Summer Solstice

Trapped air?  Did you bleed the system properly?  It’s a PIA process....

Trying to hit the record button at the same time as the song started.....

Just an update!!!               
 
Put my snow tires on,, and cleaned the front brakes,switched pads (dinner went outside,  and outers went inside)  cleaned the sliders,,    and so far so good. Went for a 1 HR drive,, and didn't hear anything.   Fingers crossed that, that is it,,,     I'll post again if noise comes back,,,   thanks everyone!!!! 

LOL didnt really want to ask if he installed it and reversed the polarity but was wanting to say that, that is about all i can think that would have caused any damage to the journey...also i have seen a car jump start okay with a battery temperature sensor that is bad but then as soon as they put it in gear it would stop

Clearly the above account has been hacked. This is a Dodge forum and the poster does not have a complaint?
 
Thanks for the positive feedback on a dealer. There are too few of those.

Replaced the PCV valve.  Whoa.  Another lesson learned.  I should have replaced that long ago.
Definitely the cam(?) seal on the valve was long gone and leaking oil thru the valve into the intake.
When I pulled the tube between the intake and PCV off, the tube was dripping with engine oil.
Because of the oil passing into the intake, for grins, I pulled the MAP sensor to check for oil and swirled in a corner of a piece of paper towel to try and clean it out.  I cant say the inside of the MAP was oily, but I can't say it was dry either.
I'll be driving tomorrow to see if any of this changed anything.   
 
See pic below.  Notice the difference in the PCV seal diameter difference.
 
 
 
 

As you have said, start with the battery. The age, and the symptoms, are consistent. Once the battery drops just enough, everything works except starting. That is normal for these vehicles. 
You air distribution problems may be blend door related.

The trans fluid and filter have been changed.  No surprises.  The process was just as most Youtube videos lay out.  The old fluid was brown but not gritty.  As expected, there was sludge buildup by the magnet, but no metal pieces.  Definitely it was time to change the trans fluid, clean the pan, and replace the filter.
Word of advice:  If you have 120,000 miles on your DJ, plan to keep the vehicle, and haven’t had the trans filter and oil changed, don’t put it off.  Its time.
 
For those Average Joes (me) doing it on your driveway, definitely put down lots of cardboard to protect the cement from fluid drips.  My superpower is that I only have to look at oil and it drips onto my driveway.  Even a slight breeze can cause the trans fluid to spray while its draining into a pan.  I used aluminum foil draped between the jack stands to block any breezes.  An oil extractor was used to get out as much of the trans fluid out first, before dropping the pan, to try an minimize how much fluid will have to drain under the car.  The worst part, and most time-consuming part of the job was getting all the old sealant off the pan.  I had to resort to using WD40 and a razorblade.  (I hate using a razorblade for fear of gouging.)  The trans side had no old sealant residue.  I wussed out and did not change the filter grommet.  It looked to difficult for me to remove without gouging trans metal. 
 
I am fluid level challenged.  I definitely find it difficult to read trans fluid levels.  I tried several times during the week prior and it always read overfilled when compared to charts.  I was using an aftermarket stick with millimeter markings, and made attempts when hot and cold.  I even remeasured the markings on the stick to make sure they were correct, and when the pan and filter were off, I double checked to made sure the stick would come to rest at its perch inside the trans.  Bottom line, I measured the amount of fluid removed and replaced with the exact same amount.  Today I will drive the vehicle to operating temperatures and try again.
 
 
 
 
 

Well, you asked for an update and here it is. After replacing the unit, and loading the maps (2020.30), I left it on CTP13. The other day, decided to see if Garmin Express could update the maps...spoiler alert, it won’t. However, during my check, the Uconnect website suggested I update to CTP17 from their website. BAD IDEA.
 
The update worked...but it erased all the maps. I tried and tried to update them using 2021.20 (from my backup Garmin unit), to no avail. Finally today, copied 2021.20 to a brand new USB stick, but didn’t use the SID folder (stuck it in the Disabled) folder. Ran the procedure while
driving my daughter to her figure skate practice, and we’re back in business, with the 2021.20 version of North American maps.
 
