John/Horace

Need to trouble shoot. Biggest issue with journey are bad grounds, clean up grounds on both strut tires, even grind off paint then very thin film of dielectric grease. Next would be to check out light switch staulk on steering wheel, multi meter for 12+ output voltage and good ground. Could also try removing tipm module, cleaning up contacts so they are shiny, then reseat module. Like dean H is saying...the 2009-10 models had some some issues with module, lots of stuff routed through it.

Above my pay scale. Charger/Ram forum has the technocrats. Bluetooth 5.3 current version way diff than 2012. Streaming platforms like Spotify have lot of hidden functionality. Bluetooth card not super pricy. Cheers.

Skipped track on the 8.4 dash screen triggers it, and the steering wheel radio control as well ? Have you tried to use phone Bluetooth link instead of hard cable to see if it changes anything. Yeah jumping tracks is critical; love Radio Paradise free app with downloaded blocks on phone. No advertising and several music styles to choose from. One of the oldest streaming sites from even AOL days.

Tough situation; most people have struggled with journey interior water leaks. A minor leak would be harder to find. My leak was mainly when vehicle was parked on a slope. In most leaks reported it was the holes in the chanel that runs underneath the front car doors. There is yellow foam insulation peeking out from the 5-6 visible holes. But where the water goes in isn't necessarily where it comes out (usually chanel holes). Difficult to trouble shoot.

Any codes stored ? 2009-10 were the years with tipm issues. Can do a lot of weird things, random horn honking, lights staying on issues etc. People have made up their own bypass harness to trouble shoot if it is the actual problem. Can reseat module, clean up connection contacts with rubbing alcohol or electronic cleaner. Bad solder joint often is the real cause, reman units are available. Free advice worth everything you pay for it. 🙂

Sounds like the awd is engaging itself right when wheels are engaged. It's a really simple birg warner system that cannot be turned on independently. I believe if slippage is detected an electric solenoid on rear diff actuates the awd coupling to transfer power; it is only functional up to 55 mph. Turning off traction control before you come out of park might prevent the awd falsely engaging. Could be an abs sensor triggering it. So code reading needed. Only way to temporarily disable awd is to unplug the power plug on the side of rear diff;but you will have a permanent dash light afterwards. And no functioning awd.

Welcome to the site. Transaxle warning light ; is that traction control symbol or check engine light on dash. Flashing ?

Yeah I agree new flex hose worth exploring, can collapse internally, not noticeable. Generally new over reman is a better option; but not always. It was a kimpex spring used on snowmobiles, don't have a part number. About 1/3 larger dia, same length. Harbour Freight/Princess Auto have assorted springs usually. But hose first.

This guy hyperdrive36 used a borscope and analyzed the hell out of a driver floor water leak. Best posting on this site about water leaks. Talked about not wanting to have whole car taken apart with fender off to fix it. Even found a way on his own to stop leak, amazing. He is probably not 73 yrs old; show this post to body shop guy, should help huge with trouble shooting imo.

And a 50' extension cord with hair dryer likely to trip breaker anyway. Leave a window cracked open in parking garage if possible, vent some of moisture. Maybe body shop can dry it out after leak fixed. Mold smell very hard to get rid of, I wasn't quick enough to find leak. Took over a month to get rid of smell, summer June temp was around 80 F, so windows open in my garage and bounce dryer sheets. My leak much worse than yours, three trys to fix leak.

I lifted my carpet up a bit after removing some of the hold down trim. Used a small piece of 2x4 to prop up off the floor well. Hair dryers need 120 volt house current because they are 1500 watts running. My leak was on passenger side, took several tries to avoid an inch in floor well after rain storms. There is a metal track in the lower firewall area that the windshield cowling water is diverted to. There are at least 3-4 drain holes in the sheet metal on each side of front passenger compartment. Rust flakes road dust etc clog the holes. A long approx 1\4" drill bit can be used to clear the holes out again. Running a hose in the top of the windshield should trigger water flow from most of the underside drain holes. Can clean out the holes that aren't flowing properly. Some people have very carefully drilled new extra holes, body shop guys would have this ability. Hopefully not necessary.

I have gone through this issue with two different Journeys. Even replaced the whole passenger side parking brake cable assembly on one car, still dragging a bit afterwards. Located a larger stronger return spring, that finally fixed the problem. I suspect it's the brake caliper parking brake mechanism internally. It was a rebuild caliper; all I could get at the time. Three yrs later spring still doing the job. Second vehicle it happened on I was able to get a brand new caliper assembly. Fixed, no sticking lever not returning fully. Dealer calipers are good but super pricey; new Raybestos unit did the trick, Parts Source.

Batteries don't last as long on cars, so many power options. Some go after 3 years even. Short trip driving in extreme temperatures also not good; cars need 15 mins plus to recharge the battery to normal state again. Transmissions have electronic solenoids, so a low battery can create weird shifting. Battery needs a load test, make sure it's holding charge, see if parasitic load draw. Alternator needs a charging test; needs to be strong enough to keep battery fully charged.

