John/Horace

People get stuck and get carried away, burn up the silicon/oil. Clutch plates get damaged and seals start leaking. Subaru forums say it’s usually 1,000,000 (cst) PolyDimethylSiloxane fluid in most vc diffs. Not much fluid 50-80 ml maybe, measure accurately what comes out if possible. Could be half black paste and not meaureable. Getting Mopar fluid would help odds of successful fix. Pic is of a Subaru vc . Fluid should last life of vehicle I think; if not abused. My 3 vc vehicles have never needed it changed. Although Jeep np249 transfer case was causing hopping at 200k miles. Needed it.

No not at all. Very simple awd system that will allow one wheel on each axle to get you a little farther in bad conditions than just front wheel drive(single wheel). Can’t even force on back wheels with over ride switch, so no off roading should ever be attempted. Ground clearance also not enough for off road driving. You can probably get stuck on wet grass with this vehicle if you have bad luck and minimal driving skills. It’s a system designed to allow you to keep control in minor snow ice or mud ; on existing normally maintained roads. Your AI algorithm has good platitude setting; need to tweak tec comprehension…badly. JohanBot.

ESL speak with no grammar or punctuation, or just bad AI coding. Can’t tell.

What are the Possible Causes of the DTC P2173 Dodge. Large Vacuum Leak Faulty Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor harness is open or shorted Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor circuit poor electrical connection Faulty Throttle Position (TP) Sensor ⚠ D Some map sensor failures have been documented on site, $30 part. Need to diagnose problem.

Good oil pressure, so driving a few days shouldn’t matter with intermittent noise IMO. It wouldn’t be changing a few rockers arms on the front cams. At $10 ish each mechanic will likely change them all. But if you also change front cam (s) then timing chain, hydraulic tensioner, all front covers etc all coming off. Can’t reset timing other wise. Chain tensioner shouldn’t be reused but replaced, $200 ish part etc. So lots of work. Just changing rockers isn’t a half assed repair. If there is minimal wear and you can leave cams in place you wallet shouldn’t bleed much and engine might last as long as you need. I agree with poster tsteve5 on this approach. The well know hemi tick on the V8 5.7 engine is similar problem. Wear issue maybe caused by MDS cylinder deactivation set up ( forced fuel economy tec) or oil flow to top end. No one really knows why, but changing rockers and cams often needed. Ram forum has thousands of posts talking about it. Only affects some vehicles; not always linked to lack of maintenance. Good luck with repair, bad time after Xmas for big expenses.

Bottom end issues I think has more of a knock to it, hollow sound. Great advice on cheap mechanics stethoscope. Had one for years. The serpentine belt can be removed and engine run for 20-30 seconds. Eliminates most noises but may generate a few engine codes. No water pump running so don’t push time factor. If necessary wait a while and do a second quicki test. Like OP is saying. Need to address right away to avoid cam damage if that’s the issue. Removing cams means chain and tensioner and front of engine all apart. Huge labor costs, engine swap usually cheaper. Make sure oil pressure on cluster is in proper range when noise is present on hot engine. How many miles on engine?

https://www.rockauto.com/en/partsearch/?partnum=5184296ah

The last post has to be some kind of AI robot crap. It completely ignores the mention of $2k + expensive rattling top end engine problem. There is no testament to good maint and reliability bla bla bla. I’m sure owner is not happy at all at only 100k mikes for this type of expense. To actually answer his question, which johanbrandon clearly didn’t. There are a few docuemented cases of this with the 3.6 engine, on this site, but it is not a commmon issue at all, especially at your low milage. I would try switching to a Mopar filter and new top grade oil immediately, see if sound changes. Maybe even high milage 5W30 oil considering your location. They don’t usually just start loud ticking. Top end wear slowly increases and sound level follows.

Airbag clips, always a little crazy. Kinda on topic IMO. https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&ved=2ahUKEwixqLf6u86DAxVuOTQIHZFSAKEQz40FegQICxAU&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.youtube.com%2Fwatch%3Fv%3DFhg4S2IYSzQ&usg=AOvVaw0hkK2n7JObbZbdnfDO1Tby&opi=89978449

Highly unlikely they will be plug and play. If part numbers were the same, you could chance it. But with airbags and other critical stuff tied in to wire harness, maybe not a good idea to play with that. In most countries the insurance companies would void your policy coverage so fast…your head would be spinning. In an accident situation.

The fuse box configuration determines which fuses are on keyed or continuous power. So the wires leaving a keyed power outlet fuse would have to be rerouted to a spare fuse slot that has continuous power set up. And vice versa. It’s doable but would need to be done properly with solder and heat shrink and proper gauge wire. It’s temping to just pig tail off the nearest existing wires. But you don’t want to overload circuits with unknown power loading. Usually not enough wire to just remove one connection from back of fuse and feed into another fuse. Automotive wire harness has very little built in slack imo.

