John/Horace

I put a small log book in all my vehicles; track oil changes and all maint work with milage. Can be useful for trouble shooting wear related items. Must be nice to have all that parking space; although I have a garage to work in, total spots are limited. Subdivision house last few yrs, so no access to backyard for trailers. That's why I've kept pick up for hauling stuff. Sure noticing the gas prices right now; truck is thirsty.

Interesting vehicle repair clip. Like most internet postings the comments are close to stand up comedy. I believe the right answer is curtain airbag wiring, don't work in the area with vehicle battery hooked up. https://www.facebook.com/share/r/1KytBQEK4X/

Rims look great, very distinctive. If you can find a rim in the Hollings wheel style catalogue and then use their reference number. LKQ etc can find almost anything. These rims however look like...a nice upgrade.

Fluid film is amazing stuff, have used it a few times. Pricy but doesn't wreck wiring or rubber. Good on trailers as well. Few posts on site with pics on ball joint change. Not that bad on journey, press tool isn't absolutely needed, but easier. New ball joint with grease nipple is preferred by some people. Havent changed a sway bar link on either of the two journeys I work on. Although my struts are over due for changing. Lots of bad roads near by, speeds up front end wear. The cv axle nuts are listed as non reusable on some Internet sites. I've reused them, having changed 3 out of the 4 wheel bearing hubs on our 2014 awd, rechecked torque a few times weeks later, never had an issue. But free advice is worth everything you pay for it.

Ouch, sorry about that. It's only the third time I've ever changed one on a vehicle. So not a common failure I think. The bearing could be pressed out and changed by itself on intermediate shaft, but finding exact bearing would be a chore. I did the wheel bearing hub on that side three years ago, shaft was ok at the time. The leaking transmission oil lip seal is hardest part of job. Recessed far back, so getting it in square is tricky. Had to make up my own seal driver. Not a tight fit at all, which is why a smear of silicone is sometimes used. Looks like daughter in laws high milage journey going to my daughter in the fall. Certification may keep me occupied for a while. Big rockauto order coming up. A 2.4 two wheel drive so easier to work on.

Yeah torch or induction heater on those small shield bolts; then back in with anti seize or dab of grease. You can sure tell it's a southern vehicle; the salt does so much more damage on northern vehicles. Makes me jealous. My back wheel bearing hubs needed new 16mm bolts because of corrosion. I like the cost effective diy puller; cheap and very effective. I was using two cold chisels as wedges and a 5 pound club hammer in my early wheel bearing work. Finally got a cheapo Harbor Freight/Princess Auto sliding hammer about five yrs ago. Fast but sometimes you have ball bearings flying across the garage. But I prefer swapping a hub over pressing in a bearing any day.

Like they are saying, look closely at all wires. There are posts with pics on this site. My high 3rd brake light on hatch died, power ok but no ground. While soldering the one wire, could see three other wires showing wear. Electronic solder, heat shrink and tywraps are not expensive, just time consuming. Black polyurethane is good for waterproofing wire loom boot, along with small tywraps for strength.

The leak is not likely tied to the storage bins. I just realized they are completely isolated from the side channels that run beneath the door. The main cause of front cabin floor leaks. I'm sure the dealers are very familiar with this leak and know exactly how to fix it. The question is can you guilt them into fixing their assembly flaw at a reasonable price. Not a great time to be trying to switch vehicles; prices sky high everywhere. Companies taking advantage, shame. It may be only plugged drainage holes in front subframe. Cleared out with a 1/4" drill bit. One young guy on this site fixed his leak in an hour by himself, not even a mechanic. Had a bit of luck too.

This what the floor doors look like.

Interesting. Looks like access doors on both sides in floor were not installed. Maybe last year of manufacture they just decided to not bother, you must have the 2.4 engine as well, the 3.6 was no longer offered. The 2.4 is still a decent engine. My only concern would be if water happened to leak into the large boxes. There are removeable drain plugs, but they pull out from inside storage box. If you suspect water is trapped, could drill out the visible plug and then reseal it after water is removed. They could probably hold two gallons each side. Shame they blocked them off, handy option really. If you are battling water leak still, maybe check with a regular mechanic. Most people have been able to sort out the water leaks eventually.

My daughter in laws 2.4 has 125k miles and still no water pump issue. They seem to use a decent pump. The plastic manifold on the side of the engine that does cabin heat is a problem like 5rebel9 is saying. We fixed two leaks on this assembly. Bottled Water This assembly has the separate thermostat for cabin heat. I bought the whole Gates assembly because the dealer unit was 3 times aftermarket price. Then had a constant drip with the new unit. Ended up moving all new seals to the old factory manifold, no leak afterwards. Just look where the red crusty dried glycol is collecting. Pic is of plastic manifold. Oring on coolant temp sensor is also another leak spot. Might have two problems, fan speed and a coolant leak.

Was doing an oil change, noticed passenger side intermediate shaft bearing was looking bad. Side Seal was flopping around and a few ball bearings were missing. Also transmission output oil seal was starting to drip fluid. Around 175k miles, so not unexpected. Dealer had the output seal in stock, but shaft was on back order...and very pricy. Heavy item for shipping so rockauto not a great option, local part store had one in stock. Shaft came out ok, but knocking in output seal squarely not easy. Had a small drip after assembly was finished. Tapped seal in farther and added bead of gray rtv around perimeter; let in dry 24 hrs. Seems ok now. On a hoist it would be easier to do this repair.

