John/Horace

Which engine ? Miles ? Looks like solenoid is sticking, return spring maybe weak. Reman stuff is always a risk imo, although cheaper. It's very easy to trigger a starter for testing using a battery and a screw driver to jumper power. Utube it. I always test starters before installing,make sure there is no hesitation on pinion gear returning. Changing wrecked ring gear is big expensive job, maybe use a new starter to avoid further damage. Cross check correct part with Rockauto, best on line car parts site...by miles.

Great question. Toyota is a billion dollar company with an embarrassing problem. Vibration analysis experts have probably built mathematical models and special failure studies using weibull, poisson etc distributions. I'm guessing main bearing clearances are some how beening analyzed with recorded sound clips. Heavy duty software in play. Before I retired I was briefly involved with vibration analysis testing. Very cool but involved engineering. Some equipment like $250k AtlasCopco rotory screw air compressors are actually built with sensors already installed. Control panel from the first minute of operation is monitoring mechanicals. Cars arn't expensive enough yet .....to be doing this.

I have added magnetic drain plugs on a few vehicles. Work great and yeah next fluid dump is easy. Added pan with plug on my ram truck. Not a nice aluminum unit like you used,no fins unfortunately. Fluid changes are cheaper than a rebuild, good mod to do. First fluid change always has more fur from the clutches wearing in I think. The additives still wear out over time, so dump and fills will help.

Nice, fins act like heat sink for cooling. Drain plug also good. There is usually a round flat magnet in tranny drain pans that stick to bottom of metal pan and collect small amounts clutch metal fur, I would still put it in bottom of new pan. It won't be quite as effective if it floats around, but probably better than nothing.

How many miles/kms on the vehicle. Two main electrical issues 2.4 is the etb electronic throttle body and cps crank position sensor. Best option is oem for cps and Hitachi makes oem for etb. Plastic gears wear out, lightning symbol on dash some times. Heat/vibration kills cps, I change them by 100k miles even if they haven't failed. Pretty sure they run in the 5 volt control circuit. Look for green connections, doesn't take much to lose 5 volt power.

If you are not using a scanning tool for sensor change, need to access the power fuse in kick panel for the actuator. As you know the cabin venting timer leaves the blender open for a few about 2 mins after shutdown. Prevents mold smell, most newer cars do this. If you have glove box down and you look at sensor, you can see the timer in operation. I have switched to 1/4" square head screws on these sensors. Philps shorty toohard to work with.

Yeah scanning for codes is the best start. My wild guess would be cabin air temp sensor( 55111178AD) or heater core temp (long wire style probe harness) sensor, neither are super pricy, although access might be crappy. You have parts car you can pull from still, so if ATC that would help. Did this journey have the heater core swapped out ? If so probe could have been disturbed.

Vacuum booster is electric, if brakes lose boost it can feel like no brakes... when manual only. Might be codes stored from the stauling incident. Ask to retrieve codes on vehicle. Could be defective vacuum boost pump. But 5rebel9 point about the mechanically operated emergency brake might come into play. In a split second you would be expected to use it correctly. Even experienced drivers would have an issue with that. Tough situation.

With the crazy price of oil they may be cutting corners to save money, or it's just laziness. I assumed screw on cartridge filter; forgot it's 3.6 internal cartridge. Your 2013 has a diff filter than 2014-2020, keep that in mind, not compatible. But inside filter cartridges have markings on them. Plastic top cap can be easily removed and reinstalled with new filter, torque is 25 NM. OEM I think are wix made, one of the better manufacturers. This new Mopar I have showes >PAG-GF30< printed on top seal. The other non oem shows aftermarket company and Thailand. Time to play detective.

Look at brand of filter on vehicle. Is it the same one that shop uses? An air powered impact gun removes over torqued lug nuts 95% of the time. They might be using an electric one. Mini lube tecs aren't real mechanics. Go to a dedicated tire shop, they can probably use johnson bar or big air impact. If a stud breaks they can change it. Not as expensive as real mechanics, your last resort if tire guys can't do it.

Cps crank position sensor worth $25ish dollars (use mopar or NTK brand) is a wear item that strands with no start issue; due now if still original. Heat vibration get to it, easy install item. ETB electronic throttle body if original also good idea. Hitachi makes oem, Rockauto carries it. Minimal labour. Tranny pan drop with new filter and fluid is good idea; atf+4 is semi synthetic and not expensive. Due now. Coils can last life of car, change if cyclinder misfire and codes. Surpentine belts are urethane now, I wait for squealing at start up or signs of cracking. Some people go to platinum plugs, the correct hotter plug is copper and has very short change interval. Easy to get at, so copper is fine.

The 2012 model forward, it's been done lots of times with just lights on dash. 3.5 model I'm not sure, but probably. Even in older awd jeeps (I had two) you can drop driveshaft and run in two wheel. The transfer case can just keep spinning with no load. Need to keep oil topped up to keep noise level low. A good transmission shop can answer that question easily. Shaft drops in about 15 ish minutes. Awd is great in mud and snow but sometimes it takes vehicles of the road sooner. With awd disabled, the traction control and abs will be off line. So not as safe to drive, but ok as an emergency measure. Just don't ask a dealership to do it. The money lights have a purpose.

