LXRitw

Well not sure if anyone remembers me or my post last year about getting the flex plate repaired. All has been well with the flex plate, had it in for a transmission fluid drain and fill along with the filter being changed about 6 months ago. Apparently the mechanic failed to mention the leak that developed from the transfer case since the flex plate was done. I took it in for state inspection and asked them to check the oil cooler for a leak as I was having to add motor oil between changes it wasn’t much at first half a quart here half a quart there. However once the winter hit the leak got worse I suppose due to the seals shrinking in the cold so I wanted to have it addressed ASAP. They proceeded to tell me it was actually the transfer case leaking and they had to order the seal from the dealer and to call to schedule that. This confused me as I took it in for an oil leak so I went for a second opinion at a different shop with good reviews and that I’ve dealt with once before for suspension work. He confirms the transfer case is in fact leaking and that it’s quite bad, he also sent me a video of the excessive play in the driveshaft where the transfer case and driveshaft connect. The transfer case was on its way out due to the unaddressed leak. He quoted about $3k for a USED transfer case with 81k miles I was at 99,500 roughly when I took it in to address the leak. He’s a great and honest guy he told me if it was him he’d trade it in and get something else so unfortunately between the second 4 figure repair in a year and the still unsolved oil leak/consumption and the dreaded water leaking into the drivers side carpet returning I decided to just cut my losses and traded it in for a 2024 Mazda. I was sad to see the Journey go, really I was. She never left me stranded and drove for probably a year with a cracked flex plate before I confirmed it was cracked. Maybe I’ll get another down the line as a backup vehicle but for now my Journey’s life with me has come to an end. I wish I had known about the leak sooner as I would’ve repaired the leak and drove it till the wheels fell off. I did not have any clue of the leak as there were no drips or stains in my driveway, it was pooling up on the transfer case and dripping onto the rear engine mount. I appreciate all the help I got on here trying to address the water leaking into the drivers side carpet as well as easing my mind with the flex plate situation. Maybe the next owner will replace the transfer case and enjoy all the maintenance I had just done haha such as the thermostat, front brakes/rotors and new caliper on passenger side front.

I only had to pound the passenger side pads in but as I said once they were in they seemed to move freely within the clips/bracket. The caliper on that side is a new reman caliper so it is completely rust free for now, I suspect I may need to file down the pad ears a bit or recheck the new clips I installed. The drivers side pads went in with no pounding or problems. It looks like we’re clear of rain the next couple days so I will take a look before I head to work tonight. Also it has been 2 days since I completed the brake job and everything seems to be functioning properly. I don’t have any noises or grinding and the rotors are wearing in properly but I will still triple check my work. It was my first time doing a brake job by myself, usually have help of some sort so I was just following along with a YouTube video.

Thank you guys the brake pads on the drivers side slid in pretty smooth but the passenger side where the slide pin was seized I did have to kind of hammer in there. So once these storms pass us I will go ahead and see if I maybe didn’t clean up the bracket enough with my wire brush or possibly may need to file the pad ears on that side. I will say however that once I got the pads in on the passenger side they did seem to move nicely, I did use some of the purple permatex grease on the ears of the pads as well on the slide pins.

Hello so I completed my first brake job yesterday, everything went somewhat smoothly I did have to replace my front right caliper as the one slide pin was seized and I could not remove it. However I believe I placed the pad with the squealer tab on the outside of the rotor not the inside like you’re supposed to. I know it’s better to place it on the inside as that side usually wears faster, I’m just wondering if it would be worth it to take everything back apart to swap the pads around. Will it hinder my braking performance if I don’t swap them around?

Thank you Horace I successfully was able to drill some new holes and a good bit of water came out. Hoping this solution works as I finally got the carpet dried out again, like you said it would be very costly to have someone pull the fender off and reseal everything just for the drain holes to still be clogged. My drain holes along my rockers were also plugged up with foam and just gunk in general my drill was able to free up most of it and I got some water out of those holes as well.

From what I gather it is somewhere around the windshield/fender area. I’ve used polyurethane on all the seams I can see with my eye and I’ve pulled the fender liner off. Not really sure what else to try here besides more drainage holes it continues to enter in through white parts along the sill where the trim clips in. Which means it is entering the rocker panel area somewhere and not exiting

So I did end up going to get the polyurethane as you suggested and it slowed the leak but definitely did not stop it I had a small puddle where the carpet would go this morning. The storms are supposed to stop early in the evening today so I am going to drill some extra drainage holes. You wouldn’t happen to have pictures showing where you drilled the holes do you? From what I understood in your post it was somewhere along the rocker panel close to the wheel well. The hole where the foam was removed is dry however it is still making its way up through the door sill where the retaining clips for the trim go.

