John/Horace

Even if no mil light, scan for codes. Electronic throttle body can cause stalling but will usually set a code.

I removed full liner. This tool good for those push in tree style fasteners. Listle brand around $5-6 bucks. Small jewellery screw driver or pic for the lock tabs on plugs. Some push in, others need to be lifted, finicky. Fragile. I unbolted first, then removed elect plugs after looking at how locking tab worked.

The rear calipers have an issue with the parking brake mechanism starting to drag at around 100k miles. They start to not release fully and you can feel them drag when turning rotor by hand. You can tap the locking lever back easily and free up to drive temporarily. But the return spring is not strong enough and they will continue to drag when you start using parking brake again. I even changed one parking brake cable thinking it was causing lever to not return. I’m about to change second set of calipers with this same problem on daughter in laws 2012 (only one dragging but will change both). Both cars are the bigger rotors. Which are better functioning than the under size set up. New rather than reman calipers might be the better option to fix this issue long term. I used reman on the 2014 and had to put bigger springs on caliper return mechanism within a month to stop dragging again. Ok now at year two. Seems to be a Mopar design flaw IMO. Or a maintenance problem caused by living in salt belt.

It’s probably the viscous coupler. They start to bind and cause the bang noise. The rear drive shaft can be removed to completely disable the rear drive system. Should get rid of all noises. It is triggered to come on by 12 volt power signal, but it starts to bind even when not activated. Check rear diff oil level and front ptu and maybe do a dump and fill to look for metal filings. The delay between wheels when turning by hand is normal. Rear diff can start to leak 75w90 oil from side seals. Most people end up with a rear diff with viscous coupling as an assembly from a auto wrecker. Coupler can be separated and only used with your existing differential if it’s still ok. Buying coupler new from dealer is very pricy.

With the ethanol content in gas getting higher, gasoline ages out much quicker. Try to run ethanol free or add injection cleaner or fuel conditioner once a year maybe. Brake fluid is also time related not just kilometres; fluid absorbs water gradually. Anything less than 5 yrs is probably a waste of money. When a brake job is being done ask them to flush all the lines and reservoir. Adds very little cost to a brake job.

It’s not exactly small, has a large heat sink so needs ventilation. Like power amps. The guy who has done the most interior work on this site is Locosiete. Maybe pm him, he will probably know.

Needs trouble shooting if battery and or alternator are bad. Low voltage can cause all sorts of weird dash lights, normal. If battery is more than 5 years old I would probably just change it. Always charge a new battery before install. When it’s running check what voltage alt is putting out. Should be 13.5-15 ish volts with several accessories running.

Curious about rear upper control arms $1,200. Was that all three rear components lower lateral link, trailing arm and lower lateral arm. And alignment. Or was strut also included. Mopar suspension stuff is pricy.

Could unplug battery for an hour, reseat sensor plug again,. On slim chance it does something. Scan for codes again.

I think you need the wiring diagram for the safety switches under the hood as well. There will be a low pressure and high pressure cut out switch to protect the system components. You need a gauge to see what the pressure is to confirm if one of these switches is bad…or doing it’s job. Even a cheap gauge attatched to one of those refill kits. If a blockage is forcing off system, jogging compressor can blow a line or maybe burn up clutch. But I’m sure you know that.

Yeah I agree, good value and reliable enough for the price. A lot of the similar size SUV’s have serious flaws that make them too expensive to own. Lots of pretty looking, nice features vehicles you don’t really want to have long term. No cvt, or turbo, or servo drive electric power steering etc to cost $2k to repair on the Journey. Some times simple and practical is good…especially if your the mechanic fixing it. I had the first year of Grand Cherokee in 1993 , with the V8. Bought it used after owner got tired of fixing it. Although we it on the road up to 200k. A lot of unusual break downs. Could barely keep refrigerant in hvac system. It was my second and last Jeep. Son in law has the new Bronco Sport. Very noisy compared to Journey, but lots of fancy tec. Seems slow compared to journey, it’s the 1.5 turbo 3 cylinder model. Higher step in height for some people, not great.

Forget what I said about intake gaskets, yours is a four cylinder so doesn’t apply really. My daughter in law has a 2.4 journey 2012. Even when new they are a little under powered. She also had the new cat installed by the recall. Make sure you have the exact correct specified copper core plug in the engine. They have to be changed every 30k-ish miles, but copper is the hottest spark plug and it’s possible (if compression is in spec) that it’s wrong plug causing the misfire issue. With a bent valve they probably put a rebuilt head on the engine. Valve cover gasket is your big oil leak, will need doing soon. Not expensive.

