Which was as extra 60$ so came out to 680 with parts and labor. Which was still cheaper then dealer. Again thanks for everyone's help. Wish I could of knocked it out myself but definitely didnt have the time to do so.

Glad it was a simple fix (relatively anyway) and under warranty!

This thread is destined not to be updated by the guys posting to get help. Can we tag them so they are ignored in the future? 

I'm curious, is this a small shop mechanic that doesn't subscribe to programs like ALL DATA? Or do they not have that in your area? I would hate for my mechanic to ask me how to fix something in my car.