John/Horace

Suspension noises can be tricky to trouble shoot. The stabilizer bar on a car is to help handling by transferring weight to the opposite side of car when turning. Rather than just throwing parts at it there are steps you can do to help diagnose noise source. Front and rear stabilizer bars are not carrying weight so easiest way to see if it’s the source is to remove the end links and just leave the bar in place. This separates the assembly parts and allows you to safely drive it to check for noise. If it’s gone the source is either the end links or the two bushings on the stabilizer bar. You could even drive a few days with out end links in place until you get parts. If noise is still there, there are now quite a few potential sources for noise unfortunately. Struts are the most common wear item for noise, but there are parts often over looked , like the link rod or lateral arm bushings in the rear suspension. Not that expensive but changing them can affect alignment, so not just a diy job. Even Worn subframe mounts can create weird noises. Mechanics stethoscope can be handy for finding stuff, not very expensive either. Spaying lube like someone mentioned also quite useful to isolate sources. But not a fix.

I also maintain vehicles for kids. On a short visit it’s like NASCAR pit crew repair routine. Tranny often overlooked for maintenance with the “sealed unit” dealer selling concept. No dip stick means forget about it; ... can get expensive. The full synthetics definitely last longer, but eventually the additives wear out. It’s not necessarily that the oil is dirty or contaminated. New oil is better than unknown snake oil additives IMO. On the journey six speed it was quite easy to suck out almost exactly four litres with manual pump . A little less volume on the 4 speed. New ATF+4 oil even from dealer not expensive compared to tranny rebuild. Some vehicles the pan filter has a magnet built into it (Hyundai sometimes). Makes it more important to drop pan and change whole unit in that case

I would have just added gold fish and called it a day. New lights quite an improvement in appearance.

I’ve done the 6 speed tranny fluid but not dropped the pan on a dodge 4 Speed yet. I agree oem mopar parts is way to go if not crazy price; guaranteed proper fit worth a little more money IMO. AMF+4 in jugs a little cheaper, if not dealer then good after market brand Iike Castrol. Buy extra fluid; I like to use manual suction pump a few days after pan drop and replace another 4 litres. Hose fed down through dipstick and it only takes 10 mins to remove used oil. Now most oil is changed out. 4 speed uses pan gasket not silicone, so no over night drying needed, also kinda nice. If pan-has a little donut shaped magnet , clean it off and reuse it. Use 1/4” ratchet and don’t over torque those little fastners, use torque wrench if you have one, approx setting 100 inch pounds. Make sure to clean off surface where pan gasket goes, scotch bright or sandpaper to remove all of old gasket. After oil change and truck started, shift through all gears then back to park. Read dip stick info, it may say to measure fluid in neutral, use parking brake. Fluid temp matters, H for hot or full engine temperature. Low level can cause cavitation, damage tranny, accurate level matters. Messy job....good luck. No dipstick for the 6 speed is no big deal. Dorman sells a dipstick with markings on it and a temperature chart. I think rockauto sells it still. Pics of dipstick kit and cheapo Harbour Freight type oil suction pump, very handy $15 item.

You may have fixed this by now. I would put the old sensor back in first since car functioned without limp biscuit mode. What codes showed up that made you change tps sensor? It’s possible they sold you wrong part. It was the whole throttle assembly you changed out correct? May not be a plug and play part, sometimes they can require a learn procedure from a dodge compatible hand held scanner. Drive by wire cars also have an output sensor on the gas pedal that works together with throttle actuator.

Hey there just decided to join the site. I have the joy/hate of looking after two Journeys in the extended family for two years now. A 2012 2.4 owned from new and a used 2014 R/T Awd with the much more fun V6. Have owned/worked on quite a few different brands (yeah I’m real old) over the years. Like a good value play in the used car market, and there aren’t that many at a good price that hang together. I’m a retired millwright mechanic on pension so I like to diy what ever I can. Electrical always the bigger challenge than straight mechanical stuff. Waaayyy too much complicated electronics on newer cars; but when working right I’m happy to have them like everyone else.

The newer style lid like in my picture has a small plastic piece held in place by two tabs. The small plastic piece looks identical to what he is holding in his hand. I had to replace my leaking oil cooler last year, the pic is the newer style cap from my 2014. I’m guessing the plastic sometimes gets britttle with age and the constant heat. I think this piece seals opening in top of filter, part of bypass design.

Nice link YYZ lots of info there. Sooo it seems like the check valve that is broken, forces the oil through the filter. Driving it as is means the oil can bypass being filtered, short term not that big a deal IMO. Early cars didn’t even have oil filters until approx the early 1950’s and the oil quality was also crap. With the mopar part number some else posted, you should be able to track down part. Rockauto lists a dorman and mopar oil filter cover, both in stock for between $11- $17 cdn pesos. Rockauto really rocks for parts IMO, cheap shipping and quick delivery even across border. Good luck. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/dodge,2015,journey,3.6l+v6,3309784,engine,oil+filter+cover,5561