John/Horace

A better antenna might help radio signal. Those pretty shark fin things imo are a compromise. But routing new cable to back hatch would be hellish. Go old school with a front fender mount set up.

Year of vehicle, engine size, miles/kms, Any recent maintenance work. How old is battery.

Alternator if the internal diodes are bad. Multimeter will show it. Big lead from alt has a built in fusible link and runs to positive terminal of battery. Isolate alternator.

Hey dodgejourneygirl if you don't have blue tooth in vehicle, cve Canadian value edition did not, forget about looking at fuse for HFM module. Worry about clicking in dash if your defrost not working, otherwise ignore it. Outside vent is cycled by car for about two mins to dump moisture, normal. Possible alternator issue, like mentioned... is something to explore. Need 14 ish volts going to battery with lots of options turned on. Have someone test with multi meter etc. Bad grounds that need cleaning up another thing to look at, you are in the rust belt and age of car becomes a problem. Electrical specialist over mechanic if you can afford it.

When battery gets low from a parasitic draw over night, lots of strange symptoms turn up. After disabling glove box light, if battery still going flat. Check passenger side kick panel fuse panel for a hands free module HFM fuse, pull it out temporarily, 10 amp red I think. Most common parasitic draw on Journey is the blue tooth module not shutting off with the ignition. There are companies that rebuild them, or auto wrecker good source for used one.

Auto parts recyclers are often linked on LKQ web site. Good option for interior parts. Color match sometimes an issue. My only concern with cam sensor change is, did dealer properly diagnose problem. Was the 3.5 looked after with regular oil changes. If cam shaft metal lobes worn from dirty oil/high milage, the cam sensor is only reporting what it sees. Could be bigger problem. Hope Im wrong. When was timing belt changed, recently ?

Wow 53k on a 2015, probably a record for the site. Driving that little, I would always run premium high test fuel. The additives help fuel from going crappy and might help the power/roughness you see on occasion. Base regular fuel ages out really fast now. Lots of things affect car reliability beyond just pure milage numbers. In door storage on concrete, versus humidity direct sun. I would always do an oil change every 12 months, short driving is the hardest on engine oil quality. Lots of rubber items age more from uv light, time, temperature, vibration, than just odometer number. I like the idea of staying out ahead of maint on vehicle's, towing is expensive and break downs can be stressful. Glycol ages out after 10 yrs max, dump and fill would even work fine. Coolant gets corrosive when additives age out. CPS crank position sensors are a $25 dealer part that can cause stalling, no starts. On two wheel drive journey only 15 min install, heat and vibration take them out, I normally change by 100k on all cars. Transmission oil change with out flush is always a good investment, even at low miles, years matter too. The two upstream 02 sensors control fuel trim (big milage influence), if super not helping milage new NTK which make OEM unit are good. Payback poor for $s in. Factory platinum spark plugs are 100k milage range item, if getting bad, codes often turn up. Coils can fail before plugs. Should check car for codes even now, see what shows up, regardless of no dash light on. At your driving rate you might be the last person left on this forum...mmm.

Take it back to whomever did the head gasket a few months ago, see what they say. Might be some warranty. Is this the 2.4 or the 3.6 engine. Approx how many miles on vehicle. Not all leaks are external, some leak internally. Glycol coolant into engine oil. What does engine oil on dipstick look like. Post a pic if possible.

The end links can be removed at either end of bar. Sway bar only helps with weight transfer and slightly helps handling. So car can driven with end links removed. If noise gone then either bushings on bar brackets are gone or one or both end links are clunking. Ends links rust in a bit, penetrating oil and vice grips useful.

My guess will be a bad lower ball joint. People have had them fail as early as 50k miles. Labor cost is more than the part, but a cheaper fix than a pair of unneeded struts. I went through two passenger ball joints before ever doing the driver side, kinda odd.

I would suggest an auto parts recycler for a harness. Even a u-pull yard if you are handy. Can take a few pics before you chop out the needed section of harness. There is probably not different harnesses, often they are lots of extra pig tails for the various options.

A coolant pressure test if it doesn’t hold for a least a half hour would tell you how bad pump seal is. I always now change pump at first sign of coolant drip. Few decades ago I drove a pump to failure, winter time and didn’t notice leak. Didn’t damage engine, but bearing went from rotory noise to knocking loudly and full seal failure allowing coolant to majorly piss out. Had to get towed. If pump bearing seizes I have seen pulley snap off pump and brake shaft. Also not good. Paint mark timing chain to each timing gear, then transfer marks to new chain. Bare minimum is changing tensioner if engine is low milage. Rebuilder I know changes tensioner always, chain if milage is high or there is more than normal slack. But a lot of work to go back in a second time.

Was it a used bcm you installed; if new was it aftermarket or factory OEM ?

So you know what is looks like. I don’t work for these guys, but….best on line auto site. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/dodge,2017,journey,2.4l+l4,3434427,wheel,tire+pressure+monitoring+system+(tpms)+control+unit,19354

Weep hole is to send water away from bearing so it doesn't corrode. But bearing not designed for water contact, so there is an internal seal failure. If you pressure test system it won't hold pressure sitting and fluid will come out hole. Weep hole drip means new or rebuilt pump assembly (new is better) needed. Bearing will rapidly get worse and fail soon, this drip gives warning, which is useful.

Generic cheapo obd2 scanners will not pick up airbag, abs CEL codes and various other non essential stuff. The dealers have much more capability for trouble shooting and retrieving ecm codes. But the equipment is only as good as the tec operating it. A good aftermarket bi directional scanner with programming abilities can also do lots more. Not all sensors are plug and pay now, some have to be calibrated to function properly. Get is scanned with a high end unit if you are using obd only. CEL's often have driveability issues attached, a flashing CEL has to be addressed ASAP, vehicle damage eminent...is the message.

Most likely a grounding issue. Clean inspect repair main body and dash grounds. Lots of posts on site with pics etc.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/dodge,2014,journey,3.6l+v6,3300354,body+&+lamp+assembly,radiator+support,812

Welcome to Welcome to the forum. You added to an existing old thread on license plate issues, the right spot, impressive. It's a Mexico only assembled vehicle, and like most of the auto industry is now, mainly metric. Tapping can be tricky depending on how much material is left to work with. A self tapping sheet metal screw works well with plastic and even sheet metal in case there is some not visible. Creates its own new smooth bored hole, then allows screw to make a new thread. If it won't tighten properly, just move up a size and create a larger hole with bigger self tapping screw. Can't always find SS, but exposed to water/salt would be best option. More important than metric/standard really. Factory screw was a 10mm head self tapping plated screw with coarse thread. Like in pic.

Much cheaper fix, so a win. On mini vans I have done that fix a few times. Don’t like the Cardone reman shafts, I normally use the brown box new shafts. Often Mexico stuff. Fewer issues generally.

Low refrigerant charge can cause colder on passenger only. Easily checked with ac gauge. If winter heat is also low on one side as well, then it’s blend door more likely.

Does using neutral help. Which engine and miles?

Most cars ship from factory without gaskets now. But don't use regular rtv silicone, need the more expensive rapid dry stuff, pretty much guarantees no leaks. Tranny shops etc all use it. No over night drying needed.