If your sxt is awd and the 3.6 v6 engine, have them change your cps (crank position sensor)r during the transmission rebuild. It will take 3 hrs ish to change this part when it fails in a few yrs. But only 15 mins to change this $25 part with the transmission removed. Info only applys to awd models. It not that likely a 61k transmission needs a full rebuild, may only be tcc solenoid or maybe a fluid body replacement, whick is done with transmission in place, so minimal labor. Like larry is saying, get a few opinions on repairs.

I assume it's knocking and leaking. For my wife's 3.6 journey I used the gates brand, it has a lifetime warranty, no housing option. But I bought the oem dealer gasket, its an unusual 30 thou thick aluminum material design. Even though gates came with its own gasket. A lot of labour on the V6 engine, didn't want to waste time doing it twice. I try to use recognizable oem manufacturers like Gates, Dayco, GMB and if I can afford it dealer parts which are the best option in most cases. They even give good discounts if ordered at Mopar Canada online and picked up at a dealer, where I am. Dealer parts are meant to last beyond a decent warranty period, so you do pay a bit more. You might see Mexico or China on the bags...but it is made to Stellantis quality specs. What is interesting is the pump with housing and pulley deals are cheaper than just a pump flange unit no pulley. Logically the extra 2 pounds of steel and gaskets would cost more money. But getting the heavier assembly could bump up shipping costs. It's a bit more work changing the whole pump and housing, but you are replacing several extra original gaskets that are 5 yrs old. With time they can wear out. You are also getting a machined pump assembly, flanges are going to be matched/true from machining. My daughter in law has a 2.4 journey, I'm planing on changing the whole assembly if extra shipping is minimal.

Need to trouble shoot. Biggest issue with journey are bad grounds, clean up grounds on both strut tires, even grind off paint then very thin film of dielectric grease. Next would be to check out light switch staulk on steering wheel, multi meter for 12+ output voltage and good ground. Could also try removing tipm module, cleaning up contacts so they are shiny, then reseat module. Like dean H is saying...the 2009-10 models had some some issues with module, lots of stuff routed through it.

Above my pay scale. Charger/Ram forum has the technocrats. Bluetooth 5.3 current version way diff than 2012. Streaming platforms like Spotify have lot of hidden functionality. Bluetooth card not super pricy. Cheers.

Skipped track on the 8.4 dash screen triggers it, and the steering wheel radio control as well ? Have you tried to use phone Bluetooth link instead of hard cable to see if it changes anything. Yeah jumping tracks is critical; love Radio Paradise free app with downloaded blocks on phone. No advertising and several music styles to choose from. One of the oldest streaming sites from even AOL days.

Tough situation; most people have struggled with journey interior water leaks. A minor leak would be harder to find. My leak was mainly when vehicle was parked on a slope. In most leaks reported it was the holes in the chanel that runs underneath the front car doors. There is yellow foam insulation peeking out from the 5-6 visible holes. But where the water goes in isn't necessarily where it comes out (usually chanel holes). Difficult to trouble shoot.

Any codes stored ? 2009-10 were the years with tipm issues. Can do a lot of weird things, random horn honking, lights staying on issues etc. People have made up their own bypass harness to trouble shoot if it is the actual problem. Can reseat module, clean up connection contacts with rubbing alcohol or electronic cleaner. Bad solder joint often is the real cause, reman units are available. Free advice worth everything you pay for it. 🙂

Sounds like the awd is engaging itself right when wheels are engaged. It's a really simple birg warner system that cannot be turned on independently. I believe if slippage is detected an electric solenoid on rear diff actuates the awd coupling to transfer power; it is only functional up to 55 mph. Turning off traction control before you come out of park might prevent the awd falsely engaging. Could be an abs sensor triggering it. So code reading needed. Only way to temporarily disable awd is to unplug the power plug on the side of rear diff;but you will have a permanent dash light afterwards. And no functioning awd.

Welcome to the site. Transaxle warning light ; is that traction control symbol or check engine light on dash. Flashing ?

Yeah I agree new flex hose worth exploring, can collapse internally, not noticeable. Generally new over reman is a better option; but not always. It was a kimpex spring used on snowmobiles, don't have a part number. About 1/3 larger dia, same length. Harbour Freight/Princess Auto have assorted springs usually. But hose first.

This guy hyperdrive36 used a borscope and analyzed the hell out of a driver floor water leak. Best posting on this site about water leaks. Talked about not wanting to have whole car taken apart with fender off to fix it. Even found a way on his own to stop leak, amazing. He is probably not 73 yrs old; show this post to body shop guy, should help huge with trouble shooting imo.

And a 50' extension cord with hair dryer likely to trip breaker anyway. Leave a window cracked open in parking garage if possible, vent some of moisture. Maybe body shop can dry it out after leak fixed. Mold smell very hard to get rid of, I wasn't quick enough to find leak. Took over a month to get rid of smell, summer June temp was around 80 F, so windows open in my garage and bounce dryer sheets. My leak much worse than yours, three trys to fix leak.

I lifted my carpet up a bit after removing some of the hold down trim. Used a small piece of 2x4 to prop up off the floor well. Hair dryers need 120 volt house current because they are 1500 watts running. My leak was on passenger side, took several tries to avoid an inch in floor well after rain storms. There is a metal track in the lower firewall area that the windshield cowling water is diverted to. There are at least 3-4 drain holes in the sheet metal on each side of front passenger compartment. Rust flakes road dust etc clog the holes. A long approx 1\4" drill bit can be used to clear the holes out again. Running a hose in the top of the windshield should trigger water flow from most of the underside drain holes. Can clean out the holes that aren't flowing properly. Some people have very carefully drilled new extra holes, body shop guys would have this ability. Hopefully not necessary.