Welcome to forum. Engine was rebuilt how, cylinder head, cams, bottom end ? No warranty left on their work I guess. In take manifold gasket’s should be replaced when plugs are done, they can stay compressed if reused. Can cause misfires. Compression numbers would be useful. Unfortunelty cam or cylinder head issues can often point to random misfire issues. Stuff like injectors and coils don’t go often, would give corresponding codes. If compression is still good, maybe inspect cats anyway.

I like to use oem when I can and price is only 15-20% more. Usually guaranteed fit and slightly better quality. Rockauto sells lots of oem stuff and decent price, Mopar was out of stock so I bought the Dorman item. My egr was already allowing oil residue to leak on side of engine. But no codes were showing up, around 180k kms. Changed it last year and haven’t had any issues. Its a rotary style valve so kinda unusual design, not like the static one in the utube video. Probably more prone to wearing out. . It’s driven by cam shaft. Not hard to change really. Lots of on line sites, can pick up at a dealer and save 30%. https://parts.motorcitychrysler.ca/ https://www.moparpartscanada.ca/

From Ram forums. The only tire-related test available under the BCM in AlfaOBD is Program Tire Size. However, there's a whole Tire Control function that you can select from the main menu, that offers the following procedures: Program Left Front Tire Sensor ID (same for RF) (same for RR) (same for RL) Sensor Rolls Test Activate TPM High GFain Mode Reset VIN Values

CPS very tricky to test, maybe with an oscilloscope. Electronic lab equip that mechanics don’t have. Scanner often will show a CPS code, but not always. $30 part for oem. It,s can becconsidered a wear item after 100k or so, on some cars. Heat and vibration eventually affects part. A loose starter can be tested on the ground with a battery and jumper cables and a screw driver. Power connections arced out with screw driver to engage solenoid and motor.

Starting point is always codes. Starter can be bench tested and tec can also jumper starter relay base connections to by pass all security stuff like transmission range selector, key security and even push button. If lightly tapping starter with rubber mallet makes it work, contacts/springs in solenoid bad, new or rebuilt starter needed. Find a shop that diagnoses and doesn’t just guess at things.

CPS crank sensor can do random no start , sometimes without storing a code.

What’s the milage on the car. Has it had other major repairs. How long are you planning on keeping it.?

Aluminum rims you should always retorque after 30 miles or so. Owners manual even states that. Sometimes there are more than one socket size options with the correct thread size nut. It’s nice to match the factory tire iron wrench if possible. So you don’t have to buy a different wrench. In salt belt areas I think the two piece nuts are even worse, seems to swell the chromed sleeve so socket won’t fit. Or impact gun distorts nut. These nuts often only last 3-4 years. My son has a Journey and a Ford Fusion, both needed replacement. I put one drop of oil on the lug threads, helps prevent seizing a bit.

Need to get a scanner and check for codes or go to auto parts store with free scans. Some codes like abs will disable cruise control function. If it’s intermittent like a faulty wheel sensor then it will randomly disable cruise before resetting itself. Wiper issue may not be caused by new battery, just coincidence. Once again, code is the starting point, parts throwing gets expensive. Wipers in some cars tied to awd activation. Front bearings have abs sensor build in, so rear sensor more likely the issue for cruise.

No market for a high milage Land Rover. Nice sheet metal design and interior not enough. https://www.theautopian.com/auction-sites-bring-a-trailer-and-cars-and-bids-rejected-my-land-rover-and-i-dont-blame-them/

What codes are still showing up. In overdrive , 4th gear is when a bad plug or coil will be more noticeable. Copper spec plugs do run the hottest and wear out the fastest.

Wow that’s weird. Almost going into limp mode but not really. What is year and milage of car. The only common 2.4 engine issue with idle and power problems is the electronic throttle body. Normally a lightning bolt symbol is one of the symptoms and usually codes. Plastic gears inside get worn and start to stick. Hitachi makes the oem replacement. How about cleaning up the grounds on both strut towers. Instead of a low voltage issue, could be a bad ground. This is a problem even dealerships would struggle with. Schematics and an ecm pin out diagram needed for trouble shooting, Mitchell on line login. Some people have had abs controller issues. They are on back order from dealers I think. Not a cheap part to throw at a problem like a map sensor. There was a recall for plug problem from water leaks.

You have really covered all the usual issues, it seems. No codes is the most odd thing. As you know, drive by wire cars controlled by very low voltage signals from throttle and pedal sensor to ecm. May have to wait for it to get a bit worse and trigger a code. Something is running right on the edge. Reseat the plugs again to throttle body, pedal, map, etc. I hate parts throwing at cars, but on cheap wear items like CPS or map sensor I sometimes do.