The crack is not the leak, not structural issue either. Polyurethane caulking if it makes you feel better is the best option. A body shop for fixing leaks can sometimes be better than a regular mechanic, imo. There was a few people with a driver's side leak. It turned out to be hard to trace the source. I think it was entering a missed welding joint under the hood, close to the hood hinge area. Try to dry out the carpet as soon as possible. Old towels and a hair dryer etc; need to avoid mold.

How many miles...which engine in behicle. Journey very finicky for weak battery; charging car fixing issues is not good. Always start with reading codes first. No start could be as simple as a cps sensor. Really a wear item at 100k plus on most cars; only a $30 ish dollar item. Doesn't always store a code though. Cleaning up all the grounds on the car especially struts towers can also help things, my 2cents.

Yeah very cool go pro Video. If you look right at base of sway bar link where you hold it with a wrench when tightening, it is clearly stillmoving with bumps. It should not move...at all. You could add a lock washer to stop that movement. End link is a ball and socket design; socket gets sloppy and that is usually where real rattle starts. Sway bar transfers weight to opposite wheel when cornering; to help handling. It is safe to unbolt both ends and drive car for 5mins. It is best way to help isolate noises. Lower ball joints and subframe mounts are common issues on Journey. Lots of salt being used in the nord this year, nasty winter.

My ram has a block heater, electric rack so no whinning hydraulic pump on start ups. Journey 3.6 pumps are burried and always noisy, it seems. Daughter in law's 2.4 is quiet and hi milage, but easy access, figures. I would suck out the atr+4 first, make sure reservoir bottom screen is clear, brake cleaner spray works well. My fluid has been changed multiple times. Pump slightly loud, but tolerable still. Try a flush or two.

Viscous coupling unit is a common maint issue. Need to watch for leaks, keep it topped up or fix leak. Did you add a block heater to the engine, or is in a garage over night, curious. Bad winter this year. Our 2014 is 280kms or 155k miles, alternator and oil cooler filter housing were only earlier than expected fixes.

Unfortunately it doesn't mean he can just use an 8 bolt unit. The holes won't be there. You would think diesel engine would have a stronger design. Unless the 6 bolts are larger diameter and of a higher grade. Transmission shops might know.

All the pics of flex plate for 62te transmission show 8 mounting bolts. Yours is showing only 6 bolts. Something to look into. Part on back order on a lot sites.

AI Overview Yes, traditional hydraulic power steering pumps do have an internal pressure relief valve , typically located within the pump body's outlet portion. This spring-loaded valve prevents excessive pressure—which could burst hoses or damage components—by allowing fluid to recirculate within the pump when steering hits full lock. Older hoses get stiffer over time; especially cheap quality ones. Even bad motor mounts can damage hoses. Crazy cold winter this year.

Unfortunately not an option. You would have to switch to a standard transmission to use a fly wheel. Not a plug and play thing. The flex plate shouldn't be seeing this torque, like 5rebel9 is saying. Great news no DCT tranny. Probably another flex plate with a new torque converter needed. Get other opinions.

Yeah the journey interior trim is above ave imo. Ours was used 4 yrs old when we got it, sales rep car so well looked after. Lots of scuffs but no tears yet, about 170k miles of use now, I'm over 200 pounds. The southern heat is harder on interiors than the northern cold; in my experience. UV light just bakes everything faster. But salt belt bodies are always a bigger problem. Our passenger seat is the flip up gun storage option. It would be easy to change if it ever got really bad. My lithium jumper battery is kept there, handy. The leather seats have had a few wipe downs of conditioner during our ownership. Was in a neighbors 2019 Subaru Legacy Outback the other day, drivers seat has several large holes and coming apart. Looked awful. Like your saying, some of the newer cars seats are being made cheaper. And fixing a seat is not easy to do.

Finally stopped snowing, pic of raised rear deck patio table. Some areas near by got 1.5' feet of snow. Light fluffy stuff, easy to snow blow. Like you said...the cold is worse than the snow this year. A US gallon of regular gas here lately is about $3.20 ish cdn. Much lower than last year, tax rules change helped. Diesel still slightly more than gas.

Wiki says the diesel with automatic is the Getrag mps6 or 6dct450 automatic. Not a conventional torque converter but a dual clutch transmission. Ford and Volvo often use this unit, with dual wet multi plate clutches. Known for much quicker uninterrupted shifts, improving fuel economy. If not maintained dirty fluid can cause harsh shifts and shuddering. These are direct quotes from Google. The flex plates shown are weaker than a std transmission fly wheel, could be getting twisted/cracked without a huge bang occurring. Diesel torque is much bigger than petrol/gas. DCT transmissions in general don't have a good reputation for reliability, Ford, Kia, VW have all had multiple recalls and problems. Efficiency sometimes has a price.