So I’ve ran a hose and it seems that I solved the leak coming from the door sill however the yellow foam seems to also be the culprit. I’ve poked out some and it is coming out moist so I am going to clear out the rest of the foam and put some silicone to fill the hole. We are supposed to get rain tonight so I will report back tomorrow but I think this may be my smoking gun.

No sunroof on my model and I did check the A/C drain underneath the car I will have to take a look at the one near the gas pedal on my days off. I did find the video concerning the seams near the fender and firewall. As I said above I have reapplied silicone 3 times now thinking I maybe left a gap somewhere for the water to continue to get in. I will be pulling the carpet up this weekend when I’m off in hopes of getting to the source I’ve also seen it could be coming from an area where the wiring harness enters the car for the drivers side door controls. I will keep digging through the forum posts it’s a shame honestly I really do like this car hoping I can find a solution this weekend I will update if I’m able to solve the issue.

Hello I have a 2019 Dodge Journey Crossroad AWD 3.6L. I recently discovered my drivers side carpet to be wet which led me to check behind the seat and the storage bin had a small puddle inside. I found an old thread on here from 2020 and a YouTube video showcasing where the leak is coming from. Both the forum post and video suggested putting some silicone to fill this gap in the body of the car as this seems to be where the water is seeping through. However I have applied silicone 3 times now and water is still leaking inside when it rains heavily and I was finally able to get the carpet dried out this past week before more storms hit us. Is it possible I am just not getting the silicone in the correct place? Or could it be from a different area on the body? I have linked the old thread below but would appreciate some insight if anyone has dealt with a similar issue I feel as if a drain is clogged somewhere along the floorboard as not every model if affected by this.

Final bill was $1295.52 they had to replace an exhaust gasket for one of the crossover pipes. All in all it wasn’t quite as expensive as I expected and my car sounds better than the day I bought it so I’m pleased. Hopefully no more major repairs are in my future it did take them 2 extra hours on top of book time due to some rusted exhaust bolts.

An update for anyone who’s interested, mechanic called me today to let me know it is finished. I will update with the final bill tomorrow when I pick it up as I’m about to head into work. I expect somewhere in the $1200 range as they did have to replace a gasket and they also went ahead with my request to replace the crank position sensor.

I will definitely mention it to him when I drop the car off next Monday. I’m sure he would agree I think I finally found an honest mechanic haha. I’m seeing the OEM Mopar part on rockauto for about 18 bucks so it would only make sense if he’s already gonna have it apart to just swap it.

I bought the car used at 60k miles and have put about 15k on it since then. I suspect the mounts have been broken for some time as the vibration from the mounts has been there since I purchased the car. I don’t drive it heavily at all the most pedal I give it is going uphill as I live in a mountain area so there are some steep hills. I think I’ve just had bad luck with mechanics I’ve been chasing this issue for over a year now before the new mechanic came into the picture. I have a ‘19 Crossroad AWD with the 3.6, the mechanic thinks the mounts being shot is what caused the flex plate to break but that he is going to have a look at the torque converter as well when he has it apart. I appreciate the insight, part of me is glad it wasn’t the engine but I’m hoping the transmission hasn’t suffered any further damage.

I am posting this as an update to one of my previous posts labeled “Is my engine done for?”. After having this intermittent noise for over a year I recently moved and had to find a new mechanic. I have had it at 2 different mechanics for said noise and the first one said it sounded fine to him and the 2nd mechanic suspected it could be the wrong Oil in my engine so he did an oil change and noise was gone for a while. Well after moving the noise became more frequent and was no longer intermittent. I took it to the new mechanic and he also said he couldn’t find any noise (this was about a month ago) but that my motor mounts and transmission mount needed to be replaced as they were shot. Fast forward to today and I took my car in for state inspection and to have the motor mounts replaced and the mechanic calls me to tell me he found the noise and it is coming from the flex plate. He removed the inspection cover and found the flex plate is cracked, in his words my car was the “holy shit” moment of the day. Never a good thing to hear from your mechanic, he is pushing my vehicle ahead of other customers but he still doesn’t have availability until the 23rd of next week. I am just wondering if anyone here has any experience with flex plate issues? I suspect I’ve been driving on the broken flex plate for a while now and am concerned about further damage even though the car still drives fine.