Dodge wanted me to take the unit to a dealer for a checkup, in order for them to decide what to do. Since it’s not in warranty, that’s not gonna happen. I’m back to having a functional unit, and the method in post #1 WORKS!

you are wanting to throw good money at it without knowing whats wrong,. have a good mechanic check it out or go to the dealership for a diagnostic,,,are you sure the battery is good ,,,have it load checked as well

Back to the dealer it goes. No point in speculations until you know how the dealer will stand behind this. They are as much on trial here as the vehicle. Being able to trust the dealer inproves your chances of enjoying the vehicle considerably. 

Confirmed bad battery. Apparently, so bad that the tester machine at Canadian Tire had issues. It was under warranty and the swapped it out at no cost. 
Replaced battery and is immediately improved from lifeless to looking like it's all good. I haven't been able to take it for a drive yet but I'll keep an eye on it and will update the post if another issue is found that should be added. 

Back to the dealer it goes. No point in speculations until you know how the dealer will stand behind this. They are as much on trial here as the vehicle. Being able to trust the dealer inproves your chances of enjoying the vehicle considerably. 

You stated you installed a battery “that looked new”. Was it new or not? Outer looks mean nothing. Batteries can go bad in 3 weeks.  You need to have the battery tested.  You can have it on a charger from now till doomsday and if you have a shorted cell it will never hold a charge or start the car. Newer cars are very voltage sensitive.
Did you check the battery cables to make sure they are tight and clean?  Have you tried jump starting the car?  If you jump it and it starts you can have the battery properly tested, otherwise you may need to remove it and take it to be tested.  AutoZone, O’Rielys, NAPA all have new electronic battery testers with print outs of battery test results.
I really think you need to look into the battery first. If that checks good then you can move to the under hood fuse box and relays...

9 DAYS?....YES get it back to the dealer with giving the same info you posted here. 
Hard to say anything constructive as the only real info you gave here is the YEAR of the vehicle and it's a Diesel model being in the EU market. A lot of members here on the forum are from the NA market with diesels being few in number if they were even marketed here.
 Good Luck to you and report back any progress for the benefit of ALL the members here!   

Super easy to check!
Not my video.
 

Last posting was 1 year ago and not by the OP.  One offering I can suggest as a newer member here is to check and make sure the gearshift is fully in park. Next step would be to get at the battery and make sure the cables to it are not loose. I've seen a number of times that "new" batteries posts are smaller in size than OE and don't let the terminal ends fully clamp on them. All it take is some kind of "jarring" and they will break connection, killing all power to the vehicle.

So, NO CEL after the plugs but "idling rough"? If a bad coil you should still be getting a flashing or steady CEL when driving.  I'd more believe a sticky fuel injector at those conditions. Try a can of SeaFoam fuel system cleaner in the gas tank, run it thru and see how it may change for the better as the cleaner works thru. NOTE...this is not an instant fix result. BUT if you are getting CEL again, get the codes read and posted here, many possibilities and without codes responses are GUESSING.

Painted the front lower fascia to match the body color, including the fog light bezels. Added carbon fiber auto-wrap as grill insert. Painted the grill satin black and bottom center fascia applique in satin black and flat black. Will likely change the bottom center fascia applique to all satin black along with the plastic insert strip above the chrome 

A few dollars now for a shop diagnostic to firmly identify the problem can save you a considerable amount of time and money later. You can still fix it yourself, if you are so inclined, but you will likely spend more in trail and error.  Pay for the answer if not cure.  Sometimes it's much cheaper in the long run. 

A few dollars now for a shop diagnostic to firmly identify the problem can save you a considerable amount of time and money later. You can still fix it yourself, if you are so inclined, but you will likely spend more in trail and error.  Pay for the answer if not cure.  Sometimes it's much cheaper in the long run. 

A few dollars now for a shop diagnostic to firmly identify the problem can save you a considerable amount of time and money later. You can still fix it yourself, if you are so inclined, but you will likely spend more in trail and error.  Pay for the answer if not cure.  Sometimes it's much cheaper in the long run. 

LOL so much info you have given,  try telling which side of the eng, what is near it shouldn't be to hard as they only reach so far the other connectors should be close by..Give as much info you can for a better answer to your question,good luck

have done almost a hundred brake jobs for my daughters mail van and jeeps and have never used a torque wrench on thoes bolts and never had a problem just get them tight and then a bit more, if one came out then he never even got it tight to begin with probably had it finger tight
 

Scan for codes to figure out which abs wheel sensor is bad. Then replace sensor and reset with scanner.