Haven’t worked on the Chrysler 3.5 timing belt. But I have changed close to a dozen belts on various vehicles from Honda to Hyundai V6’s. Did a 2.7 Rondo V6 last year for my daughter. Belt, idlers, tensioner, CPS sensor and water pump. You only want to go in there once if possible. A lot of labor removing crank pulley and plastic covers. If it’s out one tooth generally a vehicle will be hard to start but it will run. Timing out around 6 degrees so awful idle and not really driveable. Two teeth and engine generally won’t start. In neither case is there any contact with valves or engine damage. It’s very easy for even an experienced mechanic to have timing out one tooth on any of the timing gears. There is a small flexible cam that mechanics can use to inspect valves through plug hole for damage. Time consuming job some guys won’t want to do. If car just died without a bang or lurch. Maybe the valves are still ok and it’s worth trying to get an inspection. The real proof is pulling all covers and seeing if timing marks line up. A lot of labor involved. Experience needed to assess if marks are properly aligned. I’m pretty sure your code is from timing being off from belt jumping. Belt may look ok from quick inspection, its the small teeth underneath that matter, there is probably one section of a few damaged rubber teeth or slots. Look at very bottom of plastic cover by the crank pulley for any small chunks of rubber.

How did you clear code, with a reader. Pull battery power for 5 mins, code may clear.

It allows in outside air. When car is turned off it will try to cycle to open position, vent interior moisture. When it’s open you can see outside light coming in threw dash filter. Removing filter helps seeing if it’s stuck closed. People often poke it open to temporarily fix problem. Changing it is an awkward job even with glove box door dropped down.

With 3/4” drive you can get a a few foot long pipe and add it to the breaker bar. Remove nut with hub cap off and wheel on the ground if possible. Safer and weight of car helps. Counter clock wise to loosen. Even heat from a torch helps with seized threads. Impact gun which vibrate when used is always best, but not essential. Its only torqued at 100 ft pounds; removing rust on exposed threads with wire brush will prevent damage on nut threads. People resuse the old nuts but technically they are suppose to be replaced on most vehicles after removal. Dealers do.

Link would be helpful. Rear arm oem is pricy. Cheers.

Thanks for follow up. Curious how many kms on the original viscous coupler now ? Had to change both side lip seals on our 2014 rear diff. They literally rotted out from road salt and started leaking. Time consuming crappy diy job. Never went low enough to cause any damage. At 244k kms or 151k miles now. Now that I have learned of vent issues, plan on getting to it and cleaning it out. There has been a handful of people on site that had similar oil leaks with coupler. Have owned multiple jeeps and trucks with awd, haven’t experienced this problem yet. But the Journey sees lots of mud and salt…and I’m never lucky.

These guys list two versions, check actual Mopar number on the sensor. Their Pics are usually accurate. I don’t work for these guys. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/dodge,2019,journey,3.6l+v6,3443655,heat+&+air+conditioning,heater+air+door+actuator,10721

I’m not a big tv person. Friends sometimes send me stuff. Yeah Merry Xmas and haaapppy new year.

The comments are the best part. They range from “needs 350 D cells not included ….to please crash test…immediately. https://jalopnik.com/russia-has-new-ev-thats-totally-going-to-destroy-tesla-1851117732w

Best lighting diagrams, might help a bit.

Can’t be done. Haven’t heard of any diy person being able to do it. If you call transmission shops I’m sure they will even say they don’t do it. On this site there are threads about swapping it out with rear diff left in place. People usually buy a whole rear diff from auto recycler and only use coupler. New coupler by itself more than double used diff.

Viscous coupling is not rebuildable. Rear end or differential is now toast. Running out of oil not like running out of gas. Side seals where c/v shaft ps go into rear diff are a common failure. Oil goes low and internals get wrecked. A used rear diff from auto wreckers is only cost effective option. Removing rear drive shaft temporarily should allow you to still use car until parts found. Continuing to drive car as is will probably destroy front transfer case as well.Adding thousands to get back awd ability. Wheel bearings are pretty good on Journeys. Only one of 4 has been changed on wife’s RT with over 150k miles.

Cool work going on. Glass matt on the air tank is a nice touch. I still think a ludicrously loud air horn is needed to match the sound system. Not many people have the compressed air to run one properly Might score some points at a competition. Cheers.

Mmm looks like the 3.6 also has decoupler clutch, all the units for sale list the feature. I used a dealer rebuild on our 3.6 so installed a complete unit a few years ago. It stopped charging but no whining noise. Coupler is used to save energy apparently. Cost is around $130 ish for just coupler, so whole unit is probably better option. Made in Canada…probably why it failed.?