John/Horace

Always start out with reading codes. A good bi directional scanner rather than O'Reilly obd2 reading is needed. Probably a few tranny codes showing up. How is tran fluid level. There is no dipstick but people use the engine oil one to get a rough measurement. Search this site there are a few links about what level is ok using the oil dipstick to measure.

I have had the same xtool for a few months now. Have mostly used it on older before 2018 vehicles. However I recently used it on my brother's 2018 ram for an airbag light. It gave me the "no fcamauth" warnings, then let me through to read the code anyway. After finding the loose plug and reseating, it then let me back in to clear the code. My model stated it worked with out a bypass cable, so far it has. Not sure why, diff firm ware? Not letting you calibrate sensors could be tied to something else. For example oil pressure is used to control cam vvt solenoids, there is probably an acceptable range. Maybe it's right at the edge.

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Autel sensors have to be programmed with their hand held unit. A lot of people use them, they are popular. If you know someone who has programmer (lots of tire shops use them), a set of 4 is probably a lot cheaper. Schrader on our 2012 & 2014 have been plug and play, I had a Dorman made tpms that also worked like that. You need a 433 mhz frequency sensor for this vehicle. The fact that the original factory Schrader ones are only now failing after 14 years and 200k kms makes me want to buy them again. The batteries seem good, even with cdn extreme temperatures of -20C to 35C. Some people automatically swap tpms during new tire install, swapping one at a time later with balance $ etc adds up. A bad wheel bearing will cause traction control and abs light to come on, or bad abs sensor. A bad tpms sensor will not, it has its own separate light. A good bi directional scan tool, like Autel or Top Don or Xtool will show stored codes. Look for abs codes.

Here is a pic of a Schrader tpms I put in yesterday. Factory unit shows same name in tiny print. Came up working in 10-15 miles. Im hoping they have better battery life than cheap knock offs. Will see. Yeah im that cheap, self install them. Number 26 is the year on new one. No balancing if you mark the weights and don't shift tire. Bead sealer just because I have some. Old sensor to environmental recycle place (no direct charge), they are lithium battery. Nasty stuff.

Fuel injectors rarely fail on most older cars. Direct injection injectors on some less than 10 yr old Honda and Nissan, yes. I would guess Bosch injectors, even used would be best option on journeys; since it's a bosch designed system. Can move injector to diff cylinder, scan for codes, check compression etc. Do a lot of trouble shooting before throwing injectors at engine. Its not a common journey problem. Free advice worth everything you pay for it.

Battery is fine, can't overcharge a lead acid battery unless alternator is faulty. You had a high and low codes, could be surge from something else. Your meter may not be perfectly accurate. Start by checking master cylinder brake fluid level in reservoir under hood. If a incline is causing the light to come on it could be low, should be between max and min marks. The light being triggered could cause random codes from abs. As brake pads wear the fluid level goes down; caliper pistons moving out to auto adjust.

Most of the new tpms sensors say preprogrammed. But it doesn't always seem to work, which happened on a Ford I had. Schrader makes a lot of the mopar factory sensors, I have read. I have used that brand which are slightly more expensive than others, rockauto had them. Were plug and play; came right up on cluster without any programming. Free advice worth everything you pay for it.

Third party (non factory) warranty can be harder to use no matter where you live. If dealer sold the vehicle and the warranty as a package. maintenance should be up to date, like transmission oil/filter change etc. Even a used vehicles can have an implied warranty. Refusing warranty coverage is a common tactic to save money. Go back with a confrontational friend; consider paying a lawyer for an hour of consultation. Fingers crossed, tough part of car ownership.

Would be a pain, but if you have the oem radio try plugging it back in. Was the android box installed with an interface box to enable heated steering wheel, 120 volt inverter, anything without physical switches ? Try unhooking it if you added one to dash harness. Locosiete on this site has battled with canbus. Try messaging him. More electrical skills than the rest of us. He disconnected main canbus feed, then traced back to find his problem. Search his posts, clever guy. Has a heavily modified Journey, killer sound system.

Concern with a neglected sludge engine goes beyond just chain. It means cylinder walls can have increased wear so compression can drop below functional level. It can mean oil pump in oil pan can be partly plugged up and also be worn. Oil pressure is used to run timing chain tensioner and the vvt cams. Oil is the life blood of an engine; critical item. Older engines with with minimal tec were more forgiving with missed maint. And we haven't even mentioned turbos yet.

Four cycles, intake, compression, combustion and exhaust. There are codes that will prevent a engine from starting; disabling either spark or fuel. Like 5rebel9 is saying, you can't look at a chain and guestimate chain slack to know if it's ok. Timing marks would have to be lined up on both cams and crank shaft to see if it's off. Weak tensioner can allow extra slack, but engine can run rough if timing is slightly out. Beyond 10 degrees not likely. How many miles on this engine? Sludge shows possible missed oil changes; so compression tester should be used to evaluate all cylinders. Are the plugs getting wet from gas ? Usually there would be a code if fuel pressure is low.

I like Xtool Anyscan A30M , lifetime updates and works with phone app you download. Has worked on at least 6 different brand vehicles for me. Even newer Stellantis with FCauth set up; no pig tail extra harness needed. Some bi directional features, depends on model of car. Can program a lot of sensors, was a cyber friday deal for $180 reg $300 cdn pesos. No remote programming feature. On some older vehicles cps sensor doesn't have to be programmed. Just plug and play.