Make sure it's well supported and as high in the air as possible. Truck stands and chunks of solid wood on ground if needed; concrete blocks get risky. You have the loose donor unit; probably 75 ish pounds. It won't just drop on you; but the drive line will start to sag if not supported a bit. Some people drop the front sub frame; but on a rusty northern car can create more problems to deal with. Holding the body up really well is important. Truck stands have the height and weight capacity. Get a torch if possible for the exhaust bolts; anything cherry red comes loose without breaking or wrecking threads; new flange gaskets needed for reassembly later. You could probably drop drive shaft and use car in two wheel mode until you get ready for the big job. Good luck; big learning experience.

Always start out with reading codes. A good bi directional scanner rather than O'Reilly obd2 reading is needed. Probably a few tranny codes showing up. How is tran fluid level. There is no dipstick but people use the engine oil one to get a rough measurement. Search this site there are a few links about what level is ok using the oil dipstick to measure.

I have had the same xtool for a few months now. Have mostly used it on older before 2018 vehicles. However I recently used it on my brother's 2018 ram for an airbag light. It gave me the "no fcamauth" warnings, then let me through to read the code anyway. After finding the loose plug and reseating, it then let me back in to clear the code. My model stated it worked with out a bypass cable, so far it has. Not sure why, diff firm ware? Not letting you calibrate sensors could be tied to something else. For example oil pressure is used to control cam vvt solenoids, there is probably an acceptable range. Maybe it's right at the edge.

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Autel sensors have to be programmed with their hand held unit. A lot of people use them, they are popular. If you know someone who has programmer (lots of tire shops use them), a set of 4 is probably a lot cheaper. Schrader on our 2012 & 2014 have been plug and play, I had a Dorman made tpms that also worked like that. You need a 433 mhz frequency sensor for this vehicle. The fact that the original factory Schrader ones are only now failing after 14 years and 200k kms makes me want to buy them again. The batteries seem good, even with cdn extreme temperatures of -20C to 35C. Some people automatically swap tpms during new tire install, swapping one at a time later with balance $ etc adds up. A bad wheel bearing will cause traction control and abs light to come on, or bad abs sensor. A bad tpms sensor will not, it has its own separate light. A good bi directional scan tool, like Autel or Top Don or Xtool will show stored codes. Look for abs codes.

Here is a pic of a Schrader tpms I put in yesterday. Factory unit shows same name in tiny print. Came up working in 10-15 miles. Im hoping they have better battery life than cheap knock offs. Will see. Yeah im that cheap, self install them. Number 26 is the year on new one. No balancing if you mark the weights and don't shift tire. Bead sealer just because I have some. Old sensor to environmental recycle place (no direct charge), they are lithium battery. Nasty stuff.

Fuel injectors rarely fail on most older cars. Direct injection injectors on some less than 10 yr old Honda and Nissan, yes. I would guess Bosch injectors, even used would be best option on journeys; since it's a bosch designed system. Can move injector to diff cylinder, scan for codes, check compression etc. Do a lot of trouble shooting before throwing injectors at engine. Its not a common journey problem. Free advice worth everything you pay for it.

Battery is fine, can't overcharge a lead acid battery unless alternator is faulty. You had a high and low codes, could be surge from something else. Your meter may not be perfectly accurate. Start by checking master cylinder brake fluid level in reservoir under hood. If a incline is causing the light to come on it could be low, should be between max and min marks. The light being triggered could cause random codes from abs. As brake pads wear the fluid level goes down; caliper pistons moving out to auto adjust.

Most of the new tpms sensors say preprogrammed. But it doesn't always seem to work, which happened on a Ford I had. Schrader makes a lot of the mopar factory sensors, I have read. I have used that brand which are slightly more expensive than others, rockauto had them. Were plug and play; came right up on cluster without any programming. Free advice worth everything you pay for it.

Third party (non factory) warranty can be harder to use no matter where you live. If dealer sold the vehicle and the warranty as a package. maintenance should be up to date, like transmission oil/filter change etc. Even a used vehicles can have an implied warranty. Refusing warranty coverage is a common tactic to save money. Go back with a confrontational friend; consider paying a lawyer for an hour of consultation. Fingers crossed, tough part of car ownership.

Would be a pain, but if you have the oem radio try plugging it back in. Was the android box installed with an interface box to enable heated steering wheel, 120 volt inverter, anything without physical switches ? Try unhooking it if you added one to dash harness. Locosiete on this site has battled with canbus. Try messaging him. More electrical skills than the rest of us. He disconnected main canbus feed, then traced back to find his problem. Search his posts, clever guy. Has a heavily modified Journey, killer sound system.

Concern with a neglected sludge engine goes beyond just chain. It means cylinder walls can have increased wear so compression can drop below functional level. It can mean oil pump in oil pan can be partly plugged up and also be worn. Oil pressure is used to run timing chain tensioner and the vvt cams. Oil is the life blood of an engine; critical item. Older engines with with minimal tec were more forgiving with missed maint. And we haven't even mentioned turbos yet.