John/Horace

Between the flanges looks like a standard flat flange exhaust gasket. https://www.rockauto.com/en/tools/exhaust+&+emission,pipe+flange,pipe+flange+gasket+/+seal,5836

There is several posts on site about doing that. Just use search function. Need to remove drive shaft and I think people unplug the electrical plug on the rear diff. It’s the signal that turns on the rear wheel drive. You can sell drive shaft, don’t throw away they are worth $500 ish new. No stub shaft to worry about on front ptu or rear diff. Both will stay sealed. Just keep oil in them.

They often upgrade part numbers, common thing, yeah Mopar is oem. Several cdn on line sites with 15-25% off, can also pick the ordered part at a dealer they specify. Better than paying full list if you just walk in. https://parts.motorcitychrysler.ca/p/90959564/05033307AE.html Or best on line site I have used, Rockauto who also sell the oem and use the part # you listed. Reasonable shipping as well. They can ship up north in days usually. Can find 5% discount code for their website as well on retail me not, etc. Extra small items usually won’t increase shipping cost. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/dodge,2012,journey,2.4l+l4,1502335,ignition,crankshaft+position+sensor,7196 If the plugs have more than 60k kilometres, change them out for sure. Dump the k&n filter as well. Can get used plastic intake from wrecker if they chopped up plastic parts; not expensive.

Nice work. Even if the flanges are rotten, there are split two piece flanges you can use. Walker etc make them. A sawzall can be used to saw nuts off when flanges are flat design. Exhaust on V6 engines are crappy to work on.

Same cylinder misfire, if it moved to other one then coil is bad. Like OP said, you need to trouble shoot. Bad gas, intake manifold gasket., low compression, etc etc. Try a throttle body recalibration procedure, google it. Injectors rarely fail.

Catalyst efficiency code po420 , down stream O2 sensor triggers this when it’s not happy. Upstream O2 adjusts fuel trim and is more important since it affects fuel economy. How many miles on the spark plugs.? Bad coil can also cause misfire code. Injectors rarely fail. Even bad gas can cause cylinder misfire. I always start with a tank of super gas.

Was it a new or used BT module you installed. I would again pull fuse for the bt in the passenger side kick panel, see what draw is after 2-3 mins with key off, door closed. It’s most common parasitic draw on Journeys. Could also check glove box light is off, nothing plugged in all 5 charging ports. Bad diode in alternator might cause draw. Try unplugging it or removing alt fuse and measuring draw again. Image upside down is usually camera going bad. Has been a few posts about it on forum. The limp mode wasn’t the tcs switch, it was a flaky abs sensor triggering it.

Even if no mil light, scan for codes. Electronic throttle body can cause stalling but will usually set a code.

I removed full liner. This tool good for those push in tree style fasteners. Listle brand around $5-6 bucks. Small jewellery screw driver or pic for the lock tabs on plugs. Some push in, others need to be lifted, finicky. Fragile. I unbolted first, then removed elect plugs after looking at how locking tab worked.

The rear calipers have an issue with the parking brake mechanism starting to drag at around 100k miles. They start to not release fully and you can feel them drag when turning rotor by hand. You can tap the locking lever back easily and free up to drive temporarily. But the return spring is not strong enough and they will continue to drag when you start using parking brake again. I even changed one parking brake cable thinking it was causing lever to not return. I’m about to change second set of calipers with this same problem on daughter in laws 2012 (only one dragging but will change both). Both cars are the bigger rotors. Which are better functioning than the under size set up. New rather than reman calipers might be the better option to fix this issue long term. I used reman on the 2014 and had to put bigger springs on caliper return mechanism within a month to stop dragging again. Ok now at year two. Seems to be a Mopar design flaw IMO. Or a maintenance problem caused by living in salt belt.

It’s probably the viscous coupler. They start to bind and cause the bang noise. The rear drive shaft can be removed to completely disable the rear drive system. Should get rid of all noises. It is triggered to come on by 12 volt power signal, but it starts to bind even when not activated. Check rear diff oil level and front ptu and maybe do a dump and fill to look for metal filings. The delay between wheels when turning by hand is normal. Rear diff can start to leak 75w90 oil from side seals. Most people end up with a rear diff with viscous coupling as an assembly from a auto wrecker. Coupler can be separated and only used with your existing differential if it’s still ok. Buying coupler new from dealer is very pricy.

With the ethanol content in gas getting higher, gasoline ages out much quicker. Try to run ethanol free or add injection cleaner or fuel conditioner once a year maybe. Brake fluid is also time related not just kilometres; fluid absorbs water gradually. Anything less than 5 yrs is probably a waste of money. When a brake job is being done ask them to flush all the lines and reservoir. Adds very little cost to a brake job.

It’s not exactly small, has a large heat sink so needs ventilation. Like power amps. The guy who has done the most interior work on this site is Locosiete. Maybe pm him, he will probably know.

Needs trouble shooting if battery and or alternator are bad. Low voltage can cause all sorts of weird dash lights, normal. If battery is more than 5 years old I would probably just change it. Always charge a new battery before install. When it’s running check what voltage alt is putting out. Should be 13.5-15 ish volts with several accessories running.

Curious about rear upper control arms $1,200. Was that all three rear components lower lateral link, trailing arm and lower lateral arm. And alignment. Or was strut also included. Mopar suspension stuff is pricy.

Could unplug battery for an hour, reseat sensor plug again,. On slim chance it does something. Scan for codes again.

I think you need the wiring diagram for the safety switches under the hood as well. There will be a low pressure and high pressure cut out switch to protect the system components. You need a gauge to see what the pressure is to confirm if one of these switches is bad…or doing it’s job. Even a cheap gauge attatched to one of those refill kits. If a blockage is forcing off system, jogging compressor can blow a line or maybe burn up clutch. But I’m sure you know that.

Yeah I agree, good value and reliable enough for the price. A lot of the similar size SUV’s have serious flaws that make them too expensive to own. Lots of pretty looking, nice features vehicles you don’t really want to have long term. No cvt, or turbo, or servo drive electric power steering etc to cost $2k to repair on the Journey. Some times simple and practical is good…especially if your the mechanic fixing it. I had the first year of Grand Cherokee in 1993 , with the V8. Bought it used after owner got tired of fixing it. Although we it on the road up to 200k. A lot of unusual break downs. Could barely keep refrigerant in hvac system. It was my second and last Jeep. Son in law has the new Bronco Sport. Very noisy compared to Journey, but lots of fancy tec. Seems slow compared to journey, it’s the 1.5 turbo 3 cylinder model. Higher step in height for some people, not great.

Forget what I said about intake gaskets, yours is a four cylinder so doesn’t apply really. My daughter in law has a 2.4 journey 2012. Even when new they are a little under powered. She also had the new cat installed by the recall. Make sure you have the exact correct specified copper core plug in the engine. They have to be changed every 30k-ish miles, but copper is the hottest spark plug and it’s possible (if compression is in spec) that it’s wrong plug causing the misfire issue. With a bent valve they probably put a rebuilt head on the engine. Valve cover gasket is your big oil leak, will need doing soon. Not expensive.

Welcome to forum. Engine was rebuilt how, cylinder head, cams, bottom end ? No warranty left on their work I guess. In take manifold gasket’s should be replaced when plugs are done, they can stay compressed if reused. Can cause misfires. Compression numbers would be useful. Unfortunelty cam or cylinder head issues can often point to random misfire issues. Stuff like injectors and coils don’t go often, would give corresponding codes. If compression is still good, maybe inspect cats anyway.

I like to use oem when I can and price is only 15-20% more. Usually guaranteed fit and slightly better quality. Rockauto sells lots of oem stuff and decent price, Mopar was out of stock so I bought the Dorman item. My egr was already allowing oil residue to leak on side of engine. But no codes were showing up, around 180k kms. Changed it last year and haven’t had any issues. Its a rotary style valve so kinda unusual design, not like the static one in the utube video. Probably more prone to wearing out. . It’s driven by cam shaft. Not hard to change really. Lots of on line sites, can pick up at a dealer and save 30%. https://parts.motorcitychrysler.ca/ https://www.moparpartscanada.ca/

From Ram forums. The only tire-related test available under the BCM in AlfaOBD is Program Tire Size. However, there's a whole Tire Control function that you can select from the main menu, that offers the following procedures: Program Left Front Tire Sensor ID (same for RF) (same for RR) (same for RL) Sensor Rolls Test Activate TPM High GFain Mode Reset VIN Values

CPS very tricky to test, maybe with an oscilloscope. Electronic lab equip that mechanics don’t have. Scanner often will show a CPS code, but not always. $30 part for oem. It,s can becconsidered a wear item after 100k or so, on some cars. Heat and vibration eventually affects part. A loose starter can be tested on the ground with a battery and jumper cables and a screw driver. Power connections arced out with screw driver to engage solenoid and motor.

Starting point is always codes. Starter can be bench tested and tec can also jumper starter relay base connections to by pass all security stuff like transmission range selector, key security and even push button. If lightly tapping starter with rubber mallet makes it work, contacts/springs in solenoid bad, new or rebuilt starter needed. Find a shop that diagnoses and doesn’t just guess at things.

CPS crank sensor can do random no start , sometimes without storing a code.