Could be a coincidence that cps died at the same time battery did. If car has more than 100k on it, I would buy an oem cranks sensor and swap it out, there is a code for it. Inspect wires going to sensor for visible damage. Engine won't start without good crank position sensor signal. Can't easily trouble shoot the $30 ish easy to change sensor. It's not parts canon if you have a constant code. Use mopar or NTK who make the mopar part, rumour has it. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/dodge,2019,journey,2.4l+l4,3443654,ignition,crankshaft+position+sensor,7196

Replacing the transmission range sensor (or switch) on a 4-speed Dodge Journey is typically an external repair. It involves disconnecting the negative battery terminal, removing the battery and airbox for access, unbolting the shift linkage, and swapping the electrical switch. The entire process takes about 1 to 2 hours. [1, 2, 3, 4] Tools Needed Socket wrench set (including 8mm and 12mm sockets) Wrench extensions and a swivel joint Pliers Screwdriver or clip removal tools Brake cleaner and silicone grease Jack and jack stands (if working partially from underneath) [1] Step-by-Step Replacement Prepare the vehicle: Park on a level surface, engage the parking brake, and shift the vehicle into neutral. Let the engine cool. [1, 2] Gain access: Open the hood and disconnect the negative battery terminal. Remove the air filter box/snorkel and the battery. Remove the battery tray to fully expose the top of the transmission housing where the sensor is mounted. [1, 2, 3] Disconnect the shift cable: Locate the shifting cable linkage attached to the sensor. Use pliers to gently remove the retaining clip from the cable and set it aside. [1, 2] Remove the shifting lever: Locate the 12 mm nut securing the shift lever to the sensor shaft. With the lever still pulled into neutral, remove this nut and slide the shifting lever off the shaft. [1] Unbolt the sensor: Unplug the main electrical connector from the transmission range sensor. Then, remove the bolts (usually two 8mm bolts) holding the sensor to the transmission housing. You may need an extension and swivel socket for the bottom bolt. [1] Remove the old sensor: Carefully pull the old sensor off the shaft. Ensure the old seal or O-ring does not get stuck inside the housing. [1, 2] Install the new sensor: Clean the splines with brake cleaner and apply a light coat of silicone grease. Align the flat spot on the new sensor with the flat spot on the vehicle's spline (rotate to the neutral position if necessary). Slide it in parallel to prevent resistance. [1] Reassemble: Bolt the sensor down securely, reattach the shifting lever and the 12 mm nut, clip the shifting cable back into place, and plug in the electrical connector. [1] Finalize: Reinstall the battery tray, battery, and airbox, and reconnect the negative battery terminal. Post-Installation Start the vehicle and shift through all gears to confirm smooth operation and that the gear indicator in your dashboard works correctly. If your check engine light was on, you will need an OBD2 scanner to clear the old transmission range sensor codes (such as P0705 or P0706). [, 2, 3, 4]

Good stuff, need to be creative sometimes. That works as long you don't damage threads on shaft. Although die could clean that problem up. Practicing on an auto wrecker vehicle can be a warm up for stuff you haven't done before. It often helps seeing things completely apart before starting some jobs.

Robo-johan made him do it. Skin care products on a car repair forum, hilarious. Low traffic is better than no traffic I guess.

I hope we are getting some pics of this worthy endeavour. Headliner work is tricky, mechanical repairs are more my strength.

I did two years ago. If never apart the taper fit needs lots of force to separate. I have a really old steering wheel puller that fit into the tight recess. Removing without damaging is the hard part. Harbor Freight has some unusual pullers, that are cheap enough for one off use. Cowling plastic would be cheap from auto recycler if you are replacing broken plastic.

Ashley must run Uber or some kind of delivery driving. The journey 2.4 is not the self distructing tiger shark four cylinder for sure. Most people do a crank sensor and electronic throttle body by 100-150k miles. Cooling system manifold tends to leak by then as well. Not a difficult repair. I wonder how many transmissions and and if starter still original, water pump? Daughter in laws 2.4 oil pan also rotted out by 120k. It's only at 150k miles now, slight oil usage. It works pretty hard in the big journey body. Simple can be good in the automotive world. The hour meter in the guage cluster should still be recording in the high milage 2.4 journey. Could do an approx milage calculation using that.

Welcome to the site. How many miles on vehicle, model ? How long have tires been in use; what is the wear pattern? Noise can be so many things. Lower ball joints are very common wear item on journey front ends. Easiest test is tire off the ground and hands at 12 and 6 o'clock, for play. Shouldn't be up and down play. While 3 and 9 oclock is good for tierod play testing. Our 2014 needed driver side ball joint replaced at 50k miles or 75k ish kilometers. Quality of roads driven on make a difference. Earliest yr of journeys 2009-11 had the cheaper suspension parts. Later yrs much better.

Found the old post again. Haven't tried link. https://www.driveuconnect.com/support/software-update.html

I have run two phones on a 2014 uconnect system for a few years. One phone is designated as the favourite. It's an older system so a little finicky, ours is an 8.4 screen but that shouldn't matter. Maybe pull both power fuses from radio so it has no power for 20 seconds. Then repair with Bluetooth to both phones. I know us older guys hate fighting with this stuff, but ....it is handy when it works right. Haven't tried to update ours, but there is a firmware update on the uconnect web site. Copied to a USB jump drive and then uploaded, like map updates. I posted a link to the uconnect site a few years ago. The Bluetooth module seems to be the thing that acts up the most with these uconnect systems. There is that New Jersey guy on this site who tests and reflashes the hfm modules; gives a recore for your old one. He seems legitimate and pricing not unreasonable.

Ours has the vanity mirror lights, they are handy. I like the new clear adhesives for interior work. Gorilla glue or E6000, urethane based I think, easy to cut off excess, quite strong.