2late4u

i had the dealer that i purchased the journey from do the flash there was no charge and it was about 9 months after i bought it...

Let me know if there is anything else you need instructions on.

Congrats on the check and good luck with your next vehicle.

both of my journeys rear seats 2011 and my current 2014 rear seats were hard to move from the outside but they moved a lot easier if i sat in one and then tried to move it.also i hardly ever move them so i really don't have a problem with them...I also agree with jkeaton.

Man, I dont even compute mileage anymore. Fill it when it gets low, drive it till I need to put gas in it again. If I was so concerned about gas mileage I woulda bought a prius.

raise your tire pressure to about 36 psi cold and will help get a little better mpg as when they get hot it will raise to about 38-39 psi that is what i ran in my 2011 with 17 inch tires and got 70k out of them tires and still running the same in my 2014 19 inch tires and just turned 15 k and they still look great....

I totally feel your pain. Our 2013 Crew, purchased in May 2013 got hit in July of that year - ruined the front fascia. Then in early December 2014 another car backed into the passenger side rear fascia. Didn't even get a chance to fix that - two weeks later a young driver blew a red light and destroyed the front end - $11,000 in damage. It sucks having that new car magic stripped from you when the car is still so new.
Does the rear washer work? If so, then there is power to the washer pump (it reverses direction for the rear washer) and the problem then will be a cut or kinked washer fluid supply hose. If neither washer works then there may be a wiring issue. I see your state is Michigan. Could it be that the fluid is simply frozen? I've had plenty of frozen washer tanks in my shop last month. Everything here is frozen, including the bay down the street from my home! Most frozen washer tanks have ice at the bottom and the filler neck still has liquid in it.

had it for 6yrs couldn't be that bad!!!!!!!

No argument there, but you would get a lot more helop if you would ask for asistance instead of joining to make two complaining posts. I don't mind helping people who ask for help.

What your insurance company didn't tell you is that they'll cover the repair for as long as you keep them as your insurance company . . . . . so you are handcuffed to them until you change the vehicle. Make sure that you get a WRITTEN commitment that their sub-par repair is covered by them in perpetuity, whether or not you insure through them.
And I suspect that they aren't the least expensive game in town, so you've probably got incentive to change.

had it for 6yrs couldn't be that bad!!!!!!!

I guess I would like to have a "rough" idea what my car was getting:
Me currently
14,6 mpg - US Gallon
17.6 mpg - Imp. Gallon
16.1litres/100 kms - Can.
This is an overall average mileage for almost 5 years of very varied driving both in an urban setting and on the highway, it takes in to account very cold driving (where mileage is poor), idling or 'warming' up the car in winter, city and highway driving.
Best:
29.6 mpg - US Gallon
35.5 mpg - Imp gallon
8.0 litres/100 kms. Can
All this can be verified by going to the My Fuelly site in my signature. As you can see my mileage is all over the map, it really makes a difference summer vs, winter, regular vs,premium, city vs, highway. Just my thoughts.........
Terry

3.6L
3.6L




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Position new gaskets onto the catalytic converter flanges.



Position the cross-under pipe (1) into its position between the catalytic converters.



Install the front flange mounting nuts (4). Tighten nuts to 28 Nm (250 in.-lbs.).



Install the rear flange bolts (5). Tighten bolts to 30 N.m (22 ft. lbs.).



Install the cross-under support (2) bolts. Tighten nuts to 28 Nm (250 in.-lbs.).






Install the muffler/resonator pipe (2) onto the cross-under pipe (4). Do not tighten the pipe clamp.



Install the half shaft (Refer to Differential and Driveline/Half Shaft - Installation)(Refer To List 1).






Install the front pipe grommet (4).



Check for clearance of the exhaust to body.



Tighten the muffler/resonator pipe clamp (3) to 55 N·m (40 ft. lbs.).

He's in Canada - we get ripped off on extended warranties and there is no lifetime available (which is why I suggested the 7/160 - it is the longest one they offer).

just a thought but depends on how you think.. before you have adjuster file the claim take some rubbing compound and go to work on it and then wax and then decided if you want to file a claim remember replacing the bumper skin will not be cheap and then its a claim on your ins record and might make your rates to go up.. any damage you cant remove put a bumper sticker on top of.......take care

That's the only way to get them on the roof so he can tie them down on the roof racks for transport!

Why do you let cows walk on your car???

If your calipers look like they are almost hitting the wheels and the rotor looks as big as the inside of the wheel, you have the upgraded brakes.

It's all in how you drive and maintain your tires.

ahh a used car salesman!!!!!!!!!!!

ahh a used car salesman!!!!!!!!!!!

My 11 R/T doesn't. I'm glad actually. Too many badges are just too many badges in my view.
Peace.

E85 isn't a panacea anyway . . . sure, it costs less, but you also get to go a lot fewer miles per tank.
Mixing ethanol and gasoline has always been about pumping up the demand for corn.

I'm not about to get out the manual, but from what you've quoted it seems clear enough to me;
At 64K you check the fluid for level and color. At 120K you drain, flush, replace filters and refill.
Same story for coolant; check at 80K, flush and fill at 5 years or 104K miles.
Of course nothing prevents you from doing these maintenance procedures more often - a clean engine is a happy engine.

Hey all - I'm on vacation until Saturday the 21st - so if you need any DRL codes, don't think I'm ignoring